[chadh]

As I'm cheap and have aspirations to better sounds than I probably deserve, I've decided to build an IKEA-Lyte equipment rack following the instructions of mastermind Ken Lyon ( http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1001889380&openflup&11&4#11 ).  I'm hoping that others have tried this, and might be able to answer three questions.

1.  The instructions call for a number of side tables one greater than the number of components to be housed.  The implication seems to be that no component sits on the bottom shelf.  Why?  If I put something on the bottom shelf, will I mess everything up?

2.  The legs of the Lack side tables are apparently no longer solid, but are largely hollow.  So when I cut the legs down, I'm unlikely to be able to screw spikes into the bottom of the new, shorter legs.  Does anyone have any brilliant suggestions as to how to fill the base of the legs in order to accept a spike?

3.  If I use this type of rack, exploiting the supposed benefits of lightweight, rigid coupling, what should I use between my components and the shelves of the rack?  If I use something squishy to isolate the gear from vibrations, do I get a "best of both worlds" outcome?  Or do I simply detract from the benefits of rigid coupling?  If I do need to go in the coupling direction, is there any clear advantage to be found between cones/spikes and other things like magic myrtlewood cubes?  If I'm to go with spikes/cones, is there any difference between using them pointing up and pointing down?

Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide.

Chad

[gitarretyp]

As I'm cheap and have aspirations to better sounds than I probably deserve, I've decided to build an IKEA-Lyte equipment rack following the instructions of mastermind Ken Lyon ( http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1001889380&openflup&11&4#11 ).  I'm hoping that others have tried this, and might be able to answer three questions.

1.  The instructions call for a number of side tables one greater than the number of components to be housed.  The implication seems to be that no component sits on the bottom shelf.  Why?  If I put something on the bottom shelf, will I mess everything up?

2.  The legs of the Lack side tables are apparently no longer solid, but are largely hollow.  So when I cut the legs down, I'm unlikely to be able to screw spikes into the bottom of the new, shorter legs.  Does anyone have any brilliant suggestions as to how to fill the base of the legs in order to accept a spike?

3.  If I use this type of rack, exploiting the supposed benefits of lightweight, rigid coupling, what should I use between my components and the shelves of the rack?  If I use something squishy to isolate the gear from vibrations, do I get a "best of both worlds" outcome?  Or do I simply detract from the benefits of rigid coupling?  If I do need to go in the coupling direction, is there any clear advantage to be found between cones/spikes and other things like magic myrtlewood cubes?  If I'm to go with spikes/cones, is there any difference between using them pointing up and pointing down?

Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide.

Chad

I use the coffee table versions of the table for my main rack/tv stand and the side tables as a second, side rack (you can seem some images of my implementation in the gallery). I purchased mine several years ago, but as far as i know, the faux wood tables have always been the ones manufactures with solid legs, and the colored tables have always been hollow. I also use the bottom table for equipment. As for coupling/decoupling, i believe it makes the most sense to couple to the tables. That said, i haven't experimented much with footers on any components aside from my speakers.

[warnerwh]

I don't know what the cost of this rack is but I personally like the Salamander clones. I saw a Salamander rack at a store here and decided to build one, then learned alot of others have done the same. This is because it's inexpensive, solid and versatile. If you can drill holes and tighten some large nuts you can do it also.

They're easy to design any way you like and if your gear changes you can adjust the shelving. You can also finish the wood any way you like. If you research it and need any help just pm me. There's lots of info regarding these home made racks.

[lonewolfny42]

Mike/mgalusha has a nice DIY rack.......

Here's...another...a little smaller.

And....another.......

[JLM]

Speaking of Ikea/equipment racks, someone (sorry can't remember who, but would like to thank) posted this link for a small/cheap but well built little rack: 

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?topcategoryId=15558&catalogId=10103&storeId=12&productId=11460&langId=-1&categoryId=15620&chosenPartNumber=95699507

$30 plus shipping per cabinet, will hold three "full" sized components, two on very thick shelves.  I bought two (one is used as a matching side table that I left the legs off to keep it lower).  I left the wheels off the other, making the "posts" into blunt spikes (carpet over concrete slab).  The middle shelf holds power supplies.  SB and small tube pre-amp will fit on top and Channel Island monoblocks fit on the bottom.  3 ft IC are needed to reach top to bottom.  I also like that it's small, so it stays out of the way of the soundstage.

