[Ron]

 Is the cabinet for the N3S larger than the cabinet for the AV-3S? Danny, do you have a drawing for it?

[Jonathon Janusz]

Not Danny, but here's the link to the plans:

http://www.gr-research.com/pdf/Neo3S.pdf

[Ron]

 Thanks Johnathon !!   Greatly appreciate the link to the N3S drawing.

[m-fine]

Ha, me thinks Ron has been bitten by the N3S bug .  I admit it is calling me too and I still have not ordered my N2X kit yet!  I pulled my X-sls's out of the basement for a quick listen before the surgery, and even if I do build a pair of the 3S, those X classics have a sound that is just begging to be upgraded, so I better start with the N2X. 

[Ron]

 Yep! Guess I have been bitten by the N3S bug all right.   Suggest that if you build the Neo 2X first, go with the mills resistors, Sonicap capacitors, and No-Rez damping performance upgrade options. I went with these upgrades on all the Neo 2X's that I have built so far. Well worth the extra cost. I plan to order the N3S parts kits from Danny this coming week but will have to wait until warmer weather to build them. Plan to post pictures and evaluation comments when they are finished.

[Danny Richie]

If I were building a pair of them for myself, I'd go with the floor standing transmission line version.

It will have better low frequency extension, a little better driver control in the low end, and better power handling down low too.

[m-fine]

Yep! Guess I have been bitten by the N3S bug all right.   Suggest that if you build the Neo 2X first, go with the mills resistors, Sonicap capacitors, and No-Rez damping performance upgrade options. I went with these upgrades on all the Neo 2X's that I have built so far. Well worth the extra cost. I plan to order the N3S parts kits from Danny this coming week but will have to wait until warmer weather to build them. Plan to post pictures and evaluation comments when they are finished.

I have decided to order the kit with the Mills plus Sonicap upgrade and at least get the tweeter opening re-routed first.  If that goes well, I am getting the pre-cut no-rez kit from the Ninja.  These things need a lot of pieces, and I am not looking forward to putting it in, let alone trying to measure and cut for each section!  That said, if a screw up the veneer when routing (it is already dry and cracking) I will be building new boxes, and I will not want the pre-cut kit, at least not the same one.  Plus delaying the no-rez a few weeks will give me time to see what impact it has.   

After no-rez I am going to add the Sonicap Platnum bypass caps, but I think I am going to wait a few months to get used to them for another before and after experience.  I have plenty of speakers, so I am building these as much for the fun as anything else, so why not spread the joy out with a few upgrades pre-planned?  (Oooops, don't tell my wife I said that thing about plenty of speakers!)  I am also toying with upgrading to foil inductors, but at some point I need to save some coin and free time to build a servo sub or four. 

[shadowlight]

Hey Matt,

When you get the tweeter opening re-routed let me know how you went about doing that.  I purchased x-sls just to upgrade them to Neo2x but the rerouting of the tweeter opening is putting a damper.  I have zero skills when it comes to power tools and will see if someone local is willing to reroute for me.

[HAL]

Matt,
I have the N2X's with all the upgrades that you are intending for the X-SLS chassis in the PE rectangular boxes.   I had a pair of X-LS Ninja Master upgrades that have the Alpha-Core inductors and put them in the N2X's.   They sound great here!

[skeeter99]

If I were building a pair of them for myself, I'd go with the floor standing transmission line version.

It will have better low frequency extension, a little better driver control in the low end, and better power handling down low too.

Suh-Weet! Glad I'm going with what Danny would do himself I need to find a way to pay for the upgraded caps and resistors though 

[m-fine]

Hey Matt,

When you get the tweeter opening re-routed let me know how you went about doing that.  I purchased x-sls just to upgrade them to Neo2x but the rerouting of the tweeter opening is putting a damper.  I have zero skills when it comes to power tools and will see if someone local is willing to reroute for me.

The plan is to remove the drivers, hot glue a piece of wood in the tweeter cutout as a temp place to use as a pivot for a Jasper circle jig, and route away.  I was going to remove some felt and brace my plug against the back of the cabinet, but Seth suggested gluing a bar to the inside of the front baffle across the tweeter opening and then putting a piece of 3/4 scrap on top of that.  I will figure out which one I will do when I have them opened up.  The main concern is that the veneer might chip when routing.  My X-SLS are B- stock due to lots of veneer cracking.  They look good from a few feet back, but rub your and on them and you will feel all the cracks, which makes me worried they may be more prone to chipping than a better veneer.  I have 2 small kids, so I don't mind my N2X's living in B-stock cabinets for a few years.  It will lesson the concerns of toys bumping into them etc. and they still look pretty good to anyone not inspecting them.

