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I'm Feeling lucky
DBE 854E 7-1743-4816-B 9E 7-8FED 88F 767EB
CDACC 93B-E 048-4859-8E 18-6B 045EA 9059D
Tied up and down. All items are padded with some hot glue, tied in place! Then the ties are glued so they won’t come loose.
Mounting holes drilled, added feet for spots not screwed down. Tapered the holes..brass screws again. Ready for wire.
Well, I know they will be better when done.. But wow they are cheep! Klipsch for sale! Lol.
Dying laughing
(Untitled)
F 004DDA 5-3258-4BBE-A 22B-DBE 1A 74B 07F 9
Crap-out
Removed the 5-way! FYI the post is Brass! The lock washer, nut and male spade are metal! I wonder how these would be with all brass hardware, and silver male spade.
I was able to move the hole up a few MM to allow more room behind it. Sand down the area for the glue to stick! 2 part epoxy! Cheep stuff, not my expensive stuff. Razor blade the two tabs off that hold the male spade. Please sand the area!
Front shot! You can see I was able to move the hole up a few MM
Wires! Drivers are both in series! Outer and inner. Tweeter is normal phase! Not reverse!
Negative shared, all heat shrinked!
Looking down and from behind. You can see how I ran my - together, this is common.. The wire is not for the woofers.. Please make that note! I used two different colors with the series wires.. making sure to mark the neg and pos of the wires that will be the same color in the same speaker hole.
You can see the box is cleaned up! Took forever with the glue they use. After no res I’m going to wrap the wires in foam tape. No rattle!!
7/16th hole, sanded down cup, installed and ready! Make sure you all position the female connection on both in the right orientation.
Nice!
Using some extra 2 part cheep glue, I used a little to make the back cup strong.. hoping it won’t vibrate as much. Overboard yes.
0CDF 7FCB-4085-4C 4D-BB 48-077FC 8609A 34
602AEDEA-6746-4C 13-959F-9D 5F 2E 8BD 115
(Untitled)
This is where I put the xover. I used some Polly under it to help (you see it sitting) then a piece over the xover. As well, I used Polly to fill gaps in the no res!
C 6D 04470-ABE 9-4D 56-81DD-D 2C 9159C 86BC
Some folks said that Danny did not give enough wire for the 504C kit. This is what I had left over! So, I do feel when setting up the crossover board, it would be ideal to combine the negative’s! And positives! This will allow for a single line input from and then easy to run your single from input - to tweeter - as you single main run. I used one single wire as well from post on board, to both speakers.
Before the upgrade my AVR had a hard time finding a flat line! It looked like a roller coaster. After mods, I’d say this is flat! Being that’s proof this works. If the software could not find that line before, and now it can... thus showing us this nice flat line.. it works confirming with REW and some other ideas.
What happens when you mismatch kHz input settings. Apple was set to 48, REW sets to 44.1. Learn! Lol It’s overlaying the two measurements with wrong settings what can happen. My lower end showed a different result. Of course it will! Lol.
So, I think the bottom end might be room mode, and casing some of this. This is taken in spot. And the location I feel most would say, ehh not great.