[drphoto]

I just ordered a Fluke 101, the only model made in China. Only $43. I know good enough for testing continuity, like to make sure my speaker cable build is correct, but somewhere down the road I want to build the a Dynaco clone kit from Tubes4Hifi. It can test capacitance, but can't do current. Is that important. I've seen that some recommend a Bremen that is about $150. Worth it?  The USA made Flukes are crazy money. Thanks

[richidoo]

The need to measure current is rare in this hobby, unless you are electronics designer or repairman.
A well-designed tube amp kit will make use of a bias resistor which allows you to set bias current by voltage. Your Fluke is good enough until you need more, then upgrade!

My multimeter is made by Extech (chinese) model 22-816 from about 15 years ago, now discontinued. It is accurate and tough, and also measures temperature with included thermocouple. The current Extech model EX410A seems to be roughly equivalent for $53 on amzn. 

Good luck with your amp project!! 

[drphoto]

Rich.....appreciate the response. Glad to hear it is 'good enough'.

[Speedskater]

While the Fluke 101 has low voltage AC ranges, its frequency response is very limited.

[drphoto]

I decided to return this and order the extech as rich mentioned, as it's on $10 more and more capable. Thanks guys. This DIY stuff is fun. When I go for an 'end game' system, prolly build X-oticas. Those ones I saw w/ the copper painted baffles look fantastic too.

[drphoto]

I found an EX410A on the 'bay, brand new for $40 which I bought. Doesn't appear to measure capacitance and not true RMS (though that was in ad) Does any of this matter for testing an amp build? Sorry for stupid questions. New to this. I do know how to make clean solder joints but that's about limit of my skill set.

As an aside. I always loved this site. Everyone is so friendly and helpful. I met several in person a meetups at Rob's (Marbles) and everyone was great. I walked away from the hobby for 10 years, but back now and still, same great forum. So thanks to all. 

Oh....work as been a killer. So progress on the Maggie LRS crossover build/install has been going slowly.

[FullRangeMan]

True RMS are desirable for hospital grade equip engineers, for us audiophiles a regular inexpensive meter will do the job IMO.

[Speedskater]

True RMS is for frequency response measurements.
Not needed for level setting.
Didn't need True RMS at Picker X-ray R&D.

[CurtisIIX]

For amp building, you are mostly going to be checking DC voltages and continuity, so what you have is fine. Bias currents are typically measured through a sense resistor, and kit may only be listing the voltages at those test points anyway.

If you are using it to debug or test the output of an amplifier (e.g. checking the gain of the amplifier), you will be testing an AC signal. This is possible with a multimeter, but you just need to make sure your test signal is a low frequency sine wave, like 60 Hz.

[Speedskater]

You can check the frequency response of a budget Digital Multi-Meter.
Using a test tone file, the analog output of a CD/DVD player or DAC is more than accurate enough, for most purposes.
(no, I don't have any good links to test tone files)

[FullRangeMan]

There is various test tone online.
This is very complete:
https://onlinetonegenerator.com/