September 2019 I met Klaus in Lafayette, IN and picked up my Liquids. Klaus mentioned that there may be upgrades someday and recently found out that there is indeed one.
I've very much enjoyed these as is. I run Roon into a Twisted Pear ESS Sabre PRO 9038 DAC that I've built. That feeds an Odyssey Audio Kismet semi-integrated amp. This is an external power supplied Candela/Kismet amp for pre and one mono Kismet power amp with a Kismet Khartago for the other side. Instead of using the Candela for a pre I use a Rogue Audio 99 Magnum pre. All cables are Groneberg except for the speaker cables (Furez).
The upgrade involves new longer bottom port tubes, a new massive inductor and removal of the lowest baffle within the cabinet.
The inductors are massive affairs weighing in at just under 5lbs each and DCR of .07 ohms. Woof!! These require removal of the original inductor (a very nice copper foil) from the circuit board but these mount directly on the base board as they would crush the circuit board.
Bottom baffle removal was fairly simple, I scraped off the foam carefully for reuse and removed the baffle. I put in 1/2 pound of wool batting around the tube. Reattached the foam to the outsides and prepped the speaker wires.
While in there I decided to go Mundorf for everything (except one coil in the filter circuit). I moved two of the resistors under the circuit board as the Mundorf's are a bit longer than the originals and room became "interesting" on the top of the board.
I did make a mistake... the third band on the resistors are shiney... and since two of them were gold bands I didn't look closely at the third and made a decimal point mistake as that band was silver. That mistake was immediately noticeable on speaker #1 (I can only work on 1 of these monsters at a time in limited space) as resistance was 10x what it should have been. Treble was very attenuated!! I was thoroughly confused until I noticed the silver band. Resistors were ordered with the correct values and the "oops" was corrected.
Klaus keeps cables just long enough to reach from speaker to board and I had to run wire from the board over to the new inductor. I put in some short (3") extenders and used those to attach the speaker cables. Slightly longer cables extensions were used to get to the inductor. I used some screw anchors cut to length as standoffs for the crossover board.
Breaking in now but I really like the "new" sound. I think the bass is a bit more extended, less boomy and the new capacitor seems to have improved the upper registers a bit. However, components take time to break in so I'll wait on final judgement.
