[Jeff_From_Michigan]

Hello, I am trying to tweak the system after settling on what for me are very satisfying components. 

My question: Does anyone have a recommendation for a good resistor that will help take the sting out of what I perceive as over-brightness in the upper treble region, even just a bit?  (I've come to understand that the resistors that Magnepan ships with the speakers are not good.)

If someone could offer a good-sounding alternative that doesn't break the bank, I'd be most appreciative.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions. 

[FullRangeMan]

Put a black felt cloth in front of the driver.
Metal grid as Acutton drivers use are not suited.

[DaveC113]

Hello, I am trying to tweak the system after settling on what for me are very satisfying components. 

My question: Does anyone have a recommendation for a good resistor that will help take the sting out of what I perceive as over-brightness in the upper treble region, even just a bit?  (I've come to understand that the resistors that Magnepan ships with the speakers are not good.)

If someone could offer a good-sounding alternative that doesn't break the bank, I'd be most appreciative.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Duelund, Mundorf, Mills Wire Wound

FWIW, harshness is often from things that could be improved like AC power noise, poor quality cables and cheap connectors and it's best to do as much as possible to reduce harshness, grain, glare, etc. rather than try to mask it. That said, using better quality xo components is never a bad idea as xo's can contribute quite a bit to those same issues.

[HAL]

Parts Express sells noninductive audio power resistors that can be used as the LRS tweeter attenuators. 

They have some values of Mills 12Watt style resistors, but others of that type would work.  If you need a higher power rating, then you can use 2 in parallel at 2x the resistance value needed to make what is needed.

[SteveFord]

I believe you're using a tube preamp?
If so, it could be as simple as just trying a different brand of tubes.

[mick wolfe]

When I sense something similar to what is mentioned by the OP, I look at the source first. However, if a previous speaker has recently been replaced by the LRS, it may just be that a revealing speaker like the LRS is simply exposing of a flaw in the chain......be it a component, cable or even the need for acoustic room treatment.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

I used Mills resistors with my Magnepan 1.6's then switched to Duelund Carbon resistors.  What I recommend first is to buy some cheap sandcast resistors and find what value sounds best.  Anywhere from 1ohm to 1.5 ohms.  Once you find that value, buy the Mills which I found to be very warm but the Duelunds were about right.  The sand cast resistors suck but you will get an idea about how much ohm reduction you need.

https://partsconnexion.com/duelund-resistor-1r5-1-5r-ohm-10w-cast-graphite-series-silver-leads/?searchid=0&search_query=duelund+resistors

[I.Greyhound Fan]

When I sense something similar to what is mentioned by the OP, I look at the source first. However, if a previous speaker has recently been replaced by the LRS, it may just be that a revealing speaker like the LRS is simply exposing of a flaw in the chain......be it a component, cable or even the need for acoustic room treatment.

Mick, Magnepans can have some treble brightness.  I have lived with Magnepans for almost 30 years.  I use higher end resistors to take the edge off.  They work great.  There was a member here who has the Magnepan 20's and he had the same problem.  I loaned him my resistors and he went with the Mills.

[Speedskater]

An inductor like a crossover inductor will tame high end response, a resistor will tame all frequency response.
You might try widely spaced speaker wires (not inches, feet).

[FullRangeMan]

This speaker is very problematic, low impedance, low sensitivity, complex crossover with a fuse and now this. Even the factory couldn't fix this thing.

I would sell it and buy an OB dynamic speakers like Li Audio Song F15 or F18.

[Jeff_From_Michigan]

Thanks for all of the replies so far!  It seems like the Mills resistors have worked well for people.  I understand what some of you are saying about other components, cables and the room. I do have an absolutely terrible room for a number of reasons, but despite all of that I'm at a place where I'm happy with the music that the system is putting out. Looking to find a solution to this one small issue (hopefully an inexpensive fix) led me to the resistors as a possible solution.

