SET amp under $3000

Nuance · « **Reply #20 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 03:32 pm »

It absolutely has to be a SET amp?

woodsyi · « **Reply #21 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 03:36 pm »

Quote from: AliG on 22 Oct 2008, 03:06 pm

The TACT only has one output. So I'll have to find an interconnects that will split into 2 pairs of L/R.

So Woodsyi, are you doing active bi-amping now?

Yes, I am. I am using a Marchand XM126.

bluemike · « **Reply #22 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 04:18 pm »

I would look at the Ultra fi Monaco . Dennis Moore is auctioning one of these off on Audiogon.
If I were looking I would seriously consider this amp

JoshK · « **Reply #23 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 04:42 pm »

Some of my suggestions, based on what is on A'gon right now....

$900 offers good value, could be modded later

K&K offers seriously great designs, maybe he would budge on price to be within your range

Lots of choices in fact. Those were just a couple. I'd like to try out a Free Lunch amp, and that is probably what I'd build.

zybar · « **Reply #24 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 04:49 pm »

Couple of thoughts...

Instead of SET, go with OTL amp from Atma-Sphere. On the right speakers (which I believe these will be), the Atma-Sphere sound is magically! To my ears, it has all the positive attributes one associates with SET, but is more robust at the extremes (especially the bass) and produces a more open and fast sound. A pair of used M-60's would be more than enough power and will keep you under your 3k budget.

If you really have your heart set on going SET, I am playing with a modified (i.e. upgraded) pair of Audio Mirror 45 watt/channel amps that use the 6C33C output tubes. While they are still breaking in, I think they have some excellent potential (although I don't believe they will best the Atma-Sphere amps). Here is their webpage: http://www.audiomirror.com/amps.html

George

t-head · « **Reply #25 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 05:32 pm »

suggestion:

Wright Sound WPA Mono 7s - 300B, 7 watts - $1845/pr made in USA point to point wiring Change stock tubes when you can...

http://www.wright-sound.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=21

biamp woofer

t

AliG · « **Reply #26 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 06:13 pm »

Well... because the TACT DAC/preamp is a solid state, so I need some tubes in the chain to melow out the sound a little.

Quote from: Nuance on 22 Oct 2008, 03:32 pm

It absolutely has to be a SET amp?

AliG · « **Reply #27 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 06:14 pm »

Darned... I remember seeing one pair on Audiogon not too long ago.. but it's sold!

Quote from: zybar on 22 Oct 2008, 04:49 pm

Couple of thoughts...

Instead of SET, go with OTL amp from Atma-Sphere. On the right speakers (which I believe these will be), the Atma-Sphere sound is magically! To my ears, it has all the positive attributes one associates with SET, but is more robust at the extremes (especially the bass) and produces a more open and fast sound. A pair of used M-60's would be more than enough power and will keep you under your 3k budget.

If you really have your heart set on going SET, I am playing with a modified (i.e. upgraded) pair of Audio Mirror 45 watt/channel amps that use the 6C33C output tubes. While they are still breaking in, I think they have some excellent potential (although I don't believe they will best the Atma-Sphere amps). Here is their webpage: http://www.audiomirror.com/amps.html

George

woodsyi · « **Reply #28 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 06:50 pm »

Atma-Sphere OTLs were really nice with horns. I would think they would be good with ribbon tweeter and a small midrange cone. I don't think the 4th order passive filter between the tweeter and the midrange woofer would present a tough load. What's the sensitivity of the mid/high as a unit if you decoupled the bass woofer?

AliG · « **Reply #29 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 07:45 pm »

Err...not sure... I need to ask Jim Salk about this. I think the specs may change a little because this is going to be the first pair of open baffle with ribbon tweeter he builds.

Quote from: woodsyi on 22 Oct 2008, 06:50 pm

Atma-Sphere OTLs were really nice with horns. I would think they would be good with ribbon tweeter and a small midrange cone. I don't think the 4th order passive filter between the tweeter and the midrange woofer would present a tough load. What's the sensitivity of the mid/high as a unit if you decoupled the bass woofer?

JoshK · « **Reply #30 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 07:51 pm »

I'd rather go SET or triode PP then OTL, but that is me.

woodsyi · « **Reply #31 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 08:13 pm »

Quote from: AliG on 22 Oct 2008, 07:45 pm

Err...not sure... I need to ask Jim Salk about this. I think the specs may change a little because this is going to be the first pair of open baffle with ribbon tweeter he builds.

