[Keithh]

Mike,

Peter is right. The v-groove bit has no bearing and will cut any radius right down to the point. A 45 chamfer has a 1/2" bearing
so a 1/4" radius is the smallest it can follow. The bit I have will cut up to a 1" thick piece. You could do a thicker baffle using both a V-groove
 and a Chamfer bit. You could use the V-groove bit to make the inner baffle and a template at the same time and then use the template
and a 45 chamfer to cut the outer baffle piece and laminate them together. Hard but could yield fantastic results.

It would be interesting to hear from Danny if there was any difference between the test baffle and the flat pack for the Wedgies.
While the flat pack was definitely done with a v-groove bit, the test baffle looks like it was done with a 45 chamfer bit which
make cutting the waveguide extremely easy.

[jparkhur]

I used a 3/8 straight but when I made the original boards.   And a circle hug from Madisound.

[Keithh]

My Wedgies have been up and running since July but I just got around to making the sub amp boxes a
few weeks ago. I was about to start wiring them up in June when my wife knocked one of the Wedgies off
the base and damaged the top and scratched up the veneer.

My original goal with these was just to make them look better as I never thought they would be a nice looking
speaker from a finishing standpoint. I just wanted back as soon as possible so I cut corners. But they were coming
out much nicer than expected so I went back and did a better job with them.

I had originally just put a piece of veneer on, put a few coats of lacquer it and painted them. They looked much better
but compared to the base with about 30 coats of lacquer it didn't look as nice. Also the sharp corners on the veneer
did not go with all the rounded edges on the rest of the speaker.

To make a nicer looking seam where the veneer met the paint, I made a template, rounded off the corners and cut a
groove around the edge of the veneer with a 1/8" straight bit. That made all the difference. Fixed the rest of the damage, put about 15 more coats
of lacquer on and repainted them.

This is the first version




This is it with the rounded corners. The 1/8" groove makes a much cleaner and nicer looking seam and the
rounded corners match the rest of the speaker.




Quickly built up some matching sub amp boxes a few weeks ago and they are now done.










They came out much nicer than I ever hoped for. They sound incredible, but everyone already knows that.
I had been listening to my X-statiks while I rebuilt the Wedgies, and as much as I love my X-statiks, hearing the
Wedgies again was another jaw dropping experience. They are in just a whole different ballpark.

[mlundy57]

Artiest at work. Very nice 

Mike

[Keithh]

Hope this helps someone assembling sub amp boxes. I have been listening to my Wedgies for a
few months and everything was working fine. When I installed the amps in the boxes I had just built,
there was a terrible hum in one sub. Checked everything and everything seemed fine, until I noticed
that the sub wiring in one box came in near the AC wiring and maybe when I installed the amp, the sub wiring might
have been pushed up against the AC wiring. So I attached the speaker and servo wiring to the inside front
of the cabinet so it could not get near the AC when the amp was installed in the cabinet. Problem solved and no hum now.

[jeffreybehr]

Keith, could you pls post more pics of your subamp boxes?  I'm intrigued that any such box could look as good as yours.  My subamp bases for my Super-7s are still basic and original.

[AlexH]

WOW!!!. I know what kind of work goes into something like this. Just incredible.

[Ngoliath]

These look amazing! I’d love to hear these things. I may put in my queue and try to build a pair, if I can make the time.