If all goes well, you can bring your X-SLS with you next time you visit the Rochester NY area and I can help you route yours.  I am sure, like most people, you come here all the time!

 

[shadowlight]

The plan is to remove the drivers, hot glue a piece of wood in the tweeter cutout as a temp place to use as a pivot for a Jasper circle jig, and route away.  I was going to remove some felt and brace my plug against the back of the cabinet, but Seth suggested gluing a bar to the inside of the front baffle across the tweeter opening and then putting a piece of 3/4 scrap on top of that.  I will figure out which one I will do when I have them opened up.  The main concern is that the veneer might chip when routing.  My X-SLS are B- stock due to lots of veneer cracking.  They look good from a few feet back, but rub your and on them and you will feel all the cracks, which makes me worried they may be more prone to chipping than a better veneer.  I have 2 small kids, so I don't mind my N2X's living in B-stock cabinets for a few years.  It will lesson the concerns of toys bumping into them etc. and they still look pretty good to anyone not inspecting them.

If all goes well, you can bring your X-SLS with you next time you visit the Rochester NY area and I can help you route yours.  I am sure, like most people, you come here all the time!

 

Once the weather gets a bit warmer if I still have not gotten around to making the change.  I will just take you up on your offer and make a trip up to Rochester 

[m-fine]

Matt,
I have the N2X's with all the upgrades that you are intending for the X-SLS chassis in the PE rectangular boxes.   I had a pair of X-LS Ninja Master upgrades that have the Alpha-Core inductors and put them in the N2X's.   They sound great here!

   So were the X-LS inductor values the same as the N2X? 

To be honest, I am the most skeptical about the inductor upgrade having a noticeable impact.  The stock inductors are pretty high quality for a wire wound inductor, and at the lower power levels and the frequencies involved, I am not sure the advantages of the foil conductor will be that relevant.  I guess I'll find out. 

[m-fine]

Once the weather gets a bit warmer if I still have not gotten around to making the change.  I will just take you up on your offer and make a trip up to Rochester 

If you and your wife take up drinking, you could come visit the finger lakes wine region.   If I save my jigs, I am thinking I could route a second pair in 15-30 minutes including setup and tear down.

[Danny Richie]

Just use your Jasper jig to cut out a circle that is just like the face plate of the old tweeter from a scrape piece of wood. Then mount it just like it was a tweeter. Drill a few holes in it for the screws and stuff and just screw it in. Be sure to use a screw that will be flush or lower than the surface.

Tape over everything with clear packing tape.

Then make you a new pilot hole with the right center to center spacing for the N2X and cut a new hole.

[Danny Richie]

So were the X-LS inductor values the same as the N2X? 

If you are modifying your box to go from a X-SLS to an N2X kit then don't worry about the left over crossover from the X-SLS. You get a whole new one with the N2X kit.

[HAL]

Yes, the AlphaCore inductors I have for the X-LS Ninja Master upgrade are the same value as the N2X for the woofer XO.   I put them into the N2X XO's! 

[m-fine]

If you are modifying your box to go from a X-SLS to an N2X kit then don't worry about the left over crossover from the X-SLS. You get a whole new one with the N2X kit.

I was not planning on saving the cheapo X series classic parts, I was commenting on HAL's Ninja parts into a N2X crossover. 

[m-fine]

Just use your Jasper jig to cut out a circle that is just like the face plate of the old tweeter from a scrape piece of wood. Then mount it just like it was a tweeter. Drill a few holes in it for the screws and stuff and just screw it in. Be sure to use a screw that will be flush or lower than the surface.

Tape over everything with clear packing tape.

Then make you a new pilot hole with the right center to center spacing for the N2X and cut a new hole.

I'll have to look into that.  I think the screw lip might be a bit thin and wont the router cut itself off?  If that works it should be REAL EASY to move the jig from speaker to speaker. 

[Danny Richie]

I was not planning on saving the cheapo X series classic parts, I was commenting on HAL's Ninja parts into a N2X crossover. 

Ah, I get it now.

I'll have to look into that.  I think the screw lip might be a bit thin and wont the router cut itself off?  If that works it should be REAL EASY to move the jig from speaker to speaker. 

I pretty sure several others have used this method with good results.