[Hugh]

Ditto.

I used 5 1/2 sheets of No Rez. The top woofer section was wider than the rest. I also had one other woofer section slightly smaller than 5 1/2" on each speaker. Like I mentioned earlier, I adhered the No Rez with 3M 77 spray adhesive. The No Rez wouldn't stick good enough with its own adhesive, but I had some sawdust and stuff in my boxes even though I had tried to clean them out. I was able to cut a 35 degree angle on the side piece and then just put the back piece flush up against it without mitering a 2nd piece. The foamHere is what I cut per speaker:

[mojave]

Didn't you see replace those Erse caps with better ones?

If not, you should.

I purchased the upgrade kit directly from Danny. Which replacements would you recommend? Here is a picture of an upgraded LS-9 crossover and it still has Erse caps.

Those LS-6's are looking good!   

Thanks!

[Hugh]

If I were you, I would listen to yours for several months first to see how you'd like them.

When I come back from RMAF, I'll take pictures of the ones we got.

I purchased the upgrade kit directly from Danny. Which replacements would you recommend? Here is a picture of an upgraded LS-9 crossover and it still has Erse caps.


Thanks!

[Milehighguy]

I appreciate your detailed account of the assembly process. I too have 2 pairs of LS-6 cabinets from the av123 auction. Not sure when I'll have the cash to start but you post is motivational for sure, and I'm going to save your post for future reference. My question is how are you planning to integrate the IB subs with the LS-6's? are you going to run the towers full range, or put some kind of high pass filter on them? what frequency will you run the IB subs up to? As you said, the bass quality and quantity of the LS-6 is better than most high quality subwoofers out there. Most of the time putting a sub with the LS-6 is like putting a hat rack on a moose. But if you are trying to achieve super low response into the low teens or below for home theater, that's cool. I'm just curious as to how you're going to integrate the sub with the LS-6's.

[mojave]

I appreciate your detailed account of the assembly process. I too have 2 pairs of LS-6 cabinets from the av123 auction. Not sure when I'll have the cash to start but you post is motivational for sure, and I'm going to save your post for future reference. My question is how are you planning to integrate the IB subs with the LS-6's? are you going to run the towers full range, or put some kind of high pass filter on them? what frequency will you run the IB subs up to? As you said, the bass quality and quantity of the LS-6 is better than most high quality subwoofers out there. Most of the time putting a sub with the LS-6 is like putting a hat rack on a moose. But if you are trying to achieve super low response into the low teens or below for home theater, that's cool. I'm just curious as to how you're going to integrate the sub with the LS-6's.

My signal chain is very simple:  HTPC with JRiver Media Center > Asynchronous USB to 8 channel DAC > Amplifiers > Speakers & Subs.

I have owned a DCX2496 and miniDSP in the past, but JRiver is so much more powerful and flexible and requires no DA/AD conversions. Also, all processing is done at 64-bit for the highest accuracy. JRiver has a parametric equalizer that allows for various configurations and these configurations can be based on whether the source is music, movies, two channel, or multi-channel. I can change high pass and low pass frequencies and slopes, route bass to single or multiple subs, use overlapping crossovers, route LFE back to mains, and many more options.

Here are some options I will try for 2 channel:

• Use only the LS-6 speakers
• Copy bass from left speaker to left sub and from right speaker to right sub. Put a 80-100 Hz low pass on the IB subs and run the speakers full range. Use 12 dB/octave slopes. Attenuate the volume in the overlap so there is still a flat frequency response. This results in four sources for the bass.
• Move bass from left speaker to left sub and from right speaker to right sub. Try from a 40-100 Hz low pass on the IB subs and a corresponding high pass on the LS-6 speakers. Vary the slopes from 12 dB to 48 dB/octave to find the best integration. This is more like a 3-way speaker for both left and right.
• Copy bass from mains to both subs. Mains are still full range and both subs get the combined bass. Try various crossover frequencies and slopes.
• Move bass from mains to both subs and use the same crossover frequency for both subs and mains. Try various crossovers frequencies and slopes.
• Add EQ filters to any of the above to smooth the bass frequency response.
• Use Audiolense to generate convolution filters for various configurations so that all frequencies are phase coherent and the frequency response is smoothed. Load the convolution filters in JRiver's native convolution engine.

I can try similar options for movies or multi-channel audio including routing all midbass from all other speakers and LFE back to the LS-6's.
 

[Milehighguy]

Thanks for the detailed answer. Sounds like you have plenty of options. I'm sure you'll let us know what works best.

[doug067]

Enjoying the build as well. I have a pair and I'm up to the no rez and port tubes installed. Be interested in pictures of the wired drivers, tweeter, bass managment and x-over if you think of it.

[doug067]

Picture of upgraded x-over

[mojave]

Enjoying the build as well. I have a pair and I'm up to the no rez and port tubes installed. Be interested in pictures of the wired drivers, tweeter, bass managment and x-over if you think of it.

