[lazydays]

I hum all my favorite songs to myself, that's how responsible I am!

there's a little more to it than one hybrid electric car verses another. The Volt will easily charge in less than eight hours (over night) for a 50 mile round trip. The current used shows up at about two dollars a day, or two thirds of a gallon of gas. The next generation will probably show a ligit 75 miles per charge, even though several are claiming 100 miles on a charge. We'll just have to see. The battery packs are also climate limited; even though 80% of the end users have no idea about this. Twenty degree and colder weather will shorten the drive radius about 33%. Just the nature of the beast! I worked for the company that made hybrid drives work (others tried prior), and are probably building systems that are a minimum of six levels higher in development right now. The next issue that everyone refuses to address is the internal combustion engine used to get you thru the day. Gasoline engines are at best a compromise, and the best engine is a reconfigured diesel engine ( flat torque cure and a very low rpm). The next issue is the "switching computer". Closely guarded, and now near impossible to steal and copy. Toyota got caught, and ended up with one of the highest fines ever leveled against a company years back. Kinda funny as the technology they stole was flawed! The source is due out of jail in 24 months.
glt

[lazydays]

Yes, and figures have been proposed that we have the ability to feed maybe 2 billion people without using oil.  Thus if we ran out of oil today, 5 billion would starve.  The figures are arbitrary of course, but it gives an idea of the scale we would be dealing with without petroleum.  Running out of gas for our cars will be the least of the problems.

funny you posted that, as I spoke with a friend that is a farmer along with his Dad and Brother In Law. They farm almost 3000 acres. He used one of four tractors almost daily in the warmer months, and one is a big four wheel drive 12 cylinder job ($$$). I thought he was nuts. He tells me in the long run he comes out ahead using it in very large plots. Small plots he uses the other stuff.
gary

[RDavidson]

DO NOT WASTE ENERGY !

Good discussion.......however, Taulisa, I find it funny you have a thread about not wasting energy, when you also have a thread about your Symphonic Line Pure Class A mono-blocks, here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=132926.msg1433419#new

[macrojack]

Good discussion.......however, Taulisa, I find it funny you have a thread about not wasting energy, when you also have a thread about your Symphonic Line Pure Class A mono-blocks, here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=132926.msg1433419#new

This seems like a valid observation. How in hell do you reconcile the obvious contradiction in these two threads?

As Davidson pointed out though, the discussion has been very good. So I have to thank TAULISA for starting it and hope that he can come to grips with his conundrum or hypocrisy or whatever is driving him.

I have a patio door in the east wall of my dining room that represents a pretty big energy drain in the winter. Because the patio is covered, the eastern sun has very little impact in summer but I can feel the cold passing right through the glass in winter. Any suggestions about how to deal with this problem economically? BTW, this is a wood framed assembly with only one side  opening on hinges.

[Phil A]

Any suggestions about how to deal with this problem economically? BTW, this is a wood framed assembly with only one side  opening on hinges.

Not sure what one defines as economically.  In an old house, I wanted more space and a better view of the woods in back and built a 3x7 bump out with Atrium doors and glass side panels (all low E).  Other options would be a better door, insulating drapes (e.g. - http://www.amazon.com/Best-Home-Fashion-Insulated-Blackout/dp/B004AKHOXW/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1433097954&sr=1-3&keywords=thermal+window+curtains) , etc.

[aldcoll]

In a former home I made a foam filled plug/cover for the offending door in the winter. 

 In warm weather the ventilation was of higher value so the door stayed.  French doors I believe are a better thermal value then the slider. 

 My $.02

[DaveC113]

Long ago I rented a place with crappy windows and insulated drapes, they do work well. Probably not as well as better windows/doors but much more economical. You could do drapes now and windows down the line as well...

[ACHiPo]

This seems like a valid observation. How in hell do you reconcile the obvious contradiction in these two threads?

As Davidson pointed out though, the discussion has been very good. So I have to thank TAULISA for starting it and hope that he can come to grips with his conundrum or hypocrisy or whatever is driving him.

I have a patio door in the east wall of my dining room that represents a pretty big energy drain in the winter. Because the patio is covered, the eastern sun has very little impact in summer but I can feel the cold passing right through the glass in winter. Any suggestions about how to deal with this problem economically? BTW, this is a wood framed assembly with only one side  opening on hinges.

