Wood finishing

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salva

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Wood finishing
« on: 15 Aug 2004, 09:21 pm »
Hi, in the middle of the process of finishing my 2nd pair of 1801's, this time I've selected veneer as the finishing (on the first one I painted them). As veneer I've selected cherry, now, I've lots of doubts abt the finish ... Seems that there are 3 optins open those are:

First a "primer"" to close the "pores" on the wood .. then:

- Tint and Laquer
- Varnish with cherry tint
- Wax with cherry tint

I will like to have a good finish but perhaps not a "glossy" one, I like the caracter of the "raw" wood with good color.

What is your opinion abt finishes ?

Salva

SuperMart

Wood finishing
« Reply #1 on: 15 Aug 2004, 11:38 pm »
Hi Salva,

I recently completed a pair of AKSonics and went through the same decision process. I like a natural finish and wanted to preserve the grain. I opted for Danish Oil - I used a UK brand called "Rustins". I applied it with a rag and it's practically fool-proof. Ended up with about 5 coats -all you do is sand with progressively finer grades of wet and dry in between each coat. The final result is very natural, super smooth with a sheen which reveals the grain. Make sure you keep the room well ventilated during the application - something in the driers is quite potent and left me feeling quite odd! WAF was 100%, too. Good luck. I spent hours combing the Web for ideas and believe me there are heaps. I also asked knowledgeable friends and got even more................

salva

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Wood finishing
« Reply #2 on: 16 Aug 2004, 08:47 pm »
OK, this "Danish oil" is a new thing for me .. Is there posibility that you put a photo online so that I can get an Idea of what finish are we talking abt ?

Salva


EProvenzano

Wood finishing
« Reply #4 on: 17 Aug 2004, 04:43 am »
Here is the method I used to finish a new Birch Bedroom set.
The Wife loves it!

If I remember correctly Dave also used Watco Danish Oil for some of his first cabinet finishes, before switching to Laquer.

It's not an easy (read quick) process, but very striking and beautiful to touch in the end.

http://www.wwch.org/Technique/FinishesRL/OilFin.htm

salva

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Wood finishing
« Reply #5 on: 17 Aug 2004, 04:58 am »
Ah! ... I meant a photo of a cabinet finished with Danish oil .... I don't know if a photo will gime an Idea but will be a start.

Salva

Danberg

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Wood Finishing
« Reply #6 on: 17 Aug 2004, 05:05 am »
I have some experience in finishing (built furniture as a hobby years ago) before the audio bug bit me.

If you are going to use a "varnish" as the finish, I strongly recommend using a "sanding sealer" as your initial coat.  Laquer is NOT COMPATIBLE with a varnish finish. :nono:

The sanding sealer is very easy to work with.  After it dries, lightly sand with a 220 grit sandpaper (very fine).  The beauty of the sanding sealer is the ease with which is sandable.  In addition, it will turn into a milky white dust as you sand, giving visable indication of when to STOP SANDING. This helps prevent sanding through the finish into the initial stain coat, a real no no if you don"t want the final project to look splotchy.

After the 1st and following varnish coats, use a "block sander" (a rubber block that the sandpaper attaches to .. available at local hardware or home center for about $7) to smooth and give bite to the next coat of varnish. Use 220 grit sandpaper for these coats also.  The total # of coats is up to you but I would recommend at least 4 coats of varnish. The more coats the "deeper" the final finish will appear (I used to use and liked the look of 7 to 10 coats).

The final step will be to hand rub using "pumice stone" and then follow with "rotten stone."   IMPORTANT - DO NOT DO THIS STEP OF POLISHING UNTIL THE VARNISH HAS HAD TIME ENOUGH TO FULLY "CURE"...AT LEAST 30 DAYS!  Failure to do so will yield a CLOUDY FINISH which you will not want at all!!!  Use a "felt" block for these stages and use oil for a lubricant along with the pumace & rotten stone powders.

The last two steps are quite labor intensive but will guarentee a very professional looking finish.  Working with the flat surfaces of the speaker will make this entire project easier.  The longer you rub with the "rotten stone" the glossier and deeper the finish will appear.  You can add wax, but it will not be necessary or be of any advantage with this type of finish.

A good source for various finish techniques will be found in issues of "Americian Woodworker."  I recall an article 4 - 6 years ago that discussed in detail the advantages / disadvantages of different finish techniques and various product applications in both appearance and longevity.

By the way I used  "tung oil" to finish an older set of speakers about 2 years ago. With out a doubt a much easier application, but not the type of look I had hoped for.  The amout of coats you put on will determine how glossy the end finish will appear, but will not give you anywhere near the "depth" to the finish, that the varnish will.

Danberg

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Wood finishing
« Reply #7 on: 17 Aug 2004, 05:21 am »
Back again... I just read EProvenzano's recomendation on Watco Danish finish technique.  I fully agree using that type of technique will yield "beautiful results" and be easier than the varnish system I just described.  I see that a lot of the steps are quite similar.  It should save you the effort of so many coats of varnish.  As I described, the polish stages are the most time consuming but VERY IMPORTANT to the ultimate result!  The instructions on the link that he provided were excellent!

bubba966

Wood finishing
« Reply #8 on: 17 Aug 2004, 05:39 am »
Quote from: EProvenzano
Here is the method I used to finish a new Birch Bedroom set.
The Wife loves it!

If I remember correctly Dave also used Watco Danish Oil for some of his first cabinet finishes, before switching to Laquer.

It's not an easy (read quick) process, but very striking and beautiful to touch in the end.

http://www.wwch.org/Technique/FinishesRL/OilFin.htm


Fairly decent technique. I really don't care for Watco Danish Oil though as I find the varnish in it to make it a pain to work with & get the results that I want.

Daly's doesn't have varnish in their Danish Oil (or didn't when I used it last a decade ago). Much better to work with.

Inscrutable

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Wood finishing
« Reply #9 on: 17 Aug 2004, 09:40 am »
Woodnet forums have lots of good info and advice-givers (not that you don't already have enough great advice here.  :wink: