AudioCircle

Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Danny23 on 27 Apr 2019, 10:50 pm

Title: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 27 Apr 2019, 10:50 pm
Hello, AC folks! My name is Dan.  I’m a long-time lurker, but haven’t contributed up until now.  I’ve begun building my wedgie kit, so I figured I’d share my adventure, and ask a few questions along the way.  I’m a true novice, so I fully intend to tap into the group’s knowledge base.  I have a pair of dual 12” servo subs and amps waiting for a wedge base, so I’ll share that build here too


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=193960)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=193961)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=193962)

The glue up has gone well thus far. I cut out the short wing, and spent WAY too long sanding and getting the shape just right, but it came out pretty perfect.

Now a few questions, if I may.

1.) My current setup are Maggies (1,7i or mini Maggies w/dual DWMs, depending on my mood).  I’m using a Crown 2502 amp.  I think the Crown will be doing the Wedgies a disservice, so I’m considering an upgrade to some tube goodness. Do you think a Bottlehead Kaiju (8 watts) will be enough?  Note that I’m upgrading the Maggie’s because I want more dynamics, but I also love the tube sound, and the BH kit sounds fun to build. Alternatively, I could do a pair of strapped Kaijus (16w each), but that is a bit pricey. I listen to a broad mix - classical, jazz, and rock.  I do like it pretty loud, but not “rip-your-head-off” loud.
2.) Can someone with more experience please double check my crossover layout?  See below.

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=193963)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=193964)

3.) Does anyone have a drawing of a dual 12” sub wedge base?  I found a few build threads, but I haven’t found a drawing with dimensions.

Thanks for reading!

Dan
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 28 Apr 2019, 02:22 am
I’ve powered my Wedgies with a 5wpc tube amp (OddWatt Podwatt). They sounded pretty good with it but they sounded a lot better with a 15-20 watt tube amp. I don’t know how the Bottlehead amp will perform. If the room isn’t too big it should be fine.

I’ve built the wedge base. I’ll look to see if I have plans. The ones I built were for three 8” servo woofers. I don’t know if Danny has got more of those drivers in yet.

Mike
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 28 Apr 2019, 01:08 pm
Would rotating the smaller inductor 90deg work better?  Like this:

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194011)
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: corndog71 on 28 Apr 2019, 05:21 pm
Bottlehead makes some nice kits.  I still use their Reduction phono preamp. 

For low to moderately sensitive speakers I would recommend more power.

http://www.tubes4hifi.com/ (http://www.tubes4hifi.com/) is another great source for tube amps at reasonable prices.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 28 Apr 2019, 05:35 pm
You'd be better off having  the  small inductor on  edge in between the  2 larger ones  on their sides so that if it  were to roll ( like a  tire) it would roll into the center of one of the larger inductors.  Keep the large ones  as far apart as possible

jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 28 Apr 2019, 06:12 pm
Like this?  Would it be better to stand up the inductor on the right too?

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194039)
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 28 Apr 2019, 06:18 pm
No

Have you read through the “Crossover assembly 101” thread in the sticky section of the GR Research circle main page? There are some good tips there.

Be sure the board you are going to build the crossover on fits in the place you want to put it. I neglected to do that and ended up with the crossovers sticking out the back of the speakers.

Mike
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 29 Apr 2019, 09:54 pm
No

Have you read through the “Crossover assembly 101” thread in the sticky section of the GR Research circle main page? There are some good tips there.

Be sure the board you are going to build the crossover on fits in the place you want to put it. I neglected to do that and ended up with the crossovers sticking out the back of the speakers.

Mike

Yeah, I read the “Crossover 101” thread, but I reread it per your recommendation.  I understand standing up the inductor on the right isn’t a good idea.

I remember seeing your crossovers hanging out the back. Still beautiful speakers, regardless.  I’ll make sure I do a trial fit prior to doing anything permanent.

To those that paint your speakers, and fill the seams with wood putty - do you have any tricks to sanding the hardened putty in the interior corners?  It’s extremely difficult to get a good sanding motion in there.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 29 Apr 2019, 10:44 pm
Yeah, I read the “Crossover 101” thread, but I reread it per your recommendation.  I understand standing up the inductor on the right isn’t a good idea.

