AudioCircle
Industry Circles => Daedalus Audio => Topic started by: Daedalus Audio on 30 Jul 2015, 05:18 am
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We've been working on some designs for isolation under equipment and speakers, these are the new isolation footers for amplifiers etc.
We combined dissimilar materials, thick aluminum, cherry, brass and steel bearings with excellent results. They work! :thumb:
Now we need a name for them and I know how talented everyone here is in that area. :D
Ideas please?
Thanks
the one with the black on top is upside down... they can have felt on the bottom.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125482)
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Hi Lou,
In keeping: Daidala, of course.
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Sandalia. The Greek word for sandals which the ancient Greeks wore on their feet.
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I suck at naming things --except cats-- but I look forward to more info, pricing and better pics... I feel safe saying go ahead and save me a set of these. Im happy to support and give then a try.
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I suck at naming things --except cats-- but I look forward to more info, pricing and better pics... I feel safe saying go ahead and save me a set of these. Im happy to support and give then a try.
Thanks Jason! These will definitely ship with a trial period for return, I wouldn't want anyone to get them and feel they don't work in their system or are not worthwhile etc.
We are still refining the build process etc to try to bring the costs down, at this time it looks like they will be in the $100-$120 ea range with a lower direct sale price.
I was surprised at just how much they improved the sound, and am looking forward to the next show with them!
As for the "name", maybe we should just keep it simple and skip the Greek mythology this time? ie: Daedalus Audio Resonance Control?
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Short version, Darc. D.A.R.C.
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How about Cherry Isolators or Iso Cherries.
Do we get a free set if you use our suggestion?
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Sandalia. The Greek word for sandals which the ancient Greeks wore on their feet.
In the portuguese language Sandalia are 1 sandal, a half pair.
Sandalias are 2, a pair.
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126233)
Mission style rack, cable organizer and Daedalus isolation Devices on their way to the Capital Audio Fest!
along with Modwright DAC, new Wywires Diamond cables and our Power Broker
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I think the name will be Daedalus isolation Devices.... D.i.D.
hmm looks like a weird emoticon???
comments?
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Oooo. What's the big blue one sitting on the rack shelf?
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126233)
Mission style rack, cable organizer and Daedalus isolation Devices on their way to the Capital Audio Fest!
along with Modwright DAC, new Wywires Diamond cables and our Power Broker
That rack looks just like mine. :D
What are the dimensions of the cable organizer, especially the bottom shelf?
Thanks Lou
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That rack looks just like mine. :D
What are the dimensions of the cable organizer, especially the bottom shelf?
Thanks Lou
Can I take a guess at the dimensions? "Whatever you want them to be." :lol:
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Can I take a guess at the dimensions? "Whatever you want them to be." :lol:
correct :D
this is is about 20"x20" sized for a Furman SPR-20i
the bars are in slots so they can be positioned perfectly to the rack. I'll try to get pictures from the show with the whole setup in use.
the "blue one" is an isolator in it's blue cloth bag.
thanks,
lou
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Got to be 'Hermes' with those winged footers - http://hermesmercury.weebly.com/life-story-about-hermesmercury.html
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Angel Toes.
charles
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A riff off Rollo:
D-Toes
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Atlas - holding up the world
Then again that was his punishment
Atlas Isolation Footers
Atlas Isolation Device
DID works
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The Daedalus Isolation Devices (DID) work better than any isolation devices I have used or heard. I was present in the main Daedalus/ModWright/WyWires room (Iris) during several demos listening with and without the DID. You could hear the improvement with the first few notes and it was not subtle. Made me a believer--big time.
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The Daedalus Isolation Devices (DID) work better than any isolation devices I have used or heard. I was present in the main Daedalus/ModWright/WyWires room (Iris) during several demos listening with and without the DID. You could hear the improvement with the first few notes and it was not subtle. Made me a believer--big time.
I was there too, and I normally don't buy into stuff like isolation woo products. But damn if it didn't work and work very well. Darn it, I thought I was done spending money on my system! :lol:
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The Daedalus Isolation Devices (DID) work better than any isolation devices I have used or heard. I was present in the main Daedalus/ModWright/WyWires room (Iris) during several demos listening with and without the DID. You could hear the improvement with the first few notes and it was not subtle. Made me a believer--big time.
+1
Could definitely hear a difference for the better and that was just with the dac when I was in there. Made me wonder how the sound would have changed if all the equipment didn't have the DID's. Good job Lou!
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Thanks Jason! These will definitely ship with a trial period for return, I wouldn't want anyone to get them and feel they don't work in their system or are not worthwhile etc.
We are still refining the build process etc to try to bring the costs down, at this time it looks like they will be in the $100-$120 ea range with a lower direct sale price.
I was surprised at just how much they improved the sound, and am looking forward to the next show with them!
As for the "name", maybe we should just keep it simple and skip the Greek mythology this time? ie: Daedalus Audio Resonance Control?
is that price for a set or just one
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is that price for a set or just one
It says 'ea' or each- here's the web page - http://www.daedalusaudio.com/DiD.html
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Excited to receive my 6 DiDs on order...
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Excited to receive my 6 DiDs on order...
Close to $1000 bucks for six! :o :scratch:
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Lou is offering them at an introductory price of $312 for a set of 3. More bang for your buck than a cable upgrade imho.
