My first GR build

Peter J · « **Reply #20 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 02:12 pm »

Don't despair, Ben, whatever you have, there is some way to make it better. Let us help!

If I'm understanding right, the edges that will butt against faces are not completely square? Your router can be used like a jointer to square them up. Sharp cutters and blades are a real help, too.

I've built many a cabinet with skillsaw and router. While time consuming, it doesn't necessarily mean imprecision.

S Clark · « **Reply #21 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 02:15 pm »

Have glued the boxes yet? If not, instead of regular wood glue, use a urethane glue such as Gorilla glue. It will expand up to about 1/8" filling gaps. If they are already glued and you have gaps, use Bondo as a wood filler and sand down the excess. You can get a perfectly smooth seem with it... better than wood filler.

PDR · « **Reply #22 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 03:13 pm »

Yep, bondo works great.....try automotive glazing putty as well, its a little easier to work with.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #23 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 03:18 pm »

Ron, I should have taken pictures before I posted. I seem to do this all the time?!?!?

They are not glued.

I was expecting that any kind of filler wouldn't stay long. But I like the idea of knowing bondo and gorilla glue are good for this issue.

I don't have a straight bit with a bearing for my router. Is that what would be used to square edges with a router? I need to look into that.

Sounds so middle school, but I'm relieved and glad that I can still make them look like I want!!

I really appreciate the help. I do plan on posting pictures too. I have cutouts of ports and cups, but I stopped there.

Thanks again,
Ben

Ron · « **Reply #24 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 05:55 pm »

A straight flush trim router bit is what you need to square the edges. They are available from places like Grizzly Tool, Rockler, and WoodWorkers Supply with either 1/4" or 1/2" diameter shanks. The following is what is available from Grizzly Tool: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shear-Cut-Flush-Trim-Bit-1-2-Shank/C1354

What I normally do first is build the enclosure by gluing the sides, top, and bottom together with yellow wood workers glue like Tite Bond and clamping tightly. Be sure to wipe off any excess glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth or sponge before it dries. After the joints have dried throughly, go over the joint with a flush trim router bit. Next I glue the front and rear baffles with yellow wood workers glue or urethane glue and clamp tightly. Be sure to wipe of the excess glue off quickly before it has a chance to dry. Normally I make the front and rear baffles slightly oversized by 1/16" - 1/8" and then trim flush with the flush trim router bit. If you have any gaps, fill in with Bondo or a good grade of wood filler and sand smooth after it dries throughly.

Do you plan to veneer the enclosures or paint them?

rockdrummer · « **Reply #25 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 06:32 pm »

Thanks, Ron.
I was going to glue the front baffle last, but the rest of the order I wasn't sure about.

They will be painted black. I haven't decided what kind of paint. Probably spray.

When I'm done gluing, I was going to seal the edges with some sort of wood glue/water mix. Then prime, then paint.

Ben

Ron · « **Reply #26 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 07:22 pm »

Since you plan to paint, it is very important to make sure the seams as well as all surface areas are sanded well, smooth, and sealed especially the end grain. If the edges are not sealed properly they will soke up paint like a sponge. Brushing on wood glue to seal the edges works well. You will probably need several coats of primer, lightly sanding with 320 grit sand paper between coats. Either Krylon or Rust-O-leum Satin Black looks good. Also, I suggest lightly sanding with 400 grit sand paper between coats.

Good luck completing your speaker building project.

minisq · « **Reply #27 on:** 4 Apr 2012, 11:30 am »

Quote from: rockdrummer on 3 Apr 2012, 01:00 pm

Let me begin by admitting that I knew it wasn't the wisest decision to do this, but I knew I didn't have access to a table saw, or a jointer. I started this project anyway. I thought that several painstaking hours would make for decent butt joints. I think I almost have that.

I measured, measured again, doublechecked the lines, etc. I did a fair job cutting pieces with a circular saw. Now, I'm embarrassingly admitting that the cabinets don't look like I want.

I fit them together and test clamped them and they look just fine. After lots of careful sanding with a block, I will have a passable structure. But I can't get perfect seams. The outer edge of the joint doesn't always fit perfectly because of ever so slightly rounded connections. I feel like making the purely cosmetic hairline blemishes disappear is unlikely.
I know I have a good connection up and down each joint, but because it's not totally perfect, I will be praying a filler will do the trick.

The pieces fit like clockwork, but being a perfectionist without perfect tools, I'm saddened by my results. .
Any words of wisdom?

Ben

you can always buy premade cabinets from PE for about $75

rockdrummer · « **Reply #28 on:** 4 Apr 2012, 04:29 pm »

The pieces are connecting, but not like I wanted, and also not with a square edge.

Not glued yet.

