AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => The Lab => Topic started by: schw06 on 28 Dec 2008, 02:10 pm
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I am looking to build my own rack for components and looking for a quality DIY rack. It can be either tall or wide and I'd like to keep it under $400. Thanks!
Dave
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Think outside the box:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51105/DSCN1251.JPG)
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I like the concept of the flexi-rack. I have my audio room on a carpeted floor above concrete. What would be the best feet to put on a rack like that?
Dave
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Check out the following link:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1001889380&openflup&11&4#11 (http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1001889380&openflup&11&4#11)
Ken Lyon of Neuance provided the recipe above as a cheap alternative based on the same principles as his high-end shelves. I use the "ikea-lyte" rack, but have compared it to nothing so cannot attest to its relative merits. However, it certainly is pretty cheap.
Here's an Audio Asylum discussion about rack: http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/119770.html (http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/119770.html)
Chad
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Think outside the box:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51105/DSCN1251.JPG)
Did you raise your HT3s for a reason?
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I'd just leave the rods as the feet, or if you like spikes, just grind the bottoms of the rod into points.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=12&pos=11
Thats exactly what I did. This is an old pic. I've since added a 2" thick maple laminated shelf on top.
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I used 80/20 aluminum. Shelves are infinitely adjustable.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=14727)
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The flexi rack is a good option if you don't need a lot of shelves. I built mine with Pennsylvania purple slate.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=5886)
I was going for a rustic look.
It started as a 36 inch high rack with four shelves but as my system keeps getting less complex I reduced the size of the rack. It seems extremely rigid and the slate is a fairly inert stone.
After building this one I looked into granite for a more refined looking rack. The cost for three stones with holes drilled was prohibitive, don't remember exactly but my guess is $150 each. Good luck whichever way you go.
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My goal is a flexi rack. I like the idea of adjustable shelves and no supports in the middle for a center channel. Not that I would every have a center but you never know. It will be 8' wide and 24-30" tall, low profile. Three shelves and plenty of room for monos, power conditioners, xo's, dvd's, dac's and a Samsung LED if I break down and add video. I'm figuring 2" maple for the top shelves and a 3" for the bottom. Total cost should be under a grand. And since I don't want to get shot by my wife, it will be this summer before it is created. :(
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Here's what I built. IKEA butcher block table, cut to make the legs. MDF boxes filled with 50lbs of sand each. IKEA butcher block cutting boards for the shelves on top of the sand with some basic foam weather stripping around the edges so the sand isn't exposed. Some Spikes on the bottom and bolts from Home Dopey.
Enjoy,
Bob
(http://cgim.audiogon.com/i/vs/i/f/1155818474.jpg)
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I've decided to build a flexi-rack. Living in Atlanta, I'll get the brass rods and bolts from Mcamaster-Carr locally. For shelf material, is there a consensus on best...Maple, marble, granite, pine?????
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I'd go with maple. Have you priced the brass rods, nuts and washers?
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If you keep the spl's "reasonable" the rack will not affect the sound. Just buy something that fits the equipment and looks good. Footfalls and turntables on soft wooden floors is another matter, in that case mount the supporting shelf to a solid interior wall (hopefully one that doesn't have a door on it).
Since I'm a well seasoned old fart (and reasonable) I use a solid looking $30 Ikea nightstand, leaving the wheels off (but keep the posts for the wheels on). It's small, but holds my small monoblocks, pre-amp, and CDP without stacking. I bought two (to have a matching side table and a 2nd adjustable shelf.
The ultimate rack is no rack. Place all components directly on a concrete slab that rests directly on earth in a different room (or inside a bomb shelter) and use spikes. Avoid turntables and tubes (as highly susceptable to air borne vibrations). Dampen panels of the cases of each component.
If your floor is solid and massive (like concrete slab on grade) go with spikes and rigidity. If not, try various spongy pads/feet. Isolation and increased mass are always good. I see no acoustic value to having a rack that could flex horizontally. Most audiophiles choose maple, a hard wood, that can be stained/etc. See Mapleshade for their huge "flexi-racks".
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Check this out. Dave (Joules) made his racks shown here. He told me that after seeing my Adona rack, he researched and got all the parts from various places and put them together. Nice job and I think it's much cheaper than what Adona charges even though he used some things that he already had. :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=8660)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=8659)
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Here is a good thread.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=32713.0
On page 2, tooblover has a link to an inexpensive butcher block internet sales place. Some threaded rod and these butcher blocks would make a great inexpensive rack.
Toobluvr actually built a really nice rack...check it out. It was a lot of work but he got a great result in the end.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1465
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Very cool looking racks, woodsyi!!
The extruded aluminum posts look very much like the 80/20 stuff I used.
Great material to work with. Very strong and always square, straight and true. :thumb:
It took me a while to find all the used butcher block tables, but I did the whole project for about $300.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=16244)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=16245)
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Nice, clean design. :thumb: What did you use for feet?
-Roy
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Nice, clean design. :thumb: What did you use for feet?
-Roy
The 80/20 posts have a center channel in them. I threaded it and just screwed in some heavy hex bolts for feet. This way I can screw them in and out to level things. I glued some heavy felt protector pads to the bolt heads to protect the wooden floors and make it easier to slide the rack across the floor, should I need to.
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What kinda saw to cut the 80/20 extrusions? They look great toobluver. Like a $1000+ commercial product! :thumb:
Link to 80/20 (http://www.8020.net/) for those interested.
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What kinda saw to cut the 80/20 extrusions? They look great toobluver. Like a $1000+ commercial product! :thumb:
Link to 80/20 (http://www.8020.net/) for those interested.
My brother cut them for me on his band saw. Obviously, precision is important.
If you know the lengths you want, 80/20 will cut them for you. They will also cut any threads that you need. Needless to say, their work will be very precise.
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Hi Toobluvr,
This type of extrusion is available in the UK for use as framework for exhibition stands. There are a lot of usefull fixing accessories available to facilitate structural assembly.
I used heavy duty 45mm square extrusion as a frame/support for my 2 metre line array loudspeakers. I had to have custom threaded spikes machined to provide secure floor coupling. I was pleased with the result and they look good as well.
I have been considering the design of a matching equipment stand to keep the theme going and really like the simple solid look of the extrusion frame/butcher's block stand.
One of the things I had to consider with the line arrays was the resonance of long extrusion lengths. This required considerable cross bracing, with extrusion section, to reduce any resonances to an acceptable level. This should not be problematical with your design due to the bracing provided by the butcher's blocks.
Regards
Paul
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What kinda saw to cut the 80/20 extrusions? They look great toobluver. Like a $1000+ commercial product! :thumb:
Link to 80/20 (http://www.8020.net/) for those interested.
Rich, I cut these on a DeWalt miter saw with non-ferrous metal blade. Same thing for aluminum heatsinks, angles, stock, etc. for my amps. Not nearly as precise as the factory, but good enough for most of my work, then just clean up the ends with tools of choice. Always wear a face shield if cutting these small parts with a big blade.
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Tom, did you get your stuff at the factory?
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Tom, did you get your stuff at the factory?
That would be fairly easy, but I just got some scraps from a guy at work who has built displays. I wanted to work with them a little bit. The 80/20 stuff is really nice, but expensive if you buy all new stock. They have a lot of seconds that apparently you can get on ebay or just visit and tell them what you're looking for.
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80/20 does have an E-Bay store....can't remember their handle at the monent. But I'm not sure if they offer full product range, or just selected pieces. And I don't how the store prices compare to buying the normal way.
The normal way to buy 80-20 products is thru a dealer network. I contacted 80-20 directly and they would not sell to me...put me in touch with the local dealer.
As a rough guide, figure about 50 cents per inch for the extruded aluminum posts. The attaching hardware and other accessories are reasonable.
Several well known, and very pricey, companies use the product in their racks and stands. Namely, Adonna and Salamander. A local NYC guy who sells on AG also uses it. Search on "Blinn":
http://www.steveblinndesigns.com/
Make it yourself. Much cheaper and greater flexibility in getting the desired design and outcome.
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Hi Paul....
I'd love to see your product. Can you post photos or a link?
Thanks....John
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80/20 does have an E-Bay store....can't remember their handle at the monent. But I'm not sure if they offer full product range, or just selected pieces. And I don't how the store prices compare to buying the normal way.
The normal way to buy 80-20 products is thru a dealer network. I contacted 80-20 directly and they would not sell to me...put me in touch with the local dealer.
As a rough guide, figure about 50 cents per inch for the extruded aluminum posts. The attaching hardware and other accessories are reasonable.
Several well known, and very pricey, companies use the product in their racks and stands. Namely, Adonna and Salamander. A local NYC guy who sells on AG also uses it. Search on "Blinn":
http://www.steveblinndesigns.com/
Make it yourself. Much cheaper and greater flexibility in getting the desired design and outcome.
I bought my pieces from their ebay store. They sell leftover pieces from their big orders, so the prices tend to be cheaper than their regular catalog. I have a friend who has a workshop and he cut the pieces to the sizes I needed. I even got the fasteners from their ebay store.