I remember seeing your crossovers hanging out the back. Still beautiful speakers, regardless.  I’ll make sure I do a trial fit prior to doing anything permanent.

To those that paint your speakers, and fill the seams with wood putty - do you have any tricks to sanding the hardened putty in the interior corners?  It’s extremely difficult to get a good sanding motion in there.

If you havent already put wood putty in there you can use epoxy (something like West Systems epoxy, not the 5 minute epoxy you get at the home stores) or a couple coats of a sanding sealer like Sinzer Sealcoat. These are a lot easier to sand. The Sealcoat is easier to get and a lot less expensive than the epoxy.

If you already have the wood putty in, a triangular shaped oscillating profile sander will help with the sanding.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: ebag4 on 2 May 2019, 02:39 am
Hi Dan, I have experience with the Kaiju and the original Wedgies.  IMO they make an excellent pairing.  The Wedgie is one of my favorite speakers, in fact I am currently working on a new bass solution for the Wedgies since I used my 12” servos in a subsequent NX Otica build.

With regard to the wedge bass build using the 12” servos, I did not like the one I built, the H frame is far superior.  I believe Mike may have had success with his wedge bass unit. I now believe I built mine too small, I worked to keep the size as small as possible, and in the end it didn’t work out. In hindsight I believe it was so tight that when the drivers were pumping hard they were negatively impacting each other, the excursion appeared to get non linear.

The room the Wedgies live in is very small, 10.5’x12.5’x8’, well treated and dedicated so placement is not an issue.  The Wedgies have produced some amazing listening sessions.  In a larger room you could run out of gas, but with 12” servos handling the bass, if you high pass the Kaiju like I did, the 8 watts goes further than you might think.

Good luck with the build and let me know if there are any questions I can answer for you.

Best,
Ed

Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 7 May 2019, 01:46 am
The crossover schematic lists an optional bypass cap.  What’s a bypass cap, what benefit would it provide, and if you used one, what brand and values did you use?

Regarding my work thus far, I made the mistake of using wood putty on the seams before getting the epoxy recommended above, so I’m still sanding - trying to make them perfect.

Another question - does anyone have the schematic for the line level high pass filter Danny has mentioned in a couple of threads?  I’d like to filter out the low end from reaching the wedgies.

Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 7 May 2019, 03:32 am
To  improve  charge/discharge  rates of the main cap,  use    a  .022 or .047 uf bypass cap on that   high pass cap.  depending on the  gear in your  system, this may improve  clarity and definitiion separation.
There are a  ton of  diferent    "flavours you can go with, some of the more popular  would be the sonicap Platinum ( not sure you'll find them any longer),  the  Jupiter  Coppers,  the   new  milFlex Copper  etc.    If you  want to try  it onthe  cheaper side,   try   using  a  Soniccap  Gen II  or      a  vishay  Roderstein  ... ....  I've use d  the  vishay  roderstein  .1 uF's  in some more  budget orientated builds with  very good  results.  I have also heard  some good things  about     the  Dayton Audio  Silver  line of caps but have never  tried them
Personally, if you  tyr the   bypass caps and go  for one othe less expensive options, I'd get  4  and the  the caps  in  the woofer circuit as well

The  cap value  for the nline filter  will depend onthe input impedence of your  amp....  they'll all be unique .. let  danny  know  your   input impedence and he can  guide you  accordingly.
jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 22 May 2019, 12:19 am
I know I’m slow to update this thread, but I’m plugging along working on the Wedgies when I find time. I’m really enjoying the process, and trying to enjoy it rather than trying to rush through to get to the end. There’s something satisfying about making consistent progress, and seeing it come together.

I just completed the final primer coat, which is the last of five coats.  I did some light sanding with 400 grit between each coat.  Next up are the color coats.  I’m going with a gloss light putty grey (the white color in the pics is primer).  I know pics are a requirement, so I’ve attached them to the end of this post.