Barry,

Why not go active crossover period? You can ask Mr. Murphy and Mr. Salk to set the parameters for a Behringer DCX2496. What you will spend on active cross over will be more than offset by not needing any fancy caps for passive filters. It may be a good think to have DSP for room interaction, especially for an open baffle. You can even mod the x-over like George did. aa

WGH · « **Reply #32 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 09:03 pm »

Can you live with 6-8 watts? Here is another suggestion:

Since the Hagtech Cornet2 can compete with well known high end phono pre-amps (link) and the SqueezeBox Rebox has an analog tube stage that Jim consulted on (link), maybe one of the Hagerman amps would be worth a try.

The Cymbal is the DIY amp and comes in at well under your budget.

The PA-10 takes it to the next level:
Distortion is exceedingly low, especially given the fact that no feedback is used, thanks to the harmonic cancellation of the output stage, which operates partially in both single-ended parallel and push-pull differential modes. This balance results in SET-like musicality yet with PP control and dynamics. The PA-10 is a no-holds-barred design and pushes the state-of-the-art in vacuum tube amplification.

I have not heard any of the Hagtech amps, but I do use a modded Cornet2 with AVA electronics and with the mods it is phenomenal.

Wayne

JoshK · « **Reply #33 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 09:22 pm »

Good point about Hagerman. Don't forget the PA10. This would be a great little amp, I suspect.

Then you have the SETH. Choices, choices.

Niteshade · « **Reply #34 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 10:34 pm »

AliG: Where did you get that awsome cartoon? I have never seen anything quite like it before.

I can't believe how long it plays.

nicksgem10s · « **Reply #35 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 11:47 pm »

I am using an Almarro A318B with my custom 97 db efficient 2 way floorstanding speakers. I need more bass than my speakers provide so I use a pair of Hawthorme Audio Augies as OB subs to dial in the bass response I want.

I run speaker cables from the speaker output on my Almarro to my Rythmik Audio A370PEQ dedicated subwoofer amp that has been optimized for the Augies.

This allows me to enjoy the benefits of the Almarro while calling on the Rythmik Audio sub amp to take care of the very bottom end frequencies.

This has allowed me to simplify my system from the past systems where I used a modified Behringer and multiple amps and settings.

The Almarro A318B is incredible. It is an integrated amp that has tremendous sound quality. It has guts to drive many speakers and does not have bloated or loose bass.

The midrange and high frequencies are exactly what I have been searching for.

I have decided to add the Augies and sub amp because I have a good sized room and am a bass freak also. I also have custom subs using TC Sounds cost no object drivers added for HT duty.

I heard the prototype or initial version of those speakers at AK Fest. Jim has another winner on his hands.

This is one of very few commercial designs I would consider purchasing if I was in the market. If the new tweeter has allowed for an improvement than I imagine they will be worth the wait.

A similar setup to mine would allow you to have the grunt needed for the bass drivers while enjoying all the benefits of SET for the midrange & high frequencies.

I will look forward to hearing what amps you try and your experience with these fine speakers. Jim is awesome to work with.

-Nick

kenreau · « **Reply #36 on:** 22 Oct 2008, 11:51 pm »

Have you heard an EL34 tube based amp?

I have Cayin 860 monoblocks that put out 38 watts in triode mode, or 70 watts ultralinear. They are push-pull though, not SET.

They can be found preowned within your stated budget limits.

It's almost like going to Baskins & Robbins with the multitude of tube amp flavors. It can be really tough to make a decision without sampling something personally.

hmen · « **Reply #37 on:** 23 Oct 2008, 12:10 am »

Another vote for the Atma-Spheres

planet10 · « **Reply #38 on:** 23 Oct 2008, 01:26 am »

I have suggestions but a question 1st... what does the impedance curve look like on those speakers?

dave

planet10 · « **Reply #39 on:** 23 Oct 2008, 01:29 am »

Quote from: woodsyi on 22 Oct 2008, 08:13 pm

Why not go active crossover period? You can ask Mr. Murphy and Mr. Salk to set the parameters for a Behringer DCX2496.

By the time the DCX is modded sufficiently to be worth listening to about a 3rd of the budget will be gone. The thing does have a really versatile UI thou and can do things no passive XO can.

dave