Paul
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Anyone have the eBay link ? :thumb:
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Anyone have the eBay link ? :thumb:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale__W0QQ_armrsZ1 (http://stores.shop.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale__W0QQ_armrsZ1)
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Thank you Tom.... :thumb:
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Hi John,
The line source array is not a product. I built them for my own use. I have been messing around with line source designs for a while now and a couple of years ago I decided to get serious with it. I wanted to keep it simple but I required very high performance capable of generating the illusion of a live performance. After a period of analysis I settled on an open baffle line source configuration. I did not want any crossovers to mess up the phase response/musical timing so I looked for a good full range driver capable of open baffle use. The results are very satisfying. They are incredibly efficient with very low distortion and only require a few watts for concert levels in our listening room.
http://s700.photobucket.com/albums/ww7/paulhynes/th_Picture036.jpg
http://s700.photobucket.com/albums/ww7/paulhynes/th_Picture039.jpg
These are old photos from when we used to live in Cumbria (England). I have not taken any new photos yet as I want to finish the listening room installation first.
Regards
Paul
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Nice Paul!
Another creative use of the 80-20 product.
:thumb:
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Check this out. Dave (Joules) made his racks shown here. He told me that after seeing my Adona rack, he researched and got all the parts from various places and put them together. Nice job and I think it's much cheaper than what Adona charges even though he used some things that he already had. :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=8660)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=8659)
Great site with lots of great information. I've been looking into DIY racks for months now. I've been leaning toward a rigid Flexy rack design using 3/4" to 1" threaded rod and maple butcher blocks. Then I ran across this site and the 80/20 T-Slot material.
I love these racks. I've put together a couple of 4 shelf 48" tall design ideas using 80/20 T-Slot material and butcher block shelves. I sent off for quotes from two local 80/20 dealers.
I am looking at both the 1515 and 3030 T-slot material. The 1515 seems strong enough but pretty light. I am considering filling or partially filling the center cavity of the 3030 with lead shot or sand for a more substantial rack. I'll be interested in what the quotes look like. The 3030 rack uses considerably more parts than the 1515 rack.
What is the cross section used on the legs for these racks?
Thanks,
Martin
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Hey Martin....
Any photos of your projects?
I've built with 80-20 and would like to do so again, so I am always curious about different approaches and designs.
Thanks!
John
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Hey Martin....
Any photos of your projects?
I've built with 80-20 and would like to do so again, so I am always curious about different approaches and designs.
Thanks!
John
No pictures yet but I am going to build one using my 1515 design. I just sent emails requesting quotes for all the pieces.
The 3030 is overkill but would be an interesting experiment.
The plan is to use four 48" 1515 legs with three "X" shelf supports made using 1515 pieces and anchor fasteners supporting 24" x 24" x 1-7/8" butcher block shelves on small 1/4"-20 spikes. The top and bottom of the legs will be 5/16"-18 tapped and I'll use larger spikes on both ends, the top supporting a larger 30" x 30" x 2-7/8" butcher block shelf for my turntable. From 80/20's deflection calculations the shelf supports should be strong enough to support 200 lbs. each with less than .002" deflection.
I fully expect to be able to build this for under $700 and I think it would compare very favorably with units costing $1500 to $2000 from some of the names already mentioned in this and related threads.
I'll post pics when complete.
I like the rack in your system pics - that looks like a substantial hunk of granite under your turntable.
Martin
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Yeah....
That granite was a ball buster! 3' thick and 150 lbs!
But that's my old rack, which is sold. You can just barely see it to the left.
My current one is 80-20 + butcher block.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=16244)
More photos:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1465
As you can see, I made no attempt at isolating or coupling the shelves.
I simply attached the butcher block shelves to the 80-20 uprights with "L" brackets provided by 80-20.
Nor did I use any horizontal bracing or "X" cross members. I'm sure it would be more massive and rigid if I had, but I was going for a more open and clean look. Cost was also a consideration.
The Blinn stuff uses horizontal members arranged in a rectangular fashion:
(http://www.steveblinndesigns.com/sitebuilder/images/sbdrack4-443x251.jpg)
It's hard to see what's going on under his shelving, but I suspect some sort of spike system....or other method of coupling / isolating.
From a strictly visual point of view, I prefer my design.
I have no idea which one "sounds" better.
If I were to use horizontal bracing, I would go with an "X" system as you have chosen to. I think it just looks cleaner and less chunky than the rectangular bracing. I believe Adona also uses the "X" system.
Your design sounds real nice, Martin.
I'm sure it will turn out beautifully. :thumb:
It is similar to what I would have done if $$ had not been a factor. I was given the 80-20, and my objective was to get it done as cheaply as possible w/o sacrificing visual appeal, and too much in the way of performance. I think it cost me about $250 in total.
Good luck, and be sure to post some photos when done.
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John,
Very nice job on the rack! I must say I like the looks of your rack much better than the Blinn design, much more elegant. Is that an Opera Consonance CD-120 Linear I see on the second shelf? How do you like it? I thought it was a great sounding CD player. I just sold mine to finance the purchase of a Parasound Halo D 3 to go in my system. I already have a Parasound Halo P 3 preamp and A 21 amp. I also have an Opera Consonance LP-2.0 turntable. Nice piece.
For the rack I am trying for something more along the lines of Adona's racks without the associated cost. I have all the quotes in hand and it looks like it's going to cost me about $700 at retail including tax and shipping. Sure beats $1500! I plan to order all the pieces today and hope to have it together in the next 2 weeks. I'll definitely be posting pictures.
Martin
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John,
Very nice job on the rack! I must say I like the looks of your rack much better than the Blinn design, much more elegant. Is that an Opera Consonance CD-120 Linear I see on the second shelf? How do you like it? I thought it was a great sounding CD player. I just sold mine to finance the purchase of a Parasound Halo D 3 to go in my system. I already have a Parasound Halo P 3 preamp and A 21 amp. I also have an Opera Consonance LP-2.0 turntable. Nice piece.
For the rack I am trying for something more along the lines of Adona's racks without the associated cost. I have all the quotes in hand and it looks like it's going to cost me about $700 at retail including tax and shipping. Sure beats $1500! I plan to order all the pieces today and hope to have it together in the next 2 weeks. I'll definitely be posting pictures.
Martin
Good eyes, Martin.
Consonance CD-120 Linear is on the shelf above the amps.
The player above it is a Talk Thunder 3.1B.
I think the 120 Linear is an excellent excellent player at its price point. I also owned the Consonance 2.2 Linear ---- its pricier (and supposedly superior) stablemate. I much prefer the 120. As surprising as it sounds, the solid state 120 sounds more liquid and "tooby" than the tubed 2.2!
I found the 2.2 dry and too insistent and aggressive in the highs. The 120's presentation is warmer and better balanced, and overall just more relaxed, musical and engaging. It doesn't have the dimensionality and palpability of expensive players, but its tone, detail and harmonics are very good.
The 120 acquits itself quite well against the stalwarts in the modest price / good performance arena: EE Minimax, Rega Appollo. I have had both in my system and they are both excellent, but I think I prefer the 120.
On your rack...
Is the butcher block included in your total cost?
Where are you getting it, and what is its cost?
~ John
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John
You seem to like 120's Dodd , Consanance aa
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On your rack...
Is the butcher block included in your total cost?
Where are you getting it, and what is its cost?
~ John
The best prices I have found were on another thread here in these forums: http://www.perfectplank.com/maple_butcher_block_tops.html (http://www.perfectplank.com/maple_butcher_block_tops.html). I had been looking elsewhere including Timbernation and a couple of other mom & pop shops. All too expensive. I have not gotten Perfect Plank's quote yet but their prices are on their website. Do you know of anyplace less expensive?
Martin
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I provided that address for PerfectPlank in an earlier post.
When doing the research for my rack, they were the cheapest online BB vendor I found. But I did not buy from them because coast-to-coast shipping costs were insane. In the quote they gave me, the shipping was more expensive than the product itself!!
:roll:
If you can find a local company with the same product, that would be the cheapest way to go since no shipping is involved.
Notice in the photo how the "finger joint" is exposed. You usually see this on BB of lesser quality. Compared to a "butt joint", a finger joint is stronger because gluing surfaces are maximized. I think most butcher block uses finger joints. But really good (and expensive) block uses narrower rails and buries the finger joints for a cleaner look. That is, they look like butt joints.
I could be wrong, but in my experience:
narrow rails + buried finger joints (or butt joint) = better quality and expensive
wider rails + exposed finger joints = lesser quality and cheaper
PerfectPlank is the latter, hence the reasonable prices.
more info:
http://www.mapleblock.com/detail/the-language-of-butcher-block-61/
I think this is purely an aesthetic consideration, and for your purposes, I'm sure PerfectPlank will be just fine. Matter of fact, my 2 middle shelves have wide rails and exposed finger joint construction.....just like the PerfectPlank product. My top and bottom shelf are of noticeably better quality BB. It is thicker with narrower rails and what appears to be butt joint construction. But when all the gear is loaded on it, no-one notices the differences.
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Toobluvr:
Do you know the part# for those 80/20 round posts? I was looking and could not find them. I am looking to build a set of speaker stands.