I still need to pick a design for my dual 12” OB servo subs.  I originally planned to make a wedge shaped base unit (haha - a base “bass” unit), but that was up until Ed’s negative feedback on the wedge design compared to his H-frames.  That leaves me with choosing between H frames and W frames.  I plan to place the Wedgies on top of the base units.  Are there any sound differences between H and W frames?  I’m concerned the H frames would place the tweeters higher than ear level, but the W frame design would place them at a more desirable height.  However, the Wedgie base is 16” long (front to back), and the W frame is only 13.5” deep (front to back). I’d prefer to not have them overhang - I’d prefer them to have a more a finished look.  If I extend the W frame to be an extra 3” deep, wouldn’t it deepen the “cell” is the OB, and shift the resonant frequency too low, and possibly into the passband of the subwoofers?  I need these to reach up to a 200hz crossover point, so I don’t want to compromise the response just to gain a little more cabinet depth.  Danny R, do you have any insight on this design change?

Does anyone have any experience with the Elekit TU-8600?  Still shopping for a tube amp kit for these Wedgies.

Enough with the questions, onto the pics.


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194704)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194705)



Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 22 May 2019, 12:34 am
Looking good.

Go with the H-frames. It’s the better design and it doesn’t put the tweeters too high. 

Mike
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Early B. on 22 May 2019, 02:27 am
Go with the H-frames. It’s the better design and it doesn’t put the tweeters too high. 

Yep. Final answer.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 22 May 2019, 10:46 am
Yep. Final answer.

Haha. Well, I guess that settles that!  I’ll build some H-frames. I’d like to deepen the entire H frame by a few inches to prevent the Wedgie base from overhanging the back.  I’d keep the subwoofer baffle centered, so the front and rear “cells” would each deepen by about 1.5”.  I understand this lowers the resonant frequency, but I don’t know by how much.  Can someone please help me understand if this change will impact the 200hz crossover point?  I’ll live with the overhang if this change will impact the response.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Early B. on 22 May 2019, 11:52 am
I’d like to deepen the entire H frame by a few inches to prevent the Wedgie base from overhanging the back. 

Keep it simple and build the stock H frames. Just make the top panel the same dimensions as the base plate. My H frame top panel and base plate are 17" wide and 16" deep which is the same depth as your wedgie base.   
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 22 May 2019, 12:06 pm
Keep it simple and build the stock H frames. Just make the top panel the same dimensions as the base plate. My H frame top panel and base plate are 17" wide and 16" deep which is the same depth as your wedgie base.   

That’s an option, but aesthetically speaking, I’d prefer the look of a deeper “cabinet,” but not at the cost of the sound.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: drmike on 22 May 2019, 01:13 pm
hello, are these flat packs and drivers still available?
thanks,
drmike
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 22 May 2019, 01:17 pm
hello, are these flat packs and drivers still available?
thanks,
drmike

Hey, drmike.  I don’t think these are available anymore because the LGK midrange drivers aren’t available.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 22 May 2019, 03:13 pm
I do have a flat pack  ( a  couple actually)  and  8 brand new  Lgk drivers .  We had planned to build out a pair but  things have gotten busy and  just  don't  other projects are  taking up   "play time".
Danny will have all the network parts you'd need.

Let me know if interested and I'll double ched,  I'd have to go back and see what the  actual cost was on Lgk drivers. they are all sitting in  the original boxes aside from one that   we test mounted in the   prototype  baffles. 

jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: drmike on 22 May 2019, 03:36 pm
are the tweeters available?
thanks,
drmike
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 22 May 2019, 03:47 pm
Yes,  they use  Danny's new  Neo3, lots in stock.
http://gr-research.com/grneo3.aspx

If you're interested, either PM me or  shoot me an email to captainhemo at  shaw.ca ,  we  probably  should quit hijacking  dan's build thread   !
jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 23 May 2019, 10:14 pm
A brief update - first few color coats are down. I really like this color selection.  I think the black drivers will look great against this grey.

A had a quick conversation with Danny R regarding my idea to deepen the standard H-frame by about 3” so the Wedgies wouldn’t overhang the back, and I figured I’d share in case others could benefit from it.  He said it would likely reduce the ability to reach the upper crossover point to the wedgies, and recommended I stick with the typical H-frame design.  So I’ll live with a little overhang in the rear. No big deal.

