[mikef]

I should be receiving my 626Rs today (bought used) and I need quality stands for them.

What about building 22x10x13 MDF boxes and filling them with sand? I would spike these to the floor, so the height is 22" to allow for the height of the spikes. This would give me the recommended "beard", but on all 4 sides. Should be better than just a beard on the front, right? I could make the front face longer to accomodate the height of the spikes, so no leakage of bass sound waves would occur.

Also, what should I put between the speaker and the top of the box? Sorbothane? Herbie's Tenderfeet? Suggestions wanted.

One last question - I would probably spray the speaker stand boxes with truck bedliner paint. I've seen this done on some DIY speaker projects, and for little money (and a finish that I could accomplish with my meager skill level) it looks good. However, this gives a rough surface to the object being sprayed. Would this interfere with the intended nature of the "beard" to reinforce bass frequencies? In other words, does the surface need to be smooth to work properly?

Thanks for your replies

Mike

[John Casler]

Hi Mike,

Sounds like the perfect stand to me.  

Just make sure that the 22" is adequate for your sitting height (ear level should be about the upper 1/3 of the neopanel)

Although I have placed both the SKYLAN and Sound Anchor stands with 626R clients, I think your "custom" stands would be the best.

I have many times suggested that 626R owners take "old box speakers", gut them, fill in the driver cut outs, fill with sand and paint to suit, for inexpensive stands.

Sounds like you have it.

Shoot us a picture when your done.

[bubba966]

As long as you made sure that the stand was quite rigid (from internal bracing or double up on the 3/4" MDF) that should make a nice stand.

And Herbie's Tenderfeet would be great between the 626 & the stand. I've only heard the 626's once, and that's what was underneath them.

Don't know about the surface texture question though...

[John Casler]

 

One last question - I would probably spray the speaker stand boxes with truck bedliner paint. I've seen this done on some DIY speaker projects, and for little money (and a finish that I could accomplish with my meager skill level) it looks good. However, this gives a rough surface to the object being sprayed. Would this interfere with the intended nature of the "beard" to reinforce bass frequencies? In other words, does the surface need to be smooth to work properly?

.

Oooops I missed that question.

The textured finish will be no problem to that size wavelength.

[BrunoB]

Hi Mike,

Sounds like the perfect stand to me.  

Just make sure that the 22" is adequate for your sitting height (ear level should be about the upper 1/3 of the neopanel)

Hi John,

If the speakers have the FST tweeter upgrade, wouldn't be better to have the tweeters at ear level? I am suggesting this because unlike the old tweeter, the FST ribbon is recessed (about 15 mm), therefore placed at ear level it would have a shorter path to the listening position. This would provide better time alignement with the midrange. (Note that I haven't tried this setup myself because I have modified the driver positions of my 626R.)

Bruno

[BobMajor]

I just did a test with my 626Rs. I found that the best ear level was as posted on the VMPS site (Europe?). They recommend the ear level be at the midpoint of the neopanel. If the ear height is higher the treble is attenuated. If the ear level is as high as the tweeter the attentuation is very serious.
I have the Sound Anchor stands but they are very costly. They're as rigid as you could possibly get for a mere 80 lbs.

[John Casler]

Hi John,

If the speakers have the FST tweeter upgrade, wouldn't be better to have the tweeters at ear level? I am suggesting this because unlike the old tweeter, the FST ribbon is recessed (about 15 mm), therefore placed at ear level it would have a shorter path to the listening position. This would provide better time alignement with the midrange. (Note that I haven't tried this setup myself because I have modified the driver positions of my 626R.)

Hi Bruno,

Most of the time, as Bob below has mentioned, the it is best to be in the "blend" between the neopanel and the tweeter.

I generally have that line as the 2/3rds line of the neopanel but that can be adjusted depending on the "listening distance".

Height can also be adjusted based on convergence angle and listening distance if one is inclined toward such precision.

It is not as critical an issue with the FST, since it has greater vertical dispersion than the spiral.

You'll notice that the FST on the RM30 integrates quite well at a height of over 45" as does the same tweeter on the RM40 at well below that height.

[BrunoB]

I just did a test with my 626Rs. I found that the best ear level was as posted on the VMPS site (Europe?). They recommend the ear level be at the midpoint of the neopanel. If the ear height is higher the treble is attenuated. If the ear level is as high as the tweeter the attentuation is very serious.

Yes, that makes sense. I forgot that there is quite a bit of treble coming out of the midpanel and, since the midpanel vertical dispersion for high frequencies is not as good as the FST, this is why, I guess, it is better to have the ear level at  the midpanel and not the FST. In my setup, I also choose to set the ear level at the midpoint of the midpanel but I modified the FST of my 626R such that it aims to the ear level, somehow like the RM-X.


Bruno

[Pocketchange]

FWIW...

   After a little thought...
   Here's what I did.

   I wanted a stand that ended up being aprox. 2' tall and a ft. wide.  Why,
you may ask?  To have enough room to move the 626R around without having to move the stand itself.  Read on and see y.
   It needed to be solid enough for reasons most everyone will understand
and a bit of a project (for something to do, beside send someone a check).
   Heavy, a couple of ft. tall... ok, sounds like 24" x 12" Ibeam to me.  After a few days crusing the scrap yards, I located a piece long enough to make four stands.  Getting them cut, cost about half the price of what the IBeam
cost.  Beard next, how about a brushed SS shallow pan, glued over both ends and trimmed side fillers made from acoustic foam glued on plywood.
   How much do they weigh... you ask?  Too much to move without a hand truck.  I glued a very nice piece of cut and edged hi ounce carpet on the bottom and a piece of open core foam on top (so they would not slide around if bumped).  WAF is tops, she picked out the foam insert color for the sides.   All the edges are round enough, in case I have too many adult beverages... and that's it.
   I would tell how much one weighs but I can't lift it and one trip thru the house with the hand truck was all I was allowed.  My guess would be in the
150 lb range.