Smoothing joins

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NoahH

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Smoothing joins
« on: 6 Nov 2021, 04:14 pm »
Hi all,
I am not the best woodworker and wanted to vet something with experts before I potentially make a mistake.

I have the first baffle for my NX-tremes glued up. It is largely good but there are a couple spots where the side baffles stick just a touch out from the front baffle. There is also a touch of glue that leaked onto those edges which is not a big deal except that it is a little more resistant to sanding than the MDF around it.

I am planning on using high grit count sanding discs on an orbital sander to very lightly lower the surface on the side baffles to better mate with the front. I am presuming that doing that with extremely light pressure will also likely better remove the glue and not result in a high spot where the glue resisted sanding.

Given that I can see this being pretty destructive if the wrong choice, I wanted to ask for the wisdom of the crowd before I go forward.

Thanks all!

S Clark

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Re: Smoothing joins
« Reply #1 on: 6 Nov 2021, 04:24 pm »
You can make it work.  Use a light hand and make lots of passes. 

subsonic1050

Re: Smoothing joins
« Reply #2 on: 6 Nov 2021, 04:25 pm »
I want to be a little clear about something - when you say that you have the first baffle glued up - what do you mean by that? Did you not glue up the entire speaker at once? If so, you're probably going to have some problems. Any time you have a complex cabinet like this, you can't glue up in stages - things will not line up properly. In any case, what's done is done right now - I hope that you don't have any of those issues going forward.

In response to your actual question - yes, that is the way you would clean up the variance where the front baffle meets the side wings on the outside. Use the orbital sander but keep it moving - never stop in one spot to handle a particularly high area. If you're talking about where the braces are slightly protruding on the back side the best way to handle stuff like this is with a hand plane. Using a hand plane on MDF is a bit odd, but it does work and will create nice crisp cuts instead of a sander which will dish areas out. If you don't have a hand plane, the next best way would be to use sandpaper with a sanding block - trying to keep the sanding block as flat as possible. This is much more time consuming than a power sander, but won't result in any damage. Lastly, you could use the orbital sander, but be extremely careful. The pads on an orbital sander are slightly soft - so it will round things over and then start to dish out things on the sides of what you're trying to flush trim.

Peter J

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Re: Smoothing joins
« Reply #3 on: 6 Nov 2021, 04:29 pm »
Noah, when you say orbital sander do you mean random orbit or DA? DA is a old term meaning dual action...same as random orbit. I remember the days of strictly orbital sanders and they are mostly lame by comparison for removal of material.

The single biggest thing I'd suggest is a hard pad for your sander. If it's soft or spongey it won't have the plane-ing action you're looking for. I only use soft pads for contoured surfaces. A photo might help, but I'd probably start with 80 grit or so and keep it moving. Dwelling is any one place will have the potential for making a divot.

If your sander has dust collection that will help to remove the debris while sanding. Otherwise it just gets churned around under the pad.

Just had a thought. Depending on finish you intend, it might be easier to use a a long sanding block. Common in the body shop world.

NoahH

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Re: Smoothing joins
« Reply #4 on: 6 Nov 2021, 05:41 pm »
Thanks for the quick advice. First off, when I say 'first baffle' I do mean the whole speaker.

I did mean random orbit for the sander. The advice on a hard pad makes sense - not sure I have one but I can fix that quickly.

A hand block does make sense too. Let me try that as a first pass too.

WGH

Re: Smoothing joins
« Reply #5 on: 6 Nov 2021, 07:25 pm »
Before sanding draw big sweeping "S's" on the surface with a soft pencil, that way you can see where you are sanding so the edge of the sander will be less likely to make a trough about 2" away from the part that sticks up.

Check your progress with a stainless steel straightedge. It is easy to roll over the corner instead of sanding parallel to the cabinet side. 

EdwardT

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Re: Smoothing joins
« Reply #6 on: 7 Nov 2021, 06:07 pm »
A hard sanding block will be your best friend here applied with a light touch and some brand new 120 grit.