[OldAnalogue]

OK, I posted this in the wrong circle initially, so having been pointed in the right direction, I thought I'd try again.
Thanks for the help and suggestions, nlitworld.
So, I have a pair of DM3s that were bought new by my great uncle Jack, and found their way to me, via my dad. We had them in the family home for a long time, but my mum would only have them lying on their sides, with lamps on top, as they were 'far too big', and eventually, even that was unacceptable, so I inherited them.
I came across the G-Research youtube channel a while back, and have been thoroughly enjoying being educated in the art of speaker and crossover design by Danny, so much so that I decided to do a bit of upgrading myself. I've bought two OE replacement woofers, as the originals have some perishing around the cone, as well as replacement capacitors for the crossovers (Jansen Audio standard z-caps and cross-caps).
I have also been toying with the idea of installing tube connectors, but was wondering how I would go about replicating the binding post connection, which connects directly to the circuit board of the crossover. I've never even used a soldering iron before.
nlitworld suggested doing away with the circuit board and making another one from scratch and altering the inductor orientation, as the original design has them in the same plane.
I had read on another forum that the crossover was designed in this way, taking into account any interference between the inductors, so I am wondering if the crossover is directly copied, with new capacitors and the inductors switched so they are not interfering, is there a possibility that this might negatively affect the output?
As for the tube connectors, I realised last night (Yes, I am being a bit slow on the uptake), that is would be easy to install these below the binding posts and wire them directly to the tab that the binding posts connect to.
Possibly going to upgrade the internal wiring and lose the connector between the crossover and the drivers. Am I right in thinking that solid core wire is preferable for these connections?
I will post some pics when the upgrades are done, as well as report on how the upgrades have worked out.

[nlitworld]

  I keep seeing the photo of the woofers and thinking it's stretched weird, but they're just actually oval. Lol. That looks to be a fairly straight forward crossover minus the dials on there. My best recommendation is actually test this in stages. Do your driver and cap swap, use the same pcb, burn it all in for a couple weeks and test. See which setting you prefer the dials at and how it suits your room.

Phase 2, now that you know the settings you like, come back and point-to-point wire a new crossover using that schematic without the knobs. When doing this, replace that iron core inductor and orient the other inductors accordingly. If going all out maybe toss a bypass cap on the C1&C2 mid and C4 tweeter cap (if using that supertweeter at all). Everything should fit on a new board the same size and if you needed to make a new faceplate without the knob holes, just grab an aluminum sheet from hobo depot, paint it black and glue your crossover board to the backside of it. Then last step is do a happy dance cause it'll sound freaking awesome. Looking forward to the progress report.

[OldAnalogue]

That sounds like a good plan!
Cheers.

[OldAnalogue]

OK, well it's a been a little while, but I have finally gottten round to replacing the capacitors and resistor in the DM3 crossovers.
I used Jantzen standard caps for the woofer and tweeter, their cross-caps for the super-tweeter, and their superes 10W resistor.
I decided against any higher quality caps for the high frequencies, as being hearing impaired, I didn't feel the juice was worth squeeze, but even I have immediately noticed a crispening of the soundstage, a lifting of a veil I had not even been aware of.
The original, ITT, capacitors were not too far out of spec, but were clearly tired.
The 6x2.2uF caps measured 2.25, 2.25, 2.25, 2.17, 2.10 and 2.16
The 1.5uF caps measured 1.587 and 1.53
The 0.68uF caps measured 0.751 and 0.753
The resistors both had some heat stress damage, so I replaced them both.
I decided not to mess with either the orientation of the inductors, nor the iron core on the woofer circuit, as looking at the original frequency response being so flat, I am wondering if the XO was not possibly designed with the orientation accounted for?
Anyway, eitherway, they really are incredible fun to listen to, and I am thinking I would like to install tube connectors and replace the internal wiring. With this in mind, I would be grateful of some advice on how to connect the internal end of the tube connector to the circuit board.
The connection is currently via a biding post which is itself non-ferrous, but has a ferrous disk at its midpoint, which holds it to the backplate. This bolt fits through a hole in the circuitboard, and is connected to the circuit by being sandwiched between two non-ferrous washers. This would seem to be an obvious place for improvement in the signal path, but am wondering if drilling holes for the tube connectors in the cabinet, below the binding post plate, and soldering short jumper cables between the tube connector and the circuit board?
I'm thinking of also replacing the internal wiring, and doing away with the (non-ferrous) connection between the baffle and the cross over.
Would it be very detrimental to put the tube connectors near the bottom of the speaker, but keep the cross over in the original position and connect using a long piece of wire?
Any advice much appreciated.
Here a vid of where I am https://youtube.com/shorts/KeAowQ3Gy58