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Ideas for room
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Ideas for room
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mcgsxr
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Posts: 5868
Mark in Burlington, Canada
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27 Mar 2006, 11:34 pm »
I have asked a couple of folks privately about how they did their rooms, and am now taking it public!
I have a unique situation (hmmn, don't we all!) in that I will be looking to convert my unfinished basement, into a dual/tri purpose area.
1 - Boston sized pool table - ie likely to be 4x8, but could grow to 4.5x9 if I can find one affordably.
2 - Family Room/HT - not an HT install, but a simple family room style 5.1 setup.
3 - 2 channel haven - behind the family room area, off to the side of the pool table area.
Now for the hard part.
The unfinished space is 25x35-40, depending on where you measure. Based on furnace placement, and the 2 other poles down there, I will likely end up with a space around 25x25x7-7.5.
Bad for bass, as I see some multiples of 8...
I cannot put a wall up down the middle, cause I want the space for pool playing.
What would you guys suggest?
Also, seeking some advice around sound transmission reduction, vertically - not sound proofing, I am not going that far, but I would like to be able to have the sub on during movies on weekend nights, after the little ones go off to bed, up on the 2nd floor.
I
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warnerwh
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Reply #1 on:
28 Mar 2006, 01:38 am »
When you do your ceiling be sure to use resilient channel. Do a Google, this stuff helps alot. I put up soundboard, then the RC, sheetrock and lastly acoustic tiles. My system uses VMPS RM 40's with a VMPS Sub. In the living room directly above only a bit of the bass comes through when turned up. RC is very inexpensive. You should also put the RC up asymmetrically.
Whatever you do
don't
make a square room. Make one of the other spaces larger. If the pool room is next to you then more space is welcome. Be sure to leave a bare minimum of 5' all around the pool tables outside edges, 6" is much better as cues are usually about 5' long and you have to account for your stroke.
Here's a bit of advice. Use an 8' table if you're pressed for space at all. Have the pockets made a tad tight. Using an 8' table is a great way to practice if you play alot on a 9 footer because you have to be better at getting shape. I don't know how advanced you are but I know some old pro's used to do this as well as myself. Also buy a Brunsick, Connelly or Olhausen table used before buying any other brand new, you want 3 piece slate and good rails. Don't let the guy who sets it up leave until it's perfect!
Plan on adding acoustic treatments to this room. It's the single most important upgrade you can do to your system, period. Four bass traps, first reflection points treated and possibly alot more treatment. You'll hear the best sound you've ever heard. My personal room is better than the local brick and mortar store's sound.
The ceiling I described above cost me about 400 in material. I installed it myself. Well worth the effort though as I can listen as loud as I want when others are directly above me. You should also fill the rafters with insulation btw.
With as much space as you have to work with I'd be inclined to find out the best dimensions possible. Maybe 17x25 or something. Ask someone who know's the best ratio's to use. I just know you don't want the same or multiples of a dimension.
Best of luck with your new room. It's so nice to have a dedicated room. Wish you lived close by so I could come play pool with you. I no longer have a table or know anybody with one as I quite playing 4 years ago. Yes, it was a woman.
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bpape
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Posts: 4465
I am serious and don't call my Shirley
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Reply #2 on:
28 Mar 2006, 01:16 pm »
The transmission isolation is only as good as the weakest part. If the ceiling is done in an isolated fashion but not the walls, the sound will simply flank around the ceiling and up through the wall or through the ceiling in the next room.
For best control and predictability, I'd recommend using RSIC and hat channel instead of RC. RC does a great job of isolation but is very unpredictable in terms of where your resonances will be - not to mention being VERY easy to short out with just 1 or 2 incorrectly placed screws.
Can you post a basic sketch of the space with maybe a couple of your thoughts as to where you'd like things? It's easier to visualize that way.
In any case, it sounds like you're on your way to having a great aread. Good luck!
Bryan
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mcgsxr
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Mark in Burlington, Canada
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Reply #3 on:
28 Mar 2006, 01:48 pm »
I will do my best to do a sketch, and scan it in etc.
I had a decent contractor in last night, who has built sound related rooms in the past - not HIFI guys, but rooms for drums, and isolating them from the rest of the house, that sort of experience.
warnerwh - wish you were around here too! I have played seriously since 1990, and have run two leagues in the past - I am a passionate, if not particularly good player - this is to say that I beat 90% of the general public, but under tourney play, am a middle of the pack performer. I recall well the first pro I ever played, back in '96. He beat me 100-9 in 9 ball... I learned a lot, and laughed a lot too - fascinating to see someone that good, right in front of you!
I will be seeking a 4x8, and can arrange to have 6 foot clearance on all sides of the table, barring one post - there is always a friggin post! I could have it removed, but for the 5-8K... no. Because the room is open concept, I can simply push the pool table off the walls, and toward the centre of the room - a couch is lower than the stroke height, so having couches within 5 feet of the table is no issue, it is just the one spot where the post is, that will impede play.
Because the room is totally open concept though, I run into the 24x24 shape - there will be a powder room jutting into one corner, and some stairs that run down beside that, but other than that, it is one large square room, with a post in it.
I know that I cannot move any walls, unless I give up my pool table.
I also know that it will be an uphill battle with my wife, around no pot lights, since adding those basically ruins the whole isolated ceiling thing...
Perhaps in the end, the ugly head of compromise will ruin it all, but I would love some input from folks, prior to setting up walls etc, around how I can MINIMIZE the impacts of a square room.
Does it mean that I will need a TACT setup, or a Behringer or something, where I can measure the room, and address cutting frequencies etc?
Thanks for your time all, during my planning phase!
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