Thanks John.
Marbles (and I think tkp might gain from this as well?),
-having a flat FR with a new XO and having the ability to taylor the speaker with a variable L-pad is what I'm going for.
Ah good. I think I get what you want.
As far as more than 5 resister selections are concerned, the problem is one of increments, obviously the more, the better.
Is it as simple as more=better?
Lets say you take the two extremes of the 24 steps you first mentioned and turned that into 5 steps.
5 is MUCH coarser that 24 at face value, BUT how does each step actually measure and sound? Maybe each step equals 1.4db or something like that.
I really don’t believe people are hearing changes in 40th of a db steps or whatever each click of an L-pad equals so you’d just be getting steps that make a fairly subtle but real diff. with a few switch settings.
Or that’s my theory that should pan out in measurements/testing.
-It sounded a bit bright at first and we could turn the tweeter pot down just a tad and get it to sound better within seconds.
Good example and relates to what I mentioned about choosing the electronics that match a flat output 'to your taste'.
This cable seems to have caused the response to tip up on the top end.
1). After breaking the cable in (if it wasn’t?) maybe you’d just want to turn the pot back to how you had it if it mellowed out?
2). If the speaker weren’t adjustable AND the cable was broken in I think you’d know that you simply don’t happen to like this cable in your system because it tipped up the top end in a way you didn’t like.
3). Turning up the super tweeter (I only ‘assume’ that’s what you mean you did?) a bit, while it seemed to counter the cable’s brightness couldn’t technically have countered what the cable did.
At best it kinda/sorta did because both tweaks were in about the same general freq. area.
This isn’t me saying ‘so you shouldn’t have done that’, but merely trying to show how it’s not quite the fix that some I think have the impression it is.
With only two resister choices up, and two down, it really takes luck to get it right quickly and without an operation on the L-pad to change resisters, defeating the whole purpose of it.
That sounds like you’ve made up you mind already?
Again... what if you could be shown that it could be enough steps to distort the output from flat to suit your needs and measures very subtle meaning any setting would still look plenty flat and flatter than stock?
IMHO the L-Pad, while colors the sound a bit for the mid pannel and high, offers people like myself a way to taylor the sound to my taste and to counter-act the room they are in. Obviously, acoustic treatment is the way to go but my family hapiness comes before audio.
I can totally understand people not in many cases being able to treat a room like they'd really like to.
This alone kinda defeats buying really top notch high end audio gear though.
And as I wrote... you just can't counter a room's problems by adjusting the broad range of the mid panel.
If you can explain in your own example/room/system the room problem/freq. peak/dips you have and how specifically the mid and super tweeter pots counter these problems I'd like to hear it.
I've never heard anyone who's been able to explain how they do this though have seen many claim just what you've wrote. No offence. I'd just like you to explain if you can.