I didn't take any pictures while I was wiring that stuff up. I had to drill two small holes at the back of the tweeter section near the bottom. I drilled so that the wires would just fit through and aligned the holes with the tabs on the back of the bottom tweeter. I turned over the tweeters and wired them per the wiring diagram from Danny. I then had some more help and flipped all the tweeters over together and put them in the tweeter section.

The drivers were all laid out and I ran all the wiring and tinned the ends. Don't tin the ends over the speaker cabinet. On my first one a drop of solder landed on the cabinet. I then started at the bottom and soldered the wires to the drivers. Once each driver was completed I turned it over and set it in the opening. This way I could use shorter wires. I ran the wires through the brace hole that is below the tweeter cabinet.

The bass management connections were confusing me and I ended up talking to Danny about it. Below is a picture of the bass management and crossover. The bass module was designed to have the binding posts connected to it through the big holes at the bottom. It module was then wired to the crossover's inputs. However, if you use the tube connectors you can just wire directly from the tube connectors to the crossover.

I installed the tube connectors on the access panel, attached the wire lead and connected per the stickied thread at the top of this subforum. I then ran the wire lead through the bass module's hole and screwed the bass module to the access panel. Next I connected the tube connector leads to the crossover and then the bass module to the crossover. I drew connections for the wires in the picture. The last thing I soldered was the woofer and tweeter leads to the crossover board. Note that the red and white wires are reversed for the tweeter and woofer. I couldn't read the + and - very well on the woofer connection and wired it first with the red on the left just like the tweeter connection. I later looked at the other crossover before I connected it and realized my mistake.

Finally I put the crossover in the speaker and screwed it down with Spax #8 1" screws. I had to use a short (but not a stubby) screwdriver. Make sure the crossover is back far enough to leave room for the bass module when you put the access door on.



 

[mojave]

Tuesday evening I had my parents over. My dad turns 65 next week. Back in the late 60's he built a Dynaco ST-120 amp and preamp. I'm not sure what speakers he had at the time, be he later got some Polk 10b speakers. I listened to that system all the way until I left for college. He sold the Polks on craigslist about 2 years ago and threw away the Dyanaco stuff about 10 years ago.

We listened to some of Toccata and Fugue with Zsigmond Szathmary on organ, Tchaikovsky:  1812 Overture, Classic Yo-Yo, Kenny Rogers, Amy Grant, and we finished with about an hour of Chris Botti in Boston Blu-ray (pcm stereo 48/24 track). While we listened my mom, wife, and kids made chocolate chip cookies in the kitchen.

It was a wonderful evening and the music was so enjoyable on the LS-6's. The organ music and 1812 Overture really show the dynamics, presence, and power of the LS-6's. My dad commented that it really felt like we were in a cathedral with a live organ - and this was with 30 dB of volume still available. Yo-Yo Ma's cello sounded wonderful with the 16 woofers covering its entire frequency range. Male and female vocals are articulate and you can notice the various nuances of voicing and enunciation. If you haven't listened/watched Chris Botti in Boston you should. It is a real treat and includes artists such as Sting, Josh Groban, Steven Tyler, Yo-Yo Ma, and others. It showed off how naturally the LS-6's render drums, piano, double bass, and cymbals. I turned on the projector and lowered the screen and it seemed like we were there at the concert.

My order for Master of Chinese Percussion by Yim Hok-Man shipped yesterday. I can't wait to run this through the LS-6's.

[Tyson]

Yes, there are some things that line source speakers do that other speaker types simply cannot match.  Congrats on the successful build!

[mojave]

I originally set the bass management to Medium. I tried changing to Large and was able to on one speaker. However, on the other speaker I can't get the access panel off. This is probably one of the few disadvantages of the tube connectors - there is nothing to pull on like regular binding posts. I could screw a handle to the back of the access panel, but I would have to make sure I didn't go in too far and hit the bass management module that is attached to the backside. I really don't want to screw anything into, though. Any creative suggestions?

[stevenkelby]

How about one of those 3M picture hangers? You can stick it on, pull on it, then remove it:



Maybe.

Could also try balling up a heap of masking or packing tape, sticky side out. Stick that on and pull?

My last idea is to hot glue a suitable handle (('d use a great big nut or bolt) then remove the hot glue afterwards with isopropyl alcohol. Might hurt your finish though...

[Danny Richie]

I originally set the bass management to Medium. I tried changing to Large and was able to on one speaker. However, on the other speaker I can't get the access panel off. This is probably one of the few disadvantages of the tube connectors - there is nothing to pull on like regular binding posts. I could screw a handle to the back of the access panel, but I would have to make sure I didn't go in too far and hit the bass management module that is attached to the backside. I really don't want to screw anything into, though. Any creative suggestions?

You might be able to pull the lower woofer out then reach through the cabinet and push the door open from the inside.