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Close to $1000 bucks for six! :o :scratch:
Lou is a dealer of mine and I trust what he builds and what he offers. I have had/tried footed that cost much more. I have read a bit about this subject and believe in the construction of these. Besides, a $300 tweak added to a quality system is all part of it --getting the most out of our gear.
I ordered 6 so I could experiment with two components. I thought how bummed I would be to have missed the sale price but still wanting another set. No brainer with a 30 day trial.
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I was there too, and I normally don't buy into stuff like isolation woo products. But damn if it didn't work and work very well. Darn it, I thought I was done spending money on my system! :lol:
I'm late to the commenting, but +1 in spades. I heard the setup at RMAF, with everything isolated and then with the isolation devices gradually being taken away, component by component. It was dead obvious how well these things work.
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OK, I guess they work with highly resolving systems. It's just the price that puts me off. For instance, you would be able to buy a very fine sub, like a Rythmik, for one grand. However, since most the Daedalus customers probably have tens of thousands invested in their rigs, I guess one grand here and there for that last 1 percent of SQ is no big deal.
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Yes they do work with "highly resolving systems", those are the systems we build.
And it is more than just the last 1%, the improvement is generally much more than an after market power cord and yet for the cost of a power cord.
Personally I don't see these as a "tweek" but necessary to any high end system, much the way good cables are.
We are in the first production run and more people will be receiving these in the next week so I'm sure there will be more comments.
thanks,
lou
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I ordered six DIDs to go under my two Doshi mono blocks. Thanks Lou!
They sit on a Silent Running Audio (SRA) Craz isolation rack so I will be very interested to hear the additional focus on vibration dampening with the DIDS.
One area that good vibration control will affect is the decay of a note in time. This is most apparent on piano runs where if the equipment is isolated properly the individual notes with be more distinct and separate from each other. This translates to all sound produced and very key harmonics and resonant frequencies and results in better imaging, cleaner separation of instruments and even more lively dynamics. It is very noticable
Cant wait
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I ordered six DIDs to go under my two Doshi mono blocks. Thanks Lou!
They sit on a Silent Running Audio (SRA) Craz isolation rack so I will be very interested to hear the additional focus on vibration dampening with the DIDS.
One area that good vibration control will affect is the decay of a note in time. This is most apparent on piano runs where if the equipment is isolated properly the individual notes with be more distinct and separate from each other. This translates to all sound produced and very key harmonics and resonant frequencies and results in better imaging, cleaner separation of instruments and even more lively dynamics. It is very noticable
Cant wait
You are spot-on here with your comments. This is exactly what the DIDs are doing... Someone recently told me that besides clarity, footers won't do that much other than change the tonal character / tonal shift of the overall sound. Not true with these DIDs.
I have tried a half dozen footers over the past few years or so, including Stillpoint Ultras(!) and the DIDs are the first ones to do NO harm to the sound I know in my room. And the first footers to do great with bass, too. Micro dynamics were a surprise, as well.
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Interesting. Has anyone had a chance yet to compare them to Herbie's footers?
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Interesting. Has anyone had a chance yet to compare them to Herbie's footers?
I have and it is night and day. I compared them to the footers and to audio point brass cones. The improvement in clarity, focus and detail was immediately apparent with the DIDs.
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You are spot-on here with your comments. This is exactly what the DIDs are doing... Someone recently told me that besides clarity, footers won't do that much other than change the tonal character / tonal shift of the overall sound. Not true with these DIDs.
I have tried a half dozen footers over the past few years or so, including Stillpoint Ultras(!) and the DIDs are the first ones to do NO harm to the sound I know in my room. And the first footers to do great with bass, too. Micro dynamics were a surprise, as well.
Hi Jason
good to hear! my DIDs are in the mail. Which components are you using them on?
Interesting. Has anyone had a chance yet to compare them to Herbie's footers?
I have and it is night and day. I compared them to the footers and to audio point brass cones. The improvement in clarity, focus and detail was immediately apparent with the DIDs.
Has anyone used the DIDs under their speaker riggers?
how much of the overall focus is that? I imagine the source and preamp components to be the most sensitive - particularly tube based products - high gain phono pre the most
I have the Herbie's giant gliders under my speaker riggers on top of medium thick berber carpet on a cement slab
The Herbies work great for speaker positioning
I plan to use my 6 DIDs under my tube mono blocks
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I'm fascinated by these. However I simply think the price is wrong. But that doesn't mean it's not correct for the business model as is.
I wouldn't pay anyone less than $20/hr to be working in my shop. I wouldn't sell them at a loss. Also I wouldn't be opposed to normal markup, but might be willing to lower it some for volume.
My question is if the manufacturing of them is geared to sell only a few? Are they only meant to be sold to people that own the big D speakers? That's a mistake I think, personally. If they're so good I'd rather sell them at $40 a pop (+ shipping), let's say you sell a good 5,000 (maybe to distributors, which would be ok for this item). That's $110,000 at 45% going to distributors, and the cash goes up if they're direct sales (why not sell several hundred at a show, pay for the room at RMAF?). So even so, after cost to make (if it can be brought down by producing more) you've still got $88,000. Where as at $160, if you manage to sell 200 of them you've got $32,000, and $25,600 profit after being made.