Examples

S Clark · « **Reply #29 on:** 4 Apr 2012, 04:33 pm »

I see no clamps on the top board and a pretty good gap there. With a gap that big, wood glue is not as good as gorilla glue.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #30 on:** 12 Apr 2012, 12:05 am »

Just finished what I hope to be my final cuts of my front baffles. The only real "play" my circle jig had was from the bolts I used to attach it to the router. The crude cuts I made for those bolts would hold tight, but I had to set it exactly where I wanted it. After that, the circles were smooth sailing.

This was really fun.
Ready for fitting and gluing. I think....

rockdrummer · « **Reply #31 on:** 12 Apr 2012, 12:08 am »

Sorry, I forgot to rotate this photo. Not sure if I can when it's already in my gallery. Will remember for next time.
Sad to be finished with this step. I enjoyed this very much. I'm a total DIY speaker addict now.

ben

pureiso · « **Reply #32 on:** 12 Apr 2012, 01:40 pm »

Quote from: rockdrummer on 12 Apr 2012, 12:08 am

Sorry, I forgot to rotate this photo. Not sure if I can when it's already in my gallery. Will remember for next time.
Sad to be finished with this step. I enjoyed this very much. I'm a total DIY speaker addict now.

ben

Be sure to round the inside of the woofer hole.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #33 on:** 12 Apr 2012, 03:24 pm »

I did get that done, Pureiso. Thanks.

Here is a related question. How many suggest rounding over the edges of the front baffle? I asked Danny this and he said either way should be fine. Can't decide if it will look better aesthetically.

I found places to get grill magnets but I'm not sure what size to get. Anyone have extra they want to sell?

Can I get sufficient grill cloth or another substitute at fabric stores?

Thanks,
Ben

cody69 · « **Reply #34 on:** 13 Apr 2012, 01:55 am »

Quote

Here is a related question. How many suggest rounding over the edges of the front baffle? I asked Danny this and he said either way should be fine. Can't decide if it will look better aesthetically.

This is clearly a personal preference... I've built them both ways and prefer the look of the rounded edges. I use a 3/4" round-over bit... since I typically veneer, the larger radius makes it easier to bend the veneer. If you are painting the cabinet, then this is not a concern.

Quote

I found places to get grill magnets but I'm not sure what size to get. Anyone have extra they want to sell?

I like the 1/2" rare earth magnets from Lee Valley. They are very strong and since I usually have them recessed underneath the veneer, I like the additional holding power of these large magnets. For painted cabinets, you could get by with a smaller 3/8" magnet. I also use the cup and washers they sell.

Quote

Can I get sufficient grill cloth or another substitute at fabric stores?

I get mine at the local fabric shops, they carry speaker cloth and sell by the yard.

You are doing a nice job with your speakers... have fun and you're really going to enjoy them when they're done.

daveforshee · « **Reply #35 on:** 21 Apr 2012, 05:16 am »

Any progress? I can't wait to see how they turn out.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #36 on:** 22 Apr 2012, 06:59 am »

Sorry, I've slowed due to busy kid schedules. I will pre-drill holes to fasten the crossover to the bottom of the cabinet, then I'm going to start gluing. Hopefully tomorrow.

Thanks for asking daveforshee.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #37 on:** 29 Apr 2012, 12:27 am »

Some pics. Will be doing some serious sanding after this step. I like clamps.

Using Titebond. After putting the back baffle on, I will go to the other cabinet. I will put the no-rez in before the front baffle. Then put on the fronts, finish the outside of the cabinets to right before the finish paint coats, put in the crossover and wiring and paint it up. Quite a ways away from that, but if I'm missing something, you know I invite you to let me know and critique.

Thanks,
Ben

django11 · « **Reply #38 on:** 29 Apr 2012, 04:15 pm »

If you still have any small gaps you can always put some glue in the gaps just before you sand. The sanding dust will form a paste with the glue ( Random orbit sanders are great btw. They blow away standard vibrating sanders). Alternately you could use PL Premium which comes in a caulking tube on the inside of the cabinet. Make sure you read the instructions on the tube. Fill the outside crack with any wood filler...

rockdrummer · « **Reply #39 on:** 1 May 2012, 01:38 pm »

I started laying out the ofc wire for my crossovers. I have a question about the speaker terminals. When I solder the ofc to the terminals, do I simply insert the wire into the eyelet and make contact or should I actually bend the wire to grab onto the terminal? Before I started to do that, I wanted to ask to avoid possible damage to the terminals. I don't know how much flexibility they have. I searched for a while, both build pics and that topic specifically, and didn't find this exact answer.

I have tops, sides and bottoms glued. I love the structural stability these have. I have sold various speaker brands for a now-gone electronics company. Never once do I remember carrying a bookshelf speaker with this much heft! Some sanding to fit and avoid seams, and using some wood glue with mdf dust has filled some small ones. It wasn't as bad as I originally thought.
Ben