Disclaimer:  I'm old school, have never noticed any improvement from footers or bases, trust the manufacturer to supply whatever feet might work best.

[chadh]

Cost for Ikea-lyte...$13 for each Lack side table, plus spikes for each leg on each table (Madisound has packets of 4 of the appropriately sized spikes for $2.40, or you can cut and grind threaded rods into spikes for even less money), and some glue to help hold the legs to the tables.  If it weren't for the hollow leg problem, this would also be the easiest DIY project I could imagine - much easier than the flexy rack.

The guy who suggested this design makes Neuance shelves.  He claims that the structure of the Lack tables allows them to operate in a similar way to his high priced shelves (they're both laminated constrained layer devices).  In the audiogon thread to which I linked before, he observes that the flexy style racks offer nothing other than a structure to hold your components.  (He clearly doesn't approve of Salamander et al, as they charge a lot without providing any structural means to sonic improvements).   I'm sure that I don't appreciate the relative merits of isolation versus coupling, and I certainly don't have any way to choose between specific methods of coupling, nor methods of isolation.  I'll probably never understand how vibrations might be turned into heat inside a constrained layer device.  But for $30 worth of IKEA tables, and $10 worth of spikes, if it's worth even half the price of a rack full of Neuance shelves I will have scored a huge bargain.

Chad

[rajacat]

In regards to the hollow leg problem perhaps you could mix a batch of epoxy and pour it into the legs. The epoxy can then be tapped for the installation of spikes.

Raja

[chadh]

In regards to the hollow leg problem perhaps you could mix a batch of epoxy and pour it into the legs. The epoxy can then be tapped for the installation of spikes.

Raja

Raja,

Thanks for the suggestion. 

I'd pondered the epoxy idea;  but I wasn't so sure that I could tap it for spikes.  If the epoxy is tappable, then this is very good news. 

Chad

[rajacat]

Epoxy is very tough stuff. Maybe you could do a test run . Use an industrial grade epoxy like WEST SYSTEMS and once you make the tap and when you insert the spike, coat the threads with more epoxy just for good measure. Alas, one problem when working with epoxy is that it is almost impossible to backtrack and if if doesn't work you've destroyed the piece.

[samplesj]

Which finish did you get?  Like gitarretyp only the fake "wood" tables have solid legs.  My beech table legs are filled the complete length.

Did you order or buy locally?  If you bought locally can you take them back or trade them out?

Like you I was going to go the flexy route and found Ken's design.  I have no idea if it sounds better than a flexy would have, but it was close enough to the same price that I figured why not if there is even a chance it will be better because of the honeycomb material.

[chadh]

I picked up the tables in Canton, MI (about 40 minutes' drive from me), and they are in the Birch finish.  Or beech.  I can't remember - but it's a fake wood.  I guess I should chop up a leg at some stage to see if any of this is a problem.

Thanks guys.

Chad

[JLM]

I prefer the Ikea Corras nightstand as it's shaped to look like a small audio rack, offers two thick plus a third thinner shelf with the thick shelves apparently built like the Lack, and has holes already pre-drilled for footers.  At this price point ($30 each) shipping cost become significant (for me it was $30 for two to mid-Michigan), so the "bang for the buck" factor is higher than the Lack.

[lonewolfny42]

I prefer the Ikea Corras nightstand as it's shaped to look like a small audio rack, offers two thick plus a third thinner shelf with the thick shelves apparently built like the Lack, and has holes already pre-drilled for footers.  At this price point ($30 each) shipping cost become significant (for me it was $30 for two to mid-Michigan), so the "bang for the buck" factor is higher than the Lack.

As for Ikea Corras....came across this listing on Craigs List....S.F. Bay area.....in silver.