Obviously I'm unaware of what these cost to make, but with the right equipment one shouldn't have any trouble pumping them out for not too much $. And obviously both profit figures are where advertising and business costs not associated direct production come from.
If they really are better than power cable upgrades, why not give the incentive to load up on them with a price that has everyone buying? There's an awful lot of people that don't buy expensive power cables. Just think, the droves of people that can only afford Salk's great SongTowers, not the gorgeous Daedalus speakers, would be happy to get their hands on something affordable that really makes a difference; but $160 is just out of their conceptually appropriate price range.
I'm not an expert in feet, I just know that at a price where a person that isn't particularly wealth, but could buy a enough for a component every paycheck, they might have a bundle of them.
Sorry if I'm wildly off from the possibility of production costs, I'm just saying it seems like you're onto something that doesn't have to be so piddly for you, and out of reach for so many.
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Interesting. Has anyone had a chance yet to compare them to Herbie's footers?
I also have some Big Tall Tenderfoot footers. The Tenderfoot cleans up some grunge a component may have from vibrations, so it cleans up the sound some.
But the DIDs are in another league! They actually extracting more low-level information; detail, decay, ambience and spacial cues, along with the other stuff mentioned in the thread.
Hi Jason
good to hear! my DIDs are in the mail. Which components are you using them on?
I am using mine under tubed DAC and tubed preamp...
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I'll reply to Folsom's note about production and costs and please if I sound at all snarky that is not my intent, just trying to be straight forward.
First off, yes people should and do get $20 an hour in the shop but you are aware that one has to bill considerably more than that to cover the costs? Taxes, accountant, overhead, training and on and on. Pretty much the same applies to every cost of a product not just the labor, there are MANY hidden costs and when those are not covered then the business does not last which does no one any good. Bottom line is these are priced based on what they cost plus standard multipliers for overhead and distribution with a little in there for profit. It does have to be worthwhile,eh?
A little background on the making of things like this. If one is making something that is all metal or all wood it really isn't that hard to mass produce them (especially the metal parts) but combining the two types of material is another story. Trust me if you can sell these for $40 each I'll just OEM them from you and close my shop.
Bottom line as for the price point, this is what they cost me to bring them out and make it worthwhile, and as it is they cost far less than other devices that actually "work". There are a lot of inexpensive footers but they don't do much if anything and the ones that do really improve the sound cost upwards of $1,000 a set.
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Hi Jason
good to hear! my DIDs are in the mail. Which components are you using them on?
Has anyone used the DIDs under their speaker riggers?
how much of the overall focus is that? I imagine the source and preamp components to be the most sensitive - particularly tube based products - high gain phono pre the most
I have the Herbie's giant gliders under my speaker riggers on top of medium thick berber carpet on a cement slab
The Herbies work great for speaker positioning
I plan to use my 6 DIDs under my tube mono blocks
They are not for use with speakers. There are different forces at play and they really don't help under a speaker. That being said I have been working on a design that does work at least with my speakers. So far we are making good progress and should have some prototypes ready in a couple of months.
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Not snarky in the least!
My figures included 5x markup, standard, and for every reason conceivable. And for employee rate I simply meant that I wouldn't bring on someone paid a child's wage to make something cheaper; it's a requirement for me that anyone I'm working with be treated like an adult and that cost is part of operations and therefor pricing.
Like I was saying, I don't know that it's possible at all to make them cheaper that fits a respectable business model. But I am saying if there was a way I think everyone would benefit as opposed to primarily customers that buy your speakers. For someone's system to feature these they may be spending as much as they did on speakers.
I apologize, as I in no way mean to stir trouble here. These just look awesome, and clearly perform thus as well. They have to cost what they cost. I'm no different for pricing. Usually I'm arguing that everyone is trying to get something for nothing, and they should back off because those who make audio gear have to eat too.
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That's amazing isolator. I would name is Isotop if still possible.
Ben,
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What wood material is used to seat the bearing?
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What wood material is used to seat the bearing?
We use cherry. That and walnut are great tone woods. Maple is good as a shelf but for direct contact the cherry or walnut are preferred.
thanks
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We use cherry. That and walnut are great tone woods. Maple is good as a shelf but for direct contact the cherry or walnut are preferred.
Interesting... due to the hardness of the wood? Red Maple is very close to Black Walnut and Cherry in hardness, vs. the much harder Hard (Sugar) Maple.
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Interesting... due to the hardness of the wood? Red Maple is very close to Black Walnut and Cherry in hardness, vs. the much harder Hard (Sugar) Maple.
most hardwoods are fairly close in hardness etc but all sound radically different in instruments.... people have been rating the woods for under electronics for decades and cherry always comes out at the top of the list.
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Hey Lou,
Is there a weight limit for the DiDs? I think I read on the flyer or in a post that they are fine for amps but I am not finding it. Mine amp is 60lbs. Is that fine to try?
Jason
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We use cherry. That and walnut are great tone woods. Maple is good as a shelf but for direct contact the cherry or walnut are preferred.
thanks
This statement got my curiosity. Slightly aside from the DiDs, does the customer's choice between cherry and walnut affect the tonal qualities of your speakers noticeably? I know it may very well be splitting hairs, but from a purely sonic perspective, do you have a preference in building your speakers for one wood over another? Regarding walnut in the same vein, is there a difference in sound between the ebonized walnut and that treated with the standard finish?