Thanks
Kris
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Toobluvr:
Do you know the part# for those 80/20 round posts? I was looking and could not find them. I am looking to build a set of speaker stands.
Thanks
Kris
Kris,
I used the square profile stuff, not rounded.
But you will find what you seek here:
http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-2.asp
Left margin, under "T-slot framing", click on the various profiles to see all the designs and styles that are offered.
~ John
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Luckily Perfect Plank is located only about 2-1/2 hours away. They came back with $40 for shipping and very reasonable prices. $40 vs. 5 hour round trip - I think I'll have them ship. :D I don't mind the visible finger joints. I actually like the way they look. I am ordering everything today.
Martin
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Very cool Martin! :thumb:
Which wood are you getting, and what thickness?
Will they cut them to size, and router the edges?
Do they finish them, or do you apply the stain and sealant?
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They are cutting them to size. I am getting their standard maple butcher blocks with 1-7/8" thick under my preamp and CD-player and 2-7/8" thick under my amp and turntable. All are 18" x 18" except the top turntable shelf which is 24" x 24". They come unfinished; I plan on using a gel stain and polyurethane clear coat. I may round over the edges.
Martin
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Phase one complete.
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/rack1.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/rack2.jpg)
Martin
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Shaping up nicely, Martin!
I can already tell that the outcome will be great!
:thumb:
What profile of 80-20 is that?
Do you plan to use any isolation or coupling between the 80-20 cross members and BB shelves?
What will you use?
How will you anchor the legs to the floor?
Inquiring minds.....
~John
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Shaping up nicely, Martin!
I can already tell that the outcome will be great!
:thumb:
What profile of 80-20 is that?
Do you plan to use any isolation or coupling between the 80-20 cross members and BB shelves?
What will you use?
How will you anchor the legs to the floor?
Inquiring minds.....
~John
Thanks, John.
I am using the 1515 profile. I had it in my head that extruded aluminum would be light and I was somewhat worried about it's weight bearing capacity. 80/20's deflection calculator allayed my fears on strength but I was still under the impression it would be light weight. Boy was I wrong! The 1515 profile is significantly more substantial than I had anticipated. The frame alone is 42 lbs.
As far as shelf isolation/coupling and floor anchors go I have just one thing to say - spikes, spikes, and more spikes. :D I will continue posting pictures and details as the build continues.
Martin
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OK....
I went with the 40-4040 Lite.
I did not even investigate the "lite" vs the regular.
My brother is an engineer and he built an entire workshop and small assembly plant with the 4040 Lite. He said it was incredibly strong and would be fine for my needs. I sure hope so! My rack is 4 double wide shelves....about twice as big as yours. And I don't have the additional support of the cross members!
In terms of dimensions, your 1515 fractional is almost identical to my 40-4040 metric. Mine is slightly larger by 2mm on each side, and despite being "lite", it is only .04 lbs per foot lighter. The main diff appears to be that yours has more ridges on it.
Any particular reason your chose fractional over metric, and ridged over smooth? Maybe pricing effected your decision. I got my stuff gratis, so I did not even price it up.
The stuff really is beautifully made, and very easy to work with.
And it is quite gratifying to circumvent the rip-off hi-end companies (ie. Adona) and be able to easily make something just as nice and effective. I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!
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John....
I think most of your time was spent building the butcher block shelves...correct ?
I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!
Hey....come on....this is a HI-END hobby.... :jester:
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John....
I think most of your time was spent building the butcher block shelves...correct ?
I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!
Hey....come on....this is a HI-END hobby.... :jester:
Correct Chris.
For my rack, 99.9% of the time was spent doing the cutting/stripping/sanding/refinishing.
If everything was new and ready to go, slapping it together is a piece of cake!
Regarding prices in audio land.....
Stuff like this galls me!
http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ANITVACSWE
Why in the hell should a few tiny pieces of fabric cost almost 20 bucks!!
:cuss:
It is just one of numerous examples. And not even the most egregious one, at that!
I think it's disgraceful and a ripoff.
:finger:
It makes "outsiders" laugh at us, and roll their eyes and think we are a joke.
And I agree with them!
I need to replace mine....maybe I'll just cut up a pair of old corduroy pants.
Should I cryo them first?
:lol:
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I need to replace mine....maybe I'll just cut up a pair of old corduroy pants.
Should I cryo them first?
Sure..stick them in the freezer...there you go John...."american ingenuity".... :thumb: :lol:
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I chose the 1515 for no particular reason. I just thought the 1010 would be too small, the 1515-lite too light, and looked at but never considered the metric sizes - I just thought I was going to be buying butcher block in Imperial units so I might as well stick to them for the T-Slot, too. I had not noticed that the 4040 was smooth while the 1515 had ridges. I was considering the 1501 and 1502 profiles for a cleaner look. I guess the 4001 and 4002 would be cleaner still. Something I may have to consider...
I agree with you on how well made the material is and how really easy it is to work with and to design with. It is exactly as 80/20 advertises - The Industrial Erector Set.
Martin
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Lumber Liquidators has numerous stores in some areas. I think shipping is still free to the stores. No custom sizing or cutting.
1.5" x 25" x 8' $200 made by Williamsburg Butcher Block Co.
http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/gsa_search_command.cmd?form_state=searchForm&form_state=searchForm&keyword=butcher+block&Go.x=11&Go.y=14
The maple BB I bought there several years ago was high quality.
25" x 8' slabs are real fun to muscle and cut. :green: I think it could have used a little more drying first. Finished up just like I wanted (satin with no build-up) with OSMO Hardwax Oil http://www.vtpf.com/finishes.html
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John....
I think most of your time was spent building the butcher block shelves...correct ?
I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!
Hey....come on....this is a HI-END hobby.... :jester:
I just built this for less than $160.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_e4Py2CyXq_E/SdekUPhDRRI/AAAAAAAAAKs/VRkkUkevgxA/s640/P1070083.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_e4Py2CyXq_E/SdekSdgSREI/AAAAAAAAAKk/U1oJjV3XiD4/s640/P1070092.JPG)
Excuse me but I should have tidied up all the interconnects, etc. :oops:
Wood ~$70, fasteners ~$50, Minwax polycrilic finish $10 + brushes, sandpaper, etc.
It may be a little industrial looking but I think it matches the rather functional appearance of my components.
I thought about covering the threaded rods with cut-to-fit copper tubing but decided that if I ever wanted change the spacing that the whole operation would be too labor intensive.
I tediously cut (40) 5/8" mass loaded vinyl washers to isolate each shelf and protect the finish. Once I cranked down on the nuts sandwiching the shelves and loaded the shelves with the 50 lbs of monoblocks the whole assembly became stable without adding some sort of cross bracing. If I want to add more mass I can just stack pieces of granite or ? on the shelves.
The shelves are not air dried hard maple harvested by the Amish but I can always use bits of tonewood such as Myrtle for footers.
A friend of mine has a machine shop so I may have him fabricate some brass footers out of old brass shaft stock that would simply screw on to the threaded rods and the stand would then be easy to level.
-Roy
-
Nicely done, Roy! :thumb:
How did you get so much butcher block so cheaply?
-
Nicely done, Roy! :thumb:
How did you get so much butcher block so cheaply?
Thanks!
Actually it's meranti which I found on sale for $4.00/brd. ft. I'm lucky to be near Edensaw Woods. http://www.edensaw.com/index.asp
Edensaw is an excellent source for exotic hardwoods, high end plywoods, veneers and flooring. Their large warehouse is a great place to browse. They have over 100 species of hardwoods from Angelique to Ziricote They also had maple available but I decided to with the Meranti. I wanted to keep the cost to less than $200 total.
-Roy
-
Looks good Roy ! :thumb:
-
Nicely done, Roy! :thumb:
How did you get so much butcher block so cheaply?
I'll echo that - very nice. I was looking at threaded rod, too. How did you get it and the fasteners so cheaply? What diameter rod did you use?
Martin
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Phase one-and-one-half - It's coming together...
Received butcher block today. The top and bottom shelf are 2-7/8" thick and the middle two are 1-7/8". Still need spikes for posts and shelves. I will stain and polyeurethane the butcher block shelves this weekend.
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/rack3.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/rack4.jpg)
Martin
-
I would round off all the sharp edges, Martin.
That's what I did with mine, and I think it looks nicer......just a bit softer and more finished.
A router is easiest, but not required.
I used a both a belt sander and a 1/4 sheet finishing sander to knock off the edges. Careful with the belt sander. Very easy to take off too much! Just a few light and steady passes with medium grit does it.
Lots more work but it can even be done by hand with a sanding block.
Good luck.....you are almost there!
:thumb:
-
Nicely done, Roy! :thumb:
How did you get so much butcher block so cheaply?
I'll echo that - very nice. I was looking at threaded rod, too. How did you get it and the fasteners so cheaply? What diameter rod did you use?
Martin
Thanks Martin,
Your rack is looking good too. :thumb:
I used 5/8" rod which was rather inexpensive...~$5 each 36". The nuts and washers seemed expensive by comparison. Nuts about 70 cents each. Washers ~50 cents each. 5/8" all thread was big enough for 19"x 13" shelves. If you were going to have larger and more rectangular shelves you may want larger. Actually the total fastener costs was probably about $70. So... $60 wood $70 fast. $10 finish.
