AudioCircle

Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: mlundy57 on 27 Jun 2015, 01:05 am

Title: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 27 Jun 2015, 01:05 am
The second project I'm working on is a pair of LGK Wedges and bass units. The plan is to use the wedge shaped bass units once Danny get's them up and running and any kinks worked out.

As those of you who have followed the original Wedge thread know, there are no parts to cut for the LGK Wedges. A flat pack is part of the kit.  I won't be cutting any wood until I start on the bass units.

Normally I veneer my cabinets but the person these speakers are being built for wants them painted gloss white. Due to the very high quotes I received for getting all six pieces (2 LGK Wedges, 2 bass units and 2 amp boxes) painted, it was decided I would paint them. So I ordered a Spray Port HVLP spray system and have spent part of the last two days building a spray booth and rotating work station.

Since these speakers are going to be painted, once they were glued up I needed to stabilize the seams so they won't show through the paint. To do this, I cut a groove along each seam then filled this with Bondo glass which is a fiberglass reinforced Bondo.  Due to the shape of the Wedges and already having the front edges rounded over I didn't want to try using a router to cut the grooves. So instead, I used handheld wood carving tools to gouge out the grooves then sanded them with 80 grit paper to feather the edges and rough up a surface for the Bondo to bind to.


(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123528)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123529)


Then I applied the Bondo glass

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123530)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123531)


Once the Bondo glass dried it was sanded down using 80 grit paper. Then glazing putty was applied to fill in the scratches and any pin holes and small voids in the Bondo

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123532)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123533)

After sanding this down I had to apply a second coat of the glazing putty to some of the seams.

More pics to follow

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Outofthewoods on 27 Jun 2015, 01:17 am
Those will look great in gloss white! :thumb:

Pearl white is pretty, too. A little more tricky as it's a tri stage finish, but the results are worth it.

Here's a pearl face-plate I did for one of Gary's customers a few years back.

Best,

Ruben

(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/DODDFaceplate.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/DODDFaceplate.jpg.html)
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 27 Jun 2015, 01:30 am
Ruben,

That's sharp. I think I'll hold off on the pearl for awhile. The plan is Bullseye 1-2-3 primer, General Finishes Snow White milk paint, with General Finishes High Performance Gloss poly topcoat. The High Performance is a water based poly so it won't yellow over time and the white will stay white.

I'll paint up some sample pieces first to make sure the color is what the client wants.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 27 Jun 2015, 02:32 am
Here's after the glazing putty has been sanded off

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123542)


Here's a close-up of the glazing putty filling small voids in the fiberglass filler

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123543)


Here is the rotating painting stand.  It consists of two 2'x2'x3/4" pieces of plywood, two 9"x9"x3/4" pieces of plywood, a 1 1/4" pipe flange, a 1" pipe flange, a 1 1/4" x 3' piece of galvanized pipe, a 1" x 3' piece of galvanized pipe, glue, wood screws and eight 1/4" x 1 1/2" lag bolts.

The small pieces of plywood are centered then glued and screwed to the larger pieces of plywood.

The pipe flanges are attached to the small pieces of plywood with lag bolts.  That completes the assembly.

To use the stand, screw each piece of pipe into it's corresponding flange. Slide the 1" pipe inside the 1 1/4" pipe and the stand is ready to use. The 1" pipe fits snug enough inside the 1 1/4" pipe that there is no slop or side play but loose enough to turn easily.

When you're done, pull the top piece out of the bottom piece, unscrew the pieces of pipe and put it away.

Here it is in pictures


(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123544)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123545)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123546)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123547)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123548)


Broke back down and ready to be put away

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123549)


To change the height of the stand, just get longer or shorter pieces of pipe.  Not enough work surface? Use bigger pieces of plywood. The instructions I found for this stand used 48" round pieces of plywood.

I'll round the edges off later on.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 27 Jun 2015, 05:38 am
Pretty  slick   Mike   :beer:

I think I am gong to try your method of dealing with seams on my next build .
Looking forward to seeing  more pics as usual

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Outofthewoods on 27 Jun 2015, 02:14 pm
Is there a particular reason you prefer not to walk around a stationary piece? Short air hose perhaps?

Edit: I removed a comment as I actually read the entire post this time. :lol:

Best,

Ruben
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 27 Jun 2015, 03:07 pm
Is there a particular reason you prefer not to walk around a stationary piece? Short air hose perhaps?

Edit: I removed a comment as I actually read the entire post this time. :lol:


Best,

Ruben

The air hose is plenty long enough. The physical space I have to work in is not.  My spray booth is like the stand,  set up when you need it, take down and stow away when you don't. It is made up of 4'x6' pieces of cardboard for the front, sides and top with an opening cut in the front for the filter and fan
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 3 Jul 2015, 09:54 pm
I was finally able to get a coat of primer on the Wedges that I liked.  Sanding these things smooth is nothing like sanding a pair of box speakers.


