Otica h-frame MTM questions for Danny and Ebag4 plus other stuff

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flavo

At least that one's not hot glued down! Haha. I don't think I'll be able to get it to fit in the cabinet that way. But I could center it better away from the others.

Tyson

I think someone who knows what they're talking about  :lol: would say to take the center coil and turn it up on it's side. Then face it so it looks like it could roll back and forth between the other two.

They may be far enough away from each other not to matter though :dunno:.

Yes, I'd orient that middle coil vertically so the electric fields are adjacent to each other.

gab

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Yes, I'd orient that middle coil vertically so the electric fields are adjacent to each other.

From Loudspeaker Design Cookbook: "In making physical placement decisions about inductors on a crossover board, place them as far apart as possible and mount them at 90 degree angles to each other. If you maintain at least 3" of separation and right angle mounting, you will avoid magnetic coupling between different sections of the crossover."

gab

flavo

Now that is some damn good info right there Gab. I wish I had seen that before I built this.
My typical fashion  of winging it has bitten me.
I can get them farther apart but all in the same plain. What happens if I squash the coil a bit? It's 2.25" right now and I'm not going to get it vertical without redesigning my already built cabinets.

gab

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Any reasons why this layout won't work?
I hope not as it's semi permanent at this point  :?



Flavo - if you can't lift that middle inductor due to height, I'd get it as high as I could in the enclosure and then relocate all 3 inductors as far away from each other as possible which means the corners for the top and bottom and far left for the middle. Or you could find another location for the middle inductor far away from the other 2 (i.e., outside the crossover box). Or hope for the best I suppose with what you got! You wouldn't be the first! Good luck and let us know where you end up. Great woodworking BTW.

Edit - did you see this layout info courtesy of Troels? Top of pg 7

https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=83325.120



gab

flavo

Thanks for that Gab, that's definitely very helpful.  I can see now, looking back, why Ed's X-O was laid out as it was. I'm going to go with your suggestion of getting all the coils as far apart as possible for now. If the design ends up not working, will it be audibly obvious, or just not as good as Danny designed it?
I.e., do you think I'll be able to tell? In which case I'll probably build the X-O externally.
Thank you

flavo


I certainly haven't made it any prettier.
But maybe this will work?

Danny, when you were designing this, where did you envision the X-O board would go?
I'm considering just building it separately and having it outside the cabinet.



Captainhemo

Mike, when I came up with the cabinets I figured most  would  just  place the networks on top of the bases behind the  lower  M165NQ ( why we left a bit of extra space below that lower  woofer.)  Basically it was the same  idea as the   full size Otica's and  Wedgies..
Figured if  some wanted  to hide them, they'd get  creative as you've done Unfortunately, you  have the one little  glitch in your  layout :(.

As for that inductor,  I don't think you'd actually   notice   any   obvious  change, it'd be subtle but  you    may  have some slight interference  and  a difference in the response.
that last  layout  is about as good as you're gonna get without flipping at least one  inductor on it's edge
If you   re-wired it   and put the  large low pass inductor in one  corner,  the    tweeter  inductor  in the opposite ( on diaganol) corner  and the  small  LCR   in between them on  it's edge, you   may have  enough height  clearence .  not sure

jay

mkane

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  Great thread and could be my next build. Are the  Otica's still available as a flat pack. thanks

gab

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Flavo - I think if I were in your shoes, I would go with your latest layout, although I don't have a frame of reference as to the center to center distances on the inductors. If its like 8" between centers, I'd try it out before more drastic measures. You could also rewire as Jay suggested above. Maybe Danny can weigh in here.

gab

Danny Richie

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The placement of the one in the middle is fine, just turn it up on it's edge.

flavo

The only way I could get the coil on it's side is if I squash 3/4" out of it in a vice. I could route holes in my cabinet that could accommodate that. I'm guessing that's a no no though?


They sound great to my complete amateur ear so far. I've had them running all day in the garage/shop.  Jay mentioned that I might get an off response. I'm assuming that would be noticeable if and when measurements were taken? Turns out I've got a friend that travels the world training people how to use software to set up for concerts and such and is planning on coming over to measure and help me set up at some point.
Is there a base line I'm looking for that I can give him, that would either be on or off if my X-O needs to be reworked? 

This is the company I'm referring to FWIW.
http://www.rationalacoustics.com/about/

mkane

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  Great thread and could be my next build. Are the  Otica's still available as a flat pack. thanks
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S Clark

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The only way I could get the coil on it's side is if I squash 3/4" out of it in a vice. I could route holes in my cabinet that could accommodate that. I'm guessing that's a no no though?


They sound great to my complete amateur ear so far. I've had them running all day in the garage/shop.  Jay mentioned that I might get an off response. I'm assuming that would be noticeable if and when measurements were taken? Turns out I've got a friend that travels the world training people how to use software to set up for concerts and such and is planning on coming over to measure and help me set up at some point.
Is there a base line I'm looking for that I can give him, that would either be on or off if my X-O needs to be reworked? 

This is the company I'm referring to FWIW.
http://www.rationalacoustics.com/about/
The coil arrangement aligns the fields to overlap (and interact).  Fortunately, you've got them several inches apart, so I doubt if it's much of a problem.  Leave it.  Not worth trying to modify to turn that middle inductor. 

flavo

  Great thread and could be my next build. Are the  Otica's still available as a flat pack. thanks

Thanks! They are definitely available still.
If you like this thread, be sure to check ed's (eBag) post as well. I found it very helpful when making my set up.
When I'm on my PC I'll look up the link and post it.
Any questions please feel free to ask.

flavo

The coil arrangement aligns the fields to overlap (and interact).  Fortunately, you've got them several inches apart, so I doubt if it's much of a problem.  Leave it.  Not worth trying to modify to turn that middle inductor.

Right or wrong, I'm going with this! HAHA.

I'm hoping it's fine and appreciate your thoughts.

I'd still like to know about the measurements though, as I've got a pro who will be taking some:

mkane

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flavo, thanks. I have read every post I can come up with concerning the Otica. If I can get them as a flat pack with drivers that would save a bit of searching. I was hoping Richie would chime in

Captainhemo

  Great thread and could be my next build. Are the  Otica's still available as a flat pack. thanks

We're in the middle  of migrating to a  new CNC  shop, it is taking longer  than  we'd thought.
behind on a  few orders  but trying to replenish stock asap

they are sold in a complete kit though, you'll get  all parts needed, drivers & screws, cross over parts,  wire, solder, shrink tube,  tube connectors,   and the  cnc'd  flat packs  that are  easy to assemble.


jay

mkane

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  Jay, can't thank you enough for your post. The kit is what I'm looking for. I would be grateful if you could post a link where I could get on a waitlist. Thanks, MKane


Edit: room is 26x17

mkane

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   And, how about an opinion on going active with these. As of late I'm on a D Class amp kick and using a Nini DSP.