-Roy
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John -
I have a router and do plan to ease the edges. I'll probably use a 1/8" radius roundover bit. I plan to stain the shelves rosewood to match my speakers.
Roy -
I've always looked at 3/4" and 1" acme threaded rod and that stuff is expensive. The nuts and washers get pretty pricey, too, at least at Enco.com. I think I tend to overengineer things. The rack I'm building would probably hold a small car. :lol:
Martin
-
I am looking for someone to make me a rack, as the retail ones are all too costly. Does anyone want to be commissioned for a DIY rack project?
-
Almost there - spikes came today...
Test fit of my Parasound Halo components. Now I just need to finish the shelves.
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/rack5.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/rack6.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/rack7.jpg)
Martin
-
And some detail shots:
Bottom spikes...
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/floorspike.jpg)
Shelf support spikes...
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/shelfspike.jpg)
Top spikes...
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/topspike.jpg)
Turntable shelf...
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/turntableshelf.jpg)
Martin
-
Martin,
Ingenious use of spikes. Looks great. :thumb:
-Roy
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Complete!
I really like the way the rack turned out. My finish work could be a little more professional looking but I'm happy. Tomorrow will be 72 hours since the last coat of polyurethane. I'll post pictures of the rack with my components then. Also I think it could also easily be 6" shorter. The posts are 48". I may have them cut down and retapped, or maybe not.
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/finished rack 1.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/finished rack 2.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/finished rack 3.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/finished rack 4.jpg)
Martin
-
Nice job Martin...really looks good !! 8) :rock:
What is your final total cost for the rack ?
Thanks for all the photo's... :thumb:
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Love the spikes Martin.....especially the bottom ones.
They look pretty serious, and make me think of this! :duel:
Mind the toes when placing this thing! :o
Are they the same as the top ones?
How did you attach the ones underneath the middle shelves to the cross bracing?
Where did you get them, and what is the cost?
Thanks,
John
PS: really excellent result! :thumb:
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Final cost including taxes and shipping...
80/20 aluminum frame: $412.92
Maple butcher block: $246.99
Spikes: $124.05
Stain, polyurethane, brushes, etc.: $50.07
Grand Total: $834.03 + about 8 hours of my time
Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination. It is a good deal when you consider a similar rack would easily be double that amount from any of the online sellers. Speaking of online sellers, the spikes I used all came from one of them. (The name starts with and ends with an A.) I used 2-1/8" brass cones for the feet, 1-1/2" for the top, and the 5/8" under the shelves. The top and bottom spikes are threaded into the legs and the ones under the shelves are threaded into 3310 drop in t-nuts with set screws.
Martin
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C'mon now Martin......
There are no secrets here.
Spill the beans on the spike vendor!
:lol:
I'm sure he'd appreciate the plug!
:thumb:
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Looks nice, Martin.
If you gave the rack a bump, would it flex or is the 80/20 connection solid enough that it would lift off the floor rather than flexing? Kinda tough question I guess...let me reword it. If you were to remove the maple shelves and pick the rack up, could you grab a leg on each side and get it to twist a little or are the connections very rigid? I've been thinking about using this material myself but never having gotten my hands on it before so I'm not sure how rigid it is?
c.
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The rack actually has a problem with torsional rigidity. If you twist the top shelf the rack torques about its central axis like a spring until it settles and stops. It is extremely stable side to side. I am looking at how best to mitigate the springiness. I think that if I rigidly tie together the posts under the top platform with a square rather than the cross like I have under the other shelves then it will be much more stable. Another possibility would be to bolt the top shelf to the tops of the posts. I originally thought of building a sand box isolation platform for the top and bolting the legs directly to the bottom of the sand box. I am using it as is until I figure out how best to fix it. In normal use it moves only if bumped.
Martin
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Hey Martin...
I thought the top shelf was just sitting on top of the spikes...not attached to anything.
How does moving or twisting it have any effect on the 80-20 frame at all? Seems to me the butcher block would just slide out of position.
:scratch:
All of your possible solutions should prevent the twisting. So would running a length of flat strapping iron diagonally from top to bottom in the rear, basically tying the two rear posts together. But that would kindof mess up the clean visuals.
-
Martin,
I think that adding pieces length, width..., in other words add perimeter pieces top and bottom shelves only would help the twisting problem. Maybe bolt one or two of the Maple shelves to the frame for torsional stiffness. You're right, the diagonal pieces are mostly for side to side stability.
-Roy
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Martin,
I think that adding pieces length, width..., in other words add perimeter pieces top and bottom shelves only would help the twisting problem. Maybe bolt one or two of the Maple shelves to the frame for torsional stiffness. You're right, the diagonal pieces are mostly for side to side stability.
-Roy
I agree that framing out top and bottom shelves with horizontal 80-20.....a la Steve Blinn designs....would solve the twisting. But visually not the best solution. Mixing it in with the "X" cross members would not look good at all. And since his posts are kindof rotated in maybe 45 degrees and not squared up, attaching the pieces (unless the ends are cut on a perfect angle) will be difficult.
Actually attaching the corner of some shelves to the uprights (or even to the cross members) will definitely stop the twisting. That's how mine is built and there is no twisting at all....it is physically impossible. But then the whole spike system is lost.
But my rack sans any cross bracing at all has a different problem. Due to its very wide footprint it is extrememly stable (ie: will not topple over) but not 100% rigid in that if I push on it, there is a very slight wobble.......moreso side-to-side than front-to-back. Doesn't bother me that much, and my system sounds great, so I just left it.
I'm actually surprised there is an issue with twisting at all. With all the posts tied together with the "X" cross members, it just seems impossible intuitively. And it appears Martin built it identical to Adona. I wonder if they twist?
:scratch:
Any engineers in the house?
My brother's a mechanical engineer. I'll run it by him.
-
I was also very surpised by this twisting. Here are two short videos of the rack at its worst. It takes considerable effort to get the rack twisting as in these videos but a slight bump will move it too, just much less noticeably.
http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/racktwist1.MPG (http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/racktwist1.MPG)
http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/racktwist2.MPG (http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/racktwist2.MPG)
I listened to a number of LPs last night at both 33 and 45 RPM and the rack is still, stable and silent. I can ring the posts with a piece of metal and you hear absolutely nothing through the turntable. I am OK as it is and may not do anything to change it but I need to find a solutiion for other reasons.
I had the same thought on asthetics - I really don't want to mix squares and crosses and I don't want to lose the spikes. I may try using wires and small turnbuckles between the top spike threads to see if that stops the twisting. That will be an inexpensive way to test my theories. I also have the same question about the Adona racks. I wonder if they twist and if not, how they solved the issue.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I have sent the problem to my local 80/20 dealer and will see what they have to say. I have also downloaded a trial version of Autocad and 80/20's plug-ins and may try playing with this myself.
Martin
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That video demonstration has got to be a new first for Audio Circle. :lol:
How about taking a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate that matches length and width dimensions of the maple shelves and bolting it to the cross pieces, mounting the spikes to the plate then set the maple on top? Probably only the top and bottom shelves would be needed to be treated this way to eliminate twisting.
-Roy
-
You need to keep the legs (uprights) from moving relative to each other to minimize the twisting motion(I'm an engineer). The connections between the shelf supports and the legs aren't strong enough to resist the twisting you've observed. There are several approaches:
1. Put some diagonals in between adjacent legs. Aesthetically, this could be your turnbuckle and wire system, since you probably wouldn't want to be able to see solid diagonals.
2. Bolt a plate to the back legs, fastening at least twice on each leg. Cut holes for interconnects and power cords to pass through. This can hide the cords from being seen from the front of the rack.
3. Figure out stronger connections between the shelf supports and the legs.
Hope this helps.
-
That video demonstration has got to be a new first for Audio Circle. :lol:
I believe so...and I try to read everything. 8)
Thanks Martin... :thumb:
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Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I'm glad you liked the videos... :D
As I was drifting off to sleep last night I had a :duh: moment and I now know why my rack twists, how to resolve it without compromising aesthetics, and why I am sure Adona’s racks do not twist.
Where my “X” shelf supports attach to the legs I used a single 3360 anchor fastener. These fasteners are among 80/20’s strongest. The issue is that the fastener uses a single 5/16” socket head cap screw in line with the shelf support. This single screw allows the leg to pivot ever so slightly about the axis of the shelf. These shelf fasteners and the weight of the top turntable shelf are what allow the rack to twist.
I believe I can fix this by using the 3098 double anchor fastener. It uses two 5/16” socket head cap screws, one each top and bottom of the shelf support. These two attachment points would not allow the joint to pivot. I believe all shelves anchored with these fasteners would mitigate the twisting issue. If the double anchor fastener does not prove twist resistant enough I can use the 3368 inside corner connectors which I believe definitely would stop the twisting.
I believe Adona’s racks will not twist because they use a different type of cross shelf support that uses attachment points above and below each shelf support.
Martin
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Hey Martin...
