[drjjpdc]

I was given an AR TT (original one with the 2 motors) and am modding it. I have talked to a number of people and advised me not to use the flimsy bottom because it is a significant source of vibration. I would like to know what you suggest for support on a wooden finished record cabinet. I am not horribly concerned about the finish, but without a flat surface on the bottom of the TT, I don't think any type of round ball would work.

John

[Wayner]

The 2 motor version is the earliest version and not very reliable. The smaller motor was used to get the larger motor going in the right direction. I suggest first step is to find a replacement motor. I doubt if they are working properly now.

Wayner

[Herbie]

I would like to know what you suggest for support on a wooden finished record cabinet

Regular Tenderfoot isolation feet always work very well with AR turntables. On at each corner should be perfect. (Full-size Way Excellent II-2mm Turntable Mat always does very well with AR turntables, also.)

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

[drjjpdc]

Wayner,

Actually it is in great shape. I disconnected the starter motor and just use the bigger platter motor. I just give it a turn to help it. The plinth is the original solid wood and not veneer. It has such a simple but classic look. Thanks for the tip on the tenderfeet, Steve.

[Wayner]

OK, your lucky. I'd still be on the watch out for a new motor. The Hurst 3001-001 is a replacement, at about $56, ot has the exact shaft for your pulley. It is not shielded as well as the (Haydon) motor. I don't think that motor was a Haydon, but can't remember.

Anyway, sounds good.

If you do remove the bottom board, remember that there is live current down there. I'd at least try to figure out how to cover up the switch and switch capacitor.

My 2 cents.

Wayner

[drjjpdc]

Waymer,

Thanks. When it is all done, I'll take some pics. The tenderfeet sound good. I've already drilled and countersunk holes for the RCA's and AC Cord. Bearings were oiled and underneath was covered with an isolation compound by a friend of mine, better than Mortite. I found/bought an extra XA headshell (hard to find) and will start looking for a new motor too.

JJP

[Wayner]

Frank Van Alstine has published tweaks for the AR table and arm you may want to read. It's in a section on his website called Audio Basics. Not sure of what exact year, but it is one of the first ones. www.avahifi.com


Sorry Herbie! OK, to give Herbie a plug, I use his tube dampers on my Ultravalve power amp, hows that.

Wayner

[drjjpdc]

Waymer,

Thanks for the Van Alistine info. Actually the best info site for AR TT's that I found is Vinyl Nirvana.

http://www.vinylnirvana.com/

Herbie's tube dampers are the bomb. I have them on my AI3A preamp and my Quicksilver V4 input & driver tubes. I have to prioritize what things I buy from Herbie next. I want to buy some component isolation stuff, some speaker stuff on my carpet/floor and my KT88 tubes on my Quickies (8 of them). Choices, Choices. 

[Wayner]

Frank doesn't try to sell you anything in his.

[drjjpdc]

Yes but I don't hold that against the guy with VN (Dave, I think). Especially since actual parts are very difficult to find, if at all. The wealth of information on the site regarding AR TT's is nowhere else to be found.

The sections on rewiring an arm, changing motors with pictures are invaluable. I am not spending huge bucks because this is a second system and I do not need the latest T-brace for 300-400 bucks. But anyone with an AR TT should have this site bookmarked, in my opinion.