When I was just out of college and living in an apartment with crappy aluminum frame windows I went to Home Depot and picked up weather proofing shrink wrap.  It's double-sticky tape that you put around the molding, then stretch the plastic across the window and attach to the tape, then take a hair dryer to it to pull it taut.  Not very attractive, but made a huge difference in the comfort of the room and electric bill (had electric baseboard heaters).

Something to consider if you're not ready to replace the doors with more energy efficient models.

AC

[macrojack]

My preferred remedy is to enclose the patio and create an airlock area. Because of energy regulations, I can't possibly insulate the roof of this place with enough value to allow heating. Between a rock and a hard place, as they say out here in the wild, wild west.
The county building guy told me outright that I can build whatever I want as long as it is unheated   ---   and we don't care if you bring in an electric heater after inspection. I wanted to run a third zone off my boiler to create radiant floor heat but they won't permit that without R38 in the ceiling. There is a disconnected 220 line out there already so I suppose I could do an end run, but the cost of electric heat sure spits in the face of all my other efforts. Then again, all I want to do is keep plants alive year round. Here in Colorado we take certain crops very seriously.

[Phil A]

My preferred remedy is to enclose the patio and create an airlock area. Because of energy regulations, I can't possibly insulate the roof of this place with enough value to allow heating. Between a rock and a hard place, as they say out here in the wild, wild west.
The county building guy told me outright that I can build whatever I want as long as it is unheated   ---   and we don't care if you bring in an electric heater after inspection. I wanted to run a third zone off my boiler to create radiant floor heat but they won't permit that without R38 in the ceiling. There is a disconnected 220 line out there already so I suppose I could do an end run, but the cost of electric heat sure spits in the face of all my other efforts. Then again, all I want to do is keep plants alive year round. Here in Colorado we take certain crops very seriously.

Will they let you run electrical outlets?  If so then a plug in baseboard heater is not a big deal (or a window/wall room A/C unit).  Building permits are weird in a lot of places.  I wanted to smack the plumbing inspector when I finished the basement in my old VA house.  I had an area in the basement bedroom that was behind the shower in the bathroom.  Rather than leave it as almost unusable (about 3 feet wide) space in the unfinished area, I recessed a 2-level built in desk (one for the monitor and one for the keyboard and mouse).  Rather than run wires around the bend (and trip over them), I put PVC in the wall for the printer cable, A/V cable to the receiver and speaker cables from the receiver to the indoor/outdoor speakers on brackets in the corners. He threatened to flunk me for plumbing 3 times for that (I had to legitimately fix a couple of issues) and I was ready to blow my stack as he wasn't really pleasant about it (and they let builders get away with anything).  Glad you're into agriculture

[macrojack]

Will they let you run electrical outlets?  If so then a plug in baseboard heater is not a big deal (or a window/wall room A/C unit).  Building permits are weird in a lot of places.  I wanted to smack the plumbing inspector when I finished the basement in my old VA house.  I had an area in the basement bedroom that was behind the shower in the bathroom.  Rather than leave it as almost unusable (about 3 feet wide) space in the unfinished area, I recessed a 2-level built in desk (one for the monitor and one for the keyboard and mouse).  Rather than run wires around the bend (and trip over them), I put PVC in the wall for the printer cable, A/V cable to the receiver and speaker cables from the receiver to the indoor/outdoor speakers on brackets in the corners. He threatened to flunk me for plumbing 3 times for that (I had to legitimately fix a couple of issues) and I was ready to blow my stack as he wasn't really pleasant about it (and they let builders get away with anything).  Glad you're into agriculture

I'm into this kind of agriculture just because I can be. Haven't yet decided the ultimate fate of the crop. It's been a long time since the stuff played any role in my life.
As for the room, it's a 12 x 12 slab with a post and beam support of a shed roof with 2/12 pitch. I'm thinking of putting in a platform with insulation and decking. Then walls, windows and a door. Crude will be OK. It's not going to be 4 season living space with what we have to spend. Although there is room in my life for crowd funding. If anyone wants to have their name painted prominently inside this structure, contact me for a rate sheet.
Basically, my goals here are greenhouse and air lock support for the patio door. Please let me know if you have a better idea. I'm no builder.

