[Captainhemo]

Hey all.... firtst pst here
I'm  thinkng of building a pair of A/V3's ,  I hve a couple of newbie questiions I hope someone don't mind answering.

a.  Thes will only be approx 11" from the wall so I'm assuming I should  vent them through the front by  omiting "brace c" and reversing  the braces that follow.  I will be running a sub with these so I'm not  hugely concerned with the bottom end but I assume front  vents would be the right choice ?
 
2.  In what order does everyone assemble the cabinets.   I'm  just curios as to  the easiest way to assemble the boxes with all the bracing that makes up the  transmission line.  Top, back, 1 side  then  all the braces,  Once it's all square install the other side and base.  Button it all up  witht the front.   Would this be the best way to go or is there a  better way ?

3. I think shipping "no rez" to Canada is going to be way to expensive.  I haven't found a source for  either "no rez" or " BH5"   in Canada. I'm thiniking of using the stick on  lino and getting some  1" open cell foam.  Is there any  certain type of faom I'm looking for besides it being open cell ?
I was looking at this stuff http://www.thefoamfactory.com/opencellfoam/acoustic.html.  Would this be ok ? I may also check out  some of the local sources and see what they've got

I'm not sure3 how I'll finish  the cabinets yet..  I've never done any veneering so I may just stick with a spray on finish.

Love the forum, it's a great source of info.  Some gret build threads !
TIA

-captainhemo

[HT cOz]

Hello and welcome. Where in Canada?

[Captainhemo]

Hey 
I'm in Kelowna BC

[HT cOz]

Good to know your location.

I had never built any speakers before my GR build. I think veneers are 100 times easier than trying to paint. Check my speaker build gallery. It will give you a pretty good idea what is involved. I can give you a summary if it would help.

[rajesh]

I think shipping "no rez" to Canada is going to be way to expensive.  I haven't found a source for  either "no rez" or " BH5"   in Canada. I'm thiniking of using the stick on  lino and getting some  1" open cell foam.  Is there any  certain type of faom I'm looking for besides it being open cell ?
I was looking at this stuff http://www.thefoamfactory.com/opencellfoam/acoustic.html.  Would this be ok ? I may also check out  some of the local sources and see what they've got

Hey Capt, I'm awaiting XLS & XCS Encore, AV1RS surrounds & Rhythmik Servo sub kits in a group buy that I had organised from India.

Yep, even I thought getting No Rez all the way to India would be expensive.

I've kind of figured out what to do. Buy some bitumen sheets to affix to the cabinets from inside to reduce resonances. To reduce standing waves inside the cabinets, glasswool would be very effective.

[Captainhemo]

HT Coz , nice buiild.  They turned out awesome.  A summary would be cool if you've got one... it all helps.
When I built my sub ( CSS quartet 10) I actually finished the enclosure with spray-on bed liner.  I got this idea from another thread .  I was actually pretty happy with the result.  I don't mind black so this eemed like a good thing to try

Rajesh,  it sounds like you are going to be busy.  I bet you can't wait to hear your new speakers when they are all done.
I think I am still leaning towards using stick on lino tiles and then foam over that.     Probably fiberglass for the fill

[Danny Richie]

Hey Captainhemo, Welcome to AC.

If you are going to place them that close to the wall the flip flopping the transmission line to exit out the front is a good idea.

I typically assemble the four sides and back of the cabinet then install all of the braces and layers of the transmission line. Then put the front on last.

And yes, you can DIY something similar to No Rez and get about 70% or so of the effectiveness. 80% on a really good effort. And you can do that for less cash outlay, but considerably more time outlay. There is a thread on it here on AC somewhere. 

[Captainhemo]

I typically assemble the four sides and back of the cabinet then install all of the braces and layers of the transmission line. Then put the front on last.

I thought this at first but then wodered if I'd be able to get enogh glue in between the sides and the bracing/TL  to get a secure bond. I guess knowing you do it this way means it can be done

And yes, you can DIY something similar to No Rez and get about 70% or so of the effectiveness. 80% on a really good effort. And you can do that for less cash outlay, but considerably more time outlay. There is a thread on it here on AC somewhere.

When I actually place the order I'll get you to give me a shipping rate both with and without the no rez.
I was reading some of that thread earlier today.

Was also reading your "best deal " thread and came across the  X MTM Encores which are now confusing me as to which way to go.  ( I asked about  this  in that thread)
Thanks for the help,  it is really appreciated

[rajesh]

Rajesh,  it sounds like you are going to be busy.  I bet you can't wait to hear your new speakers when they are all done.

I'm sure they would sound very good but I can't seem to get over my Cadence Aristas for stereo listening. I was driving them with Tube pre and SS Power combo but I was mesmerised by the way they sounded with a relatively puny Cayene MT 35 of my friend who brought it over to my place. Post that experience, I'm on the lookout for a good tube amp.

[persisting1]

I'm sure they would sound very good but I can't seem to get over my Cadence Aristas for stereo listening. I was driving them with Tube pre and SS Power combo but I was mesmerised by the way they sounded with a relatively puny Cayene MT 35 of my friend who brought it over to my place. Post that experience, I'm on the lookout for a good tube amp.

Those Cadence Aristas look very intriguing. I hope they sound better than your build, because the Aristas are not cheap   

[rajesh]

Those Cadence Aristas look very intriguing. I hope they sound better than your build, because the Aristas are not cheap

Thanks buddy, they are ESL hybrid floor standers and are in a different league. A new pair sets you back by about 4K. The GR kit would be used purely for HT, essentially for my kids and wifey.

[lacro]

Good to know your location.

I had never built any speakers before my GR build. I think veneers are 100 times easier than trying to paint. Check my speaker build gallery. It will give you a pretty good idea what is involved. I can give you a summary if it would help.

HT COZ, Nice work. I may have to try veneer on my X-LS Encore build. I would also like to see your summary. A few questions if you don't mind: What is the $25 cool tool, and how did you (or anybody) trim the veneer around the tweeter counterbore?

Larry

[django11]

Not HTc0z but the tool is a cheap knock off of a Fein Multimaster (google it), quite a few companies make them now.  You could do the veneer in the hole with a router with a straight cutter which has a smaller bearing guide, or wait til the box is veneered before making the driver holes with a plunge router and Jasper circle cutting guide...

[lacro]

Not HTc0z but the tool is a cheap knock off of a Fein Multimaster (google it), quite a few companies make them now.  You could do the veneer in the hole with a router with a straight cutter which has a smaller bearing guide, or wait til the box is veneered before making the driver holes with a plunge router and Jasper circle cutting guide...

Thanks for the info, django11
 Now I know what the tool is  As far as the router bit with a smaller bearing, I don't know of any bottom bearing router bits that won't raise the cutter above the shallow counter bore? The bearing plus the socket head cap screw that holds it on are thicker than the counter bore depth.
 I have already cut the pieces, so doing it after veneering is not an option.

Thanks,
Larry

[django11]

Couldn't you use one of these?