V1 - build (photos on page 7)

SteveRB · « **on:** 2 Sep 2012, 09:34 pm »

Hello, this is my first project in the GR Research thread.

I will be picking up my V1 kit in a couple weeks and documenting my build on this thread -- hoping for a little help and inspiration along the way. I've been pouring over the different build info on all the V Series (Super V, V1, V2) threads throughout Audiocircle. I am very excited to get going and have been working on plans and design direction of the speakers. Due to several factors at home, I have to stray from the set plans (Super V wings and grill configuration). I think I have settled on a nice looking concept that sticks very close to functional needs of the design, but borrows a little style from golden age Dynacos...

The design uses two separate grills. The cloth will be oatmeal or light grey. The top grill is thin and sits proud of the front baffle, while the lower grill is inset in the side panels. The top one will be removed for listening sessions when my young daughter is not present; she's not interested in poking at my speakers but accidents can happen.

The skeleton is to be all 3/4" MDF painted with an industrial, textured black paint. The side panels will be 3/4" teak ply. With the grills fully open, the teak side panels are visible. Also the side panels are at least flush with the front baffle. They may have a radius added later.

PLANS (so far):

Thanks for looking -- I'm open to suggestions along the way with thoughts to improve the performance, looks, and construction. As I mentioned, I won't be picking up the kit for 2 weeks, and probably won't be able to start cutting any wood for 3 weeks. So I have plenty of time to tweak.

Since the design strays a bit from the standard V1, I've been referring to them as V!.

jtwrace · « **Reply #1 on:** 2 Sep 2012, 10:05 pm »

I like it. Reminds me of some old Maggies with those front grills.

PDR · « **Reply #2 on:** 2 Sep 2012, 10:30 pm »

Cool.......I strayed on my V-1 build as well....

The one thing I would of done differently is made my side panels 1-1/2" wide, others did this after my build, but since I was one of the first, I didnt have many to compare to at the time.

Good luck with your build, gonna look fantastic!

Perry

Danny Richie · « **Reply #3 on:** 2 Sep 2012, 10:41 pm »

You definitely will need to make the side panels thicker.

We use 1.25" thick solid MDF on the Super-V lined with No Rez and it is barely enough.

SteveRB · « **Reply #4 on:** 2 Sep 2012, 10:48 pm »

yes, i followed other threads where you mentioned that the 1.25" side panels were used to stop the resonance (as well as No Res). I have read several posts where high quality ply wood is used because it is much stiffer than MDF; therefore, you can use thinner panels. However, the MDF does have more mass...

I would still like to use the 3/4" ply. I wonder, what if I build the sub box with MDF all around the inside (like around the rear of the woofer)? The chamber surrounding the woofers will then be 1.25"-1.50" thick made from the two materials. I planned to glue the side panels fully to the skeleton.

ebag4 · « **Reply #5 on:** 3 Sep 2012, 12:46 am »

You are going to love your V-1s, I know I do. My sides are 1", if I had to do it again I would have gone a bit thicker although I have not really experienced any issues with the 1".

Good luck with the build!

Best,
Ed

SteveRB · « **Reply #6 on:** 3 Sep 2012, 01:01 am »

Quote from: ebag4 on 3 Sep 2012, 12:46 am

You are going to love your V-1s...

Thanks. I am very eager.

Is there any issue with thinner 3/4" ply at the top, around the coaxe driver; is it fully related to the performance of the servo woofers?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #7 on:** 3 Sep 2012, 01:39 am »

If I had to choose between 3/4" Ply and 3/4" MDF of the sides, I would go with the MDF. It is denser and less resonant.

And the thickness needed is on either side of the servo subs. They put a lot of pressure on those sides. The more solid those sides are the better the bass will sound.

Keep in mind too that the sides are all that complete the box on the front sides of each woofer. So 3/4" thick un-braced panels would do a lot of flexing.

SteveRB · « **Reply #8 on:** 3 Sep 2012, 01:44 am »

Got it.

SteveRB · « **Reply #9 on:** 16 Sep 2012, 04:07 pm »

Picked the kit up yesterday -- wow. These drivers are heavy duty and all components are high quality.

Danny did an excellent job packing them: triple boxed across the board.

Next steps: address the plans and put together a cut list for the skeleton parts.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #10 on:** 16 Sep 2012, 04:27 pm »

Looking forward to watching your progress during the build

-jay

SteveRB · « **Reply #11 on:** 16 Sep 2012, 05:21 pm »

Updated plans with simpler construction and thicker side panels. I figure I can use two sheets of 5/8" veneered one side MDF laminated on the non veneered side for a total thickness of 1.25" on the side panels. The two layers will have added stiffness compared to a layer of MDF.

If no one sees any issues. I'll start cutting and assembling this week.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #12 on:** 16 Sep 2012, 05:29 pm »

That'll work.

PDR · « **Reply #13 on:** 17 Sep 2012, 01:05 am »

Very nice!

I am also looking forward to your build.

Where are you going to place the cross over?.....out board?

Have fun.

Jonathon Janusz · « **Reply #14 on:** 17 Sep 2012, 04:14 am »

Danny, does the squared off baffle Steve has drawn for the coax change anything in performance compared to the curved baffle on the reference drawings? I remember you mentioning that keeping that baffle small is a good thing; just wondering if the shape is critical as well?

Steve, I like the look in the drawings - simple, clean, understated. The wild builds are cool, sure, but I can appreciate the minimalist vibe. Best of luck with the build!

Danny Richie · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 Sep 2012, 01:39 pm »

Quote from: Jonathon Janusz on 17 Sep 2012, 04:14 am

Danny, does the squared off baffle Steve has drawn for the coax change anything in performance compared to the curved baffle on the reference drawings? I remember you mentioning that keeping that baffle small is a good thing; just wondering if the shape is critical as well?

Steve, I like the look in the drawings - simple, clean, understated. The wild builds are cool, sure, but I can appreciate the minimalist vibe. Best of luck with the build!

It does add some surface reflections, but not much.

SteveRB · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 Sep 2012, 02:02 pm »

Quote from: PDR on 17 Sep 2012, 01:05 am

Where are you going to place the cross over?.....out board?

The xo will likely sit behind the coax. I've seen a couple nice examples where the electronics are done carefully that they look great in the free air. Alternatively, it may require a small box.

I was also toying with the idea of building the xo into the same box with the sub amp. But I will have to defer that to any limitations of the wire length.

SteveRB · « **Reply #17 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 02:07 am »

Life does seem to get away from me these days. To save some time and a little head ache, I called a around to a couple millwork shops and found a very nice owner who did all my cuts on his idle CNC machine. All he needed was a drawing and a little cash. He provided all material and delivered the pieces to my office with a two day turnaround.

I do recommend this option to anyone with limited space and tools. All of the edges are perfect 90° cuts with sharp edges for butt joints, and all radii; counter sinks, and dimensions look perfect.

Tonight I start assembly.

Danny,
Do I need round overs on the back side of all of the baffles for all of the speaker openings: coaxe and servos?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #18 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 02:35 am »

Quote

Danny,
Do I need round overs on the back side of all of the baffles for all of the speaker openings: coaxe and servos?

I have always rounded the back side on all of them, but it is really only necessary on the coaxial drivers.

SteveRB · « **Reply #19 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 02:57 pm »

The machine cut pieces go together very quickly and precisely.

Maybe a little too precisely: the mid woofer fits quite snug. I'm going to have to make sure not too much paint gets in the countersink. It is that snug.