Budget Douk Audio A5 Class D Amp Mod- Nice amp addition for all audio enthusiast

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NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER

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Step bit or twist bit to drill your aluminum?

I’m pretty interested in learning more about working with Aluminum specifically for enclosures, etc, but realistically, I’ll just be using more basic, powered woodworking tools and hand tools. I’ve been doing some searching online as well, does anybody have a really good link or source for good basics or entry level type tutorials? 😇🤔

Step bits are typically better suited to drilling thinner aluminum sheets, it also deburs the aluminum too. Drilling thicker aluminum stock is better suited using a twist bit. Regardless of bits used, a center punch is recommended for accuracy. Cutting lubricant increases the lifespan of your drill bits. If your drilling aluminum stock thicker than 1/2", a drill press will benefit you substancially, keeping the hole drilled accurately to your specifications.

nlitworld

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Made all the changes today, case looks fantastic...... but it doesn't fire. Not sure if I toasted a part on the board or if the little tiny button on the front of the board actually does something as a safety measure. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯   There is power to the board, the main cap has 58v across it, but can't verify power after that and no lights or any sound. I didn't pull off the volume pot just yet, as I figured baby steps in mods. Either way, I'll do some troubleshooting to find out and worst case scenario I start over after buying another for $80.

But it looks great in there. And yes I know I accidentally drilled the board a little crooked.  :duh:





P.S. if anyone is planning to desolder anything on this board, you'll want a minimum 60w 750° iron as their lead free solder sucks to melt. I went and bought a big fat Weller 900° gun just because of this.

NIGHTFALL1970

That looks so freaking cool!!😎 👍🤟

NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER

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Lloyd,
If you need attenuator / switch extenders, here is one example available. I've personally never used them, therefore do your research to make sure they're a legitimate bussiness. https://www.audiyo.com/ext-kit.html

Using extenders, will give you more flexibility locating the PC board. If you relocate the PC board closer the rear of the enclosure, near the tube connectors and RCA terminals, your less likely to experience noise in the signal path. Simply by having shorter wire runs, will be beneficial. Longer wires have more surface area to act as an antenna, picking up electromagnetic interference (EMI) from sources like household wiring, radio signals, or for that matter any other audio associated equipment you have nearby.

« Last Edit: 5 Nov 2025, 04:56 pm by NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER »

nlitworld

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  • Strange things are afoot at the Circle K
Yeah my end goal is to remove the volume attenuator from the circuit rather than using an extender. If I need to keep it in there, I'll just keep it tucked inside the case with the volume up to max. I probably could scooch it back a little to limit cable lengths but wasn't super worried at the moment. Always a good tip though. :thumb:

Just in case I did something legit bad, I have another on the way from Amazon. Joys of inexpensive items, trial and error is not a concern. Hoping to tear into the other one tomorrow night to figure what I did though.

nlitworld

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  • Strange things are afoot at the Circle K




It's alive! Sometimes you do a big oopsie somewhere and just need to start with a new board. Snagged a new one, mods all redone as well, and just left the DC input and wired a plug. I'll let it play for a while, before assessing difference, but right now it sounds great and looks even better.  8)

P.S. I still say doing these mods necessitates dual soldering irons. Also the little tiny button tab near the high pass knob is actually a ground connection. That's now hard wired to a star ground in the middle (purple wire).

-Lloyd

nlitworld

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  • Strange things are afoot at the Circle K
Update: after a week of playing off & on (probably 40 hrs) it's leaving a bit to be desired with a case of the uglies. Granted, I did get a new unit and reassembled the mods, plus the LPS really gives some serious oomph to everything. BUT, it's also currently highlighting some S's and T's a bit hot. Hoping everything calms down in a week or so, otherwise I'll maybe roll stock opamps back in and look at capacitor swap to try and smooth things out. I'm guessing I just made too much of a good thing with all the detail seeking combined with new board setting in. Just would like some more body in the 200-800hz range.

Right now, there are lots of things awesome about it as it's very articulate with TONS of kick down low. Fingers crossed 🤞 it smooths out a bit over next week or two. It's all good as my pre has tone controls, so the treble knob is just a little turned down.

EDIT* I did just figure out that my first amp that I messed up was a V3 dated 4/10/25 and my "new" one recently assembled is a V2 dated 1/08/25 and I did notice some differences in the circuit designs. Most notably around the low pass filter section but a few others elsewhere on the board. Weird that I would get a previous gen model even when I purchased both through Amazon roughly 4 months apart.
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 12:36 am by nlitworld »

NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER

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Tommy2tone,
Here is a photo of my power cable going between my Acopian A48HT850 and the Douk Audio A5.
Hope this provides a little clarity with the cable, since I am not able to forward an attached photo, on AC's PM messaging. The links I sent you through PM, has all the links of cable, and various cable connector options as well.

Enjoy your new Acopian A48HT850 Linear power supply. It brings the A5 and NX-Studio's to life, expanding their true capabilities.

Cheers!

« Last Edit: Today at 01:50 pm by NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER »

NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER

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Update: after a week of playing off & on (probably 40 hrs) it's leaving a bit to be desired with a case of the uglies. Granted, I did get a new unit and reassembled the mods, plus the LPS really gives some serious oomph to everything. BUT, it's also currently highlighting some S's and T's a bit hot. Hoping everything calms down in a week or so, otherwise I'll maybe roll stock opamps back in and look at capacitor swap to try and smooth things out. I'm guessing I just made too much of a good thing with all the detail seeking combined with new board setting in. Just would like some more body in the 200-800hz range.

Right now, there are lots of things awesome about it as it's very articulate with TONS of kick down low. Fingers crossed 🤞 it smooths out a bit over next week or two. It's all good as my pre has tone controls, so the treble knob is just a little turned down.

EDIT* I did just figure out that my first amp that I messed up was a V3 dated 4/10/25 and my "new" one recently assembled is a V2 dated 1/08/25 and I did notice some differences in the circuit designs. Most notably around the low pass filter section but a few others elsewhere on the board. Weird that I would get a previous gen model even when I purchased both through Amazon roughly 4 months apart.

Lloyd,
Being you have a new LPS and new A5, your correct,  it will take some time to burn both components in. In my case, my LPS Acopians had been used in a recording studio environment extensively, with many hours of usage. Therefore, they didn't require burn in time, luckily.

When you mention the sound being a little hot, are you using any silver wire interconnects between the amps?  They can be very bright sounding, versus copper wire interconnects. Is the new set up running quietly?

Is your preamp a true tube preamp or a hybrid combination?  This is where a tube preamp, tones down the analytical traits, typically associated to class D amps. This really benefits the A5 / LPS adding some tube warmth quality, as well as providing a larger sound stage.

If your still experiencing the sound being still too bright to your taste, after burning in for a few hundred hours, as you mentioned,re-installing the stock op-amps may tone it down on the top end some. Although, I still think my SX52B's sound better than the stock NE5532's, which are warmer sounding. In your case may be another soluction too, if your still experiencing harshness on the top end.

Have you noticed how much cooler the A5 is operating, now it's being powered with a LPS, versus a GaN power supply? Mine is literally a 100% cooler. Good to hear you have it operational now, so you can enjoy the benefits of you efforts put forth, on your DIY build. I like the wood chassis. Have you finished the wood, by staining and applying a finish coat yet?

Looking forward to hearing more imput regarding your new LPS/A5 build. I'm thoroughly enjoying mine!  :thumb: