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IMG 0244.JPG - This was a test layout of the jig setup on the table saw. I used the table saw because it has a perfectly flat surface to keep things all on the same plane.	IMG 0237.JPG - The router is the venerable Hitachi M12V at 15A, 3Â¼HP. It will accept a Â¼" or Â½" shaft bit and weighs in at 12.4lbs. The bit is a Grizzly double fluted straight bit, Â½" shank, 1Â¼" cutter diameter and 2â…" OAL.	IMG 0239.JPG - With router attached and all mating surfaces sprayed with lacquer and waxed. It slides very well back and forth.	IMG 0233.JPG - The first test fit of the jig with one edge guide attached.
IMG 0225.JPG - The top parts of this will be the carriage for the router and the bottom are the rails.	IMG 0231.JPG - Layout of the pieces on Â¾" MDF. I bought the Â¾" and 1â…›" MDF from a local lumber yard and not one of the "big box" stores. I don't think the MDF from the "big box" stores is of very good quality.	IMG 0257.JPG - The last Â½" still to cut.	(Untitled)
IMG 0250.JPG - It produced a beautiful 9 ft. radius curve. The material is 1â…›" MDF. I removed about 1mm from the apex and that left a Â¾" edge.	IMG 0245.JPG - As the router is slid back and forth, the side being cut will be pushed under the router. I used the top half of some cam clamps to act as hold-downs to the side piece.	When you drive the â…›" pin into the center of the circle and scrap backing, it acts like a nail and compresses the cushy liner material and prevents anything from moving. And yes, that is a Black & Decker 7620 router that dates back to 1975.	My technique for cutting the circles out of the braces is to use a Jasper Circle Cutting Jig and a piece of non-slip liner. This is the stuff you use to put under a rug to keep it from moving and it's also sold as shelve and drawer liner.
In the router table is a Bosch Flush Trim Bit, Â½" x 1", triple flute Carbide tipped.	I used a template to cut the internal braces to make sure that each one is exactly the same size and shape.	Starting on the Braces - The braces laid out on the same one sheet of Â¾" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard).	Braces cut and rounded over.
IMG 0263.JPG - It's always nice to have plenty of clamps.	(Untitled)	(Untitled)	(Untitled)
IMG 0270.JPG - The urgent action of glue up did not allow me the time to take a picture, so this is a staged reenactment.	IMG 0277.JPG - A bit tricky trying to get the Â¾" side edges to be on the same plane as the back of the braces.	(Untitled)	(Untitled)
(Untitled)	(Untitled)	IMG 0295.JPG - The back being glued on.	IMG 0299.JPG - Ever wonder why those little 1" clamps are included when you buy a clamp kit?
(Untitled)	IMG 0294.JPG - I had a little hiccup while I was rounding over the uninstalled back and had to make a little patch. Finally got to use those tiny 1" C-clamps.	(Untitled)	IMG 0315.JPG - This is the same spot, just a different angle.
IMG 0313.JPG - A test of the clear top coat over the stained veneer.	IMG 0309.JPG - Here are some of the pieces that will make up the Baffles.	(Untitled)	(Untitled)
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(Untitled)	Walnut Claro Burl 7868-03	CD Tweak 005	CD Tweak 006
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(Untitled)	M-130	Neo 3 PDR	(Untitled)
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(Untitled)	OB5_comp2	OB5_comp1	OB 5 RRcomp
(Untitled)	Kimber Kable with PE tube	Vibration modes	Extra curved side panels
OB-5 JIG-FRONT-Layout 1 - I drew this up using AutoCad 2004 so I could get a good idea of what was needed and the dimensions necessary to make things fit.	OB-5 JIG-SIDE-Layout 1 - Side view of curved-side cutting jig. This will make a 9' radius cut.	IMG_0220 - The first task was to accurately cut the bottom rail and top carriage runners at a 9'1.77" radius. This required a lot of preparation.	IMG 0229.JPG - The cutting bit is a BOSCH micro solid carbide, upcut, end mill. Â¼" cut Â¼" shank, 2Â½" OAL.
IMG 0221.JPG - The cut had to be perfect at 90 degrees. Each pass would cut about â…›" (2mm) off.	(Untitled)	IMG 0222.JPG - Here is the 9' extension to hold the router.	IMG 0228.JPG - I used a Â¼" aluminum pin to anchor it.
IMG 0224.JPG - The edge guide that came with the router made the perfect connection piece.	IMG 0226.JPG - Here is one side of the guide rails cut. I've embedded two Â½" rectangular steel tubes into the bottom of the rails to help support the weight of the router.