AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: NoahH on 19 Apr 2022, 03:01 am
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Hey all,
I am going to be cutting no-rez with some miter cuts for the subwoofer enclosures.
I was planning to use a saw stop tablesaw when someone asked if the no-rez is at all conductive and would therefore trigger the saw stop brake. Does anyone know if it is conductive at all?
In general, are folks doing their no-rez cutting with table saws or miter saws or what?
Thanks all!
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I cut no-rez with my Sawstop with no issues, but you can always bypass the blade brake if you're worried.
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I make the main cuts, both straight and mitered, on the table saw. If I want to add bevels, I do that on the band saw after the pieces are cut on the table saw.
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Awesome - thanks all!
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If you need to smaller pieces, and not use a power tool, these work great. Got them at Home Depot. They can cut through leather etc.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=239764)
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They are Wiss 10 in HD Tradesman Shop Shears.
Model #CW10TM
Home Depot generally has them in stock.
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I just use a bunch of cheap, single-edge razor blades.
They cut the foam like warm butter, then I'll fold it over to make it easier to cut the vinyl layer, then cut it the rest of the way through. Exacto knife works well for the vinyl layer and it wont dull nearly as quickly as the razor blades will.
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I used an old bread knife to cut NoRes. It worked really well for me.
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I used a band saw and was able to cut complex curves (for example behind the woofer in the NX Studio) with ease - after a little practice.
And yes, it's good to have an extra sheet of NoRez to get that practice.
Frank
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Bandsaw is amazing for it.
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I use scissors however they might get a little gummed up.
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I used a band saw. Cuts like butter. XLS Encore build.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=240058)
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Hey all,
Thanks for all the advice above.
For those who have done the bevel-cuts to made the no-rez inside the sub baffles, did you do exactly 45 degree cuts, or did you do a little less to let the pieces push on each other a little since they are compliant?
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I havn't seen anyone recommend this but I figured out a really easy way to cut NoRez. I use a big Exacto knife but use just the tip of the blade to score the hard side of the No-Rez. You dont have to score it very deep. I then bend along the score line. The No-Rez will split into two pieces perfectly along the line. I then extend the blade and use the gap in the No-Rez as a guide to saw through the foam portion of the No-Rez. This is really easy and fast and will create a clean straight cut.
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I havn't seen anyone recommend this but I figured out a really easy way to cut NoRez.
Awesome! Thanks
Welcome to AudioCircle, Mel!
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This is exactly how I cut mine the first time. I've also used a retractable Olfa blade with better luck as that gets the super sharp cut for the backing but can be extended to cut the foam like butter in one swipe. No-Rez will dull blades pretty quick though, so whatever you use, keep some extra blades on hand.
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I cut No-Rez on my Saw Stop very regularly with no problems and I do not disable the safety.
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I used a carpet knife. It pretty much sucked, but got the job done. My cuts were not nice and clean like those pictured above, but I figured what the hell, nobody is going to ever see them, so I just carried on.
If you want nice clean cuts, do not use a carpet knife.
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If you want nice clean cuts, do not use a carpet knife.
Sometimes the best advice is words of caution what not to do. :lol:
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I cut No-Rez on my Saw Stop very regularly with no problems and I do not disable the safety.
The SawStop is how I ended up doing this. It worked incredibly well. A miter saw would work really well too.
I was beyond anal because I have giant 6 stacks and wanted the very-visible no-rez to look perfect. I ended up making a couple basic jigs and doing it on a SawStop and got to about 1/16th inch precision pretty easily.
Thanks to all the folks who replied when I first started this thread.
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For those using a table saw, what blade do you recommend? I was thinking a 180+ tooth plywood blade?
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180 tooth blade? I didn't know there such a blade.
My best cross cut blade is 90t. Freud.
You don't need to consider the tooth count. A sharp 40 tooth will do fine.
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Don't invest a lot of money in a blade for this purpose. A basic 90t will cut pretty clean and I have a feeling that this material will dull the blade quicker than most.
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There is not much to cutting this stuff on a table saw. Any blade you use will slice through it like butter.
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Be careful using the table saw. It won’t only slice through no-rez like butter. :wink:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=246879)
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Yikes! I got my hand in saw once a long time ago and gained a big respect for machines.
Been queried many times about NoRez cutting. It's really frustrating for some. I've been meaning to experiment with this and finally got some longer saber saw blades to give it whirl. Was kinda awkward flopping off edge of my table, but backing with foam gave a stable platform and a place for blade to plunge freely. May work for some and saber saw blades are less expensive than bandsaw blades.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=246910)
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In looking at the No-Rez cutting post's I see what other's are using and some of their pitfalls. Here is a hand tool that works well. It uses any hacksaw or electric saw blade (of similar size).You pick which blade works for you (fine to course). It offers excellent control at "human speed" thus saving your fingers. You will be able to cut intricate shapes. Here is a link to a Stanley brand sold at Home Depot (as an example of one place to get it), https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-4-5-in-Tooth-Saw-with-Plastic-Handle-20-220/100654917. See attached picture of the Tooth saw.
All the best to all.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=248045)
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I started this thread and realize I should probably share where I ended up.
I used a SawStop table saw. The material did not cause any conductivity issues for the safety mechanism, and I had no issues with any gunk or anything from the material itself in the table saw. It worked great.
Biggest note I have is that I built a carriage and jig since I was doing 96 pieces for my subwoofers, and cannot recommend that enough. Every piece is exact to within 1/16th, and it makes it visually better and there is no peeling away from the sides since all the pieces are perfectly flush against each other.