[Captainhemo]

You cold  try Bob over at Creative Sound Solutions, he's down  at the coast.    Might be worth a try.
Happy early Thankjsgiving, enjoy the feat

[SteveRB]

I plan to use (strong) magnets to mount the grill cloth frames. I would like to bury the magnets in the front baffle and fill and paint over them. The grills will also have corresponding magnets surface mounted on the frame.

Has anyone encountered issues with this approach?

I would hate to go through the trouble and have the magnets not hold or get ripped out of the baffle or something...

[Captainhemo]

I used magnets for my grills.  Got them from :
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=13
I used the D44 N52 model and they  are pretty strong.  I did not bury them in the front baffle although  this is what I would do   if I was to do it over..  It would be nice to have them hiddeen, one of those things  I wish I had thought of

-jay

[SteveRB]

Thanks,

I was able to get similar magnets locally, 50 cents a piece. man, are they strong. I'm hoping four corners of each will be enough; I may add an extra row (6 total) for the lower grill.

As for the cloth, a few of the vintage guys recommend needlepoint linen for their Dynacos. I kind of like the 'softness' of the linen and most of the furniture in my house is either home made birch ply or Danish teak. I just worry about the elasticity compared to actual speaker cloth; I would hate if it started to sag...

http://www.123stitch.com/cgi-perl/itemdetail.pl?item=59-135Y

I'm not too worried about acoustic transparency with the servo woofers and most of my listening will be grill off for the coax. Here is a comparison of an original A25 (left) and the linen (right):

[ebag4]

I plan to use (strong) magnets to mount the grill cloth frames. I would like to bury the magnets in the front baffle and fill and paint over them. The grills will also have corresponding magnets surface mounted on the frame.

Has anyone encountered issues with this approach?

I would hate to go through the trouble and have the magnets not hold or get ripped out of the baffle or something...

I used small (1/4") neo magnets for my grills and have no issue.  Just be certain to get the polarity correct before gluing them in, I nearly made the mistake of having one set in opposition.

Best,
Ed

[Captainhemo]

How big are the ones you got locally  and from where ?  I wonder if they ship .... I'm going to need some more for  future projects

-jay

[SteveRB]

Main Electronics in Vancouver. They have a ton of various sizes.

[SteveRB]

I used small (1/4") neo magnets for my grills and have no issue.  Just be certain to get the polarity correct before gluing them in, I nearly made the mistake of having one set in opposition.

Best,
Ed

Ed, what are your grill cloths made of?

[ebag4]

Ed, what are your grill cloths made of?

I believe it is called Muslin (sp?).  I picked it up at a local fabric store, Hancock Fabrics.  It looks quite a bit like your second sample, quite transparent and no sagging issue, it looks the same as the day I mounted it.  I believe the color was "Natural" or something like that.

Best,
Ed

[SteveRB]

I am thinking about getting a small enclosure for the xo; Are there any issues with mounting the xo on a piece of metal?

Also, i am now looking into using a solid piece of hardwood for the side panels. I am unfamiliar with this type of wood working -- are there any issues using a solid piece of wood versus MDF or Ply?

Thanks

[Danny Richie]

I am thinking about getting a small enclosure for the xo; Are there any issues with mounting the xo on a piece of metal?

Also, i am now looking into using a solid piece of hardwood for the side panels. I am unfamiliar with this type of wood working -- are there any issues using a solid piece of wood versus MDF or Ply?

Thanks

Actually, depending on the type of metal that you use, you will effect the values of the inductors. I would stick with some type of wood.

[SteveRB]

Danny,

I know you suggest the xo behind the co-axe; however, I'm hoping to keep that area clean. Is there any negative effects with mounting the xo in the lower section, behind the binding posts?

[Danny Richie]

Danny,

I know you suggest the xo behind the co-axe; however, I'm hoping to keep that area clean. Is there any negative effects with mounting the xo in the lower section, behind the binding posts?

Well, if you can get it all to fit back there then I guess you can.  As you run the four wires up top to the coaxial I would recommend to braid them or at least spiral twist them together.

[SteveRB]

Well, life does slow down these builds sometimes.

Yesterday was the first really V! work day in a couple weeks. Skeletons are almost all done and the side panels are 75%.

Pictures to come.

[PDR]

Can hardly wait to see some pics.

My father in law lives down in Vancouver, met my wife there during my 12 yr stay.
Hes done a couple of small GR builds, hes a good craftsmen, I think theres a V
build in his future as well.

[SteveRB]

When I had the pieces CNC cut originally, I only had them cut one of the side panels. I knew there may be a few variations one the main skeleton started going together and I didn't want to be stuck with a bunch of panels that didn't fit. Call it DIY apprehension.

Well now that that the skeleton is assembled and finished, I tested the one computer cut panel -- Perfect fit! Makes me wish I just had him cut them all...

Oh well, I used the one as a template to router out the others. Needless to say, with that much Routing and MDF dust I coated the garden.

[SteveRB]

Finishing the skeleton took a little more filling and sanding than originally thought. But with my large sanding block and a couple patient days of drywall filling, I was able to get the appearance of a seamless piece.

Once that was established I did a couple roll on coats of primer (white) followed by two coats of spray on primer grey to knock down the colour.

Yesterday I was able to get in two coats of truck liner paint. Wow, this stuff goes on well: even and covers great.After 24 hours it seems rock hard. I have one more coat I would like to do, to clean it up a bit. The only issue so far is that it is a little TOO hard: when I wipe down the dust the paint tears up the cloth and leaves a fibres on the surface. I'm sure this stuff could take a pressure washer; I just have to figure out how to dust it without leaving more crap behind...

Here are a couple close ups of the finish:

[SteveRB]

I had a tough time budgeting how to do the side panel wood finish. Every option I priced out came in well over $300. That just breaks the bank for this project.

Going through the local Windsor Plywood store I found an interesting inconsistency:
Teak veneer is $70 for a 2'x8' sheet meaning i would need at least 4 sheets and would still have to invest in the thick MDF core. And the thick sheets of teak veneer birch-ply is over $150 a sheet. So my plan of two of those sheets is shot. However, they stock 1/8" teak ply at less than $30 a sheet! That is less than half the price of the veneer for twice the material...!?

So with that I purchased all the material on budget and the 1/8 material is much easier to work with than the veneer itself. I picked up a roll of 2" teak edge tape at $1.20/ft to finish the deal.

So for the side panels I will have a constrained-layered-damped panel that is much stiffer and less resonant than a single material.

I was only able to get one side of all the panels done yesterday before the rain came. One more day and they should be all finished...! Too bad I gotta go to work on monday... and I'm booked to go visit family the following weekend...


 

[SteveRB]

But over all,

I have a great day yesterday. I can finally see how these are going to look.

Here's a quick mock up of my V!.

[persisting1]

This is one of my favorite V builds. I really like the side panels. Nice work