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194805)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194806)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194808)



Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 24 May 2019, 05:57 pm
Looking good  Dan,  I think you are right  with regards to the  black drivers on the grey  cabs.. will lok sharp :)
Just  build your h-frames with   overhanging tops/bases like  our  standard cnc  flat packs use, the  wedgies fit right on them  .

jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 24 May 2019, 06:21 pm
Looking good  Dan,  I think you are right  with regards to the  black drivers on the grey  cabs.. will lok sharp :)
Just  build your h-frames with   overhanging tops/bases like  our  standard cnc  flat packs use, the  wedgies fit right on them  .

jay

Jay - I didn’t realize that!  Would you mind sharing the measurement of the top, both length and width? Thanks!
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 24 May 2019, 06:45 pm
19x17"  gives  1.5"  overhang all the way around ... you  can adjust  to suit  your  personal requirements.
We  just  a couple pairs with a  custom sized top for a customer, he wanted a bit different  overhang....

note though,   that  measurement is with  1.5"  side panels  and a  1"  baffle  which we use in all our sub   kits.  If you  are only using  a .75" baffle make them 19 x 16.75
jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 25 May 2019, 01:00 am
19x17"  gives  1.5"  overhang all the way around ... you  can adjust  to suit  your  personal requirements.
We  just  a couple pairs with a  custom sized top for a customer, he wanted a bit different  overhang....

note though,   that  measurement is with  1.5"  side panels  and a  1"  baffle  which we use in all our sub   kits.  If you  are only using  a .75" baffle make them 19 x 16.75
jay

This is great news!  I’ll hit you up for a flat pack.  Thanks for the heads up.

Another brief update - I started making the crossover boards today.  LOTS of sanding.  As you can see from the pics, I’m using some leopardwood.  These boards will get lots of urethane after the glue dries.  The urethane should really make the grain pop.

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194837)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194838)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194839)

Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 25 May 2019, 05:10 pm
This is great news!  I’ll hit you up for a flat pack.  Thanks for the heads up.

Another brief update - I started making the crossover boards today.  LOTS of sanding.  As you can see from the pics, I’m using some leopardwood.  These boards will get lots of urethane after the glue dries.  The urethane should really make the grain pop.


Looking forward to seing that   wood with a  finish on it  :thumb:

The last  couple pairs of  Hframes we sent out, they guy  also had us do the tops/bases out of 1" Medex so that the  thickness matched the  exposed  side panel  face  (side panels are 1.5"  but   each has a  .5"  rabbet  / recess for  an optional grill frame.
There is some  lead time needed on these so  please keep that in mind  if you  want  some down the road
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=139480.0

jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 28 May 2019, 10:25 pm
I got one crossover board done.  If anyone sees any glaring issues, please let me know.  One question I had was regarding the negative line.  I ran one continuous run, and just made both connections (woofer and tweeter) at the same point.  So the tweeter’s .27 inductor is connected to the woofer’s 5ohm resister, and the tweeter’s positive and the woofer’s negative are all connected at on junction.  Is this okay?

In other news, I got the flat packs ordered for the subwoofer bases.  Thanks, Jay!!!!  And thank you for tolerating my customizations.  :thumb:


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194995)
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 28 May 2019, 11:32 pm
All of that looks good.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 29 May 2019, 03:26 pm
I got one crossover board done.  If anyone sees any glaring issues, please let me know.  One question I had was regarding the negative line.  I ran one continuous run, and just made both connections (woofer and tweeter) at the same point.  So the tweeter’s .27 inductor is connected to the woofer’s 5ohm resister, and the tweeter’s positive and the woofer’s negative are all connected at on junction.  Is this okay?

In other news, I got the flat packs ordered for the subwoofer bases.  Thanks, Jay!!!!  And thank you for tolerating my customizations.  :thumb:


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=194995)

No worries  ,  looks like  we  have   the sheets  in stock so  hopefully we can get these cut  and out  to you relatively  soon.

jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 30 May 2019, 01:12 am
Danny - Thank you for checking! 

Jay - Great news!!!  Thanks!

Well, the second crossover sure went together a lot faster.  One of the best tips I got from Danny’s “Crossovers 101” sticky thread is to twist up the first crossover and then slide the board under; but for the second board, mount the components first to mimic the first board, THEN make your connections.  Making the connections is slightly more difficult this way, but it ensures your boards will be identical copies of one another.  Good for the OCD...


