I checked and discovered that I rarely play at 95 Db peaks. As a matter of fact, I found that trying to play at 105 Db peaks was uncomfortable. Hooking up my old Knight scope proved I need very little power at all. With my efficient speakers, and allowing for a small amount of clipping, 1-3 WPC is plenty. I'm firmly in Roger's camp.
Steve
Steve, Thanks and congrats for being the first person in this discussion to
actually measure what is going into the speaker. What was the peak voltage you measured at your listening level and what was your "clip" voltage? Can you also tell us what your speaker sensitivity is, your listening distance and average SPL level?
What Steve did is the most realistic and accurate way to determine what you need. Who cares what your listening level is or speaker sensitivity. Now Steve knows what voltage he needs and that's that. He can also measure the current with the scope or meter or calculate it from the impedance curve of the speaker.
The smallest OTL I am making, and soon to offer to this group first, can supply 1 amp of current into any load from zero to 16 ohms and close to 1 amp all the way up to 32 ohms. As the load gets above 32 ohms the current falls off a little. From Steve's statement of 1 to 3 watts and assuming a 8 ohm speaker he can get 8 volts peak with the one amp of current. That's well within his 3 watt upper limit. Unlike most other OTLs of the Futterman lineage this one has triode connected output tubes. Futterman's first amps were triode output but he never sold those commercially. Starting with the first commercial amp, the Harvard Electronics H-3a he was using pentodes in order to get high power. In addition to the sonic advantage of triodes the amplifier is simpler and more reliable.
Although the power is interesting and is mentioned in almost every post, it's not what is most important. We don't listen to watts, we listen to SPL. Thinking of light bulbs for instance do we buy watts or lumens? We really need to look at the lumens because the watts don't tell us how much light we are going to get.
All amplifiers act differently when driving a speaker and one should know a few things. For instance many Electrostatics go down to 1 ohm at high frequencies and need a fair amount of voltage at the same time. The Beveridge ESL amplifier produced 1500 Volt-amps (kinda like watts) and I measured 1500 VA while playing trumpet music at full output which for the 2-SW speaker was about 100 dB. Roger Sanders makes an enormous solid state amp for his ESLs for the same reason. You need a big one for the Martin Logans too. You don't need a very big one for the QUADS or my ESL as these speakers are nominally 8 ohms with a 4 ohm minimum.
People who know QUADS and don't want to burn them up use a suitable amplifier. The original QUAD amp was 15 watts as I recall and generally wired for 16 ohms. When all is said and done what the QUAD 57 wants is about 30 volts peak which is about what and RM-10 puts out of its 8 ohm tap. The RM-10 has become very popular among QUAD owners for that reason as it clips at just the right voltage to get the 57s up to full level and protect them at the same time without a clamp. The QUAD 63s want about 50 volts peak. So if i put my scope on the speaker terminals and get those peak numbers there is nothing more to safely get. In fact the 63 comes with a voltage clamp built in and many have added a clamp to the 57s to protect them. What this clamp does is essentially short out the amplifier above those voltages. A good analogy would be if you were driving along the freeway at 65 MPH and you wanted to drive at 55 you could leave the gas where it was and just use the brakes to hold you at 55. Now that would be a very bad thing for your engine, transmission and brakes. But essentialy that is what you do when you overdrive a QUAD. Once you reach the clamp voltage any extra voltage just heats up the clamp and your amplifier. Of course cone speakers can do this too by running out of excursion or with dynamic compression effects which DYNAUDIO has often pointed out in its advertising. So if you are a person who really likes high levels and headroom the speaker is just as important as the amplifier, certainly not enough is said about this. Just because your speaker says it can handle 100 or 300 watts that doesn't mean it is going to accurately reproduce it. Very few companies and no reviews I have seen show the effects of dynamic compression... Kudos to DYNAUDIO for doing so.. Of course they did it because they could.
I have to disagree with the posting that most speakers today are in the low 80 SPL for 1 watt. In my reading I see most conventional speakers in the high 80's. I think speaker sensitivity has improved over the years as driver manufacturers have learned how to make light cones sound good. I thank them for that because I can make a better sounding small amplifier than a large one and it costs less to own and operate. I note that most Wilson speakers are over 90 dB and his big ones are 93.5. Isn't it interesting that one of the biggest, heaviest most expensive speakers in the world is that efficient with a minimum recommended amplifier power of just 7 watts. Is Wilson trying to tell us something about small amplifiers sounding good?
I think we have come a long way from what impressed me in 1973 when I met my partner in what became Audio Art. He had put together his dream system. It was a pair of the big Magnepan Tympani 3's, thats 4 bass panels in the center and two midrange-tweeters on each side, 8 panels total. We drove it with a Phase Linear 700 on the bottom, Ampzilla (built from kit) on the mid and one of my early 100 watt transistor amps on the top. The crossover was a tube unit supplied by Audio Research (who was the sole supplier of the Tympani speakers). It was quite something for its time.