My build of Gr-research OB-7's from Custom Concepts flatpack

TRADERXFAN · « **Reply #20 on:** 29 Feb 2008, 02:09 am »

I am at an impasse and it sucks. I can't really do any more until it gets warmer and I can put the bedliner on the speakers and the crossover boxes. I have the crossovers soldered up and holes drilled for binding posts in, and holes for the exit wires out. I just can't do any more at this point.

The highest its predicted to get in the next 10 days is 45 degrees, and on that day there is showers!

I guess I will see you in April...

Bill Baker · « **Reply #21 on:** 29 Feb 2008, 02:16 am »

Geez dude, you have some patients. That would kill me having speakers sitting around waiting on Mother Nature.
I think mom nature wants you to hearthese speakers so I predict 70's next week.

TRADERXFAN · « **Reply #22 on:** 29 Feb 2008, 05:02 pm »

Bill, it is really bugging me. I am not as patient as I may have sounded.

new developments! My friend suggested getting a torpedo heater and run it in the garage. That should be able to get the temp from 40 to 60+. I found a guy I work with one to lend it to me.

My question for those who have worked with the bedliner finish, is how long do you need to let them dry before you could pick them up? On the can it says to wait 30 min to remove the masking tape, and 24 hours to "let dry before use". I can't run the heater for 24 hours, so I would like to move them to the basement after say an hour or 2. If that can be done without messing up the paint.

I think I could lift and carry by the driver holes... any thoughts?

Bill Baker · « **Reply #23 on:** 29 Feb 2008, 05:14 pm »

The paint dries rather quick. Let them dry a few hours and you can at least bring them back into the house. Yes, you should be able to see dimples in the fiish to indicate the screw holes. My concern would be potential of flash fire. This stuff is very flamable. Just a word of caution.

TRADERXFAN · « **Reply #24 on:** 29 Feb 2008, 05:25 pm »

Great. And the warning is duly noted.

I will tell my wife how to post here, in case something tragic happens and we will let everyone know, for posterity...

TRADERXFAN · « **Reply #25 on:** 5 Mar 2008, 01:40 am »

The paint job...
well about all I want to say is that they are covered in paint. I am not proud, but they are satisfactory. They will be at home in a shadowy spot, low light conditions. The full light of day and these speakers never should meet.

I have a lot of advice of what not to do with bedliner. They texture is much rougher than I expected, like sandpaper. Not super black either. Seams. Patchy-ness. stringy-ness etc... I am sure its all about the application and the various things that were sub-optimal...

However the wife doesn't think they look bad at all, and I am not about to point out the flaws. If they get on my nerves too much I will sand them down and do something else this spring.

Bill Baker · « **Reply #26 on:** 5 Mar 2008, 02:03 am »

They don't look bad from here! I don't know how many different types of bedliner there are but what I have used in the past always provided a nice dark, lightly textured finish. If it is too rough, it could have been caused by applying in temps that were too cold and not allowing it to "flow". Bedliner usually has a smooth textured appearence and feel about it.

The good thing about bedliner is that you can sand it down and reapply when the temps are warmer using this coat basically as a primer/filler coat

Just tell teh wife this is only a base coat so she doesn't have to look at bare MDF.

Don't worry about the finish now..........get 'em done and let us know how they sound.

mcgsxr · « **Reply #27 on:** 5 Mar 2008, 02:18 am »

Having used bedliner a few times myself, I would suggest that the texture can be too rough if you were a little too far from the piece during application - it basically dries in the air on the way down, and ends up with a 200 grit feel.

Best case it is nearly smooth, but the best news is that as Bill says, you can always lightly sand and shoot again - it covers itself perfectly!

TRADERXFAN · « **Reply #28 on:** 5 Mar 2008, 03:38 am »

Thanks for the support guys.

I am pretty happy with them as they look in the house tonight. I will keep that option open though for later.

I actually had a measuring tape out and kept pretty consistent eye on the 24 inch mark. But trying to get it done quickly, I probably didn't stick to my imaginary line.

It was probably too cold, too humid, too far away, should have sanded more (but they felt smooth to the touch, didn't know it wasn't enough). Should have primer'd and sanded again, which I didn't. Then I think the heater blowing into the spray area did something too, made it separate as it was getting sprayed. Also i think the cans of paint weren't up to temp. I had to drive 30 min in a cold car with them to get to my house. I went through 4 cans on the first day and didn't have enough for the bases or touchups. I went back with 4 more the 2nd day, but only used 2.

You would have laughed if you saw me yesterday. It was about 29 degrees outside. So I had all of the stuff to be sprayed in the house keeping warm while I tried, in vain, to run the torpedo heater. After 20 minutes it didn't make a dent in the temperature in the garage "paint booth" I made. So I decided that it might be ok to just run one piece out at a time, spray it, and run it back in. It actually didn't work out too bad. It was better looking than the first day's work. The bases looked the best, and that was the first time I sprayed them.