[gab]

I originally set the bass management to Medium. I tried changing to Large and was able to on one speaker. However, on the other speaker I can't get the access panel off. This is probably one of the few disadvantages of the tube connectors - there is nothing to pull on like regular binding posts. I could screw a handle to the back of the access panel, but I would have to make sure I didn't go in too far and hit the bass management module that is attached to the backside. I really don't want to screw anything into, though. Any creative suggestions?

I had the same problem when I was building mine up (AV123 cabinet) - I had to do what Danny suggested via the bottom woofer hole and a long stick, but my crossover wasn't installed at the time so I don't know if that approach would work today. I think if I had to access the crossover again I would first try to take the suction cup that attaches my Nuvi navigator to the windshield and see if that would provide enough suction on the access panel to remove it. Haven't ever tried this, just throwing out suggestions.

gab

[mojave]

Thanks for the ideas. Maybe I should plug all the ports and play something with bass extremely loud. This might pop the panel off. 

[mojave]

I decided to measure the frequency response with the medium room setting and it looks like the right setting for my room so I left it and never did remove the cover.

On Saturday I had 29 other guys over to my house as part of the Omaha Home Theater Tour. We listened to music and movies for about an 1 hour 20 minutes before heading to the next house in the tour. After the last stop, I had 8 guys over for prime rib, smoked tri-tip, baby portobello mushrooms sauteed in wine and olive oil, salad buffet, corn bread, bread sticks, and sweet potato fries. After dinner we spent some more time listening to the LS-6's and the new JTR Noesis 212HT speakers.

Those that arrived after I had lowered my AT projector screen didn't know until the end that I didn't have a center speaker. They were surprised at how a phantom center could sound so good and the voices could be crystal clear and positioned correctly even for those standing outside the width of the speakers.

I go by Desertdome at AVS. Here are some of the comments from the day on Danny's wonderful speakers:

". . . the best 2 channel sound I've ever heard."

"Deserdome's living room space was truly unique. Something you may only have the opportunity to see and experience once in your life. The LS6 towers were majestic."

"Desertdome's multipurpose room win's for me in the sound quality department. I am an audiogeek and am more interested in perfect sound than perfect picture. Those towers simply blew me away and is exactly the sound I've been looking for. I watch more concerts than movies and can only imagine what some of my favorites would sound like on his system. He unique use of space for his subs is one of the more "out in left field" approaches I've ever experienced and they sound amazing."

"Desertdome's house was a completely different deal, in a great way! The LS-6's were far and away the pinnacle of the day (for me!) I have never heard a more detailed and natural sounding speaker than these. Planar ribbon tweeters were so sweet. Pretty unreal. . . .Phantom center was a non-issue no matter where I was in the living room."

"I haven't heard music like that in a long time and was pleased to see that's how you focused your demo."

It was a very fun day and even after everyone left I stayed up past midnight listening to music.

[mlbrand]

Mojave,

Great write up on your home theater tour and some really nice compliments on your setup. That sounds like a lot of fun, I wish I had enough fellow enthusiasts around here to have a tour like that. Like you, I have a pair of LS-6's up front, used with a SeymourAV AT screen when I'm using the projector. It really does make for an awesome and very flexible multi-purpose HT/2 channel/Den! I picked up my screen at Chris Seymour's place (6 or 7 years ago?), and he really is a great guy, with some excellent audio knowledge as well.

As for the rest of my equipment; I built a pair of Danny's NS3's for side surrounds a few years, and use an X-Voce as a center channel. I might build an LS-Center sometime when I get some time. My subs are not in your league though, as I've got some of the original AV123 dual MFW-15's. I've thought about doing the Turbo upgrade, but not sure of the "bang for the buck" so to speak. I've also thought about a DIY IB sub setup, as I have a crawl space under my HT room that could work for that. I might pick your brain on that someday.

[mojave]

mlbrand, is that you and your buck with the LS-6 on the SeymourAV website? I removed the buck from my living room as a concession to my wife for putting the LS-6's in there.

I had dual MFW-15's and did the Turbo upgrade. I was part of the very first Turbo's. Freerider is now using the Turbo's with his LS-6's. I thought the upgrade was worth it if you don't want to go the DIY route. The Turbo's sound terrific. I also built 4 dual opposed sealed subs with MFW-15 drivers. My cost with amp was the same as the dual Turbo's, but they are larger. I just sold them to someone local and installed them behind his AT screen in his theater. He was the first stop on the tour.

[mlbrand]

Yep, that is me and my buck! I've since moved it to my office at work. Since my den/ht room is separate from her living room, my wife didn't care, I just ran out of space. I need to have Chris upgrade my AT screen material some day, I'm still using the first original material he sold. It still looks and works pretty good, but I hear the newer screens have better PQ.

I appreciate the info on the Turbos. Since I built my first pair of speakers I am tempted to build a pair of subs, but it might be hard to get the same performance as the MFW Turbos for any cheaper. Plus the MFW's do look pretty darn good and fit my room nicely.