Do you need counterbore holes at the end of the "x" member to use those 33xx fasteners?
If so, you will need another one at each post attachment point.
Can you do it, or must it be done at the factory?
Big hassle if the latter!
To attach your cross members to the posts, have you considered simple 8020 "L" brackets like I used?
Think they would work?
-
Both anchor fasteners require counterbores, the "L" brackets and inside corners do not. I had all counterbores done by 80/20 prior to shipment. So my rack may stay as is. I am OK with it as is - it takes quite a hit to get the thing moving. If I disassemble my rack to shorten the legs then I may add something to stabilize it.
I looked at using the 4301 “L” brackets and dismissed them due to cost. I need to revisit that decision.
Total cost including cap screws, t-nuts and machining for each type of connector:
3360 Single anchor fastener - $5.75
3364 Inside corner - $9.00
4301 “L” bracket - $9.10
3098 Double anchor fastener - $11.00
Martin
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I used the 4302 "L" bracket. They were only $2.95 each....lots cheaper than one you looked at!
No good for you?
-
The 4302 has a single bolt attachment to each piece. I think it would have the same pivoting issue in my application. Unless I used two, one on top and one on bottom. That's why I am looking at the 4301.
The 4302 is $5.09 including t-nuts and cap screws.
Martin
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The 4302 has a single bolt attachment to each piece. I think it would have the same pivoting issue in my application. Unless I used two, one on top and one on bottom. That's why I am looking at the 4301.
The 4302 is $5.09 including t-nuts and cap screws.
Martin
Right....I did not include all the fastening hardware.
I paid a bit less than that.......$4.15 for the whole assembly:
4302 corner bracket: 2.95
3838 economy T-nut @ .32 ea: .64 for 2
3813 button head cap screw @ .28 ea: .56 for 2
-
You're prices are correct - I had the wrong price for the cap screws. And I forgot you used the 4040 metric profile and metric fittings.
5/16"-18 x 11/16" button head caps screws - 28 cents
single economy 5/16"-18 t-nut - 27 cents
double economy 5/16"-18 t-nut - 79 cents
The correct prices with hardware and machining:
4302 2 hole "L" bracket - $4.05
3360 Single anchor fastener - $5.75
4301 4 hole “L” bracket - $7.02
3364 Inside corner - $9.00
3098 Double anchor fastener - $11.00
Martin
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I was also very surpised by this twisting. Here are two short videos of the rack at its worst. It takes considerable effort to get the rack twisting as in these videos but a slight bump will move it too, just much less noticeably.
I've found twisting a fairly common artifact of that particular cross-beam design [1]. That said, it's one I haven't found to be a design defect per se. Having now built a few of these types now (as well as a handful of the FleXys) and testing these side-by-side I much prefer the isolation properties of the "twisty" over the "flexy" ;) The key is to not hit it hard enough to move - that rule works for any kind of rack ;)
Excellent job on the design; very impressive work!
--e
[1] http://potlach.org/2007/10/radials/radials-Pages/Image6.html
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Really cool rack, Erimille.
I like the modular approach and the flexibility it offers in using it either
vertically or horizontally....similar to VTI and Lovan, but nicer!
Nice job!
:thumb:
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I'll echo John's comments - that is one nice rack, Erimille!
Looks like we were thinking along the same lines spike-wise. I love that your's is completely realized in wood. Too cool! I also like the flexibility of the separate levels. I was trying to figure out how to do that with the extruded aluminum but could think of no simple, inexpensive way to cap the tops and provide a positive coupling for the spikes. I see you incorprated the floor protector discs into the tops of the posts - neat idea. 80/20 has plastic caps that would work but I thought they may have been a little cheesy. I guess I could drill holes in the caps and set the floor discs in the hole on top of the extrusion...
Martin
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Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I have sent the problem to my local 80/20 dealer and will see what they have to say. I have also downloaded a trial version of Autocad and 80/20's plug-ins and may try playing with this myself.
Martin
Martin,
Adding another X frame at the top and resting the top shelf on it may help. Adona racks do (as you said) have welded plate at the end of the steal x-frames that allow two screws --one above and one below the x-frame -- to attach to the rack posts.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=6011)
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Martin...
caps are available from 80-20. See in my photo here:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=8149)
Don't know the cost.
If you leave the middle screw out, you could anchor the spike right into the hole that is pre-drilled down the middle of the post. Sans screw, you would just need to glue the end cap to keep it in place.
-
The caps look nice. I thought they were held in place with plastic push pins? I like the T-slot covers, too. They dress it up a little bit.
Martin
-
The caps look nice. I thought they were held in place with plastic push pins? I like the T-slot covers, too. They dress it up a little bit.
Martin
The screw down the middle holds the cap in place.
I tried using the T-slot covers, but I decided I prefer the look without them.
-
I am building another, shorter three shelf rack using the 1501 profile on the legs and 1515-L for the shelf supports. I am scaling it back slightly using the lite material, 1-3/8" shelves with a 1-7/8" top shelf. This new rack will go up for sale to test the waters...
Martin
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I am building another, shorter three shelf rack using the 1501 profile on the legs and 1515-L for the shelf supports. I am scaling it back slightly using the lite material, 1-3/8" shelves with a 1-7/8" top shelf. This new rack will go up for sale to test the waters...
Martin
I think that's a smart move, Martin.
:thumb:
Keeping it lower will increase stability and rigidity, and I think should make it less prone to twisting. Plus, I think a lower rack just plain looks better....better propotioned. If you need to add more gear, just add another single wide rack...or build it double wide now like I did.
I'm over six feet and my rack is much lower than yours, so ease of use is not an issue. But visually I'd still prefer it a bit lower. And TT is easier to use at waist level than at chest level.
My uprights are 36 inches long, but once the spikes to floor and top BB shelf are added, it is 40 inches high. And TT is even higher with the BB platforms underneath. I have enough height between shelves, so I'm thinking of chopping it down just a bit.
Have you considered the rounded profiles? Like maybe 1012 or 1517 (fractional), or 40-4030 lite (metric)? Or even the triangular ones with one flat side: 40-4030 lite (metric) or 1547 (fractional)? I think they look really sweet, and make an attractive alternative. If I to build another I would probably use one of them.
Carry on, and keep us posted!
8)
-
My rack did turn out a little too high... that is why I am considering cutting it down. It is usable as is and the turntable is at the same height it was on top of where it prevously sat. I was thinking 48" to the turntable shelf when in reality I added 2-1/8" for the bottom spikes, 1-1/2" for the top spikes, and 2-7/8" for the shelf to bring the total height to 54-1/2".
The rack I am building will have 30" legs and stand 35-7/8" to the surface of the turntable shelf.
I may end up calling it the TwisTy Rack. :D
I looked at the round and triangular profiles and think they would look great using a square shelf supports but I don't think they match up well to my "X" shelf support design.
Martin
-
I may end up calling it the TwisTy Rack. :D
I like it! ;)
--e
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Here is the first item I have created specifically to sell - I call it the Oops! amp stand. (there is a story behind the name) The photos show the frame only - the shelf is on it's way to me and still needs to be finished. I should have pictures with the shelf in two weeks.
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/oopsframe1.jpg)
It is made with 80/20 1515 profile extruded aluminum on 2-1/8" black chrome plated brass tip-toe spikes (floor protector discs will be included) . The legs are 6-5/8" tall including the spikes. The shelf will be 18" x 18" x 1-7/8" thick maple butcher block sitting on 5/8" spikes allowing the top surface of the shelf to sit higher than the tops of the legs. I am building three and will either stain one Brazilian rosewood and leave the other two natural maple or vice-versa; all will be protected with satin polyurethane.
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/oopsframe2.jpg)
Look for it in two to three weeks on Audiogon. It will be posted by seller DKM Design - my company name. Preliminary pricing is $329.99 each and $629.99 for a pair plus shipping. Each ships individually.
(http://home.comcast.net/~martinconley/AC/oopsframe3.jpg)
Any comments?
Martin
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mhconley ...
Look for it in two to three weeks on Audiogon. It will be posted by seller DKM Design - my company name.
Read this link...."You will need to set your signature to meet our guidelines".. :wink:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=42858.0
Good luck with your sale....nice work... :thumb:
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Read this link...."You will need to set your signature to meet our guidelines".. :wink:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=42858.0
Good luck with your sale....nice work... :thumb:
Thanks for the heads up...
Martin
-
Read this link...."You will need to set your signature to meet our guidelines".. :wink:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=42858.0
Good luck with your sale....nice work... :thumb:
Thanks for the heads up...
Martin
Don't forget Martin....you can put a "free" ad here.... :wink:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?board=17.0
Good luck.... :thumb:
-
So I have this plan to take an old mahogany dresser, gut it and turn it into a shell which an audio rack is going to fit into. I am fairly decided that I'll be using 80-20 posts to make it adjustable.
I was thinking of cutting up my current stand (seen in my gallery) for the platforms to build the stand out of. I figured I might need one or two more shelves. Then I got an idea. I thought this might be of general interest, so I'll share.
What about using soapstone for the shelves? Its supposedly machinable, just like wood. I think I am going to explore this option.
I still have an idea to make a plinth for my Teres out of soapstone and maybe even try to make a platter out of it.
-
Speed Rail is another option for framing out a DIY rack / shelving system.
see the details I provided in post #9 here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=70796.msg687750#msg687750
I still prefer 80-20 for the adjustable shelves and overall better looks.
-
Mine wasn't fast or easy, but now that it's done, I'm glad I spent the extra time. I built mine from 6/4 oak and sacrificed adjustability for a more finished look.
The shelves are separated with 1-1/2" black texture-painted PVC tubing. The shelves are isolated through the use of large 1-1/2" one-hole rubber laboratory stoppers. The stopper size was selected so when they were pushed into the tubing as far as they would go, 1/8" was still exposed and trimmed with a 1/8" thick O-ring.
Threaded rod goes through the tubing and stoppers and is fastened on the underside of the bottom shelf with washers and nuts in countersunk holes, and threaded into outside/inside threaded inserts on the underside of the top shelf, so that no hardware is visible.
I used casters as feet, as I am somewhat routinely moving it for changing connections or dusting.
Steve
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=70870)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23322)
-
Nicely done! :thumb:
Clean look and ingeneous use of lab stoppers!
I think I follow all construction techniques but for one.
I'm a bit confused on how the the top shelf is attached to the threaded rods.
I doesn't appear to be drilled through.
-
Threaded inserts for wood were used. They have an outside thread which threads into the pilot hole drilled into the underside of the top shelf (not drilled all the way through).
Steve
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23323)
-
Ahhh....I see.....I think.
so you screwed the threaded rod into the threaded hole I see in those?
or did you attach a coupler onto the outside threads of those.....and then the rod into the threaded coupler?
-
The threaded inserts are screwed into the underside of the top wood shelf until they are flush. Then the threaded rod is screwed into the internal thread. As I had 8 rods to hold the shelves together, I used 3/8" rod as opposed to bigger and beefier rod, but the end result is very solid without any flex or movement.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23324)
I could not locate them in hard stainless, although I would think they make them. They have a slot meant to install them with a large slotted screw driver, or (preferably) with a special threaded T-handle tool. But if you are threading into hardwood and want the threads to completely cut into the wood, you will tear the soft brass apart with a screwdriver. I didn't have the tool, so I used a hex bolt with two nuts as my insertion tool. Then I was able to use a socket with a larger 8" T-handle drive for more torque and greater two-hand control.
Steve
-
So I have this plan to take an old mahogany dresser, gut it and turn it into a shell which an audio rack is going to fit into. I am fairly decided that I'll be using 80-20 posts to make it adjustable.
I was thinking of cutting up my current stand (seen in my gallery) for the platforms to build the stand out of. I figured I might need one or two more shelves. Then I got an idea. I thought this might be of general interest, so I'll share.
What about using soapstone for the shelves? Its supposedly machinable, just like wood. I think I am going to explore this option.
I still have an idea to make a plinth for my Teres out of soapstone and maybe even try to make a platter out of it.
Well I have moved forward on this plan. I gutted the dresser, bought the 80-20 and cut to length. I priced out soapstone, but it is pretty expensive, likely around $500-600 for the uncut soapstone instead of $150-200 for the maple block from a place like perfect plank. So I think I am scrapping the idea of soapstone for shelves. Plus the Home Depot guy said it is really eaasy to crack. Don't know how much he knows but the idea made me pause.
http://www.soapstones.com/store/buy_soapstone_slabs.html
vs.
http://www.perfectplank.com/maple_butcher_block_tops.html
Another idea I was concerned about is it would be easier to fasten the wood shelves to the mounts then the soapstone and not crack the soapstone.
I'll try to take some pictures, but its already too late to see the before picture of the dresser.
I have the day off, so I am spending it woodworking in the basement.
P.S. my version of IE makes posting on this forum very challenging. Firefox works fine.
-
Josh...
I looked into that Perfect Plank stuff for my project. The product price is excellent.....cheapest I could find online. But the heavy weight makes shipping from west to east coast very expensive.
Two words: Craigs List.
Just keep searching on butcher block. That's how I built mine. I bought tables exactly like this, cut them down, sanded and refinished them:
http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/fuo/1455178904.html
Like me you live in Metro NYC area so they pop up fairly frequently, and usually at really good prices.
The three tables I bought on CL cost me an average of $50 per table, and they yielded my double wide, 4 shelf rack (top and bottom shelf came from over very large piece of BB).
I am very happy with the outcome, and it was really cheap.
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Thanks, that is a good idea.
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When I built my plinth out of Corian I fouond a Kitchen countertop guy that had extra sink cutouts laying around. He bonded 2 together to make a 1" plinth and cut it to size for me. Not expensive at all.
Just something to think about.
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I am very pleased with the quality of the maple butcher block I purchased at Lumber Liquidators. My only complaint was it was not quite dry yet and needed to be used before it warped. They also have cherry butcher block. They have many stores in many states including in the NY/NJ area. I believe shipping is still free to the store. Lots of fun muscling around an 8' slab of BB.
There is a store locator function on the home page:
http://www.lumberliquidators.com/home.jsp?OVRAW=lumber%20liquidators&OVKEY=lumber%20liquidators&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=32950810522&OVKWID=69184198022
Link to butcher block:
http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/gsa_search_command.cmd?index=0&maxResults=100&keyword=butcher block&resultsClass=specialty&allResults=false&sortByColumnName=DISPLAY_PRICE&sortOrder=1
OK, I give up. I can't get the second link to post properly. Guess you will have to copy/paste.
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There was an email blast that came out in October searching for someone to make a rack for a SMAC member like one of these:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html
I volunteered to take that on and built these for the audiophile requesting them. Just under $200 in materials: 5 threaded rods of 5/8-11, nuts, washers, stain, poly, brushes, and one sheet of Oak plywood cut just right allowed me to mitre all the edges and make them look 1.5" thick. So an economical set of racks. The lower unit gets a 22" tall Reel to reel on top.
It was a fun little project. Delivery is Saturday. With a smile.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23818)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23819)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23820)
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I have been working on this design for awhile, but haven't had time to finish it. Most of the design is driven from things I don't like about my present rack. Number one for me is accessibility, the other is to hide all the wires and third, be strong as hell. Looking cool would also be a nice plus.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23836)
Wayner
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Hey Wayner, those columns could be cable channels. While only on the front edges, that concept could be used to hide the cables as well if it is incorporated along the back. First thing I thougt of was making the front columns out of 3/4 stock into a "U".
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I was thinking of some kind of Iboco style wire raceway in the back, one for power, the other for signal. Everything in the back. The large slots in the back for access to jacks and whatever, open sides for cleaning and a more isolated top shelf for my TT, but aint figured that out. The thing has to be shipped apart just for the sake of shipping cost (as if I'm gonna build them), but be easy to put together.
Wayner :D
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Nice work Pete.... :beer:
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Hello folks
Try using granite slabs, go down to any kitchen and bath retailer that deals in granite and ask for a disposable slab. They will probably have one and wont charge. Take it home and just place it on your old rack. It will sound better. At this point you can decide if a nicely polished and sized granitite platform is worth considering. they come in 1.5 and 2 in slabs... great for audio.
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There was an email blast that came out in October searching for someone to make a rack for a SMAC member like one of these:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html (http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html)
I volunteered to take that on and built these for the audiophile requesting them. Just under $200 in materials: 5 threaded rods of 5/8-11, nuts, washers, stain, poly, brushes, and one sheet of Oak plywood cut just right allowed me to mitre all the edges and make them look 1.5" thick. So an economical set of racks. The lower unit gets a 22" tall Reel to reel on top.
It was a fun little project. Delivery is Saturday. With a smile.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23818)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23819)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=23820)
I don't see much in the way of vibration control or shelf isolation in a rack like this. Have you considered using some type of a rubber grommet/washer on both sides of metal washers bordering the shelves? It would seem any type of vibration obsorbing material could work, Herbie's Big Fat Black Dots were the 1st to come to my mind. Just a thought,,,
Cheers,
Robin
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So I fabricated an 80/20 stand over the weekend. I used butcher blocks from lumber liquidators. The price was right and the shipping very reasonable since they are near me. The only nitpick is the drip ring, but I faced it down so it is hidden.
I assembled the rack, well actually only half since I ran out of threaded inserts. The results are quite sturdy suprisingly. However, I think I overbuilt it some.
Here is the fastening method I used.
I used the 4 hole corner brackets Part #40-4301
(http://i4.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/1d/a6/6c95_35.JPG)
These bolts:
15 Series Black Zinc Economy T- Nut, with 5/16-18 Offset Part # 3278.
15 Series Black Zinc FBHSCS 5/16-18 x 11/16" Part # 3330.
(http://i21.ebayimg.com/08/i/001/26/68/945b_35.JPG)
And threaded inserts from McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3237/=4n6ate
HI-Strength Stl Knife-Thread Insert for Wood Hex Drive, 5/16"-18 Internal Thread, 45/64" Length
Part # 90192A127
The shelves have 8 threaded inserts put in the bottom and the corner brackets then bolt to the shelves using the same bolts as to the 80/20 extrusion. This way the shelves are removeable in the future.
