[jlucas]

I've seen a ton of variety used but no real rhyme or reason and I am now at the point I need to cut some boards.
Is there a min thickness?
Not a wood worker so no scraps around which means going out to a local store to buy something.
Any reason to not use wood and use thick plastic sheets (think cut down ikea cutting board) instead?

I'm building NX Studios. Most people appear to screw the crossover boards down but I did like the idea of more easily attaching and removing, so I saw the idea of using grille attachment clips which I could do but cause some delay waiting for parts.  Any reason not to use a couple dual lock tabs?

Thx!
(and sorry probably not the last questions)

[nadirmg]

I'm also about to begin building my NX Studios and interested in people's thoughts on this. Definitely going to use the grill attachments for the crossover boards.

[Peter J]

The grill attachment hardware is typically a ball and socket type with a barbed boss that recesses into panel for retention.  Most that I've seen require a drill depth of around 1/2".  I suppose one could have the hardware protruding from opposite side of crossover board if using 1/4" material, but I'd wonder about retention. I've never tried it.

Self-adhesive Hook and loop dots would serve same function without the depth concerns.

The actual material isn't really important as long as it's stiff enough and not electrically conductive. 1/4" ply or MDF is easy to work with and should be easy to find. I should add that screws are not all that difficult to remove should you decide to rework later on. Torx or square drive easier than Phillips or, god forbid, straight blade.

[E-Zee]

1/4" material for internal boards is plenty.  I like 1/4" Baltic birch but many others also use mdf or some type of pressed hardboard.  Just use what's easily available to you locally.   Potentially, the securement method could be more important than the material used.  Don't give it too much concern.  Whatever you pick should be fine.

Regarding specialty mounting clips, I may be alone in this feeling, but it is a lot of extra work and the main benefit I see is truly just a brag worthy photo and forum post. That is of course worth something, but it shouldn't be a necessity.  Once installed, very few people actually access their crossovers or change components at a future date. If you are going through that extra step "just in case" than maybe it's easier not to.  If you are insistent that you want to frequently be changing your crossover than there may be value in considering other options. A couple screws do however still remain an easy and dependable option. Good luck.

Elon

[EdwardT]

3M Dual Lock will do the job but you need a plan so you can dislodge it when that time comes if the crossover is inside. In that small space you'll need hands of steel to pull it back up, or a prying tool you can get into the cabinet. I used 1/4” ply and 1/4” fiberboard for crossovers as it is plenty thick enough and self taping Phillips screws; there was enough room in the LS, the SLS and the mini to maneuver a screwdriver…but that's with no drivers in the way.

[jlucas]

Good point about being able to pull it back up!  I’m building the speakers unfinished initially so I know they will come apart eventually at least once.

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

I would like respond to a comment made by E-Zee. Obviously your referring to my project, and I find your comment in bad taste.
First of all, I'm not bragging about what has produced positive results for my project. I'm not here to grandstand period!  This crossover board concept is for "ME" to benefit, I'm not pushing it onto others to use. I do plan on changing and experimenting with components on my crossover board. My project approach works for me, putting in the extra effort is my choice.

I'm very proud of the results thus far, therefore, E-Zee it might be best, to be careful with your comments. I've designated this build to my sister who recently died, and I'm very passionate about this project. The ole saying still holds true, if you don't have anything nice to say, keep it to yourself!

[E-Zee]

NX-Studio Drummer.  I'm sorry that I said something that upset you.  There is Zero part of me that was attacking or even thinking about your post.  Yes, I was considering detachable mounting posts as a concept in the discussion, but nothing targeted against you or your specific posts.  I've enjoyed seeing your posts and your handiwork very much. You've made some great contributions and your mounting posts and setup is a great idea.   Perhaps I should have explained myself differently or used different explanations.  Perhaps I'm misinterpreting the question by the OP, but I assure you that I was not thinking about or attacking your post. 

I have talked with many, many people intimidated and even paralyzed by different aspects of DIY, and feeling like they just can't get to a certain level of skill or accomplishment, which is why they are asking for help. Often times they are trying to add all of the extra features they have seen others add, even though they don't have the same need or the same skill.  That includes many people who have asked me for help coming up with a quick detach solution or acces panel, "just in case".  My suggestion in that case remains the same.  "Just in case" is not always enough of a reason as there are tradeoffs to each "just in case" option.  The OP stated he is not a woodworker. He doesn't have scraps.  He is building an NX-Studio pair which has a large enough woofer opening and short enough reach to access crossover.   My recommendation to him based upon his stated entry level of woodworking, and based upon the kit he is building, remains the same, even if it unintentionally offended you. 

My recommendation to the OP is to not worry so much about a fancy retention or quick disconnect.  If he does have a need at some point to remove the crossovers, he will have plenty of access through the driver port. 

I agree with you that my comment about brag posts is lacking context and can sound offensive. I was just trying to be brief and illustrate a point which absolutely has validity, but was not meant to be a direct attack against anyone. I only pop onto the forums here to appreciate the fine work of others (because I do enjoy brag posts) and I try to be of assistance if I can. I'm certainly not here to get into personal battles with anyone. Sir, I'm sorry for offending you and I will withdraw myself from this specific post. Your welcome to have the last word.

I do hope the OP enjoys and is successful with his project, and doesn't feel a need to overcomplicate anything unnecessary beyond his skill.

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

No need for either to have the last word, the objective is to enjoy the passion of DIY Audio!

[Theronbo]

Building cross overs for AV1-RS 2-way surround.

Using 3/16” pine plywood that was scraps from a cupboard built in my kitchen.

Seems perfect.

Have a question… verify I’ve connected bits correctly.


One cap was 12uF, but marked 20 in the diagram. & a little 0.1uF in-line that wasn’t marked at all… first couldn’t tell the cap from the 2K resister… but I’m old now… seems I just stare at stuff long enough… it makes sense.

[Theronbo]

Reply with image orientation fixed

[Vince in TX]

3M Dual Lock will do the job but you need a plan so you can dislodge it when that time comes if the crossover is inside. In that small space you'll need hands of steel to pull it back up, or a prying tool you can get into the cabinet. I used 1/4” ply and 1/4” fiberboard for crossovers as it is plenty thick enough and self taping Phillips screws; there was enough room in the LS, the SLS and the mini to maneuver a screwdriver…but that's with no drivers in the way.

I can attest to this.    It took a good bit of force to pry that sucker back up:





EDIT:  Side note, I used a small sheet of 1/4" fiber board I picked up at Home Depot:

[Digi-G]

For my NX Studio build, which is finally coming along nicely, I used 1/4" maple (or white birch).  It comes in approx 6" wide x 24" or 36" long at Lowes for less than $10.  It was perfect, though I'm sure several materials would work well.  I didn't bother to paint or otherwise finish mine and each board will be held in place with 3 screws.