Need treament advice for my GARAGE

Ernest · « **on:** 18 Oct 2005, 05:26 pm »

My garage is currently the only space in my house with room for my audio system. My oldest son worked to turn it into a room and the result is very nice. It has dry wall for the walls and ceiling, carpet over concrete on the floor, was painted, and was rewired by an electrician (but not with anything special). The garage door is still there and has an automatic opener and rails still up.

The room is 11.5' wide, 23' deep, and 8' high. The right side of the room is attached to the house and the left side is an outside wall of the house. Above the celing is part of the attic.

My audio setup is backed against the garage door, which is some kind of metal. The other end of the room has a TV against the wall, a freezer in one corner, and couches along each side wall.

What's the best way to treat this room using the Adapt products?

Thanks!

Ernest

JLM · « **Reply #1 on:** 19 Oct 2005, 10:40 am »

The overhead garage door is no doubt steel. Can you replace the door with more drywall over studs?

How will you heat the space? Is that door insulated?

Phil gave me some advice in a thread below (use 2 corners and 3 rectangles on the front wall/wall/ceiling).

ScottMayo · « **Reply #2 on:** 19 Oct 2005, 01:31 pm »

Quote from: Ernest

My garage is currently the only space in my house with room for my audio system. My oldest son worked to turn it into a room and the result is very nice. It has dry wall for the walls and ceiling, carpet over concrete on the floor, was painted, and was rewired by an electrician (but not with anything special). The garage door is still there and has an automatic opener and rails still up.

The room is 11.5' wide, 23' deep, and 8' high. ...

You have a PM. In general, because the dimensions are a bit unfriendly, anything you can do to change the room shape might well be worthwhile. A drywall over that garage door, in a foot or so, could make a real difference, if it's feasible.

Ernest · « **Reply #3 on:** 19 Oct 2005, 09:02 pm »

The room has a portable heater/air conditioner that sits against a wall near the middle of the room. The garage door is not insulated at this time. I could have a wall built in front of the door. How far into the room would be best to build the wall?

ScottMayo · « **Reply #4 on:** 19 Oct 2005, 10:51 pm »

Quote from: Ernest

The room has a portable heater/air conditioner that sits against a wall near the middle of the room. The garage door is not insulated at this time. I could have a wall built in front of the door. How far into the room would be best to build the wall?

The idea is to keep the distances from being simple multiples of each other. 11.5 is exactly half of 23 - the only thing worse, is a square room.

Bringing it in a foot or two will help. Figuring out what's optimal takes some time in modelling software or a lot of time with graph paper, but 11.5x21x8 is better than what you have now.

It might not be a concern - depends on what you have and how you listen, and how much stuff you have in the room absorbing reflections (and where). Your ears will let you know.

JLM · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 Oct 2005, 10:52 pm »

The ancient Greeks had this figured out (after all their buildings were solid stone, so the acoustics had to be terrible). They called it the golden rectangle, a ratio of 5 to 8. From that we've derived a western sense for proper visual proportion. The idea to to keep multiples of each dimension from coinceding. Modern man has developed the exact ratio of 1.612.

So, the ideal room would be 1.612 times wider than tall and 1.612 longer than wide.