Tip: the threaded inserts have a tendency to split out the top of the wood near the hole. I figure out how to lessen this about half way through the shelves. I used a deburring bit (has a conical point with one cutter) to chamfer the hole a bit. This lessened the cracking a great deal.
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What is a "drip ring"? :scratch:
Surprised at it's sturdiness? Why?
This 80-20 stuff is used in many heavy duty applications. My brother is an engineer and he built an entire workshop and light manufacturing plant from it.
I attached my butcher block shelves to 80-20 uprights with corner brackets. I screwed the brackets right into the BB shelf underside with lag screws.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=14697)
Had I thought of threaded inserts I probably would have used them.
Be sure to post some pics when you get the chance Josh. I'm sure it will turn out great!
~John
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What I mean by sturdiness, is that if you push it laterally it doesn't budge. Its not a "flexy rack". With two bolts per point of connection, it is pretty darn stable.
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What I mean by sturdiness, is that if you push it laterally it doesn't budge. Its not a "flexy rack". With two bolts per point of connection, it is pretty darn stable.
This is because you are using horizontal pieces of 80-20 to tie it all together...I assume.
I don't use any cross members on mine. The rack is solid and stable (ie will not topple over) but not 100% rigid. That is, there is some slight movement when nudged laterally d/t the lack of cross pieces. I'm no engineer, but I assume this is the reason.
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What I mean by sturdiness, is that if you push it laterally it doesn't budge. Its not a "flexy rack". With two bolts per point of connection, it is pretty darn stable.
This is because you are using horizontal pieces of 80-20 to tie it all together...I assume.
No I didn't, that is why I was surprised at its lateral sturdiness. I only have uprights on the four corners.
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Oh....
In your photo above you show 2 pieces of 80-20 attached at 90 degrees, so I just assumed about the 80-20 cross pieces.
So you used 4-hole corner bracket to attach BB to 80-20 upright?
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Oh....
In your photo above you show 2 pieces of 80-20 attached at 90 degrees, so I just assumed about the 80-20 cross pieces.
So you used 4-hole corner bracket to attach BB to 80-20 upright?
Yeah, that is the ticket.
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ahhhh...interesting.
Sounds like it gives more rigidity than my single point attachments.
Makes sense, actually. Probably makes it less prone to the "pivoting effect" that single point attachments are susceptible to when lateral force is applied. I think that is what is happening with my rack.
Time to tweak the rack!
:lol:
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Josh, where did you get those extrusions?
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80/20 on ebay. I bought 8' lengths and cut them to length. It was the most convenient choice as well as most cost effective. I bought a non-ferrous blade (60 teet iirc) for my miter saw. Cuts like butter. You really can't tell my cut from the factory's.
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Josh, where did you get those extrusions?
Pete,
80/20 is right on US30 in Columbia City IN area. Many of the ebay sales come from their overstock and cutoffs.
Tom
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Okay. I see. My Adona uprights are 2.25" square and these are much smaller. I've added 3" thick Maple shelves all around and I could use another 6 inches of height.
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I used the 40 series 80/20 stuff. 40 series is 40mm ~= 1.6" square.
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I also used the 40 series stuff.
Visually, it looks pretty balanced to me given the overall rack dimensions and thickness of the butcher block shelving.
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=24098)
As promised, the photo. Shelves aren't finished yet but since they bolt on/off, I can take them off to finish them. This is half of the shelf, as this will be a double-wide. I have 8 shelves in all.
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Double wide?
You gonna put two single wide racks (like photo) alongside each other?
Or you just gonna use one pair of uprights as common to both sets of shelves?
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Double wide?
You gonna put two single wide racks (like photo) alongside each other?
Or you just gonna use one pair of uprights as common to both sets of shelves?
The later. Common uprights in the middle. I figured it would be studier that way. I'll take some photos of the mounting scheme so others can see what I did. Now that I have successfully dyed my speakers, I am thinking of dying the shelves black (have the transtint black) and then shellacing them.
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Josh, I may steal your design for my rack project I bought the lumber for months ago. Thanks! :green:
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Feel free. Steal away. It isn't my idea, I borrowed from many here and adapted to suit my own ideas.
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BTW, 3" thick maple cutting boards (really only have slots on each end to pick them up) can be had for about $66 each here:
http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Maple-Edge-Grain-20x15-inch-Cutting-Board/3303890/product.html
I paid $1 for shipping two of them on 2 separate orders. I have 4 of these, 2 for amp stands and 2 for the bottom shelves. I ordered 4 blank maple shelves from a Northern Michigan supplier for $100 each plus tax last year.
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Double wide?
You gonna put two single wide racks (like photo) alongside each other?
Or you just gonna use one pair of uprights as common to both sets of shelves?
The later. Common uprights in the middle. I figured it would be studier that way. ......
Cheaper too.....two less uprights needed.
I remember that 80-20 stuff being about 50 cents per inch, so you probably saved about 50 bux with shipping (36 inch height assumed).
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If it happens that DIY is not the goal itself but just a means to an end, I have an alternate suggestion.
In our area there is a used office furniture store. I bought a credenza from them that is very heavy and solid, probably more than 200 lbs. which measures 6 feet wide, 29 inches tall, and 20 inches deep. It is nicely finished furniture and, in addition to the top surface, has two lower shelves on each side. I just hole-sawed a couple of holes in the back on each side for cables and away I went. $200.00 total.
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An updated pic. Still have to finish the shelves. I bought black crystalac for the shelves. Crystalac is used on guitars and is a very durable finish so it should be good for shelves.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=25027)
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I am going to be using 8020 10 series to make a rack/stand for the TV/equipment (about 64" long, 20" tall and 19" deep). One thing I was considering was using granite tile for the shelving - the tile comes in max size of 24" x 24" (I have access to the tools to cut and polish the edges), and the tile is 1/2" thick. Shelves will be~ 21" wide x 19 " deep and supported on three sides by a bar of the 1" square 8020 tubing vs drilling and adding spikes to each tile. Any downsides to using this material for the shelving before I order it?
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I would be worried that 19" might be too much of a loaded span for only 1/2" thick granite.
With granite kitchen countertops, 3 cm (~1-1/8") granite spans no more than 24". But when they use 2 cm (~3/4") granite, it is always backed with 1/2" - 3/4" plywood.
Steve
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Ouch - I guess that's why I asked first. I think I'll pick up a tile and set it on supports and put a nice load on it (about 50 lbs) and see what happens before shelling out for the whole set. Any problems with viabration using granite that thin? The reason I ask was I saw a flexi rack made with granite shelves at oregon dv http://www.oregondv.com/Granitestainless.htm (http://www.oregondv.com/Granitestainless.htm) and was wondering about it's properties in a rack.
I guess another option is to add a base of mdf to each tile like the shelves Adona makes.
*Edited for another option...
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Wood tends to absorb and dissipate vibration and resonance, where hard materials like glass and granite tend to transmit them.
I think it is less of an issue if there is some kind of isolation method or device between the shelf and it's supports.
Steve
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The extruded aluminum posts look very much like the 80/20 stuff I used.
Great material to work with. Very strong and always square, straight and true.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=16244)
Very Cool!
Where can I source the extruded aluminum, T-bolts, and end caps to build a similar rack?
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try 80/20 on ebay or www.8020inc.com
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Good thread, very helpfull...
So, I was thinking of Frankenstein-ing my current Salamander Synergy single, tall, rack and turning it into a rack like Toobluvr's... using the t-slot uprights that the Synergy system uses, cutting them down and getting butcher block for a double wide, low profile rack instead.
But I am trying to tell if these are the same t - slot bars as the 1010 on 80/20.com so I could use their fittings and whatnot. I am trying to do this at the moment without having to take the top shelf off to see the interior pattern of the upright...
Anyone have info on if these are the same product?
Thanks
Jason
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31663)
After reading thru this thread I decided to make my own rack using the 8020 extrusions.It turned out very well. JoshK was right about the sturdiness of just the 4 uprights and the shelves with double hole brackets.I used the 15 series extrusions and the 20x15 butcher blocks from overstock.com that BigRedMachine recommended above.The rack is 36" tall with the bottom shelf spaced at 18" for tube cooling.I need to install some footers(being made from 1.5" brass at a local machine shop) and finish the shelves to match my Tyler Acoustics 7U speakers.So far I have less than $300.00 invested.You would be hard pressed to buy a premade rack of this quality for that price.DIY is fun and saves lots of dough!! Thanks for the all the info guys. :D
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Well done decal .... :beer:
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Hi here is what my friend Jocelyn built for me, it was made to measure for my needs, he builds the size you need usualy with wood shelves, mine was special i wanted granite, this rack is small but weighs over 300 pounds, 2x3 steel frame with wood covered legs the complete frame is filled with silice, you can see more of his work on my Flickr galery. http://www.flickr.com/photos/mracoustat/
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/ChordDuo10-1.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/ChordDuo03.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Musiciens01.jpg)
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Wow! These racks are great. I am just starting to build a new rack for the cave, so I love all the great looks. Thanks for the link Mr. Acouststat.
