[Captainhemo]

I'm thinking of using  some of the 3m Di-noc Carbon Fiber wrap in an upcoming  project. I've never used this stuff before but have seen some decent results and would like to give it a go. If I'm only  using it for areas of a cabinet (not the entire piece) , what is the best way of transitining to paint, say for example from a panel with the wrap to another panel at 90 degrees  that is painted?
 I was thinking of possibly cutting a small "V" groove at transition point and having the paint/wrap met  there. Or, is it better to just cut a very small slot   and have the vinyl wrap tuck into that ?

Also wondering a bit about the edges and hwo well the wrap adheres. Seen a couple videos where guys say they use an adhesion promoter at the edges, have  any of you guys who have used the wrap had to do anything special  at the edges where the wrap is trimmed off ?

Appreciate any  ideas/suggstions

jay

[mlundy57]

Jay,

Not sure if it was the same wrap but I recently tried using a PSA backed faux carbon fiber vinyl wrap and had a number of issues with it.

I was very thin so even the smallest bit of dust could be felt as a bump through the wrap. So be sure and wipe the surface down thoroughly and if you are wrapping around a corner, rewipe the side that was down before letting the wrap touch it.  Also, be careful not to let it bunch even a little.

On the good side, the stuff I used could be peeled back to some extent and smoothed back out. As a matter of fact, when I finally gave up and removed it the wrap peeled off fairly easily.

Which brings up the corner issue. They did not want to stay stuck. Some type of edge molding would need to be applied to cover the seam.

I ended up using a faux carbon fiber Tolex vinyl.  This gets applied with contact cement. It wasn't as shiny as the other material but it was a lot tougher and stayed stuck. The transitions at 90 degree edges was still not as finished looking as wood veneer would be but overall it lo0ked pretty good.  And the edges were firmly adhered.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Thanks Mike apprecciate the  info although it isn't exactly encouraging. I don't play nice with contact cement nor does it play nice with me  so that really isn't   a viable option unless I just use it on te  problem edges to help secure them.
I have heard that the "other"  vinyls are not  near as thick or as easy to work with as the  3M, that could be  just hype or possibly there is some truth to it, hopefully we'll get some more feedback from  folks who  have used it.

Was really hoping to be able to get a nice  edge cut  on the stuff (DiNoc) where  my sub side panels roundover then  meet  the rebbet for the inlaid grill frames

Maybe I'll order a little sample of the stuff (1 sq ft) and  mess around with it a bit

jay

[corndog71]

Alsacorp makes some pretty cool paints and wraps and other stuff you can experiment with.

[hi5harry]

Your more ambitious than I was. I just did carbon fiber recessed panels.

[ebag4]

Hey Jay.  I'm certainly no expert but I did just complete my wedge bass units with paint and vinyl wrap.  The wrap I used was 3M 1080 series.  It worked out pretty well.  If you are transitioning corners in more than 2 planes I would highly recommend getting enough to play with and get a little experience with it.  I learn more each time I use it.

Regarding the adhesion promoter, I used it on my entire project.  My best results were achieved when I let it dry for 24 hrs.  You don't need much, a little goes a long way.  I picked up the  8oz 3M adhesion promoter, did an amp base twice and the wedge bass units and still have a half can left over, I appilied it with a foam brush.

I have the wrap bumping right up against the side of the red board on the subs.  I would recommend having some kind of transition between the paint and the wrap, but that is a preference and certainly not a requirement.

Mike is correct, the vinyl doesn't hide any surface imperfections, so you will want to prep as if you are painting.

I'll be happy to answer any questions you have if I can.  I would say go for it.  It is not too expensive, reversible, and I think it looks pretty good.

Best,
Ed

Edit: I played with the vinyl into the groove, in fact the subs have a small reveal all the way around the bottom where the base meets it (except for the front board which meets the base directly).  I think you will find when using the adhesion promoter the edges will stick fine assuming a smooth surface.  Although I didn't have a problem with the primer on the subs (they had been drying for a number of weeks) and as noted, I let the adhesion promoter dry for about 24 hrs, I would recommend applying the adhesion promoter directly to the mdf assuming that is what you're using.

[mlundy57]

Here's how the Tolex I used came out:






Mike

[ebag4]

Looks pretty good from here Mike!

Best
Ed

[mlundy57]

Looks pretty good from here Mike!

