[tjt123]

Hey Danny, I've finally started on the speakers (room is almost done  ).

Anyhow, I'm working on the 4 AV1-RS speakers right now and I have a couple simple (I think) questions.

The seating and layout in my theater will place the Left and Right Surround a bit behind the first row of seating but unfortunately a bit in front of the listener in the second row (compromises  ). 

The Left Back and Right Back speakers will be on the back wall roughly centered behind the seating area with 3-4 feet of separation between them.  The back row of seating will be virtually up against the back wall.

First question:  As the front bezels of the AV1-RS are symmetrical (e.g. I can mount them with the tweeter on the left or the right as the speaker hangs on the wall), it occurs to me that there may be some advantage to having the tweeter facing either the front or the rear of the theater for the side surrounds, and having both tweeters facing the inside or outside for the back speakers.  So is there any advantage to creating true Left and Right speakers by turning the Bezels 180 degrees or should I just make them all identical by mounting the bezel with the Woofer on the right (as the speaker hangs on the wall) as shown in your glue up diagram?

Second question:  I have extra No-Rez since I originally ordered the OB7+ but am now building the OB7.  I assume that it would be a good thing to put some inside the AV1-RSs.  If so, should I put some on all the internal sides (B, D, E, and the two G sides)?  Should any go on the back of the front Bezel?  If not, which sides should get it?

Last question (for now):  Is there any value (other than perhaps aesthetically) to doing a round-over on the edges of the front bezel.  I've generally seen this recommended however with this thing pointed at the ceiling I'm guessing it makes a lot less difference, and I noticed that you didn’t recommend it in your kit design.  With that 10 degree cut, it might be a challenge getting the round-over bit to work properly.

      Thanks,
      -TIM

[Danny Richie]

My recommendation is to mirror image the A/V-1RS layout. Since they are so close together on that rear wall I would be more inclined to mount the tweeters to the outside.

No Rez will be most beneficial on the front wall that faces forward. The rest of the panels are not large enough to have much of a resonance issue if any. Stuff the rest of the box with poly fill or fiberglass insolation.

The round over will have little effect on these speakers. They are already getting surface reflections from the wall and ceiling. Keep in mind though that even though the speaker faces up it really only fires up in the upper ranges. Below 2kHz it is completely omni. So what you hear below that range comes directly from the speaker and did not bounce off the walls or ceiling. Although you will get wall and ceiling reflections along with it just with a slight delay.

Besides a 3/4" round over can only be seen to have an effect above 15kHz.

[tjt123]

AV1-RS speakers have been done for a while and they sound awesome.

Now I’m trying to finish up the OB7s and have a couple of questions with regards to the inductors. 

First, kind of a newbie quesion.  I don’t see an indication on the schematic specifying the orientation of the inductors in the circuit.  On the AV1-RS, the schematic seems to show inner vs. outer lead, and another kit that I built in the past indicated inner vs. outler lead, so does it matter which lead goes to which side of the circuit?

The second question is just about the best way to solder the foil inductors.  When I built the AV1-RS speakers I opened up the foil to expose the inner (cleanest) foil.  I then put the other wires against the copper foil and laid down a blob of solder.  Then wrapped the foil back around the solder point and put some heat shrink tube around the whole thing.  It looked a bit ugly but seems to be a solid connection.  Is that about how you do it, or is there a trick to soldering these things?

   Thanks,
   -TIM

[Danny Richie]

I don’t see an indication on the schematic specifying the orientation of the inductors in the circuit.  On the AV1-RS, the schematic seems to show inner vs. outer lead, and another kit that I built in the past indicated inner vs. outler lead, so does it matter which lead goes to which side of the circuit?

It doesn't make any difference. Just be consistent and do the same on both speakers.

The second question is just about the best way to solder the foil inductors.

Cut the lead down so that it is only about 1/2" long or less. Then press it into a V or U shape. Next put the soldering gun (or iron) on it and heat it up. While heating it up feed solder onto it and make you a little puddle with the solder.

When you solder to it heat up your already tinned wire (wire that has been heated and filled with solder) so that it is melting the solder that coats it. Then lay it to the foil inductor lead and solder the two of them together.

If you like you can squeeze the foil around it while the solder is still hot using some needle noise pliers.

[tjt123]

Wow, thanks for the quick answer.

Just so I'm 100% clear.  Do you generally solder a short pigtail (using the OFC wire included) to the inductor leads using the method you just described and then connect the other end of the pigtail to the other components using the standard twist solder and heatshrink method?

That sure would be a lot easier than attempting to solder the twisted ends of 2-3 capacitors/resistors/wires/etc... directly to the flat ribon of the inductor.  I did that on the AV1-RS and it was a real pain.  Plus there are a lot more connections on the OB7s.

[KS]

Besides a 3/4" round over can only be seen to have an effect above 15kHz.

Does this mean that for those of us who can't hear anything above 10k anyway, tweeter diffraction is a non-issue?

[Danny Richie]

Do you generally solder a short pigtail (using the OFC wire included) to the inductor leads using the method you just described and then connect the other end of the pigtail to the other components using the standard twist solder and heatshrink method?

Shoot me an e-mail to respond to and I will send you pics of the crossover layout. It will answer some questions.

Does this mean that for those of us who can't hear anything above 10k anyway, tweeter diffraction is a non-issue?

Nope, it is still an issue. Diffraction takes place below 10kHz as well.