[Vince in TX]

This seems like a silly question since I should know this, but what steps have (or should) you take when troubleshooting a non-functional tweeter?   Three out of four A/V-1RS speakers I just built are working flawlessly, but I have one problem child that refuses to ignite the tweeter for some reason.   All of the wiring appears correct.

Thoughts?

I pinged Danny for a replacement tweeter just in case.   I'll break out the Multimeter tomorrow.

Thanks!

[EdwardT]

You could play a low level audio signal directly to the tweeter bypassing the xover, like an iPod or phone headphone output, just to see if it is functional. If the tweeter works full range you can repeat this at different points along the circuit until you find the break or faulty component.

[Vince in TX]

You could play a low level audio signal directly to the tweeter bypassing the xover, like an iPod or phone headphone output, just to see if it is functional. If the tweeter works full range you can repeat this at different points along the circuit until you find the break or faulty component.

I hooked it back up after double-checking that the internal wires for the tweeter assembly were intact, but the test tone is definitely missing the highs.   I'm going to cut it out of the circuit this morning and check the Ohm reading.   If that tests out okay, I'll have to disassemble the speaker and pull the crossover assembly back out of it.   I tried briefly to pry up on it, but that Velcro must be industrial strength because it didn't budge.

[EdwardT]

Oy! That's DuoLock and you'll likely need a prying tool to dislodge the locking beads. I use that when I want to lock down  something I don’t want to move in transit but that I might occasionally need to pry up to repair or swap out. It does a great job but it’s tough to free in a tight spot.

[Vince in TX]

Oy! That's DuoLock and you'll likely need a prying tool to dislodge the locking beads. I use that when I want to lock down  something I don’t want to move in transit but that I might occasionally need to pry up to repair or swap out. It does a great job but it’s tough to free in a tight spot.

I didn't want it to move from vibration, and there was no clearance to put screws in there.   Mission accomplished.   It won't move.   

I've pretty much concluded that the tweeter is dead.   I pulled both drivers and cut them out of the circuits.   The M130 properly measures around 6 Ohm (normal for 8 Ohm), but the tweeter has no reading.   I then plugged the crossover (sans drivers) into the AVR and ran a test tone to it.   I can see voltage on all inputs and outputs, so I'm pretty sure the crossover is good.   I'll measure a functional speaker just to compare the voltage levels on the output.

It may be my fault.   I accidentally left my soldering iron on, and it burnt the tip, so to finish up I grabbed my automotive soldering iron.   I may have gotten lucky with the other speakers, but it's entirely possible I got the connections too hot and burnt the voice coil.   I solved my soldering iron problem by biting the bullet on a Metcal (the same thing we used at Compaq).   Now I just need a replacement tweeter.   Never a dull moment.

[Vince in TX]

Root cause found.   I melted the voice coil with excessive heat from a malfunctioning soldering iron.   

Note the brown discoloration.   Gotta love it.

[Danny Richie]

Your new tweeter went out yesterday.

[Vince in TX]

Your new tweeter went out yesterday.

You are awesome.   Thanks!   

[Theronbo]

Wait!?

Where you getting the kits from?

Danny hasn’t sold that kit for close to a year… & currently the entire line up of AV speakers is under ‘redesign’…

Which is a good thing since the AVR1S were reflection speakers… an Dolby ATMOS doesn’t utilize reflection … except for ‘up firing’ Klipsch… which seems a poor hack.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

He got them after the M130 8ohm finally were back in stock.
But it wasn't long before we started running low onthe tweeters.

We're down to just a tiny handful were saving for warantee parts.

The crossover for the AV-1RS replacement has it's crossover completed and we should be launching it soon. It's essentially the same speaker, but with ghe T26 tweeter used in the X series.

The X-Bravo is the replacement for the A/V-1.

[Vince in TX]

Wait!?

Where you getting the kits from?

Danny hasn’t sold that kit for close to a year… & currently the entire line up of AV speakers is under ‘redesign’…

Which is a good thing since the AVR1S were reflection speakers… an Dolby ATMOS doesn’t utilize reflection … except for ‘up firing’ Klipsch… which seems a poor hack.

These replaced my primary surround and rear surround speakers.   Primary surrounds are at ear level.   I have four in-ceiling speakers for ATMOS (Bowers & Wilkins CCM684).   I plan to diffuse the A/V-1RS speakers at the slope in the ceiling using QRD diffusers from GIK Acoustics.   Trust me, these sound absolutely amazing even without diffusion.  I was fine with old-school since my X-Statics and X-Voce are also old-school from the AV123 days.   They pair exceptionally well.

[Theronbo]

Sweet setup Vince…

I also have the X-Statics & X-Voce … went to Parts Express for rear & rear overhead speakers…

But thinking of upgrading to 11 channel amp… there are some new entrants that make the upgrade reasonable.

Hobbs… thanks, good to know… can you put me on a list? Id love 2 pairs…. Guess I’ll rely on the speaker balancing software…

So, if you’ve mapped out the cross over… it’s just putting the kits together… cross over in a bag? Or preassembled?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Sweet setup Vince…

I also have the X-Statics & X-Voce … went to Parts Express for rear & rear overhead speakers…

But thinking of upgrading to 11 channel amp… there are some new entrants that make the upgrade reasonable.

Hobbs… thanks, good to know… can you put me on a list? Id love 2 pairs…. Guess I’ll rely on the speaker balancing software…

So, if you’ve mapped out the cross over… it’s just putting the kits together… cross over in a bag? Or preassembled?

Just give us a call and we'll get ya sorted out. 

[Vince in TX]

Sweet setup Vince…

I also have the X-Statics & X-Voce … went to Parts Express for rear & rear overhead speakers…

But thinking of upgrading to 11 channel amp… there are some new entrants that make the upgrade reasonable.
...

Thanks!   I'm using a Marantz SR8015 (my previous amp, a Marantz SR6012, is still in use in my game room).  Both are 11 channel capable, but the 6012 only amplifies 9 of them.   The other two are pre-out only.   The 8015 amplifies all 11 channels, plus it has an extra pair for 13 total if you wanted to run more than one room.

Hobbs and Danny are top notch when it comes to customer service.   I received the replacement tweeter yesterday and fired up my shiny new Metcal MX-5210 last night.   It's been close to a decade since I last laid my hands on a Metcal, and I almost forgot how amazing and effortless soldering becomes.   Instant hot!   Speaker is reassembled and going though break-in as I type this.