Thanks for briefly humoring what may be an off question. :)
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Hey Lou,
Is there a weight limit for the DiDs? I think I read on the flyer or in a post that they are fine for amps but I am not finding it. Mine amp is 60lbs. Is that fine to try?
Jason
I have them under my ModWright KWA 150SE and it weighs 85 lbs. They seem to work just fine.
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I have them under my ModWright KWA 150SE and it weighs 85 lbs. They seem to work just fine.
Great! Thanks for the post, Laura! Now if I can only get to and lift the back of my amp...
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Great! Thanks for the post, Laura! Now if I can only get to and lift the back of my amp...
That was the hardest part.
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I have them under my ModWright KWA 150SE and it weighs 85 lbs. They seem to work just fine.
Have you tried using more than 3?
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Have you tried using more than 3?
No
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I used some blocks of wood, old rubber pad and longer pieces of scrap wood to slowly jack and block my amp up by my self. I was actually using wooden blocks from my child hood play set. Nothing fancy just a little here and there. Glad I had Tonka trucks as a kid and not a tablet.
I will get to do this again when I order my DiDs :thumb:
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This statement got my curiosity. Slightly aside from the DiDs, does the customer's choice between cherry and walnut affect the tonal qualities of your speakers noticeably? I know it may very well be splitting hairs, but from a purely sonic perspective, do you have a preference in building your speakers for one wood over another? Regarding walnut in the same vein, is there a difference in sound between the ebonized walnut and that treated with the standard finish?
Thanks for briefly humoring what may be an off question. :)
no worries, people always ask that and it is a good question. The different wood choices for the speaker make no discernible tonal difference. They are all relatively close in density and there is a ton of bracing inside the cabinets so there is almost no resonance.
thanks,
lou
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Hey Lou,
Is there a weight limit for the DiDs? I think I read on the flyer or in a post that they are fine for amps but I am not finding it. Mine amp is 60lbs. Is that fine to try?
Jason
we have used them under the new Modwright mono blocks which are over 120lbs, three of them should support 200 lbs with no problems. If your amp is larger than that use four. :icon_lol:
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I received 6 DIDs this weekend.
Very nice build, can't wait to hear them
My amps have pointed feet (rounded a little at bottom)
Should I put the small felt stick ons on top of the cherry to avoid scratches or does that affect the coupling?
It looks like from the pictures you are actually not using the components footers but have the DIDS right under the base of the component
Thanks
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I received 6 DIDs this weekend.
Very nice build, can't wait to hear them
My amps have pointed feet (rounded a little at bottom)
Should I put the small felt stick ons on top of the cherry to avoid scratches or does that affect the coupling?
It looks like from the pictures you are actually not using the components footers but have the DIDS right under the base of the component
Thanks
I took the footers (spikes) off of my ModWright KWA150SE so the DIDs were flush against the bottom of the amp and the spikes did not get in the way. That was Lou's recommendation.
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Well, I've got 3 sets on order. I've tried other ball bearing/wood devices, and while they helped open up my AtmaSpere amps, I couldn't hear a difference on any of my other gear. It will be interesting to see what these do.
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I received 6 DIDs this weekend.
Very nice build, can't wait to hear them
My amps have pointed feet (rounded a little at bottom)
Should I put the small felt stick ons on top of the cherry to avoid scratches or does that affect the coupling?
It looks like from the pictures you are actually not using the components footers but have the DIDS right under the base of the component
Thanks
I put the felt on the DiDs to avoid any residual surface to surface interaction/vibration. Worked better in my system.
Since the DiDs do not go under stock footers and they go under the chassis of component, there is no reason to remove the stock footers IF the DiDs are tall enough to let the stock footers float.
Best of luck!
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I placed the DIDs under the edges of my 65 lb Doshi mono blocks
I have the fronts hanging over about 3/8s of an inch
Perfectly raised the rounded spikes off the rack
The DIDs give the amps an elegant look
can't wait to hear how they enhance the sound
These are very substaintially put together
I think I am going to get another set to try in various places in my system
under the cd dac and pre
It will be fun to explore the benefits with each component
The outboard dac used for brighter cds doesn't have any isolation
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=133484)
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We are sending out a lot of the DiDs and have not finished the instruction cards for them, so here is card with the basics.
thanks!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=133581)
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Formatting is a bit off, Lou. Maybe it needs to be a PDF first or something?
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Thanks! it's been a long day.......
A few typos, too. You may want to proof again after a good night's sleep :wink:
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A few typos, too. You may want to proof again after a good night's sleep :wink:
always helpful to mention the typos
thanks
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Have mine under my mono blocks - natural tonality in spades
I have another set coming to experiment with sources and the pre amp
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I have a set under each AtmaSphere amp. I haven't had a chance to do much critical listening, but so far I like what I'm hearing. Because I need my amps a little higher, the DIDs are actually on top of some other ball-bearing isolation devices (Isopods) that I'll be reviewing at some point.
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They are not for use with speakers. There are different forces at play and they really don't help under a speaker. That being said I have been working on a design that does work at least with my speakers. So far we are making good progress and should have some prototypes ready in a couple of months.
Lou, Can you give us some insights on your current thinking of what types of devices work for your speakers?
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Lou, Can you give us some insights on your current thinking of what types of devices work for your speakers?
