[harley52]

 Can you guys/girls give an answer to this:

 What would be the ramifications of purchasing a sub with a 12" driver and one with an 8" driver from the same company and the same line of subs. Instead of buying two larger subs (big bucks), why not a large and a small one for the reason of smoothing out the FR in room?
 I realize they each have a different output capability, but the second sub is only for smoothing. If I made this a confusing question just let me know and I'll try different wording.

Thanks to all.

[poseidonsvoice]

There is nothing wrong with doing that. Several of us do already. What you need though is a mic, REW, and time. Without measurements, it's a losing battle, and you are traveling blind. If you look in my systems page, you'll see the advantages of such. 2 subs are a good start, 3 is better and 4 is sublime 

Best,
Anand.

[Danny Richie]

Can you guys/girls give an answer to this:

 What would be the ramifications of purchasing a sub with a 12" driver and one with an 8" driver from the same company and the same line of subs. Instead of buying two larger subs (big bucks), why not a large and a small one for the reason of smoothing out the FR in room?
 I realize they each have a different output capability, but the second sub is only for smoothing. If I made this a confusing question just let me know and I'll try different wording.

Thanks to all.

Most room related issues pop up in the 200Hz region and down. And most speakers will play to a -3db in the 40Hz to 60Hz region. So true sub crossover points (-6db down points) are usually in the 30Hz to 55Hz range. In those ranges you usually can't create a dip and a peak. You usually get one or the other. The controls on our serve subs have a one band EQ that will allow you to correct for a peak or a dip. That usually covers it.

Now if you have separate control over a mid-bass driver.... Like if you were using some of our servo controlled 8" subs to play up to 200Hz. Then you could roll them off early and allow some of our 12" servo subs to cover from there down to the teens. That would give you a lot of flexibility to smooth out the room response.

Rear subs running out of phase from the front subs can also really help smooth out room loading.

A good measuring system will really be useful when you get into this level of performance. Highly recommended.

[thirdeye]

When you say run 2 subs in the rear of the room out of phase to 2 front subs are you saying to run the (180 degree) knob's on the amps opposite of the (180 degree) knob's on the front sub amps? Or are you saying to literally run the RCA connectors in reverse putting the hot to the negative vice verse? Or finally in the case of using the speaker line levels connect in reverse as well?

Thanks

[Danny Richie]

When you say run 2 subs in the rear of the room out of phase to 2 front subs are you saying to run the (180 degree) knob's on the amps opposite of the (180 degree) knob's on the front sub amps? Or are you saying to literally run the RCA connectors in reverse putting the hot to the negative vice verse? Or finally in the case of using the speaker line levels connect in reverse as well?

Thanks

It means that you turn your phase control the opposite way or 180 degrees out of phase. Of coarse which way they are facing has an effect as well.

Basically when the ones in the front are moving in a particular direction then you want the ones in the rear doing so as well. Or push and pull...