Question for speaker box designers ...

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DSK

Question for speaker box designers ...
« on: 19 May 2006, 01:15 am »
I'm currently building some very rigid and heavy standmount sealed boxes (22"H x 9"W x 13.75"D). I have incorporated a separate section in the bottom of the box for the crossover.

I'm wondering what is the best way to run the wire (from XO to drivers) from XO section to main sealed section (ie. through the internal floor) and keep the main section tightly sealed? I do not want any breaks or connectors in the wire.

The wire is Figure-8 style. My thought is to drill 2 holes at same distance between centres as the 2 parts of the Figure-8 wire, with each hole being barely large enough for the wire to pass through. I would then countersink the holes on both sides and fill with glue or wood putty to seal the wires in place in the holes.

Does anyone have any better solutions to this issue?

JoshK

Question for speaker box designers ...
« Reply #1 on: 19 May 2006, 01:29 am »
I don't think you have to be that tedious. Drill holes slightly larger than wire and then seal with silicone calk.  viola, should work wonders.

DSK

Question for speaker box designers ...
« Reply #2 on: 19 May 2006, 02:01 am »
Quote from: JoshK
I don't think you have to be that tedious. Drill holes slightly larger than wire and then seal with silicone calk.  viola, should work wonders.

Josh, are you suggesting that slight air leaks would not matter ...or that silicone caulk is as good or better than wood glue or wood putty for this application?

My apprehension is that anything with some thickness to it (like silicone caulk) may not seep down into the small gap betwen wire and hole to totally seal the gaps. The idea of countersinking the hole on each side is that it would act like a well and allow the wood glue (or whatever) to seep down into the gap around the wire. The well on each side, being wider than the holes, would act like an anchor on each side to prevent the wood glue or putty or whatever from hardening, separating from the edges of the hole and falling out. ...at least, that's my theory  :o   The other idea I had, for a more easily flowing substance to totally fill the gaps around the wires, was to use hot wax.

Christof

Question for speaker box designers ...
« Reply #3 on: 19 May 2006, 02:13 am »
Use something thick like hot glue or silicone as Josh suggested and pull down on the wires a little to help the sealant get into the small hole(s).  If you dont think this will do the trick then seal both sides of the hole.  I would not use anything that will shrink like wood glue or wood filler.

DSK

Question for speaker box designers ...
« Reply #4 on: 19 May 2006, 02:46 am »
Thanks Josh & Christof.

Does silicone adhere well to raw MDF? Do you think I would need to add a retaining clip for the cable on each side to reduce movement of the cable at the siliconed hole ...or will the silicone be strong enough on its own?

Christof

Question for speaker box designers ...
« Reply #5 on: 19 May 2006, 03:28 am »
If you add a retaining clip you will need to account for displacement :wink:  Silicone holds to MDF very well, just be sure to clean the area of dust and debris before applying.

DSK

Question for speaker box designers ...
« Reply #6 on: 19 May 2006, 04:07 am »
Quote from: Christof
If you add a retaining clip you will need to account for displacement :wink:  

Apparently it is evident from my posts just how anal I am about these things  :lol:  How did you know that I'd written a spreadsheet to calculate the internal volume to 3 decimal places? (Sadly, I'm not kidding  :oops: )