We are currently working on prototypes for speakers, so far so good :thumb:
We should have a couple variations available in about two months.
thanks,
lou
ps I have had one person put the DiD's under their platform that their TT is on and they said it worked out great. I would love to get more feedback on that if others get a chance to try?
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ps I have had one person put the DiD's under their platform that their TT is on and they said it worked out great. I would love to get more feedback on that if others get a chance to try?
That's next on my list...
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We are currently working on prototypes for speakers, so far so good :thumb:
We should have a couple variations available in about two months.
thanks,
lou
Good to hear, Lou. We'll stay tuned for the next progress report.
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ok here is what will go to print for inclusion with the DiDs.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=134799)
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Got mine today. They look great. Need to decide which piece of equipment goes first - my amp, preamp, or phono preamp?
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Try them all out
Are you using tubes? Generally they are the most sensitive
My guess would be the pre amp
What gear are you using?
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Anyone have dimensions on these?
I need some footers for my Lampizator DAC, which has some long native feet installed.
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Anyone have dimensions on these?
I need some footers for my Lampizator DAC, which has some long native feet installed.
they are 1 7/16" tall
is that tall enough?
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they are 1 7/16" tall
is that tall enough?
They just might be. I tried some Herbies Tall Tender Feet which are 1.18 inches, and they were just a bit short.
How many would you recommend for a component that its over 20 inches long? Or, is three sufficient for everything?
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Try them all out
Are you using tubes? Generally they are the most sensitive
My guess would be the pre amp
What gear are you using?
The amp should go first, maybe. AVA 600R; it's a hybrid with 12AT7s in the front. Then I think the XP-15 phono pre since it's dealing with very small signals. I guess the XP-20 might be last by that logic, but wouldn't doing the preamp first - even if the amp has tubes in it - make more sense?
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The amp should go first, maybe. AVA 600R; it's a hybrid with 12AT7s in the front. Then I think the XP-15 phono pre since it's dealing with very small signals. I guess the XP-20 might be last by that logic, but wouldn't doing the preamp first - even if the amp has tubes in it - make more sense?
It really varies for each system which component with DiDs makes the biggest difference. It seems that for some reason DAC's are first but I have heard it make a huge difference with some tube power amps.... I would through assumptions out the window and just try each piece.
thanks,
lou
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They just might be. I tried some Herbies Tall Tender Feet which are 1.18 inches, and they were just a bit short.
How many would you recommend for a component that its over 20 inches long? Or, is three sufficient for everything?
Three should be just fine, we have used three with much larger gear.
thanks,
lou
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Lou has obviously had a vast amount of experience developing, testing and demoing these
Being so system, rack and room dependent definitely try them with each component
trial and error - live with each for a few days
Note the changes with each then send Lou your next check for another order
Don't sell a phono pre short
Particularly if you are mostly analog.
The signal in a phono stage are the most sensitive and have the highest gain
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trial and error - live with each for a few days
Note the changes with each then send Lou your next check for another order
LoL! Thats just what I did! Waiting on set 3 now.
Anyone have dimensions on these?
I need some footers for my Lampizator DAC, which has some long native feet installed.
They are tall enough to work with Lampizator feet. I tried Big Tall Tenderfoot footers, too, and was bummed when they didn't work...
First set went to the tubed pre --no brainer. The second set went from CDP to Lampi L4G4 but ended up under SS amp. So like Lou said, ya never know! But I bet this third set will end up under the Lampi again.
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My third set just arrived
I have a lot of isolation already - so the tube Dac on a separate rack is the first piece I will evaluate
then the tube pre with phono stage, then the tube cd player
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Yesterday I received two sets of DiDs from Lou. I'm using them under my ModWright Oppo 105 and LS100. I put one set under the LS100 and listened. I could already hear a positive difference. Then I put the second set under the MW 105. Even larger and more noticeable difference using the two sets together. Immediately evident and not something I had to strain to hear like some accessory or cable upgrades I've done in the past. I agree with the other positive comments here. The improvement in focus was what I noticed most - along with improved clarity and frequency extension. I'm definitely a believer in these, and have already ordered another set for my PS 9.9 connected to the MW 105, as I believe adding more will continue to make improvements. Great job with these, Lou, and I highly recommend them!
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Yesterday I received two sets of DiDs from Lou. I'm using them under my ModWright Oppo 105 and LS100. I put one set under the LS100 and listened. I could already hear a positive difference. Then I put the second set under the MW 105. Even larger and more noticeable difference using the two sets together. Immediately evident and not something I had to strain to hear like some accessory or cable upgrades I've done in the past. I agree with the other positive comments here. The improvement in focus was what I noticed most - along with improved clarity and frequency extension. I'm definitely a believer in these, and have already ordered another set for my PS 9.9 connected to the MW 105, as I believe adding more will continue to make improvements. Great job with these, Lou, and I highly recommend them!
Yep, my experience with 3 sets mirrors this! In addition, I am hearing better timbre in voices and bass. Glad I ordered all 3 sets during the intro pricing period! :D
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Great quote from Positive Feedback!
Thank you David!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=136658)
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I've had the opportunity now to do some more listening with my third set of DiDs under my PS 9.9 and the improvements that I noticed with the first two sets continue to grow. I'm hearing even more clarity, extension, spaciousness, and a longer more natural decay of notes. I'm very pleased with the easily noticeable improvements, and the DiDs were well worth the investment in my system. Thanks Lou, and congratulations - these are definitely going to be a big hit!
