X-LS Encore Cabinet Finishing Opinions

Ron · « **Reply #20 on:** 29 Apr 2013, 03:09 am »

You guys have provided some excellent and very informative info !

I greatly appreciate the info you have given. My youngest son was asking me this evening if I could build him a pair of X-SLS Encores floor standing speakers finished in high gloss piano black. Hopefully either Easy Poxy or Brightsides sells the high gloss black that I will need. Looks like building the X-SLS Encores finished in high gloss black will be my first priority in building over the X-LS Encores. If the X-SLS Encores turn out as well as I anticipate, then the X-LS Encores in red with white racing stripes will be next. I plan to watch the videos first thing tomorrow morning and check the available colors from Easy Poxy and Brightsides.

Thanks again for all your help!

Ron

bdp24 · « **Reply #21 on:** 29 Apr 2013, 04:09 am »

Quote from: lacro on 28 Apr 2013, 11:13 pm

Eric,
Using epoxy to seal/harden MDF isn't something that is very common. the reason I did is I am familiar with using it, and I had it available. Working with epoxy isn't difficult, however, there is a learning curve.

The reason I like it is it hardened the MDF which made it similar to a hardwood, and seals the seams from showing. Also, it builds much quicker than other finishes. The coating you plan to use should work just fine. Epoxy is just one way to finish MDF. There are many tried and true methods available.

I will be building a center channel soon, and I will document the epoxy process in detail
so others can decide it is something they want to try.

Larry

Great, thanks a lot Larry---Eric.

Ron · « **Reply #22 on:** 29 Apr 2013, 08:27 pm »

Well I checked out the Pettit " Easy Poxy" and Interlux "Brightsides" ones step polyurethane based marine paints available from Jamestown Distributors. The good news is that it appears both paints will give me the bright, beautiful, glassy smooth finish that I am looking for using the rolling and tipping painting method. The bad news is that by the time I buy all the other needed items such as surface filler putty, Pre-Kote primer/undercoat, and cleaner/solvent along with the paint + shipping that the total cost is going to be fairly expensive. Since I had only planned on doing two small (2) sets of speaker cabinets at the most, it's hard for me to justly the cost of everything I would need buy. I plan to check into other possible options, if any, that might be cheaper and still look as nice.

lacro · « **Reply #23 on:** 29 Apr 2013, 10:13 pm »

Ron,
I hope your not exposing your speakers to the same environment as a boat

You won't need the pre-kote primer or cleaner/solvent, and you can use lots of different "cheap" products for a filler. The only thing you need is one $10 1/2 pint of Fire Red (or Black) Brightsides.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Interlux-Brightside-High-Gloss-Paint-Half-Pints-/200886915011 FREE SHIPPING!

If you want to try epoxy this is the smallest kit from Raka http://store.raka.com/11/2quartepoxykit.aspx

If you don't want to do the epoxy, just build up several coats of Bulls Eye Seal Coat (in one day), and apply the Brightsides over it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-Qt-Wood-Sealer-824H/202070456#.UX7otLXCngY

Just trying to help...

Larry

Ron · « **Reply #24 on:** 29 Apr 2013, 10:55 pm »

I feel like a real idiot !

I only looked at Jamestown Distributors who apparently stocks the paints only in quart and gallon size containers. Didn't dawn on me to search for smaller size containers of the Bridgeside or Easy Poxy urethane paints on the internet as well as epoxy resin kits or a good wood sealer. Thanks Larry, I do appreciate your help and will order the smaller size cans of paint from ebay and the wood sealer from HD.

Ron

Captainhemo · « **Reply #25 on:** 29 Apr 2013, 11:06 pm »

Ron, I bet where you are you'll easily find the Easy Poxy or Brightside locally, save some $ on shipping

-jay

Ron · « **Reply #26 on:** 29 Apr 2013, 11:29 pm »

Jay, I did check and found one company locally in Virginia Beach that sells it, but they were more expensive and they too stocked it only in quart and gallon size cans. I just placed an order on Ebay for some 1/2 pint size cans of Brightside Red, White, and Black urethane paints that Larry found. I'll keep everyone posted when I try it out on the first pair of cabinets I build along with some pictures. The X-LS Encores will be red with white racing strips. I am hoping they will look really unique.

Ron

Captainhemo · « **Reply #27 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 12:19 am »

cool, glad you got the paint ordered..
I'm sure the red w/white racing stripes is gong to look great

Can't wait to see them

-jay

Saturn94 · « **Reply #28 on:** 16 May 2013, 06:14 pm »

Hi Ron.

Any updates on this project to report?

