[toxteth ogrady]

Just passed the 100 hour mark on my Clari-t and overall I'm pretty amazed at what this thing can do. I've got some Super 3R's on the way, but I'm looking for ideas on a source, preferably one box under $1200. I was thinking of trying a Jolida JD100 or EE Minimax with upgraded Venhaus V-Caps (friggin' amazing caps by the way) It might fatten up the sound a bit and add some of that dimensionality... err, distortion that us tubeys enjoy. What are you guys using as your source?

[Vinnie R.]

Just passed the 100 hour mark on my Clari-t and overall I'm pretty amazed at what this thing can do. I've got some Super 3R's on the way, but I'm looking for ideas on a source, preferably one box under $1200. I was thinking of trying a Jolida JD100 or EE Minimax with upgraded Venhaus V-Caps (friggin' amazing caps by the way) It might fatten up the sound a bit and add some of that dimensionality... err, distortion that us tubeys enjoy. What are you guys using as your source?

Hi Toxteth,

Would you consider going the external DAC route?

I am now using a battery-powered Monica 2 DAC (http://www.redwineaudio.com/Custom_DAC_Installation.html)
with the Clari-T and LOVE the synergy.  The Monica 2 lacks the grain and sharpness that my CDPs are known for (that "digital" sound), and the Clari-T does a great job in amplifying this clean and pure battery powered signal w/o adding or taking away much.  

The one thing to note with the Monica 2 is that its output voltage is lower (around 0.7V) than the typcial 2V output of a CD/DVD player.  If you find that your Clari-T gets plenty loud before 10 o'clock on the volume, you'll be fine with this lower output voltage and you'll just turn the volume up more (actually giving you more range in volume control).  

A battery powered dac with more output would be the SN DacKit, or the Ack dAck 2.0.  

If the external DAC route is not your thing, I'm sure others can give you some good recommendations for a one-box solutiion.  Have you tried a modded Toshiba 3950 or 3960?  Don't let the price fool you...they can really perform with the Clari-T.  I have one here that I modded and use often,  and it can compete with CDPs costing much more $$$.

Regards,

[miklorsmith]

I'm using a heavily modified Music Hall player by Modwright.  Dan is a superstar with the tube mods and this thing sings.  Mine was $1,700 new, but there are used ones on Agon under $1k all the time.

His tube stages generally use 5687 tubes, which are very linear, i.e. not tubey in the usual sense.  They do impart the dimensionality and life you crave.

Have fun!

[toxteth ogrady]

Vinnie

Thanks for the suggestions. By the way, toxteth is my nom de plum. I'm the guy who sent you a drawing of a single enclosure to house a clari-T, puri-T, etc. etc. I just want to cut down on the clutter. The ack dack is good but I'd really like to consolidate things into one box. I'm entertaining the idea of buying a CD-Pro2 kit and shoving a dac inside but I don't have a lot of time for diy anymore... so I'll look at commercial one box players first.

Just out of curiosity can you give any preliminary info on your battery transport? What type of mechanism is it? I'd be interested in knowing if it could be put in it a custom case.


Thanks

[toxteth ogrady]

Miklor

Thanks for the tip. I'm not familiar with modwright but I'll look into their offerings.

[Dmason]

I don't think any upsampling one box solution is ultimately going to do it for you if your ears have become accustomed to NON-OS formats like the Ack Dack. If I were looking, I would head straight for the EE MiniMax.

 In fact, apart from large scale orchestral, I find everything sounds better on straight 16 bit.  The fancy way adds something between the notes, where with non oversampling, I am sure all users would agree, there is a blackness, and the notes start and stop on a dime, for want of a better descriptive. I conclude non oversampling methods are just plain more musical, without a hint of digititus, done right.

I also find the Monica 2  ~seems to exhibit greater synergy with the ClariT than the Nixon, though this could have to do with its more closely coupled relationship. My Toshiba 4960 doesnt sound markedly better or worse than my former Arcam FMJ CD23, once considered the King of CD players under $3K. The Monica sounds markedly better than both, and with the reclock circuit in place, it is even LESS susceptible to jitter, making transport quality almost a non issue. I would sleep on it for a month.

[-Richard-]

Hi Dan,

Really nice explanation...this gives me a good
insight into what the Monica is doing to justify
the very positive feedback it has been getting
and what it is about upsampled one box transports
that imparts a pronounced digital glint to the music...

Can you go a bit  deeper into your thoughts about the EE MiniMax.

Thanks for your insights.

Warm regards -Richard-

[1UP]

Some users on AA and Headfi have reported great results from a Chinese "giant-killer" CDP called the Eastsound CD-E5.  Maybe worth investigation.

[JLM]

I use a Sony S7700 (their first CD/DVD and a typical Sony statement product).  They were built from about 1998 - 2000 and retailed for $1200.  You can find them now for about $200.  What makes them special is the dual CD/DVD lasers (optimal CD head with added DVD mechanical precision).  What makes them a risk is age and breakdown.  Empirical Audio offers $500 - 1300 mods.  They have small green stickers on the back with a year/production run number.  Look for 00A to 00D (indicating it was built in 2000).

I also have an Ack dAck! v.2 with high resolution/high output options.  (The high output option wasn't needed.)  Together with my Clari-T they sound great.

[smargo]

I use a Sony S7700 (their first CD/DVD and a typical Sony statement product). They were built from about 1998 - 2000 and retailed for $1200. You can find them now for about $200. What makes them special is the dual CD/DVD lasers (optimal CD head with added DVD mechanical precision). What makes them a risk is age and breakdown. Empirical Audio offers $500 - 1300 mods. They have small green stickers on the back with a year/production run number. Look for 00A to 00D (indicating it was built in 2000).

I use my wife's mouth which is a typical feminine statement product - Built in circa 1957. You can't find them anymore. What makes her special are the high's which are shrill and the lows which are guilt ridden. What makes her a risk is age and menopause.

I did a mod on her - which now she is more like a "stepford" - you can tell by the dayglo marker on her back. Look for 666 - indicating "used to be the devil".

I also have al ittle girl about 5 years old - she sounds so sweet and well "tubelike" together with my clarit  - it's a heavenly sound.

Regards,
smargo