Best
Ed

Thanks Ed. That was the second type I used. Tolex is much thicker than the thin wraps. It's the stuff a lot of guitar amps are covered with.

How do you wrap in more than two planes?

Mike

[ebag4]

Thanks Ed. That was the second type I used. Tolex is much thicker than the thin wraps. It's the stuff a lot of guitar amps are covered with.

How do you wrap in more than two planes?

Mike

For boxlike corners you have to cut and match.  For smaller areas you can heat and stretch the material.

Best,
Ed

[mlundy57]

For boxlike corners you have to cut and match.  For smaller areas you can heat and stretch the material.

Best,
Ed

What do you heat it with? I tried my heat gun and it melted the wrap. 

Mike

[ebag4]

What do you heat it with? I tried my heat gun and it melted the wrap. 

Mike

I used my heat gun on low, I used a cloth to push down in the heated area, you have to be careful not to melt it.

Best,
Ed

[Captainhemo]

Lots of good  info guys
How much thicker was the tolex Mike ?  It looks pretty   good in  your photos, my concern really is with the  contact cement. I'd be doing a pretty large panel  (approx 41 x 16 with roundovers on the front/rearedges) , not sure I'm comfortable  with the  immediacy  of cc.

Regarding the heat,  I've watched a few vids on Youtube  of guys installing the wrap and notice they are always  really quick  with the heat guns, basically on then off so  I can tell it is pretty delicate stuff.

Ed, I'd only be  going over a roundover in one direction, basically a side  to a front or rear edge.
If you have a chance, could you post a close up of the transition between your wrap and the paint  ?

Your more ambitious than I was. I just did carbon fiber recessed panels.

 Cool

jay

[ebag4]

Ed, I'd only be  going over a roundover in one direction, basically a side  to a front or rear edge.
If you have a chance, could you post a close up of the transition between your wrap and the paint  ?

 Cool

jay

Here you go Jay:







Best,
Ed

[mlundy57]

Lots of good  info guys
How much thicker was the tolex Mike ?  It looks pretty   good in  your photos, my concern really is with the  contact cement. I'd be doing a pretty large panel  (approx 41 x 16 with roundovers on the front/rearedges) , not sure I'm comfortable  with the  immediacy  of cc.

Regarding the heat,  I've watched a few vids on Youtube  of guys installing the wrap and notice they are always  really quick  with the heat guns, basically on then off so  I can tell it is pretty delicate stuff.

Ed, I'd only be  going over a roundover in one direction, basically a side  to a front or rear edge.
If you have a chance, could you post a close up of the transition between your wrap and the paint  ?

 Cool

jay

Jay,

The Tolex was probably two to three times thicker than the wrap. The recommended adhesive is 3M Super 77 Spray adhesive (or equivalent). That's what I used for the entire cabinet but I had to go back and use a brush on contact cement on the pieces that folded into the driver cavities after the fact.

I wrapped each cabinet with one big piece going around all four sides. to keep the contact cement from grabbing before I wanted it to I put wax paper over the cabinet before putting on the Tolex. Then I pulled the wax paper out as I went. Kind of like peeling back PSA lining as you go. I applied the adhesive to a side and it's corresponding piece of Tolex one side at a time. I used newspaper and masking tape for each application to make sure I didn't get adhesive where I didn't want it.

Then cut out the openings and glued down the edges. Finally I glued a separate piece on the top.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

That really helps show how thin that material actually is Ed, also shows you get a pretty  dam good  edge on it, appreciate the pics.

Mike,  I'm famaliar with the  3M  Super 77, have used it a number of times. You too did a great job of applying that Tolex
I'm actually considering  trying this stuff.... guess I'd better be sure  as there will be no going back once the spray adhesive is sprayed down !! I'd like to do the side panels of my sloped  subs and as mentioned,  cut a slot right where the top and side panel meet so that the  material can  tuck into it and make the top  appear  like it is  "ontop" of the  CF side panels.. The Tolex would need to wrap around the front/rear  radius to the edge of the grills. I'd be painting the grill recess's, brace fronts, tops , and basess all the same color. 
A little worried about tucking that material into a slot  when it bends around the radius on the front/rear edge. The vinyl wrap Ed used might be better for that particular  part of the job, but the Tolex wold obviouosly seem to be  somewhat tougher, not so fragile..   tough call....

jay

[hi5harry]

Yes, but make sure your work " cricket approved"