(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123987)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123989)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123990)


I have added some black TransTint to the primer so my second coat will be grey. This will provide contrast between both the first coat of primer and the first coat of color.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Ron on 3 Jul 2015, 10:11 pm
  The Wedge's looking great Mike !  Nice job.  :thumb:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: bdp24 on 4 Jul 2015, 12:29 am
Mike, I have a question for you (and anyone else who wants to comment): How does cutting a groove at the seam and then filling the groove with putty stabilize the seam? Won't the putty-filled groove "telegraph" just as much as a seam, or perhaps even more because of it's larger size? And since a seam IS so much smaller than a groove, isn't it's telegraphing less noticeable? I thought the point of cutting a groove at the location of the seam was to avoid having to use putty, as the groove looks intentional, not like a telegraphing-seam which looks like a crack in painted MDF.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: rajacat on 4 Jul 2015, 02:01 am
I bet penetrating epoxy would work.
 http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/S-1-Sealer-c32.htm?gclid=CjwKEAjw5disBRCA5r7OjsK_-UgSJAC27JPgCWrYEsP0c02bKpx1bexuMrXr8_Ch0MqPTrnEoMl0DxoCr17w_wcB
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Scott Trebble on 4 Jul 2015, 01:43 pm
I was thinking the wedgies should be a mirrored pair.  It looks like yours are 'open' on the same side  :scratch:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: bdp24 on 4 Jul 2015, 02:06 pm
I was thinking the wedgies should be a mirrored pair.  It looks like yours are 'open' on the same side  :scratch:

I had thought one of them is upside down, but the top and bottom are different.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 4 Jul 2015, 03:15 pm
I was thinking the wedgies should be a mirrored pair.  It looks like yours are 'open' on the same side  :scratch:

You're right,

They are supposed to be mirrored pairs. Don't know how I managed that. That's the way the pieces fit together. Looks like I'm going to have to buy another flat pack and start over.

Crap!!!
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 4 Jul 2015, 03:20 pm
That's  no fun Mik  :(

Get Ben to send you  two lefts now(if they are indeed cut differently) or build them both  as lefts if not. Have a spare set ready  for your next customer  !

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 4 Jul 2015, 03:53 pm
That's  no fun Mik  :(

Get Ben to send you  two lefts now(if they are indeed cut differently) or build them both  as lefts if not. Have a spare set ready  for your next customer  !

jay

Working on that

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Tyson on 4 Jul 2015, 06:01 pm
You're right,

They are supposed to be mirrored pairs. Don't know how I managed that. That's the way the pieces fit together. Looks like I'm going to have to buy another flat pack and start over.

Crap!!!
Now you can set them up as rear speakers for full surround sound!  :P
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 4 Jul 2015, 06:33 pm
That's  no fun Mik  :(

Get Ben to send you  two lefts now(if they are indeed cut differently) or build them both  as lefts if not. Have a spare set ready  for your next customer  !

jay

I don't think many of the parts are left and right, you just have to be careful how you glue them up.

 :duh:  :duh:  :duh:

I have added a !!!!WARNING!!!!  note on my Wedgie build instructions to make sure they are glued up in mirrored pairs

Now you can set them up as rear speakers for full surround sound!  :P

Guess I could but Danny went to all the trouble to design the O3's for surround duty for Neo3 based OB main speakers, it would be a shame not to use them in that role.  :thumb:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 4 Jul 2015, 11:23 pm
Disaster averted  :hyper:

Ben was able to make up a complete flatpack. Since I currently have two Right speakers, when I get it I will build two Left speakers. That way I will have two complete pairs of Wedgie cabinets.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 5 Jul 2015, 05:38 am
Cool he was able to help you out  Mike  :thumb:

I kind of  always figured the parts were the same but then when  you  mentined  that  they seemed to  fit together that way, it made me wonder if they were in fact different. 
No matter,  at least you have a solution

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 9 Jul 2015, 05:39 am
The new cabinet parts arrived today and I have started gluing up a left hand cabinet to match the right. I actually ended up with enough parts to build two complete pairs of the Wedgies plus three more pairs if I do some table saw work.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 20 Jul 2015, 02:06 am
Got the new cabinet glued up, mirror image this time, applied the first coat of primer (white) to get it even with the other one then shot a second coat of primer, grey this time so there would be some contrast with the white color coats.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124972)

Then started applying the color coats. Got the first coat shot (except on the bottoms which the cabinets were standing on) and sanded down smooth.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124973)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124974)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124975)


I will continue shooting white color coats and sanding with finer grit paper/Scotchbright type pads until I have both a smooth surface and complete coverage of the color coat.  Then it will be time to start shooting the poly topcoat.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 31 Jul 2015, 02:05 am
I've started building the bass units.  I have the sides laminated up to 1 1/2" and cut to size.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125506)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125507)

When I routed the driver holes I cut a recess to flush mount the drivers and put a 1/2" roundover on the back sides

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125508)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125509)

The above panel is not crooked, my camera was

Then I started gluing the sides up. My first attempt didn't work out so well. When I applied clamping pressure the side slid up on the front piece.  I took the pieces apart, wiped as much glue as I could off, waited for the glue to dry, sanded it back down smooth, then glued the side panel back on again. This time I clamped a stop block to the front piece to keep the side in place.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125510)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125511)


Mike

Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 31 Jul 2015, 11:25 pm
I can tell I'm not used to making taper cuts. I took me a whole day to figure out how and get the 4 braces cut. I still have to cut the holes and round them over. 

I think I will get a 4 1/2" hole saw and use the drill press to cut the holes rather than try and cut them with a router.

I'll try and get some more pics up later this weekend.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 1 Aug 2015, 12:36 am
I can see those being tough.....How did you end up doing it Mike ?
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 1 Aug 2015, 04:16 am
I can see those being tough.....How did you end up doing it Mike ?

Jay,

First, unlike most of the plans for Danny's kits, these bass cabinets need some explanations to go with the measurements.

First, you need to glue both sides to the front at the same time and the 7" spacer(s) to the rear need to be clamped into place for the glue up. 

When you glue the sides to the front you need to be sure neither the sides nor the rear spacer can slide up. Clamping the rear spacer down would help with this as well as using stop blocks that have been coated with wax or packing tape (to keep glue from sticking) on the inside of the front.

I wasn't able to use a lot of clamp pressure or the parts started moving, even with a stop block so I resorted to using my 2" brad nailer to keep the pieces from shifting.

The other thing clamping the rear spacer into place during glueup would do is keep the inside angles even and at the 10 degrees noted in the plans.

Here is another point for clarification, the 10 degree cuts indicated for the braces are not the same type of 10 degree cuts indicated for the sides.  With the sides, it is a 10 degree bevel cut (the angle of the saw blade is changed from 0 degrees to 10 degrees on the saw's bevel scale (90 degrees to 80 degrees if using a digital protractor to set the blade angle) and the pieces are fed straight through the blade using the rip fence as the guide.

With the braces, the 10 degrees refers to a miter cut, not a bevel cut, so the saw blade is set back to 0 (straight up and down) and the rip fence is removed.  The miter gauge is then set to 10 degrees and a long and tall sacrificial fence is added to the miter gauge (if you have a cutoff sled use that).

You may have already guessed that the first brace I cut, I put bevel cuts on the edges so that one was wasted. Since I thought the rear spacers were for use when adding the top and bottom, I didn't have them in when gluing up the sides so my angles were slightly off. Ten degrees was no longer accurate so it became a game of trial and error to get the angled sides of the braces to match up with the side panels. I ended up cutting eight braces to get four that fit properly, but I finally managed.

As I write this I realize the table saw was not the tool to use for this job. I should have set up my 12" sliding compound miter saw. These braces are exactly what that saw is made for and with it's cut indicator, I could have lined the cuts up accurately the first time rather than make multiple cuts creeping up on the dimension I actually needed  :duh:  :duh:

The table saw is the proper tool for the sides and fronts since the miter saw doesn't have enough travel for the 26" length but the miter saw is the proper tool for the braces.

So lessons learned:

1) use the rear spacers between the sides during glue up and stop blocks on the front to keep the sides lined up and the angles accurate.

2) the 10 degrees refers to a bevel cut on the edges of the sides and a miter cut on the braces 

3) use the table saw on the fronts and sides but use the sliding compound miter saw on the braces.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 1 Aug 2015, 04:47 am

Here is another point for clarification, the 10 degree cuts indicated for the braces are not the same type of 10 degree cuts indicated for the sides.  With the sides, it is a 10 degree bevel cut (the angle of the saw blade is changed from 0 degrees to 10 degrees on the saw's bevel scale (90 degrees to 80 degrees if using a digital protractor to set the blade angle) and the pieces are fed straight through the blade using the rip fence as the guide.

With the braces, the 10 degrees refers to a miter cut, not a bevel cut, so the saw blade is set back to 0 (straight up and down) and the rip fence is removed.  The miter gauge is then set to 10 degrees and a long and tall sacrificial fence is added to the miter gauge (if you have a cutoff sled use that).

As I write this I realize the table saw was not the tool to use for this job. I should have set up my 12" sliding compound miter saw. These braces are exactly what that saw is made for and with it's cut indicator, I could have lined the cuts up accurately the first time rather than make multiple cuts creeping up on the dimension I actually needed  :duh:  :duh:


Thanks Mike, appreciate  the  explantions
yeah, I understood the difference between the cuts on the baffle  , ends of sides panles and the actual braces needing to be  cut  wedge pie shapped with a blunt front to butt up against the baffle and a blunt  rear to be flush across the backside., it was how you went about cutting those braces on those angles that  I was wonering about. The sliding mitre saw as you mentioned, makes a lot of sense so long as it will cut the distance.

One thing I was wondering...  if you made up all  4 braces  first, would it not be easier to glue them into position on one side panel and after curing, glue the 2nd  side panle into place. I'd think it would make gluing the front baffle on much simpler,  wouldn't require spacers for glue up (gues you could use a couple to go betwen the braces for proper  distance).  As long as the  shorter side (inside ) of the baffle  was equal to the  width of the  front end of the braces, I'd think it should work out quite well doing it that way.  gluing the baffle on would  be much easier as you'd actuallhave something  to pull on with the clamps without the fear of anything slipping, the baffle could only pull tighter into  position.

Just a thught

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 1 Aug 2015, 05:37 am
Jay,

That might work. It's the way I built the N3TL's. It works fine when the braces are squared up and opposite sides parallel but I wasn't too sure how it would work when the sides are not parallel.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 1 Aug 2015, 05:55 am
Good point,  when clamping that 2nd side on it  would probably want to slip... even  gluing  the  braces onto the first side might be trying,   not sure.
The angles definately make it tricky

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Keithh on 1 Aug 2015, 03:14 pm
A dado blade, Kreg jig and band clamps make any angle job a breeze. A dado lines all the pieces up perfectly
and makes assembly easy.

It would be far easier to assemble the braces to the sides first. My first choice would be a dado with a band clamp, but you
could also use a Kreg jig on the braces if you don't want to use a dado. Or just screws from the outside if you are veneering.
The front should be glued on last in case you need to trim the sides  for a perfect fit. You are working with angles so you
can't just use a flush trim bit to clean everything up.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: sanders on 4 Aug 2015, 08:44 pm
Hi Mr Lundy,
I spoke to Danny Richie today about locating a pair of neo3 pdr speakers and he recommended I contact you. I currently have a pair in my speakers, by they blew two months ago and I have been trying to replace them ever since. If you happen to have a pair that you would sell or can give me any leads I would greatly appreciate it. (my email address is sanders979@gmail.com)

Sincerely,
 Sander Schiller
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 5 Aug 2015, 02:52 am
Picture time.  Here are some pics of the bass Wedges going together

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125854)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125855)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125856)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125857)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125858)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125859)

Braces going in

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125860)

Tops and bottoms going on

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125861)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125862)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125863)

Building a jig to flush trim the back

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125864)

Installing the jig

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125865)

Flush trimming. This would be no big deal if you surface mount the drivers. There will be plenty of room for the bearings on the flush trim bit to ride. However, if you flush mount the drivers like I am doing, the recess removes almost all of the room for the bearing to ride. You only have about 1/8" to work with so bit depth is critical.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125866)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125867)


Once all the flush trimming was done it was time to stabilize the seams to prevent them from showing through the paint. Like the Wedgies, I gouged the seams out using wood carving tools and am using Bondo glass to fill the seams. This stuff is fairly easy to sand off provided you can get a sander on it. You do not want to have to sand it out of hard to reach areas. It's best to not get any of the Bondo where you don't want it. That means masking off anywhere you don't want to have to clean up, especially in the driver recesses.


(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125868)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125869)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125870)

Next it was time to start Bondoing


(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=125871)


Tomorrow I should finish the Bondo application and get the profiles routed and/or sanded

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: ebag4 on 5 Aug 2015, 03:06 am
Looking good Mike, thanks for taking us along for the ride.  I am very anxious to read your thoughts on these as compared to the H frames.

Best,
Ed
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 10 Aug 2015, 12:26 am
Got some more done. Here are the pics.

Rather than gluing the feet on, I installed threaded inserts so they can be removed for shipping and/or replaced with a different plinth if desired.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126065)

The small square in the corner is for the Neutrik Speakon connector

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126066)

Here are a few more pics showing different views and the edge profiles

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126067)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126068)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126069)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126070)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126071)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126072)


Here they are in the paint booth waiting for the first coat of primer

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126073)


First coat of primer applied

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126074)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126075)


Here's the feet with the first coat of black

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126076)


That's all for now

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 11 Aug 2015, 04:12 am
They are looking great Mike, nicely done  :thumb:

Having built a couple pairs of H-frames using dados, i'd  agree with Keithh,  I think using the  dados and a band clamp would make the basic assembly much easier, might be worth giving it a shot if yo u build another pair  down the road

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 11 Aug 2015, 04:42 am
They are looking great Mike, nicely done  :thumb:

Having built a couple pairs of H-frames using dados, i'd  agree with Keithh,  I think using the  dados and a band clamp would make the basic assembly much easier, might be worth giving it a shot if yo u build another pair  down the road

jay

Might be but considering I'm a dado virgin (and do not own a dado stack) I'm a little shy about trying it.

Now for a couple nights of quality time with sandpaper to smooth out the first coat of primer

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 11 Aug 2015, 06:25 am
Might be but considering I'm a dado virgin (and do not own a dado stack) I'm a little shy about trying it.

Now for a couple nights of quality time with sandpaper to smooth out the first coat of primer

Mike

Mike,
I don't  actually own a dado stack myself  (yet)  But,  i do have a buddy  who has a local cabinet shop  so what I did was take the cut and sized panels as well as  a brace down to his shop  to have him  cut the dados for me. Just brought the one brace for sizing purposes.  I cut the baffles and all the braces 1" wider  than normal  and then  we cut the dados 1/2" deep.  One you've got the  stack setup to provide the clearance you want, it goes pretty quick.  I'm assumning the braces  in the cabinets you are building   right now are located the same distance from the top as the bottom.... one dado stack setting and one  fence setting would cut   all 8  dados and make alignment much easier when assmebling the cabinets.

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Folsom on 11 Aug 2015, 06:44 am
How many rolls of blue tape did you use?  :lol:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 11 Aug 2015, 02:51 pm
Mike,
I don't  actually own a dado stack myself  (yet)  But,  i do have a buddy  who has a local cabinet shop  so what I did was take the cut and sized panels as well as  a brace down to his shop  to have him  cut the dados for me. Just brought the one brace for sizing purposes.  I cut the baffles and all the braces 1" wider  than normal  and then  we cut the dados 1/2" deep.  One you've got the  stack setup to provide the clearance you want, it goes pretty quick.  I'm assumning the braces  in the cabinets you are building   right now are located the same distance from the top as the bottom.... one dado stack setting and one  fence setting would cut   all 8  dados and make alignment much easier when assmebling the cabinets.

jay

Jay,

The brace positioning is close to the same top and bottom but not exactly. I put a 1/2" roundover on the backside of the driver openings instead of 3/8" since the walls were double thickness. This would have posed a problem for dados since the dado would have cut through the roundover. As it is, I positioned the braces to have an equal amount of edge showing through the cutout then filled the gaps with wood putty and sanded everything smooth, rounded and feathered into the cutouts and braces to make sure there were no flat edges to reflect sound waves.

Not sure why the back side of the driver cutouts needed to be rounded over with this cabinet but not with the H-Frames unless it has to do with the semi enclosed nature of this design. For whatever reason, it made placing the braces trickeier than with the H-Frames. It probably would have been easier with a 3/8" roundover.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 11 Aug 2015, 02:51 pm
How many rolls of blue tape did you use?  :lol:

1 1/2 rolls of the wide tape  :green:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 22 Aug 2015, 12:52 am
That first coat of primer wasn't anywhere near enough to keep the seams from showing through the white color coat. In the end it took 5 coats of primer to keep the seams from showing. Here are some pics of the Wedge bases after the five coats of primer and one coat of color. The color coat is called snow white.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126571)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126572)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126573)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126574)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126575)


A couple more coats of the snow white and they will be ready for the poly topcoat

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Ron on 22 Aug 2015, 12:51 pm
  They are looking great Mike !  :thumb:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 9 Sep 2015, 09:53 pm
Everything is done except for the amp boxes.  I used the amps, a DAC and the computer music server from my system upstairs to set the new Wedgies and 3x8 Wedge basses up in the living room and check them out.  Here are some pics (no they aren't drunk or tilting sideways, that's my camera work):

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127748)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127749)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127750)


Ron built the crossovers

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127751)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127752)

Here's a system setup shot

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127753)


Now to let them burn in some then I will discuss my observations, especially of the 3x8 Wedge design vs a 3x8 H-frame

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: jeffh on 9 Sep 2015, 10:16 pm
Very nice build. Can't wait to hear your thoughts on how everything sounds.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: nickd on 9 Sep 2015, 10:20 pm
I'm Interested too. :thumb:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: ebag4 on 9 Sep 2015, 10:49 pm
Looking great Mike, nice job!  I too am anxious to read your thoughts, specifically on the bass units.

Best,
Ed
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: prokennex on 10 Sep 2015, 12:01 am
Really nice work; also look forward to your impressions on the wedges with the base units.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 10 Sep 2015, 01:38 am
(no they aren't drunk or tilting sideways, that's my camera work)

Mike

How bout' the operator ?   :lol:
Just  rassing you man,   all my photos  turn out the same  way

They  look great , I'm sure your client is going to be thrilled   :thumb:

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 10 Sep 2015, 02:03 am
How bout' the operator ?   :lol:
Just  rassing you man,   all my photos  turn out the same  way

They  look great , I'm sure your client is going to be thrilled   :thumb:

jay

 :wine:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Ron on 10 Sep 2015, 02:35 pm
    Good job Mike. They look great !  :thumb:  Anxious to read your review on how they sound.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 10 Sep 2015, 04:15 pm
Good looking speakers.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Hank on 10 Sep 2015, 04:43 pm
Quote
Good looking speakers.
+1
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: nrenter on 10 Sep 2015, 06:04 pm
This form factor really speaks to me. I'm not a big fan of the "penguin feet" but that's just personal preference. I'd prefer a base that replicated the shape of the bass module (just a bit larger) and visually mimicked the gap between the bass and mid/tweeter module. An automotive metallic deep red would be hot, too.  :wink:

How would the performance of the bass module change if it increased in height just enough to house the plate amp in the back of the middle section (or even bottom section)?
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 10 Sep 2015, 06:55 pm
This form factor really speaks to me. I'm not a big fan of the "penguin feet" but that's just personal preference. I'd prefer a base that replicated the shape of the bass module (just a bit larger) and visually mimicked the gap between the bass and mid/tweeter module. An automotive metallic deep red would be hot, too.  :wink:

How would the performance of the bass module change if it increased in height just enough to house the plate amp in the back of the middle section (or even bottom section)?

A wide base is really necessary to stabilize it. Mine has floor spikes as well.

The tweeter level is already a little bit to the high side. I'd opt to not make it any taller if at all possible. And the plate amp can't really be placed in the back side of the V. It needs to be kept as open as possible.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: persisting1 on 10 Sep 2015, 07:32 pm
The base really ties into the Wedgies well. I'm really liking this speaker  :thumb:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 10 Sep 2015, 07:54 pm
What is the tweeter heigh now with the  wedgie sitting on the new bass design ?

-jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: ebag4 on 10 Sep 2015, 08:11 pm
Mike, what are you using between the Wedgie and the base?

Thanks,
Ed
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: brother love on 10 Sep 2015, 10:29 pm
I must confess that I was skeptical at first, but the snow white cabinets contrast very nicely with the black speakers. The black flared feet add a nice touch as well.  I dig it!   :thumb:
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Folsom on 11 Sep 2015, 12:35 am
Would it really cause any problems to move the single sub foward/back and the other vice/versa, lengthening the cabinet a little bit and then moving the subs closer together? It seems like you could lower two inches really easily, maybe 3.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 11 Sep 2015, 12:50 am
Would it really cause any problems to move the single sub foward/back and the other vice/versa, lengthening the cabinet a little bit and then moving the subs closer together? It seems like you could lower two inches really easily, maybe 3.

The woofer frames actually overlap one another already. And the braces are right behind the frames above and below.

(http://gr-research.com/pics/wedgebase4.jpg)
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Folsom on 11 Sep 2015, 01:05 am
Well, I did go to a guys house that had silver stands running in the air to his tweeters on top of the speakers, and his chair was up on something like a throne. Options... WAF loved, oh wait I think he lived alone.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 11 Sep 2015, 01:28 am
Thanks everyone. I'm going to answer some questions first then I will get to my impressions.

This form factor really speaks to me. I'm not a big fan of the "penguin feet" but that's just personal preference. I'd prefer a base that replicated the shape of the bass module (just a bit larger) and visually mimicked the gap between the bass and mid/tweeter module. An automotive metallic deep red would be hot, too.  :wink:

How would the performance of the bass module change if it increased in height just enough to house the plate amp in the back of the middle section (or even bottom section)?

nrenter,

The paint I used was a water based acrylic for wood with a water based polyurethane topcoat, both made by General Finishes. Automotive paints and topcoats will increase the options but be prepared for the sticker shock. When I had the paint job quoted at a local auto body shop the price was $1,000 - $1,200 plus more for a pearl.

What is the tweeter heigh now with the  wedgie sitting on the new bass design ?

-jay


Jay,

As these stand, without floor spikes, the center of the tweeter is at 39 1/2". Floor spikes will add an additional 1 1/2" bringing the tweeter center to 41".  My ear height, kicked back in my recliner, is at 39" so for me the current height is about perfect.


Mike, what are you using between the Wedgie and the base?

Thanks,
Ed

Ed,

I am using Herbie's fat dots, specifically the Vonschweikert special (4 round and 1 square under each speaker). http://herbiesaudiolab.net/spkrfeet.htm

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127820)

Would it really cause any problems to move the single sub foward/back and the other vice/versa, lengthening the cabinet a little bit and then moving the subs closer together? It seems like you could lower two inches really easily, maybe 3.

Folsom,

This cabinet is really tight. The braces between drivers butt up against the openings for both the driver above and the one below. So there is no way to move them any closer together. Also, if you look at the side with the two drivers, what looks like space above the top driver and below the bottom driver is actually the thickness of the top and bottom plates.  There is actually only about 1/8" clearance between the outer edge of the two drivers and the top and bottom of the side walls. Horizontally there is only about 1 1/2" clearance both front and rear. (Danny already beat me to this, sorry for the dual post)

Now for my impressions:

When I initially finished the bass units I set them up in the small room. I moved the H-frames out of the way and put the Wedge basses in their place with my Wedgies on top.  In this room the Wedge designed played deeper and with more authority than the H-frames but they also loaded the room a little more than the H-frames.

The H-frames started rolling off noticeably below 40Hz. They were audible at 30Hz but there was nothing at 20Hz.  If I stuck my ear inside the H-frame I could hear a 20Hz tone but outside the enclosure, nothing. The Wedge was solid at 30Hz and still audible in room at 20Hz, though significantly diminished.

On the other hand, the H-frames were more open sounding with no room loading where the Wedges did load the room a little. There was a little of that subwoofer chest thump with the Wedge basses. Not like a sealed or ported sub but enough to easily notice.

After I finished the new Wedgies, I set the whole system up in the larger living room (my wife is out of town until tomorrow night). I pulled them out until the center of the bass woofers was 3ft from the wall (back of cabinet 32” from the wall).

When I started playing the Wedges in this position I heard the same things I did upstairs. Also, the sound stage was much wider but more unfocused, almost like an echo but not quite and the chest thump from the bass was more pronounced.

If you look at the picture of the system setup you might see what was happening.


(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127821)

I thought all those doors behind the speakers provided a highly reflective surface which was causing the ehco/smearing I was hearing. Unfortunately, I do not have any sound absorption panels but I do have some moving blankets. I took four of the large blankets, folded each one in half to provide a double layer of heavy material and hung them up behind the speakers.

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=127822)


That did the trick. The sound stage cleaned up, focused and the echo/smearing went away. So did the chest thump from the bass units. Now they played deep, clean and open. The bass is still authoritative but it no longer loads the room. To me it seems like the best of both worlds, clean open baffle bass with just the tiniest hint of subwoofer thump and then only on extremely bass heavy tracks that were intended to have the thump such as the Telarc recording of the 1812 Overture when the cannons fire.  Deep musical bass is just that, deep and musical yet open and spacious.

Visually these units go together seamlessly. The foot print is small and compact but the sound is HUGE!!!  Danny’s description of this combination’s performance is right on the money.  In the H-frames the 8” drivers are a little disappointing but not in these cabinets. I’m going to hate to see them go. However, the first chance I get to build something for myself, it’s going to be a pair of these Wedge cabinets. 

Mike



 
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 11 Sep 2015, 02:20 am
Interesting  Mike, I didn't realize there was some disappointment with the triple 8's in an H-frame.  Glad to hear  that the new  U/Wedge frame  seems to have  taken care of it
I quite often hang a doubled up, thick quit over my TV  which seems to help.

That tweeter height  shuld be fine for pretty much anyone, the Neo 3 has very good off axis performance.  The OB7's  are 40" before  bases and spikes.

What effect does the wave guide have on off axis performance ?

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Folsom on 11 Sep 2015, 02:39 am
You don't get to keep them?

The things audiophile do when the wife isn't there...

Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 11 Sep 2015, 03:04 am
Interesting  Mike, I didn't realize there was some disappointment with the triple 8's in an H-frame.  Glad to hear  that the new  U/Wedge frame  seems to have  taken care of it
I quite often hang a doubled up, thick quit over my TV  which seems to help.

That tweeter height  shuld be fine for pretty much anyone, the Neo 3 has very good off axis performance.  The OB7's  are 40" before  bases and spikes.

What effect does the wave guide have on off axis performance ?

jay

Jay,

Yes, in the H-frames the triple 8's are disappointing. Not from quality of sound but from lack of deep bass extension.  I doesn't matter which room they are in or how far I pull them from the wall (I have had them 5ft. out in the living room) they started rolling off sharply below 40Hz, about half volume at 30Hz and nothing at 20Hz. For over $1,400 in drivers and amps I was expecting audible bass down to 20Hz but didn't get it.  I was beginning to feel I had wasted my money on the 8's and should have gone with the 12's even though the H-frame would have been wider than I really wanted. But the Wedge design has the 8's performing as I hoped they would.

The off axis response is phenomenal. Imagine this setup: a large three seat sofa with the center being the "sweet spot". Now place two large arm chairs to each side of the sofa. Go sit in either of the two outside arm chairs. They still sound great.  How's that for off axis response?

Mike

You don't get to keep them?

The things audiophile do when the wife isn't there...


Nope. I built them for another AC member.

Yep, when the cat's away ....

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 11 Sep 2015, 03:13 am
Jay,

Yes, in the H-frames the triple 8's are disappointing. Not from quality of sound but from lack of deep bass extension.  I doesn't matter which room they are in or how far I pull them from the wall (I have had them 5ft. out in the living room) they started rolling off sharply below 40Hz, about half volume at 30Hz and nothing at 20Hz. For over $1,400 in drivers and amps I was expecting audible bass down to 20Hz but didn't get it.  I was beginning to feel I had wasted my money on the 8's and should have gone with the 12's even though the H-frame would have been wider than I really wanted. But the Wedge design has the 8's performing as I hoped they would.

The off axis response is phenomenal. Imagine this setup: a large three seat sofa with the center being the "sweet spot". Now place two large arm chairs to each side of the sofa. Go sit in either of the two outside arm chairs. They still sound great.  How's that for off axis response?

Mike

Nope. I built them for another AC member.

Yep, when the cat's away ....

Mike

Are you using the same amps with both setups?

The reason I ask is that the H frames will play to a -3db of 20Hz on the lowest setting. If yours is not then they might not have gotten the shelving circuit on your amps.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 11 Sep 2015, 03:37 am
Danny,

Yes I am using the same amps. The amps for these new speakers were sent to the person I'm building them for instead of to me so I am using my amps to drive the wedges.

But even in the wedge cabinets they are not playing -3dB at 20Hz on low damping, more like -12dB. How can I tell if the shelving circuit was installed? 
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 11 Sep 2015, 04:50 am
Danny,

Yes I am using the same amps. The amps for these new speakers were sent to the person I'm building them for instead of to me so I am using my amps to drive the wedges.

But even in the wedge cabinets they are not playing -3dB at 20Hz on low damping, more like -12dB. How can I tell if the shelving circuit was installed?

The servo amp will add gain as needed to maintain a linear response down to whatever the extension filter setting is. The difference you are hearing then is in how they load the room, and with room gain. If you measure both with a near field driver measurement then they will measure the same.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 12 Sep 2015, 01:22 am
I need to retract my criticism of the H-frame.

When I initially set them up, I set the damping to Low Music and that is where I thought it stayed. However, apparently at some point when turning the amps on and off I flipped the wrong switch. It turns out both amps have been playing on High damping for who knows how long. It's no wonder I didn't have the extreme low end.

After switching the damping back to Low Music, I got audible output at 20Hz from both the Wedge and the H-frame. To my ears the Wedge still outperforms the H-frame but not nearly as much. So from my perspective, the main advantages of the Wedge design are: (1) a little performance advantage in the 20-30Hz range (2) they look better paired with the Wedgies and (3) they weigh a lot less. The H-frames are about 100 pounds each while the Wedges are around 50-60 pounds. I haven't weighed the Wedges but I can pick one up and carry it up the stairs by myself so it can't weigh more 50 or 60 pounds.

Even if both performed identically, the Wedges would win out purely on looks and when it comes to WAF, looks will trump performance almost every time. Fortunately, with the Wedges you can have both at the same time.

My wife is home and watching TV so she is listening to the new speakers. What she doesn't know is I have turned the center channel speaker off. First, there is no way a $500 Klipsch center channel (I haven't had a chance to build an N3S yet) is a sonic match for the Wedges and second, the Wedges image so well and are so clean and clear a center channel is not needed to understand the dialog.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 12 Sep 2015, 03:00 am
I was looking at those "compact amps" last night on the Rythmik site... do they have both  a damping setting as well as an extension setting  ?   I saw the  extension  switch (low/high) but did not see a damping setting ,I could easily be missing it.  With the A370 PEQ there  are both , extension   28/20/14  and damping high/med/low.   The damping  setting  can have quite an effect on low level output as well as the extension.

Do the wedges distrubute the bass  evenly  around the room  in a similar manner to the H-frames ? the room gain or loading makes me wonder   a bit

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 12 Sep 2015, 03:47 am
Jay,

With the HX300's the extension and damping functions are combined into a single switch. With the A370's you choose a low end extension of 14/20/28Hz on one toggle switch and either low, medium, or high damping on another plus there is a separate rumble filter that can be turned on or off.

With the HX300 there is only one switch that combines these three functions. The three settings are low music, low-HT and high. Here is how Rythmik explains it on their website:

"Bass extension control

To simplify bass extension control, we have incorporated bass extension and rumble filter in one signle toggle switch. Low music setting is the most gradual roll-off (or low Q) we recommend to customers. For HT application or vinyl playback, we recommend to use LOW-HT setting which incorporates a 3rd order rumble filter. The high setting is recommended for application where highest SPL or prolonged playback time is needed. "

The Wedges do distribute the bass around the room and have the open baffle sound like the H-frames. They do not load the room like a boxed sub does. A fact I am being reminded of tonight.  Since I am having to use my HX300 amps to power the Wedge basses in the living room (my wife is back and is watching her shows in the living room) the H-frames in my system upstairs currently do not have any power. I have had to hook up a sealed subwoofer if I want any bass and I can really tell the difference.

My wife's opinion is that the music in her TV shows (streamed over Netfilx) is the best she has heard of any of the speakers I've had in her systems (she has N1X's in her out of town apartment and normally has N3TL's in this living room system). She says she doesn't think the dialog is any better but then she usually listens to center channel speakers for dialog.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 25 Sep 2015, 01:28 am
Finally, they're done. I finished the amp boxes earlier this week. Here are some final pics. First the amp boxes:

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128575)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128576)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128577)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128578)


Next some of the Wedgies:

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128579)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128580)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128581)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128582)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128583)


Here's some of the Wedge Bass units:

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128586)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128587)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128588)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128589)


And here they are all together:

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128590)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128591)

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128592)


It has taken 3 months but tomorrow I'll be delivering them to their new home in Fayetteville, AR

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: DeeJayBump on 25 Sep 2015, 01:54 am
Those look awesome, congrats on the beautiful work.

New owner should be very pleased with not only the sound but also the finished product.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 25 Sep 2015, 02:02 am
Nice job Mike,  they look great  :thumb:
I bet the new owner can hardly wait ....   :xmas:

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: aldcoll on 25 Sep 2015, 02:11 am
I have enjoyed this build thread immensely :thumb: :thumb:

I am trying to conceive a woofer stand for my Daedalus Pans.   My desired height would be about 20 inches and more of a square.  Any way some body in Arkansas will be a proud owner.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: ebag4 on 25 Sep 2015, 02:22 am
Beautiful job Mike.  The new owners are going to very happy!

Best,
Ed
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 25 Sep 2015, 02:41 am
Great work Mike.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 25 Sep 2015, 03:48 am
Thanks everybody. I hope he likes them as well.

Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Keithh on 26 Sep 2015, 05:31 am
Mike,
Does the No Rez make a difference? Just starting my Wedge Base build but didn't get any.
Have not read anybody saying if it is needed in the Wedge yet.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 26 Sep 2015, 09:00 pm
Mike,
Does the No Rez make a difference? Just starting my Wedge Base build but didn't get any.
Have not read anybody saying if it is needed in the Wedge yet.

Keithh,

Not really sure. I have not listened to them without the NoRez. Danny said it wouldn't hurt so the decision was made to go ahead and put it in since it would be a lot easier to do while the speakers were here.

It took 1 sheet to put a piece behind each driver.

If you are building yours for yourself you can always add it later if you think it might help.

Mike
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 26 Sep 2015, 10:07 pm
If you are going to the effort to build a pair,  for the price of a couple sheets of no rez, I'd personally  just do  it.
I don't see the point of "penny pinching" at  this level

I know these aren't the same  as the  H-frames with  the 12" drives, but the principal is.  I believe it was Tyson who  started off sans no rez  with his  Super  7's and said  he was shocked at the difference it made after adding it.

jay
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Tyson on 26 Sep 2015, 10:47 pm
Haha, did I hear my name?  Yes, Norez made a big difference on my Super 7's. 
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: bdp24 on 26 Sep 2015, 11:05 pm
Haha, did I hear my name?  Yes, Norez made a big difference on my Super 7's.

Tyson, did you put the No Rez on the Super 7 upper-frequency driver baffles? I'm thinking about putting it on the 1' X 4' MDF baffles of my panel speakers (180Hz up). It hadn't occurred to me until a couple of days ago, for some reason.
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: Tyson on 27 Sep 2015, 02:39 am
No, just the bass section. 
Title: Re: LGK Wedge and Bass Unit Build
Post by: SteveKi on 12 Nov 2015, 04:17 pm
Since these speakers are going to be painted, once they were glued up I needed to stabilize the seams so they won't show through the paint. To do this, I cut a groove along each seam then filled this with Bondo glass which is a fiberglass reinforced Bondo.  Due to the shape of the Wedges and already having the front edges rounded over I didn't want to try using a router to cut the grooves. So instead, I used handheld wood carving tools to gouge out the grooves then sanded them with 80 grit paper to feather the edges and rough up a surface for the Bondo to bind to.


Then I applied the Bondo glass

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123531)

Mike

Mike,
I discovered that Bondo makes a 'Wood Filler' version. Have you ever used it?


(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=131667)

Steve