[Danny Richie]

Joey,

That will effect the response.

Use a mounting bourd from the speaker to the ceiling to mount it to that is the width of the speaker or about an inch wider to each side... and I'll will be fine.

[Joey Skinner]

Does anyone have a detailed cabinet construction sheet they can post here? I just ordered the parts for a pair of AV-1RS's and would like to start building the cabinets before the parts get here.

[Danny Richie]

See .pdf file of plans.

http://www.gr-research.com/pdf/av1rsbox.pdf

[Joey Skinner]

Do the cabinets need to be lined with foam and stuffed with polyfill?

[Danny Richie]

Stuffed with poly fill or fiberglass insolation.

[dalum]

Looking at the pics I think I just came up with a really neat idea!  Depending on your surround setup you circle the side and rear walls with the cabinates except every other one is a sconce (light)!  That way it will be uniforme around the room so you can make them pretty and stand out but they also shoot light up to light the theater.

[salva]

Hi, I understand that the main difference between the AV1RS and the regular AV1 is the crossover and box, the crossover does not have to have baffle step or take the bass reflex into consideration on the AV1RS.

Now, I am going to buy a pair of RS's, but I wonder if the result is not OK, a facing forward approach can be tried with the same crossover.

I thougth of that when I saw the this photos of the first try of RS's



So, will this be possible at all ?

Salva

[Danny Richie]

Hi, I understand that the main difference between the AV1RS and the regular AV1 is the crossover and box, the crossover does not have to have baffle step or take the bass reflex into consideration on the AV1RS.

This is true. A speaker mounted to a wall like this does not have baffle step loss, but it does have wall reflections and gain to deal with.

Now, I am going to buy a pair of RS's, but I wonder if the result is not OK, a facing forward approach can be tried with the same crossover.

No, Al built the boxes posted below by mistake. Aiming the drivers straight into the room will give you a really elevated response in the top end.

Below is a measured response of the A/V-1RS while being stand mounted and not on a wall.



As you can see that in order for a speaker to fire up allow for reflected energy then the response has to be adjusted so as to elevate the top end because the orientation of the speaker will limit the top end.

Aiming the speaker straight out into the room will require a different network design.

Plus having tried them that way and firing up too. I can tell you that the result was not even close. Up firing was A LOT better.

[Hank]

I've been away for awhile.  These are good-looking and should be good WAF-wise (you could also paint them your wall color for those wives that really want them to blend in.

Hey, don't forget about me in Austin.  I also build cabinets or completed speakers for Danny.

[IanS]

I'm almost done my RS's as well.  They cabinets are done and ready to be sanded and painted, and the crossovers are soldered.  

I was impressed at the quality of the drivers and the capacitors and inductors in the kit.  Very nice parts for such a reasonably priced kit.  

I'm going to paint them the color of my walls and will take some pictures when I'm done.

[Danny Richie]

Sounds great.

Please post pics and your impressions when completed. I'dd love to see them.

Thanks,

[IanS]

I'm about done, but I'm having a hard time securing the crossovers inside the cabinet.  

What is the typical way to do this?  The foil inductors are a bit more difficult to mount, because their wires don't have any support to them.  

Thanks, Ian

[Danny Richie]

I'm about done, but I'm having a hard time securing the crossovers inside the cabinet.

See pic:



I often mount it to a small sheet of thin MDF that fits perfectly in the bottom of the box. Then bond the whole thing into the bottom of the box with Silicon or Liquid Nails.

The foil inductors are a bit more difficult to mount, because their wires don't have any support to them.

Don't use the wire leads from the inductors to support them in any way. Cut them down to about 3/8" long and solder the OFC wire to them. You can even use some small zip ties to stress relieve them so you won't pull on the wire against the foil lead.

Mount the inductors as per the pic.

Easy now huh?  

[IanS]

The picture helped a lot.  You should put it at the bottom of the other construction pics.  I considered the zip-tie method, but I wasn't sure.  I have some extra 1/4" MDF, so I should be able to do this with no problem.

I left the inductors at about 1" of lead, which is a bit much.  I didn't snip the capacitor leads down at all either, so mine don't look as tidy as yours.  

Is there any concern about mutual inductance of the inductors?  I thought you were always supposed to mount inductors at 90 degrees to one another?

-Ian

[IanS]

I have finished them.  I did an initial test, and they appear to be working correctly.  



I would like some advice on where to place them.  I have sort of an odd room, hence why I chose the RS, because I don't have any space behind the couch we usually watch TV/Movies on.  

I put 2 pictures of the speakers, which are painted with the same paint as the walls here: http://www.bethcutler.com/~swett/gallery/av1rs

And I put 2 pictures of my room from different angles so you can give me advice on where to put the surround speakers.  

The 3 main options I can see are:
1) Putting them directly above the two edges of the couch.  I'm not sure how far they would need to be from the door on one side and the wall on the other.  My concern with this is whether they're sufficiently separated to give me good right-left separation.  

2) Putting them on the side walls, about a foot out from the back wall the couch is on.  This would be behind the open door in the picture, but obviously I'd close that for movie watching.  My concern with this is whether the little wall sticking out is large enough.  Its only 2', so if I put it a foot from the back wall, the speaker would only be a few inches from the corner.  

3) Put them to the left of the open door you see in the first room picture and on the farthest wall you can see a little of on the right of the second picture.  This would be about the same distance from the couch in both directions, but the wall could be somewhat in the way and I'm concerned that would put the speakers too far forward.  

I'd like to listen to all of these, but I don't have two people to hold them for me for an extended period of time while I A/B test with all my favorite movies

Thanks, ian

[RAW]

Ian
Looking good.
For a location.
Put them on the side walls about 10-12 inches away from the rear wall corners.
So yes you will have one (left rear when sitting) that will be closest.
But with your reciever you should be able to set the delay to max on one and full on the other this will get you in the park anyway.

You are better off to do this as the partern these if mounted direct above your head you will or may miss the out put of the surround mix completely.

We have them in the demo room on the side walls for the 6.1 and 7.1 demo.


Just my 2 cents


Al

[Danny Richie]

Good advice from Al.

Also, don't forget to mount the center of the tweeter about 16" from the ceiling.

[IanS]

Thanks for the good advice.  It was what I was leaning towards, but I wanted confirmation.  

Al, those are a lot prettier than mine, but I think mine will blend into the wall color nicely.  

I did remember the distance from the ceiling already, but thanks for the reminder.  

Overall, the project took a week of evenings for me.  An evening of cutting, and evening of routing, 2 of sanding and painting, an evening of soldering, and then one more to put the crossovers and drivers in.  This seems like a reasonable time investment to me, and it was a fun, manageable project.  Though if you didn't have a router, you would definitely want to buy the baffles from GR.  

-Ian