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http://positive-feedback.com/audio-discourse/audio-ramblings-the-daedalus-audio-did-ifi-usb-and-dc-ipurifiers-and-modified-rega-arm-from-audiomods/ (http://positive-feedback.com/audio-discourse/audio-ramblings-the-daedalus-audio-did-ifi-usb-and-dc-ipurifiers-and-modified-rega-arm-from-audiomods/)
thanks Dave!!!!
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I thought I'd pop back in and give an update... I moved my third set DiDs to under my Furman voltage regulator (as well an Uber Buss filter sits on top of the Furman) and wow! the noise floor is all but gone! I am very surprised how well the DiDs are working under my power products. Almost as much positive difference than under the preamp. Having such a low noise floor now revealing so much musical detail, my wishing and wanting for a new DAC has subsided.
Happy listening folks!
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Howdy. I'm curious, can the Daedalus Audio Isolation devices be used under speakers? I have book shelf speakers on a long shelf that also holds my turntable and amp... I'm looking for a way to isolate the vibrations from the speakers... Obv. the best way is to put them on the floor but I'm dealing with some space constraints! Anyway, let me know if the Daedalus Audio Isolation devices would work in this instance. Thank you.
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Howdy. I'm curious, can the Daedalus Audio Isolation devices be used under speakers? I have book shelf speakers on a long shelf that also holds my turntable and amp... I'm looking for a way to isolate the vibrations from the speakers... Obv. the best way is to put them on the floor but I'm dealing with some space constraints! Anyway, let me know if the Daedalus Audio Isolation devices would work in this instance. Thank you.
SO far I have found that they don't work well under speakers. I would use basic commercial isolation (cork/rubber) I have some or can get you the link.
The DiDs should help a lot under your amp and TT, we have a new TT platform which incorporates the DiDs and will be debuting that at the Newport show.
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Ohhh. maybe the Turntable platform would work! I am having problems with the speaker transferring resonance up through the table into the cart.
I'll come see you in Newport and check it all out. I'm sure the DAID will work under my tube amp on the same platform.
Thank you!
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Anyways for anyone that missed it,
Lou was down in the market place with his new isolation feet, the DiD's. He gave me a demo by taking them out from underneath a DAC and headphone amp, and putting them back in. It was abundantly clear they changed the sound. Lou isn't blowing smoke when he says it. I'm so glad he gave me the demonstration. It's funny because I actually noticed DiD's all over the show. The systems with them did lean towards a bit more refinement.
Sadly I'm not a headphones guy. They increased clarity so much on the higher registers that I could hear so much more information that was useless while wearing headphones... all that information is ques for imaging and such on a normal stereo but there is no such thing with headphones! The voices and other parts of the demo songs he played were however improved an obvious noticeable amount. The Modwright gear I was not a fan of however. It might have been a refreshing amount linearity, but it wasn't easy to listen to. Very dry, low body, tone was thin. Maybe it was just the headphone amp, I don't know. The real performers were the DiDs. Thanks to Lou for that, he's making the right choice to try and get the word out about them.
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Ohhh. maybe the Turntable platform would work! I am having problems with the speaker transferring resonance up through the table into the cart.
I'll come see you in Newport and check it all out. I'm sure the DAID will work under my tube amp on the same platform.
Thank you!
Lou made the first turntable platform for me and it definitely helped kill resonances and increased clarity and detail. Tighter bass too.
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Lou,
What is the wait time on 1 or 2 pairs of DiD's?
George
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Lou,
What is the wait time on 1 or 2 pairs of DiD's?
George
we can usually get those shipped the next day. :thumb:
I like that kind of lead time...
give me a call
thanks,
lou
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I'll call you later today Lou.
One set will go under Vinnie Rossi's LIO.
We can discuss the potential benefits under the amps (Atsah NC 1200's).
George
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I'm pretty sure Lou offers a money back so there isn't much to lose.
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$160 a pop?
Effective weight limit for each unit?
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Literature notes 3 units are adequate for up to 150 Lbs.
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Lou-
Is there any plan to offer the DiD in black? Just some black anodize. ;)
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Lou-
Is there any plan to offer the DiD in black? Just some black anodize. ;)
We have looked into that but because of the design and using wood parts it would be more expensive and I doubt people will pay for that option.
Good question though.....
thanks,
lou
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Hey Lou:
Are going to be at Capital Audiofest 2016? Mr. Jamison will be looking for you.
Tony C
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Hey Lou:
Are going to be at Capital Audiofest 2016? Mr. Jamison will be looking for you.
Tony C
Of course!!! one of my very favorite shows!
will be in room 323 with Border Patrol and Triode also will have a table in the Marketplace with Modwrights new Tryst headphone amp doing demos of the DiDs
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I met someone new at our New Orleans audiophile club meeting that I was hosting at my house last Thursday
He was very complimentary of my Ulysses and asked a number of questions
It turned out he has two sets of three DIDS
He also has a Mod-wright modded OPPO 105
wow
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We have looked into that but because of the design and using wood parts it would be more expensive and I doubt people will pay for that option.
Good question though.....
thanks,
lou
Lou,
Another vote for black.