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195030)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195031)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195032)
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 23 Jun 2019, 03:42 pm
It’s been awhile since I’ve updated this this build thread, but it’s not because of a lack of work!!!  This was my first attempt at doing a “good” rattle can paint job.  I properly primed, sanded between color coats, sanded between clear coats, and polished the final product.  Although it turned out pretty well, it was VERY time consuming because of repeated flaws with the rattle can clear.  Every attempt to lay down a good coat was met with wrinkled spots.  It was an endless cycle of attempts, then sanding down and retrying. At the end of the day, I’m pleased with how they turned out.  Now on to wiring them up and building the OB 12 subwoofer H frames.


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195870)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195871)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195872)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195873)

Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: mlundy57 on 23 Jun 2019, 04:56 pm
Those look really nice.

I find rattle cans hard to get smooth coats out of. They tend to get a buildup on the tip and have a tendency to sputter, especially as the propellant gets low. A satin sheen is easier to lay down. It's more forgiving than gloss.

Mike
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Tyson on 23 Jun 2019, 08:27 pm
Those look great!  And Jupiter copper bypass caps, man those are gonna sound nice.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 28 Jun 2019, 01:33 am
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I’m assembling some better gear for my new Wedgie system.  I picked up a Sonic Frontiers SFD2 MKIII DAC, which are pretty hard to come by these days. This is the 1704-k version, not the Ultra Analog versions.

I’m looking for wisdom on my amp selection.  I’d really like to run the Atma-Sphere OTL amps, but I wanted to ensure the impedance of the Wedgies is friendly with the Wedgies.  I know they have a nominal 8ohm impedance, but does anyone know if they dip lower than 8ohms anywhere?  I just want to ensure they’re compatible.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 28 Jun 2019, 02:00 am
Wedgie impedance:

(http://gr-research.com/measurements/MMTMM%20impedance.jpg)

Before you spend a lot of money on amps for these speakers, I'd highly recommend a little chip based amp like the Folsom model. With 94db sensitivity they just don't need a lot of power, and those amps sound about as good as any amps that I have heard.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 28 Jun 2019, 02:14 am
Wedgie impedance:

(http://gr-research.com/measurements/MMTMM%20impedance.jpg)

Before you spend a lot of money on amps for these speakers, I'd highly recommend a little chip based amp like the Folsom model. With 94db sensitivity they just don't need a lot of power, and those amps sound about as good as any amps that I have heard.

Thanks for the chart! Very helpful.  I’ve collected all the parts to build Folsom’s chip amp, and have recently received his boards for his new 7293 amp.  I figured I could try both SS and OTL tubes to see which I prefer.  However, I’m not sure the 4ohm load above 4khz will play nice with the Atma-Spheres 
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: jeffreybehr on 9 Jul 2019, 11:37 pm
Danny, could you pls post a double plot of acoustical output AND impedance?

What frequency do you recommend for a line-level hi-pass filter for these?
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Hirst on 10 Jul 2019, 12:00 am
Quote
Before you spend a lot of money on amps for these speakers, I'd highly recommend a little chip based amp like the Folsom model. With 94db sensitivity they just don't need a lot of power, and those amps sound about as good as any amps that I have heard.

I am running Jeremy's amp with my wedgies and servo amps.  It is a lovely sounding combination.  I also have the boards for his new amp and I am looking forward to putting it together as well. 

Paul
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 10 Jul 2019, 01:28 am
Danny, could you pls post a double plot of acoustical output AND impedance?

What frequency do you recommend for a line-level hi-pass filter for these?

The impedance plot is posted above.

The measured frequency responses are posted here: https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=155092.msg1679963#msg1679963

You can cross these to anything that will play up to 200Hz.

And they naturally roll off below 200Hz. So any filter that removes the first two octaves will be fine.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: jeffreybehr on 10 Jul 2019, 03:30 am
...

So any filter that removes the first two octaves will be fine.

OK; that sounds like a natural for the 0.022uF Miflex KPCU copperfoil/'propylene&paper/oil into a 100K load for 72Hz.

TYVM.
   :D
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny Richie on 10 Jul 2019, 04:55 pm
OK; that sounds like a natural for the 0.022uF Miflex KPCU copperfoil/'propylene&paper/oils into a 100K load for 72Hz.