I am running my LUMIN direct to the power amps at the moment, but I remember the "hash" when either my Van Alstine T10-RB or Odyssey Candela were in the chain as well.

Interesting what you say about inductors and resistors, speedskater.  Magnepan specifically mentions trying the resistors to tame a "hot top end", and includes them with the speakers. I've just never tried them, because I've heard from multiple sources how lousy they are compared to Mills and others.

I'm going to try and locate the resistors that came with the speakers to see which one seems best at addressing the sizzle before buying more expensive ones, as Greyhound suggested.

If I don't have any luck with a couple of new resistor trials, I might ultimately try the upgrade package from GR Research. I just have that nagging suspicion that these speakers can be so much better.

Again, thanks to everyone.  Your guidance and ideas are sensible and most appreciated!

[I.Greyhound Fan]

The Maggies typically come with 1 ohm sandcast resistors.  You can usually get them for under $2.  I preferred the Duelund to the Mills which seemed to roll of the highs a bit much compared to the Duelund.

[Jeff_From_Michigan]

The Maggies typically come with 1 ohm sandcast resistors.  You can usually get them for under $2.  I preferred the Duelund to the Mills which seemed to roll of the highs a bit much compared to the Duelund.

I'll have to check the Duelunds out, thanks!

[Jeff_From_Michigan]

I believe you're using a tube preamp?
If so, it could be as simple as just trying a different brand of tubes.

Steve, now you have me thinking: While I believe that I remember the same hash when using each of my two tube preamps, I admit that the memory might be foggy. Plus I have undoubtedly switched interconnects and speaker cables since I started running the LUMIN straight to the amps and who knows what wires were in place before that, so some experimenting is in order.  **Note to self: Take notes, Dummy! What I do know is that I don't recall this top-end sizzle ever being an issue with either my MMG's or 3.6R's.

Probably a good idea for me to put the preamps back into the chain one at a time.  This could be a fun experiment that also allows me to get the CD player back in the chain and see which I prefer: the sound of CD's or the same material streamed from the LUMIN with Qobuz.  I can only remember one case of doing a serious comparison a few years ago (Los Lobos: "Kiko"), and I remember prefering the sound of the CD to the streamed version.  I'll have to try again, but this time comparing the CD to the Qobuz 16/44 and upsampled to DSD versions and seeing which I prefer in the current set-up. But I digress - that's another project for another day...

[SteveFord]

Tubes do wear over time and changing them out can make a dramatic difference.
I recently was driving myself crazy over my Sonic Frontiers SFL-2 preamp with my Mini Maggies, the midrange was missing and the highs were a bit much.
I tried replacement tubes (same brand), no improvement.
Maybe it's time for a new preamp but let's do some experimenting first.

I stuck in some old Amperex Bugle Boys and way too much bass, I stuck in some spare Electro Harmonix and just PERFECT.

I'm not quite sure which preamps you have but I would look at tubes first, what works in one system may not play well with other speakers/components.
I don't know if the supplied resistors are just not very good or what but I've always put them in and then took them right out.
I never experimented with resistors beyond that.

The LRS should sound very similar to the 3.6s although on a smaller scale, of course.
Keep us posted, please.

[mick wolfe]

Mick, Magnepans can have some treble brightness.  I have lived with Magnepans for almost 30 years.  I use higher end resistors to take the edge off.  They work great.  There was a member here who has the Magnepan 20's and he had the same problem.  I loaned him my resistors and he went with the Mills.

Finding a proper resistor would certainly be the cheapest solution. You do bring up a memory of my last Magnepan adventure. This with the MMG. I remember it being rather irritatingly bright as well. I found the perfect balance by sitting on a barstool with my ear at roughly the same height as the top of the speaker. Fortunately it was within a 30 day trial period and I ended up sending them back. If memory serves me correct, I found my previous SMG's to be a much better speaker that didn't display the brightness issue.