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Wow, nice few racks added to this thread! I do like my 80/20 rack. I think that is pretty easy for the average diy'er to do.
That other rack from granite and steel is pretty nice, but not easily tackle'able for the average diy'er.
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Why not Josh, it's a 2x3 steel frame that was painted and two slabs of 32mm granite, expensive yes but very easy to build.
PS: here are a few pictures of a model he built for Krell's KRS-100 mono blocks & three bigger one's in different colors.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Jocelyn022.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Jocelyn023.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Jocelyn024.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Jocelyn027.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Jocelyn028.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Jocelyn029.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz61/MrAcoustat/Jocelyn034.jpg)
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After perusing this great thread for the past couple of days I've decided to make a new rack using some 8020 from ebay. Lo and behold I find that they are having a blow-out sale on some custom cut pieces that will work perfectly for what I plan. 1515 X 39.625" for a mere $8.92 per piece! That's a pretty great deal. Here's the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330776683290?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
And this guy is selling corresponding anchor fasteners for pretty cheap:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321023723581?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
I was able to get my entire frame (8 spaces, 39.625" X 50" X 20") for $230 INCLUDING SHIPPING!!!
I originally planned on using butcher block like others in this thread but that would end up costing several hundred bucks. I think I'm going to go with the thick high quality birch plywood instead. Possibly veneer the laminate edging, possibly not. Maybe I'll get some countertop material from Ikea. Decisions, decisions. I'll post some pics once done.
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sounds like you have a good plan! do it!
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Thought I'd share my results building one of these 80/20 racks.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img829/8796/img3501o.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img838/4535/img3503re.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img202/8317/img3502s.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img32/2905/img3505yz.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img42/7510/img3507vx.jpg)
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Very cool looking racks, woodsyi!!
The extruded aluminum posts look very much like the 80/20 stuff I used.
Great material to work with. Very strong and always square, straight and true. :thumb:
It took me a while to find all the used butcher block tables, but I did the whole project for about $300.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=16244)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=16245)
Hello does your rack sturdy , mine when I touch the rack move around not sturdy at all. I screw every butcher but it is not sturdy, what do you recommend?
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I have a DeltaCad 3-view orthographic drawing for this red oak Arts & Crafts style component cabinet. The joinery is all mortise & tenon (some are thru-tenons). There is a good size drawer and the center shelf is height adjustable and slatted for cooling. The back is open and the sides have mortised-in slats with a keyhole pattern center slat. It requires some skill and patience to build but it's a nice, rock solid piece of audio furniture.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174176)
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174177)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174178)
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Half-dado on the shelves and rear brace. Ends of shelves are even with the outside of the legs. Top is full width. Glued, screwed, and tattooed (pegged). This rack is heavy and SOLID. Sounds better than the expensive commercial rack it replaced. Wish I could say I built it but I hired a local woodworker. Maple is mean to work with. Legs are solid maple, full 1.75" x 3.75". Rear brace is smaller.
Butcher block came from Lumber Liquidators but I have since found another source for a variety of BB. I have not used them but they are relatively local and I might need another rack for a second system. Shipping is a killer on heavy BB.
http://www.perfectplank.com/
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174179)
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I have a DeltaCad 3-view orthographic drawing for this red oak Arts & Crafts style component cabinet. The joinery is all mortise & tenon (some are thru-tenons). There is a good size drawer and the center shelf is height adjustable and slatted for cooling. The back is open and the sides have mortised-in slats with a keyhole pattern center slat. It requires some skill and patience to build but it's a nice, rock solid piece of audio furniture.
Nice looking rack. Will you share the Cad drawing?
Best,
Lester
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Nice looking rack. Will you share the Cad drawing?
Best,
Lester
Sure. PM me your email address.
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I've used a "Cheapo" IKEA LACK coffee table style rack for about 15 years now. Works fine for me, seems to sound alright. I haven't compared it to other isolation platforms but compared to other racks it dos a very nice job, gets out of the way of the music. No problems with things like turntable isolation.
Instead of installing spikes in the top shelf unit(s) I use the cut-down IKEA LACK legs and blu-tac. Very sturdy, and I don't detect vibrations coming up from the floor. I have the means to measure such things now (I have a clone of the Stereophile "plastic tape accelerometer" I constructed last year) so maybe I'll explore the whole rack thing further, but admittedly it's on the back burner as I have a lot of unfinished projects on the table right now.
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Hello does your rack sturdy , mine when I touch the rack move around not sturdy at all. I screw every butcher but it is not sturdy, what do you recommend?
There is a very slight side-to-side sway to it. But I need to push it very hard, and it's certainly not a problem. The combined weight of all the BB and gear make it very heavy and sturdy. My buddy has an expensive rack from a known audio mfr (Zoethecus) and it has much greater sway and instability to it.
I've had 5 turntables and 8 different arms on it, and they all track perfectly. No distortion, no skipping. Even when I jump up and down on my suspended wood floors right in front of it.
I suppose a diagonal cross brace on the rear would eliminate sway.
As would cross braces under the shelves a la Steve Blinn Designs and Adona (and others):
https://www.steveblinndesigns.com/
http://www.adonacorporation.com/products.html
I prefer the more open look of mine, so I chose not to use them.
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Even when I jump up and down on my suspended wood floors right in front of it.
Can I see that? :roll:
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I am getting ready to build one of these too. I will be using the t channel I used from my projection screen...it has 2 grooves on 2 sides, and 1 on the other 2 sides. I will be making 3 racks that will share one side with the next rack, so I will only need 7 uprights for a 3 point upright setup. I will be using Mesquite most likely that is 1 1/2" thick. I hope to have it done in the next couple of weeks (still need to get the wood, and corner support pieces).
I am also contemplating having a open area in the center of each shelf for cooling.
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Curious as to why just seven 80-20 uprights would suffice for three side-by-side attached racks.
Don't you need a total of 8 = 4 across the front and 4 across the back?
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I am doing a 3 point setup...one support on the front sides, and another centered on the back. This will be for the left rack and right only...the center rack will use one support from each side, and have o e for the rear too.
So 4 across the front, and 3 across the rear...basically a triangle for the supports.
Does this make sense?
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I am doing a 3 point setup...one support on the front sides, and another centered on the back. This will be for the left rack and right only...the center rack will use one support from each side, and have o e for the rear too.
Does this make sense?
Gotcha......I think.... :lol:
across the front you will use a total of 4 uprights, one on the corner of each shelf. The 2 center uprights will be shared by the middle shelf, and the two outside shelves.
across the back you will have one upright in the center of each shelf, for a total of 3.
correct?
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Yup. I had a rack made years ago that was welded that was like this and i liked it. I will be looking at having angle brackets that are 2 slot wide, and at least 4 screws per end of the bracket. I might use a different bracket for each shelf so i can spike the shelves to the brackets. Trying to keep the costs down, and i know the brackets are going to cost the most.
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Sounds nice.....
Just keep in mind that with center uprights in the rear, sometimes they interfere with your cables and connections. Especially if the cable is stiff. I once had a rack with center uprights and it drove me crazy in this regard. Ended up selling it.
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Gotcha..
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=175748)
How about one like this?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=175749)
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Looks great! My only concern would be that the bottom is strong enough at the angle to support the weight. Would it be possible to support it from the bottom of the large bottom plate with a welded rod protruding out that the uprights could slide over, or is there a cross bar that is bolting it to the bottom plate?
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=175766)
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I have walked up and down on this rack and I weigh 240lbs. I'd say that's plenty strong. This is a display rack that I designed to use at audio shows across the country. Some of the best equipment that you can get have been on these racks. It's a solid design.
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=175766)
Very cool! Nice clock too... :thumb:
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Years ago, at the suggestion of a fellow ACer (sorry can't recall who) I bought two 18" x 20" x 20" Ikea nightstands (no longer available). It was heavily built with a thinner adjustable center shelf and casters. I mounted the caster spindles to use as spikes but left the wheels off. Still use the second one as a side table at my listening chair (in my dedicated listening room/office) but over the years used it's center shelf in the audio rack as needed. It fit everything very nicely that I've owned for the past 10 years (but I'm more of a minimalist than most here).
What attracted me was the small price and size. Years before I'd observed that the soundstage is interrupted by physical objects, so I wanted to keep the gear low and centered to minimize length of cable runs. So a couple of years ago after reducing my system some more (tiny Temple Audio mono-blocks and a DSPeaker DAC/preamp/DSP) finally dug out a piece of leftover shelving (12" x 3/4" x 43"), stained it (amateurishly), and inserted four spikes. Having a dedicated room (basement on carpet/pad over concrete slab) I located the shelf (a poor man's amp stand) roughly 4 feet out from the front wall which allows for 7 foot speaker cables.
Now I have a wide open soundstage (the 8ft x 13ft x 10ft front end of my room contains only six GIK 244 panels, audio system, ottoman) and the gear is close enough to my near-field listening chair to allow a 10 foot USB cable to run from my laptop to the DSPeaker. Note that I've never heard a improvement in sound quality from any tweak (beyond turntable support on a soft wooden floor), but the ultimate rack would be in the next, acoustically isolated, room.