TYVM.
   :D

Yes, that is correct and should work great.
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 16 Jul 2019, 12:54 am
Progress continues!  I started glueing up the subwoofer base flat pack.  A HUGE “thank you” goes out to Jay, who went above and beyond during this process.  If any first-time builders are reading this, and are considering taking the leap, take it from this newbie that you should jump in with both feet.  Jay’s flat pack is a no-brainer.  Top notch quality, and truly the most sincere, honest, and forthright service I’ve experienced.

I’ve included a picture of the first sub getting glued up.  I’ve also included some pictures of Jay’s insane ninja packing skills.


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196681)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196682)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196683)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196684)
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 16 Jul 2019, 01:15 am
LOL,  just  glad  you've got  what  you need  now man.
I'm not the insane Ninja packer, that  would   be   Mr  Don  :thumb:

jay   
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 23 Jul 2019, 02:36 pm
Wedgies are DONE!  I used two layers of Raamaudio Raammat mass damper sheets to help damp both wings. I have no idea if it will help, but it certainly made a big difference with the knuckle test and the weight.  Since I requested that Jay build my sub flat packs with 1” tops and bottoms (but 1.5” sides) for a uniform appearance after the grille recesses were cut, I acquired this Raammat to damp the interior panels of the subs due to the .5” reduction.  I figured a couple of layers on the Wedgie wings might help.  I then covered the Raammat with a layer of foam that I found on clearance.

Now on to finishing the subs!

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196891)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196894)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196895)


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196900)

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196901)


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196902)


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196897)

-Dan
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Tomy2Tone on 23 Jul 2019, 02:38 pm
Great job Dan! Are they a grayish white?
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 23 Jul 2019, 02:58 pm
Great job Dan! Are they a grayish white?

Thanks!  It’s a light putty gray.  Some might call it dove grey.  The OB12 sub bases will be the same color, and I found some really cool vintage Fender replacement grille material that matches, which I’ll use for the subs only.


(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196903)
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Captainhemo on 23 Jul 2019, 03:16 pm
Really  nice  Dan  :thumb:

jay
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: rockdrummer on 24 Jul 2019, 12:56 pm
Nice work! Looks terrific! I love the idea of the fender grill cloth. That will look really unique. I have a dark brown on my subs, I was thinking of doing some dark oxblood grills on mine. I ended up giving up on it, but sometimes regret it.

Good job.
Ben
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: jeffreybehr on 24 Jul 2019, 06:42 pm
Wedgies are DONE!  I used two layers of Raamaudio Raammat mass damper sheets to help damp both wings. I have no idea if it will help, but it certainly made a big difference with the knuckle test and the weight.  Since I requested that Jay build my sub flat packs with 1” tops and bottoms (but 1.5” sides) for a uniform appearance after the grille recesses were cut, I acquired this Raammat to damp the interior panels of the subs due to the .5” reduction.  I figured a couple of layers on the Wedgie wings might help.  I then covered the Raammat with a layer of foam that I found on clearance.

Now on to finishing the subs!

...

-Dan

WOW--those are VERY nice.  Your 'new' M-60s will make them sound glorious.   :)
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Wind Chaser on 25 Jul 2019, 02:03 am
Wedgies are DONE! 

(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196894)

Incredible!  :thumb:

Looking forward to seeing them with the subs when they’re done. :D :D
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: ebag4 on 26 Jul 2019, 12:03 am
Those look great Dan, excellent job.  As an owner of the previous generation of Wedgie, I know you are going to love them, they can disappear and image like no other speaker I have heard.  Thanks for sharing.

Best,
Ed
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: jeffreybehr on 11 Aug 2019, 04:24 am
Danny23--where are you?  Haven't heard from you since July 23.

Did you get your Atma-Sphere M60s running?
Title: Re: Dan’s Wedgie Build
Post by: Danny23 on 11 Aug 2019, 12:34 pm
Danny23--where are you?  Haven't heard from you since July 23.

Did you get your atma-Sphere M60s running?


Hey, Jeffrey!  Thanks for checking in.  My new rig isn’t up and running yet, but I’m still working hard at it.  My most recent detour has been room treatments. I still have to complete the subs, and some other various tidbits. I got a second dedicated line pulled, but I still need to pull the Ethernet cable.  A complete change of an entire system is a ton of work!  My guess is I’m still a month or two away from having the new room up and running.