I grabbed a set of DiD's from a friend who had an extra set and they sound great!
However, I really would love to have them in black.
Here is a pic:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=146852)
George
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Lou,
Another vote for black.
I grabbed a set of DiD's from a friend who had an extra set and they sound great!
However, I really would love to have them in black.
Here is a pic:
OK but as I said it will cost more, not sure how much but it may be substantial.
How much extra would you pay for black?
curious....
:scratch:
and thanks much for tryi8ng them :thumb: glad you like em. thanks!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=146852)
George
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Lou,
What does substantial mean?
If substantial meant double - no, I wouldn't pay that kind of premium.
While the DiD's are excellent and definitely improve the sound, they are already a good sized investment.
George
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what about a hollow sleeve of something black the DiD would sit within
that could be cheaply added and would provide the aesthetics sought.
Send me 12 units to test and I will write a review on AC.
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Lou,
What does substantial mean?
If substantial meant double - no, I wouldn't pay that kind of premium.
While the DiD's are excellent and definitely improve the sound, they are already a good sized investment.
George
It's not substantial to anodize. Maybe $10 - $20 each depending on quantity.
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It's not substantial to anodize. Maybe $10 - $20 each depending on quantity.
It all gets complicated when you mix wood and metal....
can't anodize after the wood is installed and may scratch the anodize when installing the wood ...bit of a catch-22 :scratch:
I may work out something but it would likely raise the cost from $160ea to $200-$250 ea.
(cost of anodize, additional labor, QC and 'lost/scratched' parts etc)
If enough people think that would be worth the additional $ then I can look into it. fair enough? :)
btw, There is no reason someone who wants them black or purple etc can't paint them... :wink:
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It all gets complicated when you mix wood and metal....
can't anodize after the wood is installed and may scratch the anodize when installing the wood ...bit of a catch-22 :scratch:
I may work out something but it would likely raise the cost from $160ea to $200-$250 ea.
(cost of anodize, additional labor, QC and 'lost/scratched' parts etc)
If enough people think that would be worth the additional $ then I can look into it. fair enough? :)
btw, There is no reason someone who wants them black or purple etc can't paint them... :wink:
Thanks for the post Lou.
That is indeed a substantial cost increase and I would really need to think about it.
George
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Thanks for the post Lou.
That is indeed a substantial cost increase and I would really need to think about it.
George
thanks for understanding. I really try to keep prices fair but I just can't lose money ....
If it were just the cost of anodize I would have those done in a heartbeat but it isn't that easy.
I'll look into this more and see if we can come up with a better option, I still doubt that anything can be done for less than an extra $40 each. remember this is a dealer item so their margin is reflected in the retail.
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A $4 can of spray paint from Wally World would work.
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How about you guys apply the paint, a nice even layer of flat black on the outer part only, for a nominal upcharge?
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It all gets complicated when you mix wood and metal....
can't anodize after the wood is installed and may scratch the anodize when installing the wood ...bit of a catch-22 :scratch:
I may work out something but it would likely raise the cost from $160ea to $200-$250 ea.
(cost of anodize, additional labor, QC and 'lost/scratched' parts etc)
If enough people think that would be worth the additional $ then I can look into it. fair enough? :)
btw, There is no reason someone who wants them black or purple etc can't paint them... :wink:
Should be easy enough to install the wood after with the proper press fit clearance. Not really a big deal.
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Silly question on painting...
Do I need to prime them, or do I just spray away?
Would I just use Rustoleum (or equivalent from HD)?
George
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Silly question on painting...
Do I need to prime them, or do I just spray away?
Would I just use Rustoleum (or equivalent from HD)?
George
Good questions.
use a metal primer first, then paint. Rustoleum etc should be fine, you could even use a pebble finish etc?
I would tape off the bottom and the inside though.
thanks,
lou
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Silly question on painting...
Do I need to prime them, or do I just spray away?
Would I just use Rustoleum (or equivalent from HD)?
George
Aluminum generally needs to be prepped with an etching/cleaning solution such as Phosphoric Acid based Alumiprep 33. http://www.merrittsupply.com/products/29493-alumiprep-33-aluminum-cleaner-conditioner.aspx.
Aluminum doesn't hold paint very well. It needs etching to get a grip.
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How about you guys apply the paint, a nice even layer of flat black on the outer part only, for a nominal upcharge?
I was afraid to say it! :lol:
I there a 'sticks to anything" high quality Krylon spray can that would work well?
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OK, I need a show of hands...
Is it worth an extra $40 each to have them in black?
I'm guessing that is the minimum it will have to be (hopefully I can find a way to make it less).
I have to hear that enough people would pay that much extra to get them in black.....
thanks,
lou
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I like them showing the way they are. and components are black.
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I make a lot of painted picture frames for ebay customers. Flat black krylon works the best, Rustolum runs too much. I spray metal, plastic, and wood frames. Take your time. Spray a thin coat of flat black and let dry for 20-30 minutes. Spray another thin coat and let that dry. Then if you want a glossier black, spray that on, but use flat black first.
Three fairly light coats shoulld do the job, and if the paint gets scratched up, steel wool and repaiint.
I think gold footers would also look cool with black, gold krylon is one of the easiest to use.