Hope you are well.

chip · « **Reply #29 on:** 16 May 2013, 07:47 pm »

Quote from: lacro on 29 Apr 2013, 10:13 pm

Ron,
I hope your not exposing your speakers to the same environment as a boat You won't need the pre-kote primer or cleaner/solvent, and you can use lots of different "cheap" products for a filler. The only thing you need is one $10 1/2 pint of Fire Red (or Black) Brightsides.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Interlux-Brightside-High-Gloss-Paint-Half-Pints-/200886915011 FREE SHIPPING!

If you want to try epoxy this is the smallest kit from Raka http://store.raka.com/11/2quartepoxykit.aspx

If you don't want to do the epoxy, just build up several coats of Bulls Eye Seal Coat (in one day), and apply the Brightsides over it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-Qt-Wood-Sealer-824H/202070456#.UX7otLXCngY

Just trying to help...

Larry

So am I reading it right that the Zinsser can be used to help hide the seams in a build where you want to paint the speaker box?

Ron · « **Reply #30 on:** 16 May 2013, 10:15 pm »

The Zinsser is a sealer which is good for hiding scratches but not for covering seams. It is best to use several layers of epoxy to cover and hind seams. The Zinnser sealer can be used over the epoxy prior to applying the paint. I did experiment with the Brightside urethane marine paint, but wasn't happy with the results. Nothing wrong with the paint, it was just me not being experienced using this type of product. Originally I had planned to use the marine urethane paint on my X-LS Encore speaker cabinets but ended up using several coats of sealer and then spray painting with Rustoleum Universal satin black paint. Other than the fact that the seams are showing through they do look pretty good. If I had it to do over, I would definitely use several coats of epoxy resin first prior to painting which would definitely have covered the seams and kept them from showing through.

Ron

chip · « **Reply #31 on:** 16 May 2013, 11:20 pm »

Do you apply epoxy to just the seam areas?

Can you get anything that would work from say home depot or lowes?

Or would like a woodworking store be better like rockler or woodcrafters?

Ron · « **Reply #32 on:** 17 May 2013, 01:06 am »

Chip,

Several layers of epoxy resin should be all applied over the entire surface of the cabinet and sanded between coats. If you want to try the epoxy resin you can buy a small kit from from
Raka at the following website: http://store.raka.com/11/2quartepoxykit.aspx

If you don't want to use epoxy you can also build up several coats of Bulls Eye Seal Coat in one day since it is fast drying. I believe both Lowes and Home Depot stores sell it.

Hope this helps answer your question. Wish I had been smart enough to have used one of the
above products myself before painting my speaker cabinets. Instead I only used a thick wood sealer which was not enough to seal the seams.

chip · « **Reply #33 on:** 17 May 2013, 01:49 am »

I guess the next question becomes how many coats? What grit do you use to sand between coats?

Ron · « **Reply #34 on:** 17 May 2013, 10:51 am »

You need a minimum of two (2) coats. Three (3) might be better. I recommend using the epoxy resin. It is more expensive than the Bulls Eye sealer but will do a lot better job covering the seams. You can use 220 or 320 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the epoxy between coats.Be sure to wipe with a tack cloth before painting.

chip · « **Reply #35 on:** 17 May 2013, 03:00 pm »

Great info as always Ron - Didn't mean to take over your thread with questions either.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #36 on:** 17 May 2013, 05:21 pm »

This might be kind of obvous , but be sure to use a good sized blcok when sanding too. Really helps to keep things nice and level and make those seams disappear.
Another point Ron and I were discussing... use a dark primer before doing your top coat. It can really help to show any problem areas you might have before final paint is applied.

-jay

Captainhemo · « **Reply #37 on:** 17 May 2013, 05:23 pm »

Whoops,

chip · « **Reply #38 on:** 17 May 2013, 05:53 pm »

Quote from: Captainhemo on 17 May 2013, 05:21 pm

This might be kind of obvous , but be sure to use a good sized blcok when sanding too. Really helps to keep things nice and level and make those seams disappear.
Another point Ron and I were discussing... use a dark primer before doing your top coat. It can really help to show any problem areas you might have before final paint is applied.

-jay

Yes I was thinking of that as well - primer part. Extra steps but if you want it to look nice it may be needed. My 1st gr subs I did you can see the seams.

Outofthewoods · « **Reply #39 on:** 17 May 2013, 06:00 pm »

Hey Ron,

Another thing to consider when working with a high gloss is the darkness of the colors. Lighter colors hide unevenness as they don't reflect like a mirror except at a steep angle.

There is no absolutely no forgiveness on black!

Ruben

Even that little bit of lint/dust on the finish sticks out like a sore thumb.