[zybar]

I think this has been mentioned before (either here or on Audiogon), but bypassing the stock binding posts and tweeter hook-up wire definitely improves the sound of the CS2's.  The high's have a more natural and open sound to them.  There is more sparkle and less harshness as well.

I bypassed the stock setup by disconnecting the tweeter wires and building my own little pigtails with slide on connectors (Radio Shack specials) on one end and bare wire (Radio Shack 14 gauge) on the other end.  The bare wire and my speaker cables (Gregg Straley) connect to a pair of Vampire banana adapters.  It ain't pretty, but here are a few pics:

 





George

[mca]

Won't that last bit of Radio Shack wire diminish the sound just as the tweeter hookup wire did? I would think finding a way to connect Greg's wire directly to the tweeter would be the best solution.

This is interesting though as I need to order another set of speaker cables from Greg to use with my new CS2's. Sounds like I should add a couple of feet to them. Maybe I can even have him build me a pair with the slide on connectors.

[zybar]

Won't that last bit of Radio Shack wire diminish the sound just as the tweeter hookup wire did? I would think finding a way to connect Greg's wire directly to the tweeter would be the best solution.

This is interesting though as I need to order another set of speaker cables from Greg to use with my new CS2's. Sounds like I should add a couple of feet to them. Maybe I can even have him build me a pair with the slide on connectors.

The RS wire is what I had to use.  As I said above, it is better than the stock wire/binding posts.

If you can have Greg put the slide on connectors on one end of his cables that would be ideal.

George

[TomS]

I direct wired an old pair of Monster M1 I had laying around, but haven't brought myself to do my own surgery to my Reality Cables.  I'm very convinced of the improvement though, so maybe it's time.  Let us know what Gregg says, but the little slip-on connectors are really cheezy.  Not sure they'd even be strong enough to hold up to the stiff wire.  Might be better off just soldering short pigtails directly from driver terminals to free hanging binding posts and just using the stock spades on those.

[GregC]

I did the tweak a long time ago to hook my speaker wire directly to the tweeters.  Gold plated 1/4 inch connectors are available, and I have mine connected directly to my speaker wire with WBT silver solder.  I figured the speakers are perfectly time aligned based on the wire being connected to the binding posts, so I made my speaker wire for the tweeters 3 ft longer to preserve the wire length dimensions.  This is a very effective tweak.

[JerryM]

Umm, just thinking in print here...
Maybe, possibly, the manufacturer could maybe, just possibly, do something stock that may be better than a RS 14 ga. tweak? Just even MAYBE? As a custom order that you could post about? Just MAYBE?
Call me overly demanding, but geez. 
Have fun,
Jerry

[Jerrym303]

I made some little clamps from 1/2"x1/8" brass stock and brass screws to hold the spade directly against the the paddle on the speaker.  I'll try to post pictures tomorrow (assuming I figure out how).

[zybar]

Umm, just thinking in print here...
Maybe, possibly, the manufacturer could maybe, just possibly, do something stock that may be better than a RS 14 ga. tweak? Just even MAYBE? As a custom order that you could post about? Just MAYBE?
Call me overly demanding, but geez. 
Have fun,
Jerry

Jerry,

I would indeed like to see Emerald Physics make a change on the wire front.  That being said, the speakers still sound very good with the stock wire.

Also, this isn't anything unique with Emerald Physics...I just tried another very cheap tweak with a different pair of speakers I own (replaced the stock screws that hold the driver in place with brass screws) and I think the vendor is now considering making that a permanent change for when he builds his products.  Sometimes, it just takes a nudge from the consumer side to have a vendor make a change.

George

[doak]

My "custom made" WLM bi-wire for CS2.





The push-on connectors are from HD - even color coded!
I treated them with ProGold and Mapleshade Silver stuff.
Works for me.   

[cloudbaseracer]

My "custom made" WLM bi-wire for CS2.





The push-on connectors are from HD - even color coded!
I treated them with ProGold and Mapleshade Silver stuff.
Works for me.   


I just received my CS2's and have also connected them to the WLM speaker wires.  I have, due to the ultra cheap cost of the wire, ran an independent run to each lead.  In other words, I have twisted black , white and green wires all together and so I have 4 "cables" going to each speaker.  Do you guys think this will make a difference?  Also, Doak, it looks like you have chosen to put the green with the black AND use this as the negative.  The WLM shows combining the White/Green and using that as the positive with the black single as negative.

Will any of this matter?

James

[doak]

About all I can say is "try different variations and listen".

I like the way mine work as configured.