[Bhu108]

Though bi-wiring didn't make sense to me, years ago I borrow some MIT "Firehose sized" Cables that were bi-wired and they sound better than  what I was using (lower level Audioquest). I got a log pair of expensive XLO' Bi-wire s that were on the used market for a great price, from A dealer in LA. They were a huge improvement of the the MIT's.  they are super stiff and a royal pain is the butt to deal with.  I still don't think bi-wiring makes sense. I saw a youtube of  Danny Richie (GR Research) actually demonstrate why it is not a good idea by connecting a speaker cable to the FM antenna of a vintage receiver with a signal meter and  getting signal reading on the meter.
What are your experiences with Bi-wiring?
 My cables are factory attached at the the amp end  the of cable and separating the hollow core multi-strand expensive cable for an experiment is not a good option.

[WGH]

Results from bi-wiring are dependent on a speakers sensitivity and how low they go.

My Salk HT2-TL speaker's sensitivity is 88dB with strong bass down to 34Hz. The Seas Excel W18 magnesium cone drives need current to maximize their performance. I discovered a single run of Kimber 4VS attenuated the bass. The 4VS has an aggregate wire size of 13 AWG, a double run has an aggregate wire size of 10 AWG, which is the sweet spot for the HT2-TLs. My test recording was "Temple Caves" from Mickey Hart's Planet Drum. A single run of Kimber has pretty good bass, a double run made the single pane glazed windows in my old house rattle.

If your speakers don't have strong output below 40 Hz or you use a sub with a high level connection (amp) then the wire gauge may not make any difference and 13 AWG to 15 AWG may work just fine.


Our audio club recently auditioned the new Hapa Torsion 14 gauge UPOCC hand polished Copper and Torsion 15 gauge UPOCC Nano-polished Silver in two different systems. Both Eric and I found a single run of either cable attenuated the bass. Each of us came to this same conclusion separately while listening alone. Eric uses the 8 gauge speaker cable from GR Research.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=183932.msg1944092#msg1944092

The Hapa speaker cables are a lot better sounding than the Kimber but I would need a double run and have no idea what that would cost. The difference in sound between the two cables was not subtle either.

Read my review about Hapa Torsion speaker cable and bi-wiring using both the Torsion Copper and Silver cable in a hybrid lash up.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=183932.msg1944092#msg1944092

[toocool4]

Waste of money, if you want to Bi-Amp that is different and worth the money.
I fell for the hype years ago and tried bi-wiring, what a big let-down / rip-off. Bi-amping I noticed a huge night & day difference.

All said, you need to try for yourself and let your ears tell you.

[BobM]

As in mosty things ... it depends. My Apogee Duetta Sig's absolutely benefit from bi-wiring. All Apogees do, but then we are talking very inefficient speakers that drop down to a two ohm load. It is known and considered absolutely necessary to bi-wire Apogees. Your mileage may vary with other speakers.

[twitch54]

As in mosty things ... it depends. My Apogee Duetta Sig's absolutely benefit from bi-wiring. All Apogees do, but then we are talking very inefficient speakers that drop down to a two ohm load. It is known and considered absolutely necessary to bi-wire Apogees. Your mileage may vary with other speakers.

While I never owned Apogee's I did Maggie MG3.6's years back. With that being said while I never bi-amped them I could see the possibility of benefit. But bi-wire ?? Mostly snake oil BS IMO........

[FireGuy]

Double blind listening tests.  If, after this usually eye-opening event, you can determine the difference between bi and not bi-wiring, you're golden.  The answer is front and center.

[FullRangeMan]

I dont have this dilemma I run single driver