[pstrisik]

I have been working with our favorite master designer and craftsman for a while now, upgrading my SAMs to SAMHO's.  I also added outriggers with Herbies giant threaded stud gliders as feet.  At long last, the project is complete!  I hope you will enjoy with me. 

Some long-time members here will recall my original brainstorming and result integrating standard SAMs with, custom built cabinets by Louis, Rythmik 8" servo woofers with Rythmik plate amp.  I still run a pair of Rythmik F12 subs as well.  Here's the link to my original thread: https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=134489.0.

I will link relevant sites for the various primary components and then add some photos.  But, first, I have to say that SAM to SAMHO is more than I expected.  I was nervous making the change since the SAMs sounded wonderful and I didn't want to lose that.  But after some breaking in of the new helper drivers (I transferred over the original alnico drivers, Rythmik components, and bases to the new cabinets), they are sounding better and better.  It took a bit for those new drivers to loosen up and offer increasingly articulate bass.  And they produce a surprising amount of bass for their size.  Overall presentation of the sound is bigger, output is greater (running at lower volume settings now), and dynamics are more vivid.  All of this makes for a very "alive" feeling.  Not one of the big endorsers of many esoteric tweaks, I have to admit that the Herbie's gliders really help with transparency and articulation at higher frequencies, too.

Louis was wonderful, as always, with advice and generosity.  His results are amazing, both in sound and aesthetics!  I love how he runs the grain continuous between the monitors and woofer cabs.

Components:

• SAMHO, of course (https://omegaloudspeakers.com/collections/monitor-speakers/products/super-alnico-high-output-monitor?variant=32172424908)
• Rythmik mid bass woofer - CI kit M7 (http://www.rythmikaudio.com/DS800ci.html)
• Latest of Louis' preferred damping material
• Supra internal wiring with furutech disconnects
• Cardas CCGG L Binding Post - gold plated copper (http://cardas.com/ccgg_l.php)
• Herbie's fat dots between monitor and woofer (they are not attached) (https://herbiesaudiolab.com/collections/component-isolation/products/soft-fat-dot?variant=12645105434679)
• OregonDV - Soundocity outrigger kit (just bars and knobs) (https://soundocity.com/product-category/several-different-versions-of-soundocity-outriggers/)
• Herbie's threaded stud gliders - "giant" version (https://herbiesaudiolab.com/products/threaded-stud-glider?variant=12651506532407)
• The stone tops are actually fossilized petrified wood.  Heavy like granite.  Remnants cut and polished by local countertop guy.
  
• Cables I assembled from that vintage WE14GA tinned, stranded copper wire and 1877 gold plated copper locking bananas (https://www.partsconnexion.com/1877PH-73649.html)

Photos (please don't quote the photos in replies - thx):














. .  .  .  .............Pete

[poseidonsvoice]

Pete,

Absolutely D-Y-N-O-M-I-T-E! Welcome to the world of low frequency production 

Thanks for sharing,

Anand.

[pstrisik]

Pete,

Absolutely D-Y-N-O-M-I-T-E! Welcome to the world of low frequency production 

Thanks for sharing,

Anand.

Thanks.  The powered woofers really helped with the SAMs.  It wouldn't be a huge loss, sound wise, without them now with the HO's though.  But they still add, particularly to the midrange articulation even more than to the mid-bass.  It must be added harmonics or something  .  And they are part of the physical design regardless.

[RDavidson]

Those look awesome! I bet they sound fantastic.

[brj]

That looks really sharp, and I'm assuming that the sound is leaving you grinning uncontrollably!

Louis did nice work matching the veneer from the mains down to the subs.  Great detail!

Regardless of one's speakers, more subs helps mitigate room modes.  If I've learned one thing in audio, it's that the more I address the room, the better my speakers sound - regardless of model!  If you have the flexibility, you may want to consider whether moving the F12s around the room a bit can even out your bass even more.  After you just enjoy your system for a while, of course!

(I have a similar 'stack' approach with my mains sitting on top of subs utilizing opposed 8" Rythmik drivers.  In my case, Robert Herbelin recommended five Big Fat Dots to separate them, though I admit that I'd prefer the look of a smaller reveal as enabled by thinner Dots than my 1/4" Fat Dots.  I replaced my Herbie's sliders with another product, but like you, I was amazed at the difference obtained by isolating the stack from my suspended wood floor.)

By "Furutech disconnects", are you referring to the FT-210 tab style disconnects?  I've looked those up online several times but never quite pulled the trigger.  (My drivers are well suited for their application, but the spring clips they use are not exactly the best mechanical connection ever invented.)

Where in the world did you source pieces of petrified wood that large?

Again, nice job!

[pstrisik]

That looks really sharp, and I'm assuming that the sound is leaving you grinning uncontrollably!

Yes, that has certainly happened!

Louis did nice work matching the veneer from the mains down to the subs.  Great detail!

Regardless of one's speakers, more subs helps mitigate room modes.  If I've learned one thing in audio, it's that the more I address the room, the better my speakers sound - regardless of model!  If you have the flexibility, you may want to consider whether moving the F12s around the room a bit can even out your bass even more.  After you just enjoy your system for a while, of course!

I'm not going to get into moving them.  I still need to do the phase control adjustment (after having the F12's for about three years!).  They sound so good I haven't gotten up the motivation.  I actually run them in stereo directly off the DAC which controls the volume.  And I have a fair amount of room treatment with all of the first reflections taken care of.

(I have a similar 'stack' approach with my mains sitting on top of subs utilizing opposed 8" Rythmik drivers.  In my case, Robert Herbelin recommended five Big Fat Dots to separate them, though I admit that I'd prefer the look of a smaller reveal as enabled by thinner Dots than my 1/4" Fat Dots.  I replaced my Herbie's sliders with another product, but like you, I was amazed at the difference obtained by isolating the stack from my suspended wood floor.)

I have nine thin dots between the monitor and woofer on each side (actually, eight on the left cuz I lost one  )  I already had them from previous equipment.  I don't think I would want a bigger gap either.  But I figure nine dots under the monitor and giant sliders under everything should be sufficient.

By "Furutech disconnects", are you referring to the FT-210 tab style disconnects?  I've looked those up online several times but never quite pulled the trigger.  (My drivers are well suited for their application, but the spring clips they use are not exactly the best mechanical connection ever invented.)

Right.  Might have been overkill, but we were doing it up, so....  They weren't that expensive.

Where in the world did you source pieces of petrified wood that large?

The remnant slab he cut them from was about 3' x 4'.  The original, probably much larger.  The whole thing isn't petrified wood.  That's why I called it "fossilized."  Not sure that is scientifically accurate.  You can see pieces of the wood embedded in the stone, which I assume is naturally compressed and hardened sediment.

Again, nice job!

 

[Canada Rob]

Peter,
These are some of the nicest work I've seen from Louis.  Enjoy! 

[pstrisik]

Peter,
These are some of the nicest work I've seen from Louis.  Enjoy! 

Thanks Rob

[Jonathon Janusz]

Peter,

I know I'm just adding on when I say congratulations on a great looking setup!  I've said it before, but it is really cool to see folks find a core concept that they enjoy enough to stick with, then slowly watch it evolve into a truly special system as it evolves over time.

I'm curious to know, as I don't remember reading it in your original build thread you linked to, if your monitors are of different dimensions than the stock models on Omega's website to make front baffle size/space for the 8" sub drivers, or if the front baffle of the stock monitor configuration is wide enough on its own to make that work?

Thanks!

Jon

[pstrisik]

Peter,

I know I'm just adding on when I say congratulations on a great looking setup!  I've said it before, but it is really cool to see folks find a core concept that they enjoy enough to stick with, then slowly watch it evolve into a truly special system as it evolves over time.

I'm curious to know, as I don't remember reading it in your original build thread you linked to, if your monitors are of different dimensions than the stock models on Omega's website to make front baffle size/space for the 8" sub drivers, or if the front baffle of the stock monitor configuration is wide enough on its own to make that work?

Thanks!

Jon

Thanks for your kind words!

My new SAMHOs are 11w x 14d x 22h.  The SAMs they replace were 11 x 14 x 20.

The dimensions of the SAMs were the same as his usual production.  The current HOs are 10 x 14 x 24.  He made them to fit the footprint of what I had before so the height is 2" shorter.  We did this since I was reusing the black bases and the stone tops.  I like it that way.  Allows for a slight tilt up and, overall, not too imposing.  Two inches isn't that much, but it would make a difference in those respects.

If one wanted to do the same thing with the 10 x 14 footprint, it would likely fit, but obviously more tightly. 

........Pete

[pstrisik]

A little more than a month in.  This is what I just wrote to Louis:

Just want to let you know that I am past break in period and everything is wonderful.  I am very happy with the HO’s after break in, experimenting with the port open/close (it’s staying closed), and tweaking integration of the bass and via tube choice. 

A bonus is an apparent slowing or even ending of my tube obsession.  Always looking to see if the next one is better.  I’ve been coming back to the same combo over and over the past month or two, so I’m sticking with what I’ve got.  I think the Omegas have helped me to get there (finally!).  Interestingly, I’ve settled on all Russian tubes.  This is great as they are less expensive.  Winged =C= 6p3s (6L6 equivalent), Voskhod “Rocket” 70’s 6n23p (6922 family), and Winged =C= 5c3s (5U4 equivalent), for 8-10 wpc.

It's one of those times when I feel completely satisfied.  Not on the hunt at all.  I hope it lasts!   

[FullRangeMan]

Great system Peter, congratulations.