[nocrapman]

I have been a long time luker.
Over the last 3-4 years I have worked on my woodworking skills to a point where I feel I can handle some speakers.
Planning to build a Servo based sub and N2X in that order to begin with.

I have all the usual woodworking tools - TS, bandsaw, routers etc.

What I dont have is the following:

Circle cutting jig - Jasper 200

Soldering Station - I was thinking of this Hakko
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Soldering-Station-FX-888/dp/B004M3U0VU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334757833&sr=8-1
Is this overkill?

Solder - http://www.amazon.com/American-Terminal-AT-31604-Solder-Ounces/dp/B00030AP48/ref=pd_cp_hi_1
Is this ok for crossovers or do I need a different variety?

Glue - will the standard yellow wood glue work or do I need a different kind for the MDF?

MDF - 3/4" MDF from the BORG or something better?

Brads - Should I avoid using brads during glue up or is it ok?

Router bits for MDF - will straight cutters work or do I need spiral (which I dont have)?

Thanks for reading the long list of questions!

[Danny Richie]

High quality solder comes with all of our kits. So you don't have to look for solder and it insures that our customers have really good audiophile grade solder.

Most of our kits are designed to use 3/4" MDF. It is commonly available. And Yellow wood glue is fine. Straight cut router bits work fine with the MDF too.

You will want to pick up a circle jig. It makes cutting baffles pretty easy.

[S Clark]

Avoid brads on your front baffle if you are going to roundover the edges.  Router bits and nails are a bad combination. 

[django11]

You don't really need a fancy soldering iron... What finish do you have in mind?

[nocrapman]

You don't really need a fancy soldering iron... What finish do you have in mind?

Havent thought about the finish yet...
Was thinking... paint it...then a few coats of glossy PU...

But could use some pointers here.

[rockdrummer]

I too, lurked for a long time and felt I had learned enough to begin a set of monitors.  While I don't have any particular advice for you, I can say that even though I have limited tools and only basic skills with wiring and soldering, Danny makes it workable for any skill level.  Also, I have never had a problem getting any questions answered here.  For me though, I was glad I made a practice cut with my DIY circle jig.  I was able to cut perfect circles  but only after minor adjustments with my jig.

Good luck!  I was sad when i finished cutting.  I didn't want to be done with that stage.

Ben

[django11]

Havent thought about the finish yet...
Was thinking... paint it...then a few coats of glossy PU...

But could use some pointers here.

The ends of the mdf will telegraph through (you will see them).  They still look pretty good painted though.  I think AC member Ron did some painted enclosures.  He did pictures on his build if you do a search...

[HT cOz]

My experience is that painting is way more difficult than wood veneer.

[Æ]

Brads - Should I avoid using brads during glue up or is it ok?

What you need are clamps. One can never have too many. Web clamps can go all the way around and squeeze from both sides. Cabinet makers often shoot nails, staples when assembling cabinetry, which is fine and dandy. But if you do, just remember where they are. I've used screws to hold projects together, then later removed the screws and filled the holes.

My favorite glue is epoxy, two part marine grade. Kind of expensive and not really necessary, but I like the extended layup time that epoxy affords. Epoxy can fill even wide gaps where most wood glues could not. Mix a little bit of sawdust in with the epoxy and it becomes an excellent putty. Spread a little bit of epoxy into the end grain of MDF to seal it. Cured epoxy can be cut and sawed and sanded and shaped etc.

[cody69]

+1 for clamps

Soldering Station - I was thinking of this Hakko
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Soldering-Station-FX-888/dp/B004M3U0VU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334757833&sr=8-1
Is this overkill?

When I first started, I used a pencil soldering iron, but got concerned that I was over-heating components due to the length of time I had to hold the soldering head on the wire to heat up. I've since gone to a 100/140 watt soldering gun available at all the big box stores and feel I'm heating up the components less. Know it sounds backwards, but the higher wattage heats the wire almost instantly and I get a good solder joint without excessive heat traveling back into the caps & resistors. And the price is less than half that unit you've listed above.

And be careful if you use mechanical fasteners with MDF. Since MDF is made from compressed fibers and doesn't have grain, it tends to split very easily with nails, brads and screws if you don't pre-drill. Back to the comment on clamps, if you have plenty and get a good glue joint, you don't need fasteners for a strong joint.

[daveforshee]

nocrapman, have you put any more thought into the finish on the speakers?  I am building some A/V-1 enclosures right now and I am exploring my options.

-Dave

[flyingpoint]

Went through something similar last winter.  Posted a progress report here : http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=97772.0

Good luck.  I thoroughly enjoyed building my speakers.

[the7comeback7kid]

It was a blast building mine as well. I really like veneer so will recommend that, but I admit it's not for everyone.