[mresseguie]

Macro jack,

I've been an avid tomato gardener (okay, perhaps I get a wee bit carried away at times) for more than a decade. This has resulted in the need to extend my growing season.

There is a double tent method for growing things outside when it's simply too cold for the plants to survive. Use 6 mil plastic. It comes in folded rolls that open out to 20 feet wide (available in different widths) by however long you purchased it. Create a frame using light weight fencing (deer fence, chicken wire, etc.). Drape the plastic sheet over this frame. Construct a similar but smaller frame inside the first frame and drape the plastic over it.

The result is a tent within a tent. Each tent is separated by a dead air space of a few inches - 6" works well. So long as you maintain this dead air space, you'll enjoy an easily heated growing space. As cold as it gets in Colorado, you may wish to first enclose the patio space in a wind block of some sort. I'd have to see photos of the intended space to be sure.

Nutrient requirements for tomato plants are remarkably close to the nutrient requirements of a certain other cash crop that is now legal in both Colorado and Oregon.

I can create an easy to make list of nutrients used to feed tomato plants, how to prepare soil, beds, watering systems, etc, etc. I've been called a tomato head for good reason.

Michael

[ctviggen]

One of the best things to do is seal penetrations into your attic and put as much blown in insulation there as possible.  If you have a basement, use rigid insulation on the wall and air seal everything.  If you ever take a room back to the studs, consider upgrading the insulation.   These options aren't as sexy as others, but they work well. 

[WGH]

One of the best things to do is seal penetrations into your attic and put as much blown in insulation there as possible.

That is what I did, more blown insulation.

Here in Tucson we need to keep the house from heating up so I have been working on insulating my place like a thermos bottle, new doors are next but since I have to make them (that is my business after all) they will also be last.

So far I have:

Replace the roof with heavier grade architectural shingles but passed on the radiant barrier underlayment, the cost/gain ratio was not worth it for my small house (750 sq. ft.). The small house was also planned to lower my overall energy usage by not heating and cooling space I never use.

A new 14 SEER Tempstar gas pack sits on top of the roof.

Single glazed steel casement windows were replaced with Marvin Integrity with Low E3-366 glass, the West facing windows have practically zero heat gain, amazing stuff.

The house was outsulated with 1" high density foam and stuccoed with a marble dust plaster with integrated color so I never need to paint, the 1" foam keeps direct sun from heating up the concrete block so there is less indoor radiant heat.

The attic has R30 blown insulation on top of the existing R19 for a total of R49.

During the summer I turn the thermostat up to 84 degrees (from 78) when I leave in the morning, when I return at noon the inside temp is still below 84 and the A/C never went on.
I paid between $32-$41/month for electricity between Oct. and May (8 months)
June, July, August, and Sept. electric costs were between $82 and $92/month.

I have ceiling fans in every room and the house it very comfortable year round.

Wayne

 

[JLM]

You can overdo insulation as loose (batt or blown) compresses under it's own weight to the point that trapped air (the essence of most forms of insulation) is squeezed out.  About 15 inches is the limit (roughly R50). 

Wayne, your concept of a thermos bottle is so true.  Consider what effect 1/16 inch styrofoam cup has with 180F coffee on one side and your hand on the other.  Eliminating all the gaps (infiltration and short circuits in the insulation) is the key.  I used Structural Insulated Panels (SIP) in part of my house.  They are nothing more than OSB (flake board) glued to both sides of styrofoam.  These can be used for foundation walls, above grade walls, and ceiling/roof panels, even floors.  They are amazingly strong (mine span a 16 foot roof in the great white north).  When fully developed your house becomes a plywood refrigerator, with no gaps created by framing.  Cost is high, but erection time is minimal.  Electricians don't like them (the panels have tubes melted into the foam at 18 inches and 48 inches above the floor and vertically every 4 feet so running wires is similar to using conduit without radiused corners).  The styrofoam comes in various thicknesses, up to 12 inches (R60).

So sealing against air infiltration, eliminating thermal breaks (short circuits), doors, and especially windows become critical as you go super-insulated.  These homes also need air-to-air heat exchangers to efficiently allow a controlled amount of outside air in.