Need power source for Cheap Sharp RP 7900 turntable

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sanlanman

I picked up a cheap Sharp RP-7900 tuntable to clean records on. It is apparently powered of another device, because it has a very small 24 guage pair of power wires and an odd clip for plugging into someother, maybe all in one, Sharp stereo system. Does anybody know roughly what volts and amps it takes. I was hoping to find a cheap wall wart transformer at the thrift store to power it. Speed accuracy is not important. I just want powered rotation.

Wayner

Re: Need power source for Cheap Sharp RP 7900 turntable
« Reply #1 on: 6 Aug 2008, 11:02 pm »
You may have to go inside the unit and try and find a voltage rating and milliamp rating on the motor. Sounds like it could be a DC motor. Some are 24 volt.

Wayner

sanlanman

Re: Need power source for Cheap Sharp RP 7900 turntable
« Reply #2 on: 7 Aug 2008, 05:44 pm »
Wayner, I have already gone into the unit and looked. No info other than a number that I assume is a part number is on the little can motor. I actully held two D cell batteries together and hooked the leads to them, and the motor ran for about 2 seconds and stopped. Like you, I think it is a DC motor. I just need to be close or on with the volts and milliamps.

Wayner

Re: Need power source for Cheap Sharp RP 7900 turntable
« Reply #3 on: 7 Aug 2008, 06:10 pm »
If 3 volts got it to run, then I'm bettin' it may be a 12 volt motor. 8 D cells in series will get you 12 volts and there is always your car battery. Another thought is to run down to your local Radioshack and get a 12 volt DC wall wart with at least 800 miliamp rating (the bigger milliamp rating, the better). This should get the motor running. Does the table have a control on it to adjust speed? If so, use a strobe plate to set your speed. Remember, a DC motor will run backwards when wired incorrectly.

If we use Ohms law: I=P/E and make an assumption that the motor draws 2 watts then I=2/12 or I=.1666. So we can be thinking this thing will draw about .16 amps. The problem is start up current (which can be 10 times the run current) and the motor may run at more than 2 watts' especially under load. This is a place to start anyway.

I'm really thinking this is the correct voltage. Lots of companies used Class II wall warts to run their electronics because it took UL out of the picture. All they needed was a UL approved wart and they were done as 12 volt products do not come into UL's radar.

Wayner