Link to Sensible Sound Review of KAB Special Edition Technics SL-1200MK2SE

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Whitese

When you guys stuff all that stuff under the platter, I guess it doesnt matter if the mass of the resultant platter is 100% evenly distributed?   I was thinking about the wobblies....I wouldnt mind trying that with my Technics Sp-25 and SP-10 gen 1.

TheChairGuy

Dynamat is good...but I recommend the spray on version as many / most direct drive platters don't have a lot of clearance underneath.  You can spray a lot thinner layer than you can lay in with the sheets.  If you still have room, you can add a thin layer of Plast-i-Clay on top.

I estimate I used 2 oz of Dupli-Color and about 4 oz of Plast-i-Clay, fairly evenly distributed by eye.  With only 6 oz added, fairly carefully at that, I don't think I knocked my 5 lb platter out of whack...nor added so much mass that it will cause strain on my 1.4 lb / ft. torque motor.  It's certainly a lot less load than a DJ scratchin' on a Technics deck at some Bar Mitzvah, Wedding or After Hours Club  :wink:

Belt drives benefit from it, too....tho not as much as it's reasonably well isolated to begin with thru the belt, string, etc.  They improve as much from the flywheel effect as the isolation, I'd think  :scratch:  Have done it to two belt drives...but the benefits are smaller than when applied to my direct drivers.

Dynamat makes a spray on (pricier than most at $20-odd a can).  Parts Express has long had a similar spray called Quiet Kote:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=268-250

I've used this one, too, and can vouch for it's effectiveness.  But, the Dupli-Color UC103 is half that price, does the same thing....and dries in an hour (versus 24 hours or so).  Faster and cheaper is all I need for reasons  :thumb:

Don't forget an $100.00 Isoplatmat or Audioquest Sorbogel mat between the still-ring-prone platter and your record mat / interface.  I like the Herbie's....but opinions will greatly differ on that subject.  Total cost $150-200 and you'll have made a great improvement to your Technics....or any direct driver.

Grant, welcome back from your self-imposed exile.  Your input is invaluable here - please don't leave again  :wave:

John
 

TONEPUB


Jeff, where can we see listed the contents of your best system?     

Back on page three is where I listed my reference system...

We have procured another stock SL1200 and are going to attempt to have all of the KAB mods
(and perhaps a few others) done over the next six months.

I noticed by the time you get all done with them, you are looking at about $1600+ for the table.

Granted thats a lot of dough for an SL1200 (I wonder if you'd be better off getting an SP10 at that
point... but it is not a bad way to work up to a decent record playing machine.  We did a similar
series of upgrades to a Rega P25 last year with very favorable results.  The P25 (that I bought used
for 600) with a thousand dollars worth of upgrades sounded way better than what we started with
and though not the equal of say, a P9, was totally on par with a new P5 that is in the 2500 range.

The biggest reason for this is that my labor was free.  That's a cost a mfr has to add to things,
so by tweeking an SL1200, I could see the end result being competitive with a more expensive
table.  How much more, we'll be sure to investigate.

I also like the idea of modding something like that on a proven path because just saying "why not
just go buy a 2000 dollar table" is missing the point.  No offense, but not everyone can just go shell
out 2k for a table and not everyone can get it past their wife/girlfriend/significant other.

But they can get an innocent looking SL1200 or used P25 in the door for 5-600.

I'm all for getting better sound and if modding out something a little less expensive will do it,
I'm cool with that.

So we will keep investigating and I even have a line on an SP10 mk 2.  I have a freind that has
re done one on a custom pliinth with the SME 312 arm, so we'll see how that shakes out.

Way more than one way to skin the cat!


jrtrent

  • Jr. Member
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The P25 (that I bought used for 600) with a thousand dollars worth of upgrades sounded way better than what we started with and though not the equal of say, a P9, was totally on par with a new P5 that is in the 2500 range.

Just curious if you meant that your upgraded P25 was on par with the P7, as I think the P5 sells for about $1300.

Marco1408

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 83
Hi Jeff,

Quote
We did a similar series of upgrades to a Rega P25 last year with very favorable results.  The P25 (that I bought used or 600) with a thousand dollars worth of upgrades sounded way better than what we started with
and though not the equal of say, a P9, was totally on par with a new P5 that is in the 2500 range.

That's interesting stuff. I've played around with quite a few different Regas over the years. My last one was a P5 with the external PSU, which I sold to buy my KAB-modified SL-1210 MK5G. In the UK the P5/PSU combination retails for £845 (about $1700). The modifications I had done were mainly to the RB700 arm, which I had the paint stripped off of (the paint simply deadens the arm tube and is there for cosmetic reasons only) and then professionally polished by Audio Origami (a highly respected UK tonearm specialist) to a fantastic finish. It looked just like the RB1000 on the P9. I also replaced the counterweight with a solid brass one, again supplied by Audio Origami, to the same diameter as the original, but heavier. This is an excellent tweak for Rega owners using a moving coil cartridge (particularly Denon DL-103s) instead of Rega's own MM cartridges, because due to the nature of its construction the AO counterweight releases the full potential of MCs. I also had the arm rewired with Cardas cable, and replaced the felt mat with a Funk Firm Achromat. All in all I guess the table including modifications cost me £1150 (about $2300).

It looked and sounded great. After the mods, it outperformed a stock P7, but was not quite up to the P9, due mainly to the P9's superior platter and PSU. Did it sound as good as my KAB-modified SL-1210? Not a chance in hell!!! Well if it did I guess I wouldn't have sold it :green:

Seriously though, the KAB-modified SL-1210 eats it up and spits it out for breakfast, without any exaggeration. The modified P5 was very musical sounding, had great timing, and a nice tonal palette - it was a pretty good all-rounder, but the KAB-modified SL1210 (see my thread elsewhere for list of modifications) does all this too and has a deeper, tighter, more accurate bass with oodles more slam, and generally a much more balanced and neutral sound. The Rega's bass was always a touch loose and 'wooly' sounding in comparison, but that's a common trait amongst almost all belt-drive tables I've heard, including the much vaunted Linn LP12 (which I've owned and which my KAB-modified SL-1210 also outperforms).

The key to why the SL-1210 is so good, in my opinion, once its weaknesses have been sorted out by the KAB mods and some judicious platter isolation, is its D/D motor unit. Quite simply, if well implemented, a direct-drive mechanism is far superior to belt-drive, and this is down to speed accuracy. It is the reason why the SL-1210's bass is so good and why it makes most belt-drives (save the really esoteric stuff) sound limp and indistinct. As a point of note, in this month's Hi-Fi World magazine in the UK, the editor David Price compared his modified SL-1200 to an SME 10A (not KAB mods; simply with a modded RB250, an Isoplatmat, and Isonoe feet) and it whipped the SMEs ass at over £3000 ($6000)!! :o

Anyway, I thought you might find this interesting given your assertions earlier in the thread as to the perceived status of the SL-1210 in the grand scheme of things. Do let me know how you get on with your own modified T/T, as I would be very interested to read your findings :)

Marco.
« Last Edit: 2 Aug 2007, 01:39 pm by Marco1408 »

Marco1408

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 83
Hi Jeff,

I would appreciate your comments... 8)

Marco.