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Before:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=147090)
After:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=147091)
DiD-B:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=147092)
Would be much easier to do before they're assembled but now I don't have them starring at me anymore. :nono:
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I like the way that looks Jason. :thumb:
That said, I am not willing to pay an extra 25% on the list price to get black.
Looks like I will try the paint route...
George
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OK, I need a show of hands...
Is it worth an extra $40 each to have them in black?
I'm guessing that is the minimum it will have to be (hopefully I can find a way to make it less).
I have to hear that enough people would pay that much extra to get them in black.....
thanks,
lou
Lou,
After thinking about this, I have decided that an extra $40/each is too much for me.
I would pay an extra $20/each max.
George
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I like before :)
How do the Did's work? Is there some flex to the wood insert so that they are guaranteed flat against the chassis of components? I ask because not everything is perfect, ya know.....
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After:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=147091)
Would be much easier to do before they're assembled but now I don't have them starring at me anymore. :nono:
WAY better.
This looks much, much better. good job.
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I like the way that looks Jason. :thumb:
That said, I am not willing to pay an extra 25% on the list price to get black.
Looks like I will try the paint route...
George
agreed that looks great.
The problem with before assembly is that we press fit epoxy the wood into the metal and then sand the bottom to get a perfect face, after that they go on the metal lathe for polishing and removing any stray epoxy etc.
I may look into an autopaint shop doing a lacquer finish? I agree that it would have to be no more than $20 upcharge.
thanks,
lou
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I like before :)
How do the Did's work? Is there some flex to the wood insert so that they are guaranteed flat against the chassis of components? I ask because not everything is perfect, ya know.....
the wood/brass top piece sits on three bearings so that provides enough flex for a "less than perfect" surface.
feel free to call with any questions
360 312 3604
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Hey, Lou, I happened on this thread and followed along some of the questions about adding black color.
Am I reading the overview of your assembly process correctly in that the aluminum bases are as of now simply left polished raw aluminum? I know these are meant to have probably a very minimal amount of handling, but even so it would probably still be a good idea in terms of protecting both the surface polish as well as the aluminum itself over time to seal them in some way, even a gloss clear anno would probably be better than raw. I know you are an advocate of long-lasting products, so I thought I would toss in my $.02 worth. :thumb:
As an aside, I know a few truly talented artists in aluminum anodizing if you need some references for getting crazy with colors. Satin/dust or gloss finishes, solid colors, fades, splashes, acid washes, and all the above in combinations if someone wants to get really wild. :green:
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Anodizing might be the best option so that they have the least change in quality. Any clear coat will change them significantly by comparison; and wont turn out well since you can't coat the inside where the bearings touch meaning you can't make a seal.
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Hey, Lou, I happened on this thread and followed along some of the questions about adding black color.
Am I reading the overview of your assembly process correctly in that the aluminum bases are as of now simply left polished raw aluminum? I know these are meant to have probably a very minimal amount of handling, but even so it would probably still be a good idea in terms of protecting both the surface polish as well as the aluminum itself over time to seal them in some way, even a gloss clear anno would probably be better than raw. I know you are an advocate of long-lasting products, so I thought I would toss in my $.02 worth. :thumb:
As an aside, I know a few truly talented artists in aluminum anodizing if you need some references for getting crazy with colors. Satin/dust or gloss finishes, solid colors, fades, splashes, acid washes, and all the above in combinations if someone wants to get really wild. :green:
Actually the polished aluminum will do very well in the kind of environments they will be used. If they do begin to tarnish in ten years time then a quick polish with Mother's Polish will do the job.
I would love to do a black anodize but I don't know anyone that will do that after they are assembled, nor do I know what that would do to the wood? Anodizing before the press fitting and epoxying the wood, could be a nightmare as to keeping them clean and from being scratched.
Seems like it should be easy but....
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the wood/brass top piece sits on three bearings so that provides enough flex for a "less than perfect" surface.
feel free to call with any questions
360 312 3604
Thanks!!
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I just posted my thoughts on an isolation thread on audiogon
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/do-equipment-stands-have-an-impact-on-electronics#1358355
my comments - audiotomb
I have found two major products that have taken isolation to a great level in my system.
Silent Running Audio racks and isobases and Daedalus DIDs - Daedalus Isolation Devices footers. ....
.....
another isolation device that is garnering great attention is Lou Hinkley at Daedalus DIDs - Daedalus Isolation Devices. Lou who build's exceptionally crafted hardwood speakers has come up with isolation footers that work very effectively.
http://daedalusaudio.com/DiD.html
I have utilized these on my Billy Bags digital rack and they provide enhanced resolution, transparency and isolation with no changes in tonality. Lou's comments - Resonance control is crucial in the design of great speaker systems, and now we have applied that knowledge to isolation devices (footers) for components. These devices utilize dissimilar materials to dissipate resonance coupled with bearings to also isolate the electronic component from vibration. Precision made of highly polished billet Aluminum, solid Cherry and Brass with steel bearings.
Lou has been effectively bringing these to audio shows and demonstrating their impact by adding them component by component to the system. Then removing as well. The sonic benefits are very apparent.
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thanks!!!! :thumb:
btw, we have the first batch of speaker footers and will be sending some off for black anodize. I'll check on the possibility of doing that to the DiDs.
The speaker footers do not have any parts epoxied to them so it is an easy task to make them black.