[YEEEEGZ]

Word of warning, when flush trimming cabinets, run the router along the grain, not across it at the corners. I was planning to flush trim everything then come through with ½" round over once the corners were clean of overlap, but I missed the mark on clean execution. I have plenty of body filler to fix the spots (more than one), but it was frustrating nonetheless.

Stay strong, my brother.

I remember when I finally finished painting my NX Studio cabinets after a lot of frustration, had them perfect, sanded, clearcoated with my weirdo UV pigments, picked all the bugs out... Finally, done. I took the pair and set them down in my office on a plastic desk mat after a day of them drying so I could measure out the no-rez... Went to pick them up the next day and the whole bottom had sealed to the mat and pealed right up in a humongous strip, all the way to the MDF.

I wanted to big kms right there.

But what does not kill us makes us... Wish we were dead.

You got this, big dawg! Bondo to the rescue, etc.

 

[nlitworld]

Crossovers wired this weekend. Going to set the threaded inserts behind drivers and do some sanding on the glazing putty I applied on the seams. Hard ro make a ton of progress when I've upgraded some other stuff in my system and trying to listen/test that as well.



I know, seen one crossover photo, you've seen them all. They are not nearly as boutique and clean looking as Elon makes, but they'll be more than functional and can easily upgrade parts down the line.

As previously stated, sonicaps in tweeter circuit, miflex bypass, and obbligato silver for woofer cap. Should sound nice for living room secondary system.

Art department still hasn't chosen color, but I'm on vacation in a week and will likely make some sprayouts and choices then.

[nlitworld]

Just a bit of advice when finishing speaker cabinets. If you're using body filler or glazing putty on the seams, apply firmly into seam with as little excess as possible. When sanding, tryntonuse a longer block (11in) to be smooth and sand in diagonal patterns where possible. You should sand until putty is nearly gone and surface feels smooth. Don't sit in one area long as you'll create some bad low spots, so keep moving and come back to a spot from a different angle if needing more. In photo, left side shows before, right side is after.



Also I installed threaded inserts for the driver so as to easily break back into the crossover later. My arms are already tired, but we're making progress today.

[mikela8]

Looking good! 

Curious what kind of threaded inserts you are using?

[nlitworld]

I'll snap a photo in a little bit, but they're just some basic soft wood 8-32 inserts off shamazon or McMaster Carr. You do really need to be careful to not bubble out the mdf so I drilled pilot hole big enough for body of insert and beveled the top to let it dig in and sink a little. I didn't do the best job at making ultra flush, but it'll be fine. Shouldn't need any seam sealer tape to back side of driver unless those stuck out a long ways to prevent a seal.

[YEEEEGZ]

Looking most dapper indeed.

 

[nlitworld]

So the inserts are these. Easily available everywhere, but here's a digikey link

900832-10

[nlitworld]

Small little update and advisory of previous recommended threaded inserts. The inserts have a little bit of a head to them and you have 3 choices you need to decide. If you use them straight up and lightly cinch up, the head sticks up just a smidge and you'll likely need some seam sealer tape around the driver. If you torque them down, the head will likely snap and you can easily flush mount, just hopefully it doesn't strip the wood out. Third option is to make a little recess indent for them to sink into. This would be my recommendation, and 100% not what I actually did. Fourth and last option is just come through and grind them off. I'll be sorting option 2 and 4. Be smart and just kiss the pilot hole with a larger bit and let these recess in.

Crossovers are all wired and ready to rock. Cabinets are now in polyester primer and ready to start sanding, sanding, and more sanding. If you are finishing out speakers to be super smooth, polyester primer is actually a great option, with a couple caveats. It builds like you wouldn't believe and doesn't shrink back like urethane primer. Downside is it usually requires a bigger spray nozzle. I would recommend the Evercoat Feather Fill as that would still work with a standard 1.8mm primer gun. I had a gallon of Evercoat Slick Sand laying around work so that's what I used. Data sheet says to use a 2.0mm nozzle and I would absolutely agree. Coverage on these is about 8oz per speaker per coat and while they recommend 2-3 coats, I went 4 because I knew the first one would absorb into mdf. Last bit of advice, wear old, crappy shoes. This stuff gets so sticky on the floor, you will literally stick in place.  Pausing this afternoon for a little to listen to some music, but sanding starts after that.


*obligatory progress photo to prove it happened*

[Peter J]

 Oh, I wish I had your cache of primer and paint!
  FWIW, I've all but given up on screw-in inserts on MDF and done some test-to-failure research on the epoxy-in method I showed in link below. The MDF fails before anything else and provides plenty of strength for the task at hand. Trust me...

Anxious to see how you finish these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCRc_XyQidw&list=PLfoEZ4fQRT-vlDVUB_kareRxfCWQWur3q&index=1

[nlitworld]

Yep, those inserts were what I used on my nx-studios and I like them better. These ones bite in real well, but the caveats make them more of a pain. Next speaker build we're back to glue in like you showed. I should listen to the teacher when they explain things the first time. Lol.

And yeah, I've got a little bit of paint around...  Don't tell the fire marshall.

[BrandonB]

Yep, those inserts were what I used on my nx-studios and I like them better. These ones bite in real well, but the caveats make them more of a pain. Next speaker build we're back to glue in like you showed. I should listen to the teacher when they explain things the first time. Lol.

And yeah, I've got a little bit of paint around...  Don't tell the fire marshall.

The first thing I thought was you need more paint.  Then read your comment about you have a little paint....lol

[mikela8]

I used T-nuts on my Statements.  I made sure and clean them with alcohol before applying the epoxy.

https://www.htguide.com/forum/mission-possible-diy/build-stories/29468-mike-s-lcr-statement-build#post514056

[nlitworld]

Well as luck would have it, polyester primer is awesome and completely filled the amount to flush those inserts . I knew it would get a lot of build, but that's a lot, a lot. Sanded all faces smooth yesterday evening and chasing my couple dinged corners with some more putty to where I don't have a lazy-eye looking scenario. Will sand all corners and edges today, and possibly be into paint this weekend. 🤞 Oh happy day.

[CopperFoil]

Awesome.

Wait until you hear how coherent they are.

[nlitworld]

Awesome.

Wait until you hear how coherent they are.

  If they make my living room setup even half as good as the NX-Studios in my main system, I'll be more than happy.

Also forgot to mention these will be paired with an existing AV123 X-CS that already had the T26 Encore tweeter swap. One day I'll need to double check with Danny on the crossover tweak required and update if it wasn't already. Purchased used a year or two back but hadn't torn into that crossover yet.