Would like to see finished crossover

RawB8figure · « **on:** 23 Jan 2007, 06:45 am »

Wouldn't mind looking at some pics of finished crossovers.

Thanks guys

RAW · « **Reply #1 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 07:19 am »

For ?

pjchappy · « **Reply #2 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 07:23 am »

I think this guy just finished one:

p

RAW · « **Reply #3 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 07:25 am »

RawB8figure · « **Reply #4 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 05:06 pm »

well I heard that some people are using peg board. I was just wondering what it looks like and wondering if anyone one made one out of MDF or other materials. When I do mine I don't really want to us peg board, I would probably use MDF and drill the necessary holes for the components

Daygloworange · « **Reply #5 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 05:32 pm »

I'll have some pics posted shortly of the RAW HT 8 crossovers. They will be mounted on MDF.

Cheers

RAW · « **Reply #6 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 05:51 pm »

We use MDF and mount all the components with a contruction adhesive ,soldered then last over all connections with hot glue to seal out any air from oxidization.

On larger inductor values we also drill holes and strap all the inductors to the boards with poly straps plus the adhesive.

RawB8figure · « **Reply #7 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 07:07 pm »

Ok I was wondering about that. And what solder do you recommend and is it included in the kit. Also is there a way to have binding posts coming out of the wood instead of using the plastic one with the binding posts on the plastic.

Thanks

RAW · « **Reply #8 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 07:42 pm »

Yes the silver solder is included in the kits.
As for the posts you are talking about we do not use posts.We wire direct from the connection to the driver or to the input from the terminal post on the cabinet.We do not use terminals on the crossover boards.

Here is a sample of the RA8 crossover layout.
Notice the wires come direct from the connection then wired to the driver no terminals to connect to.

You are always better to wire direct to the connection, as close to point to point connection the better.
In the kits you get a photo layout labling the layout.
Basicly we take a photo then with editor remove all the colour only the outling of the layout parts is left and we lable them.

Makes for assembly for anyone very easy to follow.
Lay out the parts the same way and you will be just fine.

RawB8figure · « **Reply #9 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 11:19 pm »

sorry, I mean the connection from the speaker to the amp on the back of the speaker. You supple the round plastic insert with banana plug inputs. I was wondering if there is a banana plug that will go through the wood.

RawB8figure · « **Reply #10 on:** 23 Jan 2007, 11:22 pm »

also is it ok to mount all on 1 board or do you need three seperate boards.

Bill Baker · « **Reply #11 on:** 24 Jan 2007, 12:51 am »

Hey RAWB8,
My recommendations would be using Hot Glue to adhere all the crossover parts to 1/4" to 1/2" MDF.
Hot glue from a hot gun will provide a permanent bond and will not harm the coating on inductors or capacitors.

RAW · « **Reply #12 on:** 24 Jan 2007, 01:13 am »

Quote from: RawB8figure on 23 Jan 2007, 11:19 pm

sorry, I mean the connection from the speaker to the amp on the back of the speaker. You supple the round plastic insert with banana plug inputs. I was wondering if there is a banana plug that will go through the wood.

We use a plastic terminal cup whic we install our custom binding posts into.
Or you can just ask for binding post instead of the terminal cup when you order your kit.

RAW · « **Reply #13 on:** 24 Jan 2007, 01:14 am »

Quote from: RawB8figure on 23 Jan 2007, 11:22 pm

also is it ok to mount all on 1 board or do you need three seperate boards.

For all our speakers we perfer to mount the crossovers seperate.
So 2 ways have 2 board one for the tweeter network and then one for the woofer network.

And 3 ways use 3 boards.

RAW · « **Reply #14 on:** 24 Jan 2007, 01:16 am »

Quote from: Response Audio on 24 Jan 2007, 12:51 am

Hey RAWB8,
My recommendations would be using Hot Glue to adhere all the crossover parts to 1/4" to 1/2" MDF.
Hot glue from a hot gun will provide a permanent bond and will not harm the coating on inductors or capacitors.

I agree wth Bill.
Thisis why we perfer Hot glue as well this stops harmonic vibration from crossover parts inside the cabinet as well.

Bill Baker · « **Reply #15 on:** 24 Jan 2007, 02:00 am »

Quote

For all our speakers we perfer to mount the crossovers separate.
So 2 ways have 2 board one for the tweeter network and then one for the woofer network.
And 3 ways use 3 boards.

This is usually the best way to prevent interference between coils but if proper layout procedures or "guidelines" are used, a single board can provide just as good results. This would also allow for the removal of lengthy jumpers. Good results can be obtained either way as long as it's done right.

RAW · « **Reply #16 on:** 24 Jan 2007, 03:03 am »

Quote from: Response Audio on 24 Jan 2007, 02:00 am

Quote
For all our speakers we perfer to mount the crossovers separate.
So 2 ways have 2 board one for the tweeter network and then one for the woofer network.
And 3 ways use 3 boards.

This is usually the best way to prevent interference between coils but if proper layout procedures or "guidelines" are used, a single board can provide just as good results. This would also allow for the removal of lengthy jumpers. Good results can be obtained either way as long as it's done right.

As Bill said the best to prevent cross talk (interferences) between the inductors, with large inductors they have a larger magnetic field to which you want to keep other inductors away from.
As I said we perfer the 2-3 boards but asBill noted if done correctly you can place all the parts on a single board.

Some reading for you on cross talk.
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/TechPapers/Crosstalk.pdf

IronForge · « **Reply #17 on:** 29 Jun 2007, 04:01 am »

Quote from: RAW on 23 Jan 2007, 07:42 pm

Yes the silver solder is included in the kits.
As for the posts you are talking about we do not use posts.We wire direct from the connection to the driver or to the input from the terminal post on the cabinet.We do not use terminals on the crossover boards.

Here is a sample of the RA8 crossover layout.
Notice the wires come direct from the connection then wired to the driver no terminals to connect to.

You are always better to wire direct to the connection, as close to point to point connection the better.
In the kits you get a photo layout labling the layout.
Basicly we take a photo then with editor remove all the colour only the outling of the layout parts is left and we lable them.

Makes for assembly for anyone very easy to follow.
Lay out the parts the same way and you will be just fine.

Al,

I was browsing through the forum and am interested in this picture, but it is a broken link. Do you still have the finished crossover example?

RAW · « **Reply #18 on:** 29 Jun 2007, 04:50 am »

Which one you looking for?

The OB2X or the RAV1X?

IronForge · « **Reply #19 on:** 29 Jun 2007, 02:25 pm »

Quote from: RAW on 29 Jun 2007, 04:50 am

Which one you looking for?

The OB2X or the RAV1X?

OB2X is fine. You can e-mail me or post it here. Once I get the first set done the rest should be easy.