So to sum up. Sand and putty more. Do a primer coat. Wait for the right weather. Don't spray too far away, and don't let wind interfere. Probably a good idea to test a sheet of mdf with the spray and see what kind of texture you want. And what distance it takes to make that.

There are more pic's in the gallery.

Nick77 · « **Reply #29 on:** 5 Mar 2008, 03:36 pm »

Have to agree, they dont look bad from here. In fact they look awesome! Cant wait to hear your comparisions with your current speakers. I might be inclined to do the same.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #30 on:** 5 Mar 2008, 04:53 pm »

I think they look great too.

Bill A · « **Reply #31 on:** 5 Mar 2008, 07:39 pm »

I like the bed liner for some things, like stands. However, its rough texture collects dust that is difficult to wipe off, so I spray a clear lacquer over it. It gives it a little shine and the dust wipes off easily.

Bill

TRADERXFAN · « **Reply #32 on:** 8 Mar 2008, 10:59 pm »

Assembled!

They ARE able to play a cd (no smoke, no sizzle) so I met my wife's main criteria! -She had said prior to the start of the project "lets just see if we can get them to play a cd"

Couple of finishing touches still to do. I haven't got the acoustastuf here yet. How much should I use? I bought 2#'s. I figure a bag each?

Now I am going to move them to the living room and fire them up and go out for a victory dinner and give them a chance to break in some.

Thanks to everyone who gave all manner of assistance in my first DIY audio project! I like the way they look. Can't wait for them to get settled in.

I will share what my observations as soon as I am able.

Going to build some tube traps next. My wife's cats have been using the panels in the corner as a kitty couch/jungle gym and they are sinking in and getting frayed. So I am going with the bolder tubes. The wood on the top will keep them from getting deformed if they climb up them.

Updates will be coming soon.

Thanks again especially Danny, Denny, and Bill B.

Bill A. I definitely am going to do that lacquer, thanks for the tip!

ecramer · « **Reply #33 on:** 8 Mar 2008, 11:04 pm »

Very A job well done

Don't worry about the little imperfections what seems like a mountain will go away in week So how did that cd sound?

Nick77 · « **Reply #34 on:** 8 Mar 2008, 11:37 pm »

They look fantastic! Great job! Cant wait to hear your impressions. How do they compare?

Bill Baker · « **Reply #35 on:** 8 Mar 2008, 11:52 pm »

They look good and they work. What I would do now is play something with decent bass and make sure your bass drivers are wired properly and you don't have one out of phase. (hey, it happens) They should all be moving in the same direction.

As far as the Acousta Stuff goes, I started with 1 lb in each cabinet but ended up removing half. Best results I obtained was 1/2 lb. per enclosure. This provided the cleanest, tightest bass. You can always experiment to see what gives you the best results.

Congratulations..... the hard part is done..........now enjoy them

.

Bill Baker · « **Reply #36 on:** 8 Mar 2008, 11:57 pm »

Oh, by the way. If you go with a lacquer clear coat. Don't use a high gloss

Go with a satin finish. Any imperfections will stick out like a sore thumb with gloss. I use to paint cars, big rigs and fire trucks for a living and trying to spray a quality high gloss finish is hard to do if the bodywork is not perfect.

mas · « **Reply #37 on:** 9 Mar 2008, 11:33 pm »

Nice job, the speakers look great.

How about some pics from the back? I am curious how you managed the wiring to the open baffle speakers. (Edit: Oops, I just found your photo gallery, never mind!)

I just unstuffed my OB-5's. I removed all but a very small portion of the fiber fill. Bass extension and impact have been restored. I swear there is more midrange detail as well. So, go easy on the fill to start. If you feel it is too boomy, add some more. If you think it is over damped, take some out.

Question for Daygloworange: why is the back of the tweeter open? I'm just wondering if I screwed up my OB-5, because mine is closed. Maybe that was the difference between using two sheets glued together for the baffle, as opposed to a single solid piece.

Daygloworange · « **Reply #38 on:** 10 Mar 2008, 01:50 am »

TRADERXFAN,

Good to see you got 'em done.

They seemed to have turned out great!

Please tell us what you think, once you've had some time to burn them in a bit.

Quote

Question for Daygloworange: why is the back of the tweeter open? I'm just wondering if I screwed up my OB-5, because mine is closed. Maybe that was the difference between using two sheets glued together for the baffle, as opposed to a single solid piece.

No special reason. It's easier to just cut a through hole for the tweeter and run the wires through the back opening.

The Neo3 is run with the back cup on, not in free air. So no harm done if you have the back closed off behind the tweeter.

Cheers

kp93300 · « **Reply #39 on:** 15 Mar 2008, 09:53 am »

HI TRADERXFAN and other builders of the kit,
I am in the midst of building a OB5 kit.
Can you share a close up picture of the crossover ? I am thinking of building a separete box for the crossover and would like to know how you mount the parts onto the board.

Thanks

KP93300