[russellberg]

Well, I finally got the shipping notice for my parts   I have done crossovers for my XLS Encores but I am still pretty new at this and I don't really understand electrical diagrams.  Is anyone aware of a thread that illustrates this process clearly, I've looked but I can't find one.  I got the full upgrade setup for my crossovers, so I will be using Sonicaps, Foil Inductors, and Copper Bypass Caps.  Does this make a difference in how the crossover is wired?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

The best thing will be to follow Danny's assembly video for the Encorse. The parts and layout will be different, but the overall assembly process will be identical.
https://youtu.be/rIxig_9i-Iw

Danny also put out a video with how to read the symbols
on the schematic.
https://youtu.be/XxAqa-8T5oY

Plus if you have any questions you're also free to shoot us an email if you get stuck or want us to confirm that the layout is correct.

[russellberg]

Thank you so much!

[russellberg]

Am I close here?  Everything is put together very rough and I know that I need to sand the foil ends and wrap stuff much tighter but does this look right?  I very new to this.

[mkane]

 I would clip those long inductor leads

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I would lay the big foil one down, along with the small one on the right, then stand the middle one up so that it's outer face is pointing towards the center of the large inductor.

The two red ones are okay.

Something like this:

[russellberg]

Thank you so much!  Are the components of the cross over connecting to each other correctly?

[E-Zee]

 
If you search for other build threads on your same speakers you will see plenty of photos and suggestions. This layout is tricky, mostly because of the number of inductors involved.  As stated already, I would certainly separate those inductors a little more and have more of them laying down then standing.

Elon

Elon@ezeescrossovers.com

[Badd99]

As others said, move your coils around like mine and the last pic. I think the one inductor should be stood up tho compared to the most recent picture.

I went 🍌 on my crossover so parts will look different. If your going thru all this work too I would do a few mods to your parts. Do it big now because down the road your gonna have the o
Itch and it's easier to upgrade now. Add a 0.1 vcap odam and 0.01 duelund pure silver bypass to your tweeter cap. Better yet is replace that sonic cap with a combo vcap odam and use just the silver bypass on it.

Add a 0.1 vcap odam to your mid cap bundle and 0.01 pure silver duelund bypass cap. Well worth the money. Crazy improvement... This combo sounds far better than the miflex imo. I only used miflex to bypass all the shunting or parallel to main signal.

Also upgrading to path audio resistors is WAY worth it.

[russellberg]

Wow Badd99, that is incredible work!

[russellberg]

I got them up and on their feet, and man do they sound good!  Thank you all for your help.  Here's how it ended up.

I know its not as pretty as some crossovers but they sound incredible.  If you have suggestions for things you think I should change fire away.
Looking at my picture just now I realize I didn't shrink the one piece of shrink wrap

[Edward4]

I have a question about speaker driver polarity... On my NX-Otica wiring diagram I received, there are three circuits, for tweeter, midrange and lower range. Right? If I'm reading this diagram correctly, it says to reverse the polarity of the midrange drivers, compared to the upper & lower drivers. But if there's a slight overlap in frequency response, won't this cause a cancellation at those specific frequencies that overlap? Or is this just a typo? Or (most likely) am I missing something here?

I'm probably misunderstanding something, since I'm intimidated by circuit diagrams and I don't really know what I'm doing.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Correct, the tweeter and lower woofers are wired out of phase to the mids. It is NOT a typo, they are wired electrically out-of-phase in order to keep the drivers acoustically in-phase.
if you wire all of the drivers electrically in phase, you will have massive cancellation at both crossover points.


For the crossover assembly portion, wire the crossovers as though there is no polarity flip.
Then when you go to solder the wires directly to the drivers, then you slip the polarity.

[Edward4]

Thank you. I don't always understand this stuff, but